View Full Version : Tri-cruiser axles
jimFPU
08-22-2008, 03:35 PM
Brad, can you expand the build detail for the Tri-cruiser? I see it is quite a bit different from the Street Fighter/Fox set up, but looks as though it may be easier to build. Any help? Pics?
AtomicZombie
08-22-2008, 05:30 PM
That trike uses exactly the same parts, but cost more to build since you have to have the small round section drilled to 14mm. I do not plan to explore that design again in the future.
Brad
Brad, can you expand the build detail for the Tri-cruiser? I see it is quite a bit different from the Street Fighter/Fox set up, but looks as though it may be easier to build. Any help? Pics?
jimFPU
08-22-2008, 07:55 PM
Sorry for the confusion, what I was referring to when I asked is what I was looking at while typing. Since you have absolutely no way of knowing what that was lemme 'splain'.
I was referring only to the front axle part, and would that work on the SF/SF? You have a close up in the gallery, but I really can't tell what/how you did it. I suppose I'm looking to see if it is easier to do it that way as opposed to doing the tab welding as the other plans call for...see what I mean?
AtomicZombie
08-22-2008, 09:34 PM
No problem, I totally understood. Same answer though.
Brad
jimFPU
08-22-2008, 10:13 PM
OK, then. No worries.
TheKid
08-23-2008, 01:35 AM
Why can't you drill it yourself?
AtomicZombie
08-23-2008, 10:54 AM
You would need a good drill press that couild handle putting a 14mm bit perfectly straight through 1.5 inches of steel. Also, the tube itself was machined. The tab axle mounting solution is virtually free.
Brad
Why can't you drill it yourself?
TheKid
08-24-2008, 02:44 AM
On one version of a steering column for my old quad, I slipped a piece of pipe over a steering tube with the fork cut off, and put a 1/4" bolt through the whole thing. When I tightened the bolt. it squeezed the steering tube, which I naturally discovered was actually two pieces, the tube, and the fork. Those were only tack welded together, and the force of tightening the bolt separated them. I took it apart and braised the fork and steering tubes all around the bottom. Now the holes didn't line up anymore, so I enlarged them to 1/2". That did the trick. It wasn't hard to drill through the tubes, but for steering on a tadpole or quad, I could see how drilling perfrectly straight at a precise angle on two tubes with a hand drill would be difficult. There are plans out there that show how it's done, but I think the tab or tube methods offer easy solutions to correct errors. It's easier to cut a tab or tube, move it into the correct position and reweld it, than to fill in a hole and redrill it.
AtomicZombie
08-24-2008, 10:24 AM
Yes the tab method is SO much easier (and lighter) - I tried many other ways as well.
Brad
On one version of a steering column for my old quad, I slipped a piece of pipe over a steering tube with the fork cut off, and put a 1/4" bolt through the whole thing. When I tightened the bolt. it squeezed the steering tube, which I naturally discovered was actually two pieces, the tube, and the fork. Those were only tack welded together, and the force of tightening the bolt separated them. I took it apart and braised the fork and steering tubes all around the bottom. Now the holes didn't line up anymore, so I enlarged them to 1/2". That did the trick. It wasn't hard to drill through the tubes, but for steering on a tadpole or quad, I could see how drilling perfrectly straight at a precise angle on two tubes with a hand drill would be difficult. There are plans out there that show how it's done, but I think the tab or tube methods offer easy solutions to correct errors. It's easier to cut a tab or tube, move it into the correct position and reweld it, than to fill in a hole and redrill it.