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trikeman
10-11-2008, 08:58 AM
I have been thinking about putting a different kind of seat on my next build, which will probably be either a Meridian or something like the HighRoller. When I first built my DW, I put the standard seat from the plans on it. Later I switched to a mesh seat, which I thought was more comfortable and looked better.

I really like the way those slim carbon (too expensive for me) and fiberglass seats look in the high performance Rans bikes and other high racers. Has anyone ridden one, and are they comfortable? There is even an inexpensive wooden version here:

http://www.geocities.com/atombikes/seat.html

Another inexpensive version was posted by someone that looks cost effective.

http://www.actionbent.com/ventedseat.html

I have heard the seats on bikes like the Gold Rush are comfortable, but they cost way too much, and I have finally admitted to myself that even if my bike isn't fast, I want to to look fast

http://d451392.sites80.storefront-hosting.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=15

So, those of you that have ridden some decent distances on a recumbent (20+ miles). What type of seat do you have, and how do you like it? What seat is the best bang for the buck in the looks and comfort department?

SirJoey
10-11-2008, 10:52 AM
TM, I bought the plans for that wooden bent seat, several months ago, but I haven't gotten a round tuit yet. (Can you spare one? ;)) I have high hopes for that one, though.

The ActionBent "vented" seat is no longer available. It's pretty comfortable, but that's their old, discontinued seat, & they've finally sold out of it. Being covered in black vinyl, it's pretty hot in warm weather, too. The only seat they now carry is the one that's on all of their bents. Fantastically comfortable with the foam pad, but ridiculously overpriced, like most decent seats. It was standard on my tad.

"Borrowed" it for use on the Deltoyd for a while, when I first finished it.

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/6243/dsc03594nl6.jpg



Here's how she looks now, with her own seat. Not as nice OR comfy,
but the "good" seat had to go back on the tad.

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/5595/mod3na8.jpg


http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/9206/signaturehalloweenvr0.jpg

Odd Man Out
10-11-2008, 01:25 PM
I really like and use the standard old RANS original mesh seat. Even after 117 miles on it, I have never felt any discomfort. To me it is the gold standard for comfortable recumbent seating. Also for me, comfort trumps looks, especially in this most important area. Why look good and feel bad?? I'd much rather feel good and the looks will follow...

trikeman
10-11-2008, 01:49 PM
I want to do both - look good and feel good.

Odd Man Out
10-11-2008, 09:21 PM
I want to do both - look good and feel good.

The RANS seat "looks good" (IMH subjective O) but not as good as maybe those slick carbon fiber shells. The comfort of those shells leave something to be desired so if you ever discover the Holy Grail of recumbent seating, please please please post pix and pricing.:)

John Lewis
10-13-2008, 12:38 AM
Seats can be expensive but it's not impossible to roll your own.

The wooden seat needs a simple jig.You then take some ply say 3 or 4 layers, soak it and put in the jig to dry. Jig just needs to be like a crazy ladder so you weave the ply in and out of the rungs to hold you shape. When dry, coat with glue and return to the jig.Cut to shape and its done.

Fibreglass. Cut 2 ply or mdf profiles. Tack some coreflute or maybe galvanised sheet on about a foot wide. Lay up your desired number of laminations, allow to cure and cut to shape.

My current favourite is my take on the Euromesh style seat. It's about 10" wide and 32" long. I bend 5/8" or 3/4"tube to shape and weld. Cover tightly with mesh and then it has a foam cushion from aircon foam. Below are a couple of pics of one of mine prior to getting the foam layer. Completed it looks a bit like the one in Joey's wolf pic.

Anybody interested I have a dxf of a seat profile . If you want a copy let me know.

Here is my pics.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Seat.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/The-seat.jpg

John Lewis

SirJoey
10-13-2008, 04:42 PM
I just gotta say it again, John. That seat looks fantastic!

http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/9206/signaturehalloweenvr0.jpg

greenevegiebeast
10-13-2008, 06:01 PM
John I wonder if that design would work on my DR project, the only thing that wories me is the fact that I will need a seat that is about 20-24 inches wide(I have a BIIIIIG but.) Im not sure how I could brace it to supore my more than ample behind.:D

macka
10-13-2008, 06:10 PM
John I wonder if that design would work on my DR project, the only thing that wories me is the fact that I will need a seat that is about 20-24 inches wide(I have a BIIIIIG but.) Im not sure how I could brace it to supore my more than ample behind.:D

gussets would to the trick for the wider rider. We used to use a thicker wall thickness for dune buggy seats for the bigger guys. Make them wider and add a triangular gusset for strength. If a 280 pound wee lad can use it for 3 years of hard use, I'm sure you can use it on the bent no problem.

greenevegiebeast
10-13-2008, 06:13 PM
Macke I havnt see 280lbs on a scale since high school.:D

macka
10-13-2008, 06:28 PM
Macke I havnt see 280lbs on a scale since high school.:D

well I'm pretty sure you aren't bashing through the bush at 30 mph

greenevegiebeast
10-13-2008, 06:59 PM
only down hill, with a tailwind.:D

John Lewis
10-13-2008, 10:04 PM
John I wonder if that design would work on my DR project, the only thing that wories me is the fact that I will need a seat that is about 20-24 inches wide(I have a BIIIIIG but.) Im not sure how I could brace it to supore my more than ample behind.:D

The design would work I'm sure. You'd need to size it to suit and use bigger diameter tubing perhaps. 3/4" 16ga should be adequate. You would need more cross braces. One or two more on the bottom and ditto up the back.

I think I'd use a heavier tube for the mounting member.

I had a big friend probably about 280 lb sitting on mine and it didn't budge. Of course he wasn't out hammering it on the road. Mine is only 5/8" 16ga tube. actually 16mm by 1.6mm.

Edit: THought I'd add. The seat doesnt have to be all that wide. This one is 10" and thats wider I think than a standard Euromesh seat. My nromal mesh seats are wider 18" to 20" so the side rails are outside the body area. On this one the side rails come just to the edge of my buttocks outside the sit bone area. The seat is comfortable even without the foam. If its too wide the front bar will hit the back of your legs.

John Lewis

John Lewis
10-13-2008, 10:06 PM
I just gotta say it again, John. That seat looks fantastic!

http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/9206/signaturehalloweenvr0.jpg

Thanks again Joey.

greenevegiebeast
10-13-2008, 10:08 PM
John do you think yours could handle another 200lbds , that is what im looking for, somthing that can handle 400+ lbs (I.E. me:D)

John Lewis
10-13-2008, 11:13 PM
John do you think yours could handle another 200lbds , that is what im looking for, somthing that can handle 400+ lbs (I.E. me:D)

That I can't say. Might collapse the trike if you hit a bump with my welding. :D

Actually I think when the seat is bolted in place to the bike frame, it is well supported and very rigid so I think it probably would. Prudence says you should beef it up a bit though to be sure. The bigger dia tube and a couple of strategicly placed gussets should do it.

I think we often overbuild because we are not structural engineers.

Beautiful day out 11 am local time. I should be working on the trike or in the garden instead of on the forum. :)

John Lewis

ggriffin924
10-14-2008, 12:14 PM
John do you think yours could handle another 200lbds , that is what im looking for, somthing that can handle 400+ lbs (I.E. me:D)

I think its like everything else, just scale up the size of the tubing, I used 3/4 EMT for my seat, but if you used 1" EMT, it would still be the same design only slightly heaver, but over twice as strong, of course the 3/4 is over engineered for me, but its better to have overkill instead of under. Its a whole lot harder to bend the bigger conduit however, so not as easy. Another option would be to go to rigid conduit, it has thicker walls, but I think that would be just to much, and also a big difference in the weight of the seat.... For the webbing to scale it up, just double it, if one layer is good for 250+ doubling it should do the trick its very light weight and cheap also.

-Griffin-

TheKid
10-14-2008, 07:07 PM
I made a seat for the Fox that was 20" wide, from 1" EMT. I redid the mesh from drum head tight to a tad loose so it cradled my butt. When it was tight, I was bouncing in the seat, despite the rear suspension. With as much weight as I put on the front, the rear suspension is doing nothing but adding weight. Next time I'll push the wheels further forward. But I digress. The 1" EMT wasn't all that hard to bend, and it supported my buddy with no problem. He says he weighs 380, but I think he's over 400.
Just make sure the first support is no more than 2 or 3" from the front, or as John says, your legs will hit it.

greenevegiebeast
10-15-2008, 02:15 AM
Thanks guys you have given me some ideas for the DR, im building. :D

TheKid
10-15-2008, 02:23 AM
Just remember, the mesh goes on top and over the frame. (I'm a smart alak too.)

greenevegiebeast
10-15-2008, 02:27 AM
kid the world would be dull with out us:D

TheKid
10-15-2008, 03:02 AM
True. So very true. You are truly a gentleman and a scholar, and there aren't many of us left.

trikeman
10-15-2008, 03:14 AM
I have a question about the use of this foam on the euromesh seats. It looks like the foam is placed over the top of the euromesh. How is it attached?

http://store.valueweb.com/servlet/poweron/Detail?no=276

John Lewis
10-15-2008, 05:24 AM
I have a question about the use of this foam on the euromesh seats. It looks like the foam is placed over the top of the euromesh. How is it attached?

http://store.valueweb.com/servlet/poweron/Detail?no=276

On the one I looked at briefly it had a couple of strips of velcro lengthwise. The hooks were on the foam. I think it was just the sticky backed stuff as I didn't see any stitching.

John Lewis

SirJoey
10-15-2008, 08:36 AM
...and the mesh side is the side you sit on! ;)

http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/9206/signaturehalloweenvr0.jpg

ggriffin924
10-15-2008, 12:20 PM
I also loosened up the tension of the mesh to keep from bouncing so much, also to help with holding you in when you go around turns, if you are sunk down in the seat a little you don't get thrown out of the seat as much. I don't have suspension on the DW, but I think its harder on the drive train when I hit bumps, I don't have a problem but it skips gears and makes noise when I hit one too fast. I'm a little hard on a bike, I hate slowing down for turns or objects in the road. LOL.

TheKid
10-15-2008, 02:39 PM
I also loosened up the tension of the mesh to keep from bouncing so much, also to help with holding you in when you go around turns, if you are sunk down in the seat a little you don't get thrown out of the seat as much.

Rick Horwitz designed the seat for his trikes using a sling and mesh so you're "cradled" in the seat for the same reasons. You can find his seat plans in the link, but bear in mind, the placement of the mounts are specific to his Thunderbolt trike. You'll have to figure out what kind of mounts to use, and where they should be located.

http://www.ihpva.org/com/PracticalInnovations/seat_fabrication.htm

trikeman
10-31-2008, 06:59 AM
John:

Thanks for the DCX file a while back.

Do you have a picture of the back of that Euromesh seat? I am interested in how the cords are threaded to hold it on.

jimFPU
10-31-2008, 08:56 AM
I'm building the second seat from Rick's plans now. I noticed the first one I did was a bit too wide, but I'm still a rookie at tube bending. This one may be a bit too narrow for an adult, but will fit my kids perfectly. I may have to switch it out with the seat on the Baby Wolf.

John Lewis
11-01-2008, 07:40 AM
John:

Thanks for the DCX file a while back.

Do you have a picture of the back of that Euromesh seat? I am interested in how the cords are threaded to hold it on.

These pics show how I did it. I used long wide cable ties. That is how the commercial seat I saw was done. Perhaps lacing with cord could be better.

If I laced it I'd do it like a shoe.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Seat_rear.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/PocketB.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/PocketA.jpg

Hope this helps,

John Lewis

trikeman
11-01-2008, 08:50 AM
Thanks John. Just what I needed to see.

Yes, I think lacing with cord might work better in the long run, because you can tighten it up later. I don't know about your fabric, but the stuff I used on my DW mesh seat stretched a bit over time. I stitched mine on at the edges with fishing line, per the recycledrecumbent.com site.

http://www.recycledrecumbent.com/new_page_4.htm

The only way to tighten mine is re-stitch it. My next seat will have some way to re-tighten the mesh.

It appears you put some aluminum rod into the seam. That is a good idea. When I first started mine, I was going to use the aluminum rod method (sewed into the seam). That is the way 25Hz does them at fleettrikes.com

http://www.fleettrikes.com/tth3.htm#seatmesh

I still have the aluminum rod I bought for it, but I think I may also try the grommet and cord method.

jimFPU
11-01-2008, 12:14 PM
I used the left over 80% solar screen for my seats!! It's fairly cheap (considering it was left over from the windows...) and you can get it at any box home improvement store.

TheKid
11-01-2008, 01:13 PM
I used the rod method for my Fox seat. I think it would have the same problem as far as stitching if the mesh stretches. I used Power Pro fishing line to tighten the mesh, which is quite strong, but expensive. I used it because I had a few spools with only about 25 yds. left on each, not enough to put on a fishing reel. If I ever use this method again, I'll use small aluminum turnbuckles in case the mesh stretches. Unfortunately, My back and hips got worse, and the seat angle was too laid back for comfort. I also had to make it crooked so I could sit on it comfortably. So I took it apart and will rebend the frame to a more upright angle, or make it adjustable. I like the mesh in hot weather.

SirJoey
11-01-2008, 06:39 PM
Man, that is just some super fine work, John!

http://img356.imageshack.us/img356/2839/thanksgivingsigsmalllu5.jpg

TheKid
11-01-2008, 08:49 PM
I like that wire tie method. It's easy, ultra neat, and if the mesh stretches, you could easily tighten up the ties. Bravo!

savarin
11-01-2008, 10:15 PM
I cannot remember if I ever mentioned it but just in case:-
I welded my mesh with a hot iron (no steam) by folding the edge over twice so the cut edge is totally sealed inside the fold.
Set the edge between two sheets of "glad bake" (silicon paper, baking parchment) and gently iron to weld the plastic coating together.
I used eyelets and cord but I also think the rod and ties method will work. I will find out on the next seat.
There is no sign of the seams pulling apart so far.
The mesh I used is plastic coated glass fibre as used for patio furniture.

John Lewis
11-02-2008, 01:01 AM
Man, that is just some super fine work, John!

http://img356.imageshack.us/img356/2839/thanksgivingsigsmalllu5.jpg

Thanks Joey,
Flattery will get you everywhere :) . Actually I can't take all the credit. My upholsterer mate did all the stitching.

The cable ties work fine. I cut them right off. If the tail was left they'd be easy to tighten. If I need to do it now I'll just replace the ties.

I like savarins idea of welding the mesh. I'll give it a try on a test piece and if it flies then I'll try it on the next seat.

John Lewis

trikeman
01-18-2009, 01:58 PM
The RANS seat "looks good" (IMH subjective O) but not as good as maybe those slick carbon fiber shells. The comfort of those shells leave something to be desired so if you ever discover the Holy Grail of recumbent seating, please please please post pix and pricing.:)

OK, so you should never never diss a seat you haven't sat on - you might end up owning one one day lol.

Speaking of which, I was poking around on Craigslist the other day and came across a guy selling a RANS Wave with a brand new seat and cadence computer. It had been there a week, so I gave him a call and he still had it. He wasn't willing to come down much on his $300 price since he had more than that in it. A new seat alone is more than that, and seeing as how Sir Joey cornered the market on old ActionBent seats and knowing first hand what it costs to build one, I was interested in at least sitting on it. He lived only a few miles from me, so I went over and rode it. I should never have said in the prior post that I didn't really think the RANS seat looked at good as others, because I bought the darn thing and rode 20 miles on it yesterday and 20 more today. Its like sitting in a lazy boy lol. I wonder how that RANS seat will look on a HR?

It was a touch cold yesterday, as you can see from the ice on the side of the trail.

http://www.atlantamusclecars.com/DeltaWolf/DSC00098.JPG


Wheels are too small on the Wave (20" on back and 16" on the front), but it really wasn't that hard to ride. At least they had the foresight to put Primo Comets on it. The wheels in my head have been turning on that already and I think I have a way to put a 26 on the back and a 20 on the front without cutting or welding on the frame. Don't think I will be cutting the frame up on this one. I will just sell it if when I tire of it.

Odd Man Out
01-18-2009, 03:53 PM
OK, so you should never never diss a seat you haven't sat on - you might end up owning one one day lol.

I should never have said in the prior post that I didn't really think the RANS seat looked at good as others, because I bought the darn thing and rode 20 miles on it yesterday and 20 more today. Its like sitting in a lazy boy lol.

The RANS seat IS the holy grail of recumbent seating for me. I currently have three sitting out in the garage waiting to be put on 3 DW's I will be finishing in the spring. The seat just does everything right (except for its price -- ouch!!!).

trikeman
01-22-2009, 07:01 PM
The zombiazation of this machine has begun. I really did not like the 16" front wheel and read the fork would take a 20", so I decided to try it out with an old wheel. Wow - it rides so much better and even the steering is more stable with the big wheel on the front. Just need to replace that knobby thrift store tire with a new 20" Primo Comet to match the rear. It looks to me like the trail is now just right. Unfortunately the V-Brake bosses are in the wrong place, but I may just put a regular brake on the fork. There isn't enough weight on the front of this thing to stop anything anyway.

I want to replace the rear 20" wheel with a 26", but that is going to require some more serious metal work for the adapters I have in mind, which are basically a couple of plates that bolt to where the original axle did and extend the rear triangle a few inches. .

http://www.atlantamusclecars.com/DeltaWolf/DSC00099.JPG

SirJoey
01-22-2009, 07:43 PM
Man, that is lookin' like a seriously nice machine, TrikeMan! WTG, dude!

Oddly enough, a regular LWB bent bike is about the only thing I haven't built yet.

In fact, I don't even own one, which is kind of ironic, since that was the very first bent I ever owned,
back in '85, but that's what I have planned for my next project, after the Richie Rich Quad Mod & Trike Kit projects.
(Which will both come next, after I finish the current LR, WHEW!!!) LOL!

Anyway, I'm kinda dyin' to come "full circle", with a regular, LWB bent! Thanx for the additional inspiration! :)


http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

trikeman
01-27-2009, 07:07 AM
Anyone know of a good source for some small scraps 1/8" aluminum plate? There must be something small plates of aluminum are used in. I know I can get a 2" wide strip at the Home Depot, but I really hate to encourage the kind of prices they charge for it. Metal is priced more like gold at Home Depot than steel or aluminum lol. I suppose I could just use some of the 1/8" steel plate I have in my metal stash bin, but aluminum is so much easier to machine.

While thinking about an adapter plate for a larger rear wheel conversion on my RANS Wave, I came across this. The guy was adapting a Bacchetta Giro HR to a "fixee" and needed a horizontal dropout. The same idea should work great for what I want to do to make my 20" rear triangle an inch or so longer to take a 26" wheel. I won't need the adjuster screw, of course, since I won't be using a horizontal dropout and the derailer will take up the chain slack.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/31206465@N04/?savedsettings=3216658496#photo3216658496

I also found out Utah Trikes is selling an adapter for an Easy Racer that a user came up with for the stock TerraTrike. Must be a good idea :punk:

http://www.utahtrikes.com/PRODINFO-Gary_Jacobs_Wheel_Extensions_700.html

The ones from Utah Trikes look like stainless steel (I think), but the inventor seems to be using Aluminum. For the price, Utah Trikes is charging, they must be using Home Depot steel!!

SirJoey
01-27-2009, 08:23 AM
Anyone know of a good source for some small scraps 1/8" aluminum plate?How small & how many are we talkin' here, TM?
I may have some, I'll check. If so, you're welcome to it.
Besides, I can't TIG anyway...


http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

trikeman
01-27-2009, 08:52 AM
Probably 3"x6"x1/8" would give me more than enough. I can afford the $10 for the 2"x24"x1/8" piece at Home Depot, of course, but its more the principle of the thing and stubbornness on my part, plus it would be right on the edge for not being wide enough. By the time I paid postage, it would be about the same I suspect. I have a nice big plate of 1/8" steel off a tractor part to make several from that. I may drop by the welding fabricator that sells drops today and see what they have. Larger pieces of aluminum make nice router table tops.

I also thought about just welding on a new cross brace further forward on the chain stays and removing the stock one, but I don't want to destroy the original frame.

http://www.atlantamusclecars.com/DeltaWolf/ChainStayBrace.JPG

Right now I still can not spin out in medium-high gears on level ground on it, so its somewhat of a moot point. It takes a few months to build up those recumbent muscles and my knee hurts if I push it too hard too fast. I guess I should have been riding my lead-sled DW more instead of my wedgies.

SirJoey
01-27-2009, 08:59 AM
The ones from Utah Trikes look like stainless steel (I think), but the inventor seems to be using Aluminum. For the price, Utah Trikes is charging, they must be using Home Depot steel!!Ain't that the truth? Thought I was gonna blow a gasket! :eek:



That Giro is a nice bent. That's the one I based the Nexus on.

http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/8648/girobluefs0.jpg

http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/7986/dsc03944smallxi3.jpg



http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

trikeman
01-27-2009, 09:03 AM
Yeah. I have always though you did a really great job on that Nexus. In fact, if Brad ever decides to update the Bandito, I personally think he should go for the Nexus/Giro look. I see a lot of hard-core older guys riding those 26" and 700 wheel high rollers, but but having the lower BB of the front 20" wheel is probably more sensible if you are over 50.

SirJoey
01-27-2009, 09:08 AM
...but its more the principle of the thing....I don't blame you there. As long as people will pay a given price for something, they'll continue to raise it.

Just walked down there to the shed to check on that aluminum.
Turns out, what I have is a couple of small pieces of 2" angle, 1/8" thick, leftovers from an old tree stand.
Still, if you have a need, I'll send it to ya, NC. :)


http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

trikeman
01-27-2009, 09:16 AM
Appreciate the offer SJ. Let me poke around here some more and work on those legs a bit first. I put the seat forward a bit yesterday and that seems to have helped th knees some. I guess I should not have tried to ride 20 miles a day right out of the box so to speak.

trikeman
01-27-2009, 09:28 AM
I am thinking mine will look more like the Bacchetta Agio (which I also like) than the Giro when I am finished.

http://www.atlantamusclecars.com/DeltaWolf/DSC00103.JPG

SirJoey
01-27-2009, 09:43 AM
That is a really decent lookin' bent, TM!

While looking at that previous close-up shot of your stay&brace,
I noticed those high-dollar idlers, too!
Man, I'd love to have a couple of THOSE!!! :D

You said, "when I'm finished." What's left?
Looks to me like you're already there! :punk:



http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

trikeman
01-27-2009, 09:56 AM
[B][FONT="Comic Sans MS"][COLOR="Blue"]That is a really decent lookin' bent, TM!

You said, "when I'm finished." What's left?

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

Well... I think it would work a lot better if I actually make the brackets and bolt that 26" wheel to the bike, instead of just standing it up for the picture. Also I need to buy or make one of those little v-brake extenders that Tektro and others sell so that I can put the v-brakes back on the front wheel. The original had them brazed on for the 16" wheel, so I will have to use the top hole and an adapter to use the original V-brakes, which work very well. Other than that I think its done until I need to add a 62T chain wheel, if I get that strong.

SirJoey
01-27-2009, 10:06 AM
Well... I think it would work a lot better if I actually make the brackets and bolt that 26" wheel to the bike, instead of just standing it up for the picture.LOL! Okay, I see it now, after going back & looking at it again.
At first glance though, it looks like she's ready to roll!
Still, she's gonna be a sweet ride I'll bet! :D

62t?!!! Dude, you're a better man than I! (That's not saying much, though!) :laugh3:



http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

trikeman
01-27-2009, 10:41 AM
Interestingly, some of the RANS Rockets and Tailwinds came with a 62T chain ring to make up for the puny 20" rear wheel. They should give you about 20% more top end if you can push em (I can't yet). The "20" wheel with tire on mine is about 19" in diameter, so the 26 wheel and tire I have in mind that is 24.5" in diameter should give it about 30% more top end. The 62T chain rings are easy to make (another good use for aluminum plate), according to 25Hz's website, but the big wheels just look so much cooler to me.

trikeman
03-10-2009, 12:26 PM
Way to heavy for some of our builds, but this is a way cool seat:

http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12708

And here is a tutorial on building one.

http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6518&highlight=bomber+seat

rickairmed
03-10-2009, 12:38 PM
Trikeman your linky doesnt work if your not a member there :D.



Rick

trikeman
03-10-2009, 12:39 PM
Easily solved, but beware those guys will get you spending as much (if not more ) on metalworking tools as we do on welders.

rickairmed
03-10-2009, 12:50 PM
Ok Ok I registered what the heck I am into metalwork anyways :D. I like that Bomber seat . I agree about using it on one of our builds although it would work on a Loderunner :D and actually come to think of it several of the trikes would work with a variation of the bomber seat :D.

Rick

rickairmed
03-10-2009, 12:51 PM
Easily solved, but beware those guys will get you spending as much (if not more ) on metalworking tools as we do on welders.

LOL Trikeman remember I had alot of the tools before I came here belonging to forums such as Shopfloortalk and The Garage Journal can also get plenty expensive . The garage journal especially those guys are nuts :D Joey would poop himself if he saw some of the garages over there not to mention all the Snapon MAC and MATCO tools .


Rick

trikeman
03-10-2009, 01:01 PM
Unfortunately, one of the those planishing hammers and English wheels will probably eventually get me, but I just don't have room for more tools. Those guys build some great aluminum car bodies.

rickairmed
03-10-2009, 01:07 PM
Trikeman Horrible freight sells a nice benchtop planishing hammer ( its on my short list ) they also sell a decent English wheel which is also on my list . I have plenty of hand sheetmetal tools though so I could do most of that seat by hand owning an HVAC business has its perks :D.


Rick

trikeman
03-10-2009, 01:30 PM
I'm still looking for a good oak stump, so I can do this. I do have the wooden mallet made from an old baseball bat:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7-cIDfe0FfE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pil1VUzKVVE&feature=related


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mkaCJ5gC3jI

A lot of guys make those tuck forks from a set of Harbor Freight Body work pry bars.

rickairmed
03-10-2009, 01:56 PM
Trikeman I bet I can find you an oak stump up here :D after hurricane Ike and then the Ice storm thers plenty of trees down around here . I still have 2 pines to cut up that fell durring the ice storm and that doesnt count the ones I have already cut up LOL.

Rick

rickairmed
03-10-2009, 11:43 PM
HOLY COW I just took a good look at Metal Meet I could probably spend the next 10 years just catching up over there but then I would be behind 10 years again LOL.

Rick

Danner
09-08-2009, 09:10 PM
It looks like ActionBent has Joey's seats in stock again. :cheesy:
http://www.actionbent.com/ventedseat.html and the fiber-reinforced upgrade http://www.actionbent.com/frpseat.html

But I kinda like the looks of their mesh seat. I wonder how it compares to Rans for instance? http://www.actionbent.com/trident27.html
I've got an email in to them to see if they sell the mesh seat alone. It's not on their "Parts & Accessories" page.

Odd Man Out
09-08-2009, 11:10 PM
It looks like ActionBent has Joey's seats in stock again. :cheesy:
http://www.actionbent.com/ventedseat.html and the fiber-reinforced upgrade http://www.actionbent.com/frpseat.html

But I kinda like the looks of their mesh seat. I wonder how it compares to Rans for instance? http://www.actionbent.com/trident27.html
I've got an email in to them to see if they sell the mesh seat alone. It's not on their "Parts & Accessories" page.

If you like the fiber reinforced seat, go with the one I mentioned earlier from Great Britain -- you can get it at your door for about $90.

Also the better way to get the mesh seat is to go through the guys who make it;
twbents@twbents.com.tw
You would be writing to Kevin who seems like a really nice accomodating guy. I don't see the seat for sale on the Taiwan website;
http://www.twbents.com.tw/index.html
could be it is too new.

Hope this helps

SirJoey
09-09-2009, 06:55 AM
It looks like ActionBent has Joey's seats in stock again. :cheesy:Oh GOODIE... time to RESTOCK! :evilgrin:

...NOT! :laugh3:


http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

Danner
09-10-2009, 06:36 PM
...Also the better way to get the mesh seat is to go through the guys who make it;
twbents@twbents.com.tw
You would be writing to Kevin who seems like a really nice accomodating guy. I don't see the seat for sale on the Taiwan website;
http://www.twbents.com.tw/index.html
could be it is too new.

Hope this helps

I checked with Kevin at TW-Bents, and he referred me back to ActionBents, "to avoid high shipping costs overseas". But when I checked with Steve at Actionbents, he said he can't get the mesh seat either. In fact, TW-Bent sent him a Mantis tadpole without the seat, and he still can't get the seat TW-Bent owes him. Steve kindly advised me not to hold my breath. So there is obviously a supply problem.

Odd Man Out
09-10-2009, 10:39 PM
I checked with Kevin at TW-Bents, and he referred me back to ActionBents, "to avoid high shipping costs overseas". But when I checked with Steve at Actionbents, he said he can't get the mesh seat either. In fact, TW-Bent sent him a Mantis tadpole without the seat, and he still can't get the seat TW-Bent owes him. Steve kindly advised me not to hold my breath. So there is obviously a supply problem.

Kevin did the same thing to me with the fiberglass seats. I emailed him back and forth three times until finally he sent me a price list. I would have ordered from him but I stumbled upon the seats from England and went with those.
Perseverance!

P.S. Got the seats and they are da bomb!

Danner
09-11-2009, 04:23 AM
.... The only seat they now carry is the one that's on all of their bents. Fantastically comfortable with the foam pad, but ridiculously overpriced, like most decent seats. It was standard on my tad.

"Borrowed" it for use on the Deltoyd for a while, when I first finished it.

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/6243/dsc03594nl6.jpg


Joey,
Could you give us a photo or two of this Actionbent seat closeup, without the foam? And a shot of the mounting arrangement? Or point me to it if already on the forum somewhere? Thanks! :beatnik2:

SirJoey
09-11-2009, 05:56 AM
Joey,
Could you give us a photo or two of this Actionbent seat closeup, without the foam? And a shot of the mounting arrangement?
A bit crude, but this was one of my earlier builds. Ignore the flat seat-mount plates,
as they were for the homebuilt seat I originally had on it, & I never removed them.

http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/134/seatmountmethod1.jpg

http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/6181/seatmountmethod2.jpg

http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/4069/seatmountmethod3.jpg

http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/995/seatmountmethod4.jpg

I've long since returned this seat to the tad from whence it came:

http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/8481/actionbent12.jpg

Hope this helps.


http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

Danner
09-11-2009, 06:50 AM
PERFECT Joey, thanks! :hippy:

Odd Man Out
09-11-2009, 07:39 AM
Joey
Have you had any problems with cracking around the points of entry on your seats? Reason I ask is I have 2 of the same (sorta) and I want to drill holes more towards the edges to secure them and yours are the best pictures to date I have seen as to how to mount the things. And besides, who better to ask than the master builder himself.

SirJoey
09-11-2009, 01:13 PM
Have you had any problems with cracking around the points of entry on your seats?
...And besides, who better to ask than the master builder himself.So far, no, but it has crossed my mind as a possiblity. Some washers would be advisable,
with possibly a couple of rubber washers made from inner tube, between the steel washers
& the fiberglass of the seat. Something I've been meaning to do for quite some time,
but even though the AB is an awesome trike, I never ride the darn thing. :rolleyes:

As for the "master builder", he's not currently available, so you'll have to settle for me. :D


http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

savarin
09-11-2009, 06:55 PM
So far, no, but it has crossed my mind as a possiblity. Some washers would be advisable,
with possibly a couple of rubber washers made from inner tube, between the steel washers
& the fiberglass of the seat. Something I've been meaning to do for quite some time,
but even though the AB is an awesome trike, I never ride the darn thing. :rolleyes:

As for the "master builder", he's not currently available, so you'll have to settle for me. :D


http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

So, he's been replaced with the "Master Baker" :chef:?
I think I spelt it correctly???:jester:

Danner
09-11-2009, 07:20 PM
Just let that one go, Joey...

SirJoey
09-11-2009, 08:17 PM
Just let that one go, Joey...Yeah, I think you're right... :laugh3:


http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

savarin
09-11-2009, 11:00 PM
Hey! I was only referring to the oven skills.
Honest:rolleyes:

John Lewis
09-12-2009, 08:59 AM
P.S. Got the seats and they are da bomb!

Hi OMO,
would appreciate hearing more of what you think of those UK seats. Couple of guys here want to get them but are a bit concerned they might be sold a pup. I thought I'd ask you and pass on your comments if that's OK.

John Lewis

Odd Man Out
09-14-2009, 01:30 AM
Hi OMO,
would appreciate hearing more of what you think of those UK seats. Couple of guys here want to get them but are a bit concerned they might be sold a pup. I thought I'd ask you and pass on your comments if that's OK.

John Lewis

John
Check my latest post in my build blog. :punk:

John Lewis
09-14-2009, 09:55 AM
Thanks OMO, I did that and passed on the details. Think they'll be a lot happier now.

John Lewis

jimFPU
09-14-2009, 10:37 AM
OMO, what is your blog site?

Odd Man Out
09-14-2009, 01:55 PM
OMO, what is your blog site?

Don't have an independant one -- I am kind of cheatin (hackin!?!?!) by creating a build blog thread in the Warrior Trike section:
"Spartan and Hoplite Warrior Trike Build Blog"

jimFPU
09-14-2009, 05:57 PM
Ah, yes now I remember...

likebikes
12-11-2009, 07:14 PM
I just purchased a seat like the one Sir Joey shows on his trikes and I was horrified to see I have to drill holes in it. I guess I should have figured though. I got it on flea bay from a guy in Canada and it hasn't ever been mounted. No hardware or instructions, so I'm wondering how the seats on SJs trikes have held up? Any advice like rubber grommets, bolt types or what have you?

Danner
12-11-2009, 08:04 PM
One thing to check - go to joey's website http://bikesandtrikesandmore.com/ and browse around his photos. I seem to remember seeing a few closeups of just what you're looking for. If you have some questions you could PM him, usually he loves to share his experience. May take a few days for him to see the PM, he's less active on the site these days. I know he's had the seat on and off several of his bikes and it's held up well.

likebikes
12-11-2009, 08:33 PM
Thanks Danner, I'll be looking that over. He has tons of photos and I don't want to mess up this seat!

arovaris
07-28-2016, 09:30 PM
Seats can be expensive but it's not impossible to roll your own.

The wooden seat needs a simple jig.You then take some ply say 3 or 4 layers, soak it and put in the jig to dry. Jig just needs to be like a crazy ladder so you weave the ply in and out of the rungs to hold you shape. When dry, coat with glue and return to the jig.Cut to shape and its done.

Fibreglass. Cut 2 ply or mdf profiles. Tack some coreflute or maybe galvanised sheet on about a foot wide. Lay up your desired number of laminations, allow to cure and cut to shape.

My current favourite is my take on the Euromesh style seat. It's about 10" wide and 32" long. I bend 5/8" or 3/4"tube to shape and weld. Cover tightly with mesh and then it has a foam cushion from aircon foam. Below are a couple of pics of one of mine prior to getting the foam layer. Completed it looks a bit like the one in Joey's wolf pic.

Anybody interested I have a dxf of a seat profile . If you want a copy let me know.

Here is my pics.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Seat.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/The-seat.jpg

John Lewis

Hello can you give me your dxf file!! This is my favorite seat!

John Lewis
07-29-2016, 03:33 AM
Hello Arovaris,

lucky I came looking or I'd have missed this.

Due a computer crash way back the DFX file is no more.

But I can still provide details. I can measure up the seat and I have a spare seat rail.

I've dug that out and when I find my protractor to measure angles I can give you the details.

The seat as I made it was 10" wide and the side rails were copied from my Logo Trike. I just added some right angle bends to join the top and bottom of the seat. I used 5/8" 16 gauge tubing and it has proved more than strong enough and fairly easy to bend.

The cross pieces were just a simple V about 2" deep placed at the upper and lower side rail bends and the one underneath was
a U shape with about a 60 deg bend each end and also about 2" deep. You can make that one as deep as you need to adjust seat height. I placed it a little ahead of half way on seat pan as you can see in the picture.

A friend did the mesh cover. It wraps round the back and has a wide double thickness hem. I punched half circle cutouts in it at appropriate points, threaded some old brake cable outer down the hem and pulled it together with heavy cable ties.

The top and bottom have pockets and a hem across to pull them down tight.

It is covered on top of the mesh with some 2" aircon filter foam.

The seat is comfortable and the Delta wolf is my favourite trike ride for towing the dog in her trailer when we go out.

Anyway, back to the shed to hunt out the protractor.

I was surprised seeing these pics. Had pretty much forgotten all about it. Years since I built the Wolf.

John

John Lewis
07-30-2016, 04:01 AM
Hopefully here is the image.

Not great but hope you can follow it. Half an inch or
a degree or three here and there and it will work out fine.

With these measurements and the pictures you should be able to make
a fair copy.

The bend radius of the bend at the seat pan is about 4".

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/seat_zps4wq4dd59.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/lew2au/media/seat_zps4wq4dd59.jpg.html)

Hope this helps.

John

IrvJamison
07-30-2016, 10:43 PM
Go to https://sites.google.com/site/recycledrecumbents/home website for great plans. Look on the left panel towards the bottom for plans or just purchase a complete seat assembly. AD Carson is GREAT to deal with!!

John Lewis
07-31-2016, 06:13 AM
I love those Recycled Recumbents. I've built 5 for myself and others.

Being in Australia its a bit far to buy bits from AD so I just follow the plans.

The seat being asked about in this thread is my attempt at a Euromesh style seat.

It is just as easy to build as an AD Carson seat and proved comfortable but it does need that foam piece.

Should mention I've built a few AZ designs as well as some of my own too. Love building and riding all of them.

John