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jimFPU
08-11-2008, 01:52 PM
Is there an easier way of getting them for the SF? Where can I find factory made trike wheels with disk brake hardware already installed? I've done some Google searches with no luck. maybe I'm not searching for the right words...

gbbwolf
08-11-2008, 02:03 PM
Finding 20 inch wheels with disc brakes.
I would say buy some hubs with disc brake adapters on them and a rim and spokes and build your own.

Of course finding hubs with 14 mm axles and disc brakes might also be a challenge.

Nelson

jimFPU
08-11-2008, 02:46 PM
Well they have to be out there somewhere, they are on a lot of trikes...

TheKid
08-11-2008, 04:22 PM
You could use the 20mm thru axle hubs as Brad suggests. Check all the online bike stores a lot of them carry those hubs at various prices.
Or you could buy disc hubs, remove the cups, and install 14mm axles. They sell kits that include the cups, cones, bearings and the axle.

jimFPU
08-11-2008, 04:53 PM
Links? Can you give links?

TheKid
08-11-2008, 08:51 PM
http://www.ebikestop.com/dmr_revolver_front_20mm_disc_hub_36h_blk-HU3099.php

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/HU308B02-Shimano+Deore+M525+Hub.aspx

http://www.bikepartsusa.com/bikeparts/item/01-142312/hub-hub_axles/ACS--14mm-AXLE-CONVERSION-KIT&category=hub-hub_axles

http://www.bikepartsusa.com/bikeparts/item/01-115251/hub-front_hubs/Quando-FRONT-HUB-ALLOY-DH-THRU-AXLE-20mm-36H&category=hub-front_hubs

darnthedog
08-12-2008, 11:04 AM
If your going to build your own how about a 20mm axle instead?
http://www.dropnzone.com/Products.cfm?Cat=14
http://www.dropnzone.com/images/Clear.gif
http://www.dropnzone.com/images/product/Quando20mmsm2.jpg Quando Front 20mm Hub
Price: $35

trikeman
08-12-2008, 11:30 AM
Is there an easier way of getting them for the SF? Where can I find factory made trike wheels with disk brake hardware already installed? I've done some Google searches with no luck. maybe I'm not searching for the right words...

I would probably search for dealers that sell parts for something like the Greeenspeed or other commercial tadpole. That will be very pricey. Or, you could buy the hubs spokes and rims of your choice and have them assembled at your LBS.

TheKid
08-12-2008, 05:01 PM
No matter what, they'll still cost a bundle. Sometimes Wallyworld sells cheap bikes with front discs, for the same price as one wheel. At least you'd be getting a lot of donor parts.
BTW, I only posted one 20mm hub to give you an idea, but I saw a few for a couple of bucks less later on. That $35 hub is a good find. Thanks for the link. I'm going with drum brakes on the Streetfox since I already have them, and the spokes and rims as well. I have enough spokes to do 4 wheels, and I know where I can get my hands on 2 Alex rims for 5 bucks each. So I broke down and ordered 2 more drum hubs for the either the quad I'll eventually build, or another smaller tadpole.

jeromio
09-11-2008, 10:58 PM
If one were to acquire "normal" skewer style disc-brake hubs, would it be possible to convert the hub to use a solid axle? IOWs, if you remove the hollow axle, is it conceivable to replace it with a suitable solid axle?

gbbwolf
09-11-2008, 11:23 PM
If one were to acquire "normal" skewer style disc-brake hubs, would it be possible to convert the hub to use a solid axle? IOWs, if you remove the hollow axle, is it conceivable to replace it with a suitable solid axle?

Wondering that myself i have 2 forged aluminum hubs that I am thinking of trying to convert to 14 mm axles.

I am going to the bike shop tommorow anyways for cables, I think I will take my hubs with me and see what the shop owner thinks.

See if they have a conversion kit to 14MM axles that will work with my disc brake hubs.

Nelson

TheKid
09-11-2008, 11:27 PM
Sure, Just remove the axle, and drill the cups out to 9/16". The cups are super hard. I went through 2 step drills doing mine (There are 4 cups.) I used the step drills that come as a set from Harbor Freight for 8 or 9 bucks. Then I bought these axles:

http://www.bikepartsusa.com/bikeparts/item/01-114916/hub-hub_axles/Bulletproof-BulleProof%2C-14mm%2C-Front%2C-Hub%2C-Axle-Set%2C-Complete-Loose-Ball-Type&category=hub-hub_axles

If you have hubs with a narrow tube between the flanges, then you could use these axles, which come with the cups. Just remove the axles and cups from your hub, and install these:

http://www.bikepartsusa.com/bikeparts/item/01-142312/hub-hub_axles/ACS--14mm-AXLE-CONVERSION-KIT&category=hub-hub_axles

jeromio
09-12-2008, 09:28 AM
Sure, Just remove the axle, and drill the cups out to 9/16". The cups are super hard. I went through 2 step drills doing mine (There are 4 cups.) I used the step drills that come as a set from Harbor Freight for 8 or 9 bucks. Then I bought these axles:

http://www.bikepartsusa.com/bikeparts/item/01-114916/hub-hub_axles/Bulletproof-BulleProof%2C-14mm%2C-Front%2C-Hub%2C-Axle-Set%2C-Complete-Loose-Ball-Type&category=hub-hub_axles

If you have hubs with a narrow tube between the flanges, then you could use these axles, which come with the cups. Just remove the axles and cups from your hub, and install these:

http://www.bikepartsusa.com/bikeparts/item/01-142312/hub-hub_axles/ACS--14mm-AXLE-CONVERSION-KIT&category=hub-hub_axles
That bikeparts site doesn't give much info on the parts. What qualifies as "narrow" (BMX)? For instance, 100mm?

TheKid
09-12-2008, 01:39 PM
I'm talking about the tube between the flanges. If it's a wide tube, usually about 1 3/8" in diameter on the ends, and both ends taper to 1-1 1/8" in the center, the cups from the conversion kit will fall through. In that case, you'll either have to find new cups, or drill out the ones in the hub. If it's a narrow tube between the hubs, it's usually about 5/8" in diameter. In that case, you can remove the cups and use the conversion kit. But you'll probably have to run a 9/16" drill bit through tne tube to ream it out, which I find to be easy to do.

jeromio
09-28-2008, 12:45 PM
I'm talking about the tube between the flanges. If it's a wide tube, usually about 1 3/8" in diameter on the ends, and both ends taper to 1-1 1/8" in the center, the cups from the conversion kit will fall through. In that case, you'll either have to find new cups, or drill out the ones in the hub. If it's a narrow tube between the hubs, it's usually about 5/8" in diameter. In that case, you can remove the cups and use the conversion kit. But you'll probably have to run a 9/16" drill bit through tne tube to ream it out, which I find to be easy to do.Sorry - I'm still not quite getting you. When you say "tube", you are referring to the inner, hollow part of the hub, yes? And your dimensions are diameters? So my hubs have a "bearing seat" (the area where the inner cup fits) which is 28mm in diameter. The narrower diameter (the part that the cups seat against, the center part of the hub shell) is 25mm (about an inch) in diameter.

It seems as though the bearing cups on the conversion kit would have to match exactly - in my case the cups are 28mm. My cups have an inner diameter of 15mm though - should allow for the 14mm axle to pass thru. So perhaps I could use cups I have and the cones from the kit? Looks like the 1st link, the one sans bearings, has the cones.

TheKid
09-28-2008, 01:35 PM
If the 14mm axle can pass through the cups, those in the first link will work. You could probably use the bearings from the original hub. They worked with mine.

jeromio
10-08-2008, 06:37 PM
If the 14mm axle can pass through the cups, those in the first link will work. You could probably use the bearings from the original hub. They worked with mine.Nope. The cones that go with the axles are too large for the bearing cups that go with the hubs.

So, now I am on a fool's quest for bearings with an ID of 14mm and an OD of 28mm. I've hunted all over, found dozens of sites that sell bearings and have had no luck. For some reason, the 14mm ID is pretty much unobtainable. I can find 28mm OD and I'm thinking that it wouldn't be too crazy to make a spacer.

TheKid
10-08-2008, 10:28 PM
If the cups are installed from the ouside of the hub, there shouldn't be a problem. If the hubs are the type found on newer bikes, the cups are installed from the inside, and the flanges are then pressed onto the tube. The dust covers on the 14mm cones are too wide for these, and the conversion probably won't work. I'll post a pic to show what I'm talking about.

TheKid
10-08-2008, 11:23 PM
The only hubs I have at the moment are the kind that have the cups installed before the hub is assmbled. With these, the cup doesn't have to be drilled out, but the bearings have to be smaller than the 1/4" balls that are in ther now. In addition, the dust cover has to be removed from the 14mm cone and replaced with a smaller one. You could probably use a rubber washer sanded down to fit inside the hub. I don't know if I still have pics of the 68 spoke wheels I converted, I'll have to find them.

John Lewis
10-08-2008, 11:25 PM
Click on Brakes in the index . About halfway down. Disk Brakes. Tells about modifying MTB hubs. Lots of other good stuff on the site.

Hope this is of help.

John Lewis

http://www.fleettrikes.com/tthindex.htm

jeromio
10-09-2008, 03:42 PM
If the cups are installed from the ouside of the hub, there shouldn't be a problem. If the hubs are the type found on newer bikes, the cups are installed from the inside, and the flanges are then pressed onto the tube. The dust covers on the 14mm cones are too wide for these, and the conversion probably won't work. I'll post a pic to show what I'm talking about.Having a hard time visualizing what you mean. Maybe it's a terminology issue (cups, cones, etc.). I've attached a pic of my hubs, old axle (small!) and new axle (monster!)
http://forum.atomiczombie.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=302&stc=1&d=1223577494
Note that the left most "ring" on the fat axle is the old bearing, trying to seat to the axle cone (too fat), followed by the various nuts on the axle.

Very blurry photo of: old cone (pressed inside old dust shield), new cone, bearings (in cup)
http://forum.atomiczombie.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=303&stc=1&d=1223577622

TheKid
10-09-2008, 04:43 PM
The concave part of the cone holds the bearings. It appears that the balls are too large for the 14mm cone. On the wheels I used, the balls worked with the larger cones.
I have another hub that needs smaller balls. The first pic shows the original balls for the 10mm axle in the cup. They are too large to get the 14mm axle to fit.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z66/edpol_photos/14mm%20conversion/000_0522Small.jpg

I replaced the balls with smaller ones from a headset:

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z66/edpol_photos/14mm%20conversion/000_0523.jpg

Then I installed the 14mm axle and cone. A perfect fit.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z66/edpol_photos/14mm%20conversion/000_0524.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z66/edpol_photos/14mm%20conversion/000_0525.jpg

BTW, this works well if you want to use wheels you already have and don't plan on using disc brakes. It saves you from spending more money on hubs, as well as respoking. 36 spoke wheels will work fine, but all the better if you find donors with 48 spoke wheels. You just have to make sure the 14mm axle will fit inside the hub, the hubs have a 44mm or larger spoke circle diameter, and the cups are at least 28mm wide. Some cups require drilling out to 9/16".

whaletosh
10-22-2008, 02:49 PM
I too would like to have disc brakes when I start building my Street Fox. I believe that I have solution. In the BMX world there is a hub called a "flip-flop" .These are threaded for freewheel hubs on both sides. The right side has a standard freewheel thread. The left side has a left hand thread. The reason for this is that some BMX riders like to move the chain, cranks, and cogs to the left side so that their right side tricks are easier. There is an adapter that mounts on the right side to allow the use of a 6 bolt rotor. The wheel needs to be turned around so that the disk is on the left or the rotor will come off. check this out on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Atom-Lab-Disc-Brake-Adapter/dp/B001DCYS9I/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1224697339&sr=8-5

Unfortunately, I haven't found and adapter for the left handed thread. But then I though why not just get a left hand cog and take it apart to make my own adapter. So that is what I will be doing. The only thing I need to make sure of is to get the correct cogs. The left thread on the hub varies. sometimes it is threaded the same as the right, just left handed. Other times they are threaded for metric left handed cogs. The best thing I can think of is to order two rear wheels and get the cogs at the same time. I'll re-post when i get them.

TheKid
10-22-2008, 03:32 PM
In earlier threads, and in the old forum, I suggested these:

http://www.bicycledesigner.com/defaulthome.asp?Main=/partsmain.asp%3FType%3Dkits

I used very strong epoxy, which held up for a while, but finally gave out. There are other steel adapters available that can be welded onto steel hubs, but you'll need hubs with a wide flange. You can make your own hubs, which is another method I posted a while back.
I thought about the flip-flop hubs, but ran into the same problem, no left threaded adapters. I tried machine shops, but the cost was prohibitive.

AtomicZombie
10-22-2008, 04:29 PM
But there will be a few problems....

You need a right hand thread on the left side of the hub or else the adapter will unscrew as you apply the brake.

There are some BMX hubs available with threads on both side - I have one from Haro. Most of these will be 14mm axles as well.

The other problem will be the axle. A BMX axle is not long enough to pass through a multi speed freehub, since it is designed for a single ring freehub.

If you can't find a rear wheel with disc brake in your budget, you could always cut two steel hubs in half, then reweld the two threaded halves back together. Keep in mind hole offset, and you can build the wheel back up.

That does seem like a ton of work though.

Brad




I too would like to have disc brakes when I start building my Street Fox. I believe that I have solution. In the BMX world there is a hub called a "flip-flop" .These are threaded for freewheel hubs on both sides. The right side has a standard freewheel thread. The left side has a left hand thread. The reason for this is that some BMX riders like to move the chain, cranks, and cogs to the left side so that their right side tricks are easier. There is an adapter that mounts on the right side to allow the use of a 6 bolt rotor. The wheel needs to be turned around so that the disk is on the left or the rotor will come off. check this out on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Atom-Lab-Disc-Brake-Adapter/dp/B001DCYS9I/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1224697339&sr=8-5

Unfortunately, I haven't found and adapter for the left handed thread. But then I though why not just get a left hand cog and take it apart to make my own adapter. So that is what I will be doing. The only thing I need to make sure of is to get the correct cogs. The left thread on the hub varies. sometimes it is threaded the same as the right, just left handed. Other times they are threaded for metric left handed cogs. The best thing I can think of is to order two rear wheels and get the cogs at the same time. I'll re-post when i get them.

TheKid
10-22-2008, 05:16 PM
The other problem will be the axle. A BMX axle is not long enough to pass through a multi speed freehub, since it is designed for a single ring freehub.


It's being used as a front wheel, so the freehub isn't a factor. The left wheel needs a left threaded adapter, unless you can find a steel rear hub with a wide flange, and get a steel thread-on disc adapter and weld it on, or if you're confident enough to weld aluminum, go that route. Then again, you can make your own hubs and use flange bearings, similar to how RR used flange bearings on the front wheels of his "Quad Mod".

http://s192.photobucket.com/albums/z66/edpol_photos/Build%20Wheels/

whaletosh
10-22-2008, 05:47 PM
Brad,

You are absolutely right. I am sometimes too cryptic. If I buy two identical flip-flop 20 inch rear wheels with 14 mm axles they will both have left and right handed threads on the hubs. The right hand will be a standard freewheel thread. The left will be a left hand threaded standard or metric threaded. If I also get single speed cogs that mate with the hubs I will have the beginning of the adapters.

The adapter in the amazon listing would work for the right hand threaded side. The wheel just needs to be turned around so that the disc rotor ends up on the left side of the wheel. The wheel would go on the right side of the trike. The rotor will be next to the steering arm. So a caliper can be mounted on the steering arm. When the trike is going forward the wheel will be spinning counter-clockwise when viewed from the left. When the brakes are applied the torque on the disc and adapter would be clockwise; which would tighten the adapter on the hub. On those rare occasions when the trike is rolling backwards some red loc-tite would be enough to keep the adapter in place. I don't see this as being necessary, but it could be done.

But the adapter won't thread onto the left hand threaded side. However, if I gut the left hand threaded cog set the inside part will thread onto the left hand side of the hub. If I machine a small plate to attach to the this part that will allow me to attach a 6 bolt rotor then the wheel will accept a disc rotor. Just like the right hand threaded setup the wheel will need to be turned around. In this case the rotor needs to be on the right. Again this will put the rotor on the inside next to the steering arm. When the trike is going forward the wheel be spinning clockwise when viewed from the right. When the brakes are applied the torque on the adapter will be counter-clockwise, which will tighten the adapter on the hub.

As I write this I realized that instead of gutting the cog sets I could just weld the outer part with the teeth to the inner part. The teeth could be removed with a grinder, file, or lathe. Then the outer part could be drilled and tapped to accept the disc rotor. I will do this for both wheels rather than using the adapter on one and the cog on another.

I need to buy the wheels and getting them with flip flop hubs isn't much more expensive and neither are the cog sets. So, I won't be out very much for the experiment.

TheKid
10-22-2008, 06:19 PM
You have to be careful when ordering flip flop hubs. Some have right hand threads on both sides, for different size freewheels. When you want a different size cog on the rear, you simply remove the wheel and "flip flop" it so the desired size cog is on the left.
I found out the hard way to ask before ordering if the threads are left and right hand. I ordered wheels with flip flop hubs for my Fox, with the intention of welding a left threaded fixed cog lockring to a disc adapter. What I received were hubs with standard freewheel threads on one side, and smaller right hand threads on the other. After receiving them and calling to see what was up, I was told the smaller threads are for 15tooth and smaller freewheels, the larger threads are for 16 tooth and larger freewheels, a setup prefered by many BMX enthusiasts. I was told that I needed a fixed gear hub that has standard threads on one side, and stepped down threads on the other. On the stepped down side, the larger threads are standard 1.375x24 right hand threads, the smaller ones are 1.29x24, or 1.32 x24 left hand threads for a lockring to hold the cog in place.

In the link below, scroll down to find disc adapters for $10. Despite what it says, all accept standard 5mm bolts. The aluminum one, and one of the steel ones don't accept standard bicycle discs, but one of the steel ones does, I believe the part # is BRK-143. You should call and ask. Also, notice the adapter from bicycledsigners.com is cheaper than the one from Amazon, and includes a disc and bolts.

AtomicZombie
10-22-2008, 07:45 PM
Must have had brain freeze - I thought you were talking about making your own disc brake hub for the rear wheel!

Brad

whaletosh
10-23-2008, 11:16 AM
I am aware of that flip flop hubs come in several configurations. That is why I will be ordering the wheels and the cogs from the same distributor at the same time. The size of the cogs aren't important as long as the left hand threaded cog ends up on the inside of the left side of the trike; and the right hand threaded cog ends up on the inside of the right side of the trike.

I with try to get steel cogs but if they are aluminum I can deal with that. I have a small lathe at home and a bigger lathe and mill at work. So, machining parts is pretty easy for me. If this works out I'll try to give some pictures and instructions on doing this by hand.

I am going out on a limb, but it would not surprise me that some of the commercial trike makers used similar methods in their prototypes.

trikeman
10-23-2008, 11:41 AM
I have always thought these wheels looked great on a Greenspeed and they are pretty cost-effective here

http://www.gottrikes.com/parts.htm

AtomicZombie
10-23-2008, 11:59 AM
Maybe this might be of interest?....

http://www.lucidscience.com/temp/fronthub.jpg

Although I wasn't planning on making these until next spring, it sounds as though these homebrew front hubs are perfect for your application.

Using the same simple system as the homebrew rear hubs, these front hubs only need two machined flanges and a pair of bearings. I plan on making them for a tandem motorized quad I have planned for next year. Having two riders, full suspension, a cargo box, and a motor will make it requre 4 wheel braking.

Increase the width by 1/2 inch, and you can even run 26 inch wheels on a tadpole - now that would be cool.

I also plan on making a set for delta trikes as well. The only difference will be the removal of the bearing well so they can be welded directly to a rear axle. This gives the advantage of not needing the disc brake flange for a rear axle and puts the brake closer to the wheel.

I was considering having enough made to sell at a reasonable price if demand was there.


Brad

whaletosh
11-10-2008, 05:29 PM
the pair I picked out only cost $5 more than front wheels, so I am not out anything. I was able to convince the distributor to include a couple of steel freewheel cogs. this was a gamble because I wasn't sure if one of the threads was left handed. It wan't, so I am back to square one.

I have discovered that there are heavy duty hubs that are desingned to accept disc brakes. These things have 20 mm axles! they all seem to be around $50 per hub. What I can't find is a wheel that is built on one of these hubs. I am gong to investigate the possibilty of having my wheels rebuilt using these hubs.

TheKid
11-10-2008, 11:20 PM
Try Bitex hubs. They're discussed in another thread. The cost is $50 a pair for the 20mm thru-axle hubs, and $40 for 12mm axle hubs. Both prices includes $23 for shipping from Taiwan. You send payment to an address right here in the U.S., and they arrange drop shipment to you. Here's the link. Click the Contact link for the address.

http://www.bitexhubs.com/

jimFPU
11-11-2008, 12:57 PM
Brad, I'd take 2 (maybe 4) for the business end of two Street Fighters, if the price is right. 3/4" axles.

Perhaps just a down-loadable add-on plan? Maybe we could make something with out the machined parts...

Of course now I have an idea...I've Zombied...I really dream about how to overcome some of my building problems!!

dshowalt
03-19-2009, 11:43 PM
So, How did the disk brakes go? I'm very interrested in how you mounted the calipers for the wheels. since they are not in left and right sets how did you mount each side?

TheKid
03-20-2009, 01:59 AM
I have always thought these wheels looked great on a Greenspeed and they are pretty cost-effective here

http://www.gottrikes.com/parts.htm


These are the hubs on my tadpole. They work better than the disc brakes I had earlier. I haven't had any problems with the 12mm axles either.

alecw35
04-24-2009, 07:38 AM
I used to work at Halfords. A big chain of bike and car parts stores in Britain
They sell the X Rated Snare BMX. Its got a disc front brake with 14mm axles.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_catalogId_10151_storeId_10001_partNumber_5 60672_langId_-1
You can roll over the pic to get a larger veiw.
They also sold a 20" wheeled mountain bike that had disc front brake. It had steel large flange hubs with a spacer adaptor plate screwed onto the side of it, with 6 bolts. There was one came in that the customer had snapped the alloy frame. I was wanting to take the front end home. But my boss say no. :(
I geuss other stores sell similar bikes to them. Maybe even the same bike with a different brand sticker on it.

I got a lot of wheel chair wheels. One has a drum hub, that looks like a sturmey archer drum brake would fit in it. Will have to try one I have. Others have large flange. So might try to fit a disc to them.
Was originaly going to make a single sided swing arm. With a hole for a sidepull caliper on beside the pivot tube.
Ive seen Schwinn stingrays adapted to discs by drilling the Hub flange.

BMXs that have 14mm axles quite often have the 30mm thread freewheel. Standard freewheel size is 34mm. So they only fit the small BMX freewheels. Dont think an disc adaptor would fit it.
All the 14mm axled wheels Ive had to bits had tiny bearings. And the hubs were quite worn. Well they are used roughly in skate parks and where ever. Bigger bearings support the load better.

gbbwolf
04-25-2009, 05:01 AM
Ok brad seeing how I planned a tadpole for me and was trying to figure out a way to get 26" wheels in front and also disc brakes i will take 2 initially and more if I decide to build more.

Also was planning on next year for about when I wanted to start, well actually this fall, but can hold off a bit.

I will buy the plans,when you get em done.

Also can you design it with a big boy brace or gusset LOL.

I really like the idea of 26 inch wheels all around.

And I am kinda jealous of wifes tadpole I think it looks way cool.

Nelson

alecw35
04-28-2009, 07:18 AM
I was looking at a rear BMX wheel Ive got.
Its an Alex rim, is that named after me?
its on a Mongoose flip flop hub, with 30 and 34mm threads.
It has a very long 14mm axle.
this is because BMXs havle thick drop outs to resist damage to the frame and freewheel when grinding along ramps and stuff.
they then have thick washers and a thinnish pair of wheel nuts, which are often grey with a 24mm spanner size
then a peg that is made out of thick metal
then a good thick chrome wheel nut. This is ussually a 19mm socket size.

I managed to get a 7 speed free wheel on there. with a bit of axle sticking out the end.
I spun it off again by using a screwdriver on the bearing cover holes.
I think if i was really building this I would file out the hole in my shimano freewheel remover.

I had an idea of making a frame with a single box section ofset to the right. A metal block inside the end to hold the axle. Some motorbikes have that. It would spread the stress of the wheel axle over a bigger area. Stop the tube being crushed. In front of the wheel would be a jack shaft with 4 chainrings on it. Maybe lower mounted than the frame tubing so the chain doesnt hit the frame or the brake. 3 chain rings to the rear wheel and one on the inside for the mid drive to the cranks nearer the front of the frame. I like mid drives. Also it could be geared up so you can get reasonable gears with a 20" wheel. The jack shaft could be made out of hub spindle and crank parts. I guess that the single sided frame would not allow use of V brakes. So there would have to be a caliper brake. Of course youd have to take the brake to bits to remove the wheel or tyre. The box section then would follow the centre line of the frame to the cranks and steering head. I would try to build that. Have to get better at welding first