View Full Version : plastic explosives or blow torch
greenevegiebeast
08-20-2008, 11:29 PM
Ok guys and dolls. While I was disassembling one of my parts bikes (and trying to remember where I put the plastic explosives.)
I though of an interesting questionWhat is your favorite chemical rust remover/bolt loosener?
:D:D
SirJoey
08-21-2008, 02:08 PM
WD-40! It's also good for removing sticker glue, & I even use it as cologne! :D
http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif
Richie Rich
08-22-2008, 12:08 AM
What is your favorite chemical rust remover/bolt loosener?Liquid Wrench (spray can) and Elbow Grease.
....<RR>...
gbbwolf
08-22-2008, 12:17 AM
PB-Blaster is the shiz-nit.
Great chit man.
Nelson
greenevegiebeast
08-22-2008, 11:31 AM
PB-Blaster is the shiz-nit.
Great chit man.
Nelson
That is what I use, before I get out the three pound hand sledge.:D
Sparky
08-24-2008, 07:18 PM
i need to get me a can of PB blaster next time i'm at the store. as for now i use WD-40 and a big hammer.
odd thing happened today whilst taking apart a mtn bike. i wanted to remove the cranks, which on every bike ive done requires lots of oil, wd-40, time, and beating the snot out of it with a hammer. the ones on this bike? slid right off after a tap and some wiggling. i cant even remove the handlebars off this frame (which sucks cause i want the triple tree front fork). the entire bike was a rust bucket- the chain broke in half cause it was so rusty.
but the crank arms came off easy. :rolleyes:
greenevegiebeast
08-25-2008, 12:57 AM
i need to get me a can of PB blaster next time i'm at the store. as for now i use WD-40 and a big hammer.
odd thing happened today whilst taking apart a mtn bike. i wanted to remove the cranks, which on every bike ive done requires lots of oil, wd-40, time, and beating the snot out of it with a hammer. the ones on this bike? slid right off after a tap and some wiggling. i cant even remove the handlebars off this frame (which sucks cause i want the triple tree front fork). the entire bike was a rust bucket- the chain broke in half cause it was so rusty.
but the crank arms came off easy. :rolleyes:
Sounds like you do need the pb catilist, and a blow torch.:D
Richie Rich
08-25-2008, 09:22 PM
...I wanted to remove the cranks, which on every bike ive done requires lots of oil, wd-40, time, and beating the snot out of it with a hammer....I've had an easy time by using an automotive 'pickle fork' which is normally used to remove tie rod ends. (See attached picture).
I got mine here....
http://www.toolsnow.com/browse.cfm/4,167.html
....Richie Rich...
gbbwolf
08-26-2008, 02:57 AM
Cheap azz tool kit I bought had a bottom bracket tool in it.
Crank arms come off super easy.
And a schimano freewheel tool and a 4 foot breaker bar and they come off easy too.
AHHH Tools.
They are what separates us from the caveman.
Nelson
greenevegiebeast
08-27-2008, 01:27 AM
aug rock make good beater aug me like beeter aug me beet hard.:D
n9viw
08-27-2008, 01:52 PM
Oh noes! :lol:
I don't even rate WD-40 on the list of penetrating lubes. Anything it does outside of its ORIGINAL, INTENDED PURPOSE as a water displacer (Which is why they call it WD) is incidental and totally accidental. Tar/gum remover, lubricant, penetrant, faugh. Happenstance!
Now, when you're talking REAL penetrating lubes, I start with Liquid Wrench, spray can or drip. If that plus percussion doesn't work, I move up to P'Blaster, then P'Blaster and percussion, then P'B and heat. Last night, a frozen brake drum came off with P'Blaster and a combination of dead blow and steel mallets.
The last straw is either Gibbs or Kroil. If either of those can't separate them, then it remains that the object is actually one solid part, not two or more parts, and was likely cast that way from the beginning. :D
AtomicZombie
08-27-2008, 03:08 PM
The only thing I am ever doing battle with is the crank arm from the axle or the pedal stuck in the crank. Every time, the blowtorch and wrench have won.
Brad
macka
09-14-2008, 12:42 AM
GasX, Deep Creep, PB Blaster and my favourite the gas axe(torch). In a pinch I've used DexronIII aka brake fluid, and naptha. Nothing says FU rusty part like the oxy acetelene torch though(well maybe a CIL wrench LOL)
greenevegiebeast
09-14-2008, 11:23 AM
Macka please dont use Dextron III in your brakes it is suposed to go in your transmition, you are thinking Dot3 brake fluid.FYI Atf in the brake system will cause the ruber in the system to swell, the swelling will cause the system to leak. The leaking will cause you to lose your brakes, and a very expensive repair.
I have seen it done Not cheap. :eek:
macka
09-14-2008, 11:33 AM
Macka please dont use Dextron III in your brakes it is suposed to go in your transmition, you are thinking Dot3 brake fluid.FYI Atf in the brake system will cause the ruber in the system to swell, the swelling will cause the system to leak. The leaking will cause you to lose your brakes, and a very expensive repair.
I have seen it done Not cheap. :eek:
I was thinking about transmissions at the time I wrote it, and obviously made a gaff. Brake fluid will work to unsieze rusty bolts that should read DOT3 not Dexron. Good catch gvb
greenevegiebeast
09-14-2008, 11:59 AM
I was thinking about transmissions at the time I wrote it, and obviously made a gaff. Brake fluid will work to unsieze rusty bolts that should read DOT3 not Dexron. Good catch gvb
I work in the industry, I see it all the time. What is fun is trying to explain why the are not compatible to some one who smells like they just drank a brewery and acts like it to.
For what it is worth brake fluid is also a great paint remover to. (Found that out the hard way it lifted the paint right off my tool box).
macka
09-14-2008, 05:22 PM
GVB "well sir they both are added under the hood, but they go in different holes" "No sir they are interchangeable, think that one is Jack and the other Wild Turkey, y'all can't mix em without something going wrong"