Steering Hits Frame

[rsisson]

Ok, I finally got enough together to clamp stuff in place to see how the steering will work.

I don't have "lock-2-lock" steering, only about 30deg worth. then the link hits the frame.

Do my Arms need to be longer, lower, or what.

For everyday riding I don't think I will need 165deg of freedeom, but this seems limited.

I used large ball-joints because thats what I could get quick/cheep.

I can "lower" them a bit by putting the forwards one on the underside of the tang....Oops, No I can't, not enough clearance.

The only solution is to move the pivot point "out" further...I would need to do both so they match...

Ideas please....

[TheKid]

The arm is too short. The easiest way to fix that is to cut it a little shorter and weld another piece to it to make it longer. You could then weld a small piece of 1/16" thick steel, 1/2" wide, under the arm, covering the seam for more strength. A scrap piece from the tubing would work well for that reinforcement, and it won't show.

[rsisson]

And it on the wrong side...that's going to be a larger bother than moving the pivot point out.

[TheKid]

Okay, if you can remove the wheel and flip the for so it's backwards, then you could just lengthen the arm. If not, (Some forks don't allow this option) if you made arm on the rear tube a little longer than the front, as Brad suggests in other plans, you just have to make another front arm for the left side. If you have to make the rear arm longer, cut the one on the wrong side off and use it to lengthen the rear arm.
I'd try flipping the rear arm without lengthening it first. It will most likely work just fine after you put the front arm on the left side. Then you could make a U shaped bracket that goes around the front head tube. One side gets welded to the steering arm on the left side, and the other gets welded to the arm on the right side. Use it to mount a headlight or an ornament. Then it will look like you planned to weld the arm on the left side in the first place.

[AtomicZombie]

Due to the size of the ball joint head, I would make the control arm 1/2 inch longer. That should be just fine.

Brad

[greenevegiebeast]

Brad or any body on the AZ staf. What is the load limit on the load carrer. If you dont know, what is the most you have carred on it?0

[AtomicZombie]

Well, I would rate the frame and wheels for an easy 400 pounds. I have had 3 people and some cargo on the trike over some rough terrain at speeds that I don't recommend and it took it all in stride.

The real question is how many hills will you have to tackle? 500 pounds on the LodeRunner seems like nothing on flat ground. A load of heavy groceries up a steep hill will seem like a lot more!

Brad




Brad or any body on the AZ staf. What is the load limit on the load carrer. If you dont know, what is the most you have carred on it?0

[gbbwolf]

I carry 350 now plus frame of 85 on wolf so whats another 70 pounds of groceries LOL.
As for the hills huff and puff in second gear.
Stop in middle of hill catch breath start again, some hills require 2 stops LMAO.

Nelson

[savarin]

I don't have "lock-2-lock" steering, only about 30deg worth. then the link hits the frame.

I set mine up a different way by welding the arm to the top of a handlebar stem instead of the fork leg.
It works fine and I have plenty of turn angle. Havnt measured it to see how much though.

[anewguy]

How do the Deltarunner trike and the LodeRunner trike compare? Can they carry the same weight? I'm 350 lbs. give or take, but I also like the look of the DeltaRunner. BTW - how soon for the plans for the DeltaRunner?

Thanks!
Dave :)

[AtomicZombie]

The DeltaRunner is more of a sport trike than a load hauler. If you go with the slightly heavier gage tubing, 3/4 axles and double walled rear rims, you will be ok, but not with extra cargo.

If you modded the LRunnner for all 20 inch wheels with 48 spokes, then yes, you could handle more weight.

I will be writing the plan this weekend.

Brad