View Full Version : Rear Axel
gphil
04-16-2009, 09:10 PM
Ok guys need a little help here. Being new with this and all and before I destroy the wheel I will hide pride and ask. Should you not be able to pull the rear axel out of the wheel without taking off the freewheel? It has the Shimano type but the way I see it if you can't get axel out of the way then how can you get the freewheel off. The thing is lose but is a mystery to me . Is it pressed in? Let the old guy know something here or the sawsall will show me. Thanks for you input. gphil
TheKid
04-16-2009, 09:31 PM
Assuming you have a wheel with a freewheel and not a freehub, you can buy a tool to remove the freewheel or make you own by welding a nut that will fit in the center of the freewheel and welding a length of steel to it. Turn counterclockwise. Once loose, the freewheel will come off the hub.
I'm also assuming that by saying "the thing is loose", your turning the sprockets. That's how the freewheel works. Basically, it's a ratchet. The sprockets are on a shell that spins on the body of the freewheel when turned counterclockwise, and locks into place when turned clockwise. The center is part of the body of the freewheel that screws onto the hub.
greenevegiebeast
04-16-2009, 10:19 PM
yes gphill, the axle should be removable. there are usaly two nuts on each end one of whitch ir usaly tne inner bearing race, take them both off in one side and it should jjust slide out.
trikeman
04-16-2009, 10:22 PM
A picture of what you are dealing with would help. I assume you have removed all the nuts?
greenevegiebeast
04-16-2009, 10:26 PM
be carful trike man, if they remove all the buts there would be no one left on the forum:jester::jester:
TheKid
04-17-2009, 05:26 AM
Should you not be able to pull the rear axel out of the wheel without taking off the freewheel?
Not necessarily. If the cone nuts are flanged, they may not pass through the center of the freewheel body.
gphil
04-17-2009, 08:20 AM
Yes I can get the nuts off on both sides and one cone. On the side with the freewheel, a inner nut may be the cone on that side will not come. I thought it would just pull from that direction since there is nothing but the bolt on the other side and it is loose, moves around etc. I know that if I cannot get the axel out then getting the freewheel off the hub will be impossible. Well we will see and thanks. gphil
gphil
04-17-2009, 08:21 AM
By the way, the cone were beveled or one was no flange on it. Can't see the other one deep in the freewheel area. gphi
TheKid
04-17-2009, 08:37 AM
I know that if I cannot get the axel out then getting the freewheel off the hub will be impossible.
The axle has nothing to do with removing the freewheel. If anything, you need to remove the freewheel in order to remove the axle.
You need a freewheel removal tool to remove the freewheel:
http://www.bikepartsusa.com/bikeparts/item/01-138528/tool-freewheel/Pyramid-Pro--Free-Wheel-REMOVER-SHIMANO%2C-Tool&category=tool-freewheel
Or you can make your own by finding a nut the will jam into the center of the freewheel and welding it to a piece of steel as Brad shows in his plans.
The tool is hollow, so it fits over the axle. Then you just use a wrench to remove the freewheel. Brad's method works just as well, and it's cheaper.
This may help:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WTfs3gEhgKo
Radical Brad
04-17-2009, 12:33 PM
It could be that the bearing seal (a small ring over the cone nut) is getting in the way. Just bang the non freewheel side of the axle to push the cone through the seal, and it will then fit through the hole in the freewheel center.
A rubber mallet or 2x4 should be used so you don't mushroom the axle.
Brad
gbbwolf
04-17-2009, 02:47 PM
Had the same problem axle didnt want to push through on the one I took apart. rubber mallot will knock it out better yet is a deadblow hammer kinda like a rubber mallot but filled with sand, swinging the deadblow forces the sand to other side on impact really works well for not damaging stuff thats stuck.
nelson
TheKid
04-17-2009, 07:13 PM
If you have neither of those tools, thread two nuts on the end so the threads are recessed in the outer nut, then hit it with a hammer. Remove the nuts after the axle is free from the obstruction on the other side.
Should you not be able to pull the rear axel out of the wheel without taking off the freewheel? It has the Shimano type but the way I see it if you can't get axel out of the way then how can you get the freewheel off. The thing is lose but is a mystery to me . Is it pressed in? Let the old guy know something here or the sawsall will show me. Thanks for you input. gphil
Did I misunderstand? I thought you wanted to remove the axle so you could remove the freewheel. You don't have to remove the axle to remove the freewheel.
gbbwolf
04-17-2009, 10:50 PM
Yeah freewheel will come off over the axle cone and nut without the axle removed on most of them.
But you do need a freewheel removal socket. like 8 bucks at bike shop.
If you want to build your own using a nut and a big steel rod welded to it you will have to remove the axle.
Nelson
TheKid
04-17-2009, 11:29 PM
If you want to build your own using a nut and a big steel rod welded to it you will have to remove the axle.
You can remove it with a nut welded to a length of steel without removing the axle. I've done it many times with freewheels that have different center spline patterns than Shimano. Just make sure the center of the nut is open when you weld it to the steel. If the spline is set too deep in the freewheel, weld a nut onto a length of pipe, bang it into the spline, then use a pipe wrench to loosen the freewheel. If you can't get enough leverage, a "persuader" will be necessary. (A long piece of pipe over the wrench handle to lengthen it.)
gphil
04-18-2009, 07:50 PM
Thanks for putting up with me guys. I got it off, pulled the axel out the other side. Rigged some stop nuts and went to it shade tree style. Now the vidio showed just how I went around my elbow to get to my nose.Getting a proper wrench for the freewheel. Never thought to go to Youtube great stuff there. Been makeing the steel hubs and already mess up. Hard to get the soke holes equally around the side. Yep downloaded the print but just get going too fast. Practice makes perfect. I guess the spoke holes need to be exact. One of mine is off 1?16 or so . My steel man cuts the hubs off a stock bar to 1/8 . Once more thanks for the advise and sure hate to seem so dense for I have built many cars etc. Bikes no. Got four bikes to hack from so I now have no excuse but you will probably be hearing from me real soon. Thanks again. gphil