meridian with 700c wheel commissioned

[borntoride]

Hello felow lwb enthousiasts

My new Meridian was roas tested this afternoon. The designer's promises held up. What a great machine. So relatively easy to master compared to other LWB I tested. Super comfortable. I still have lots of work to do. Derailers obtained from donor bikes do not work properly with megarange rear cog. Front derailer is extremely hard to shift. Before putting money into these I wanted to test. I am not disapointed. Later, I will have to take care of the esthetics. I did not clean alll the the welds so anxious was I to test! I will send additional pictures when finished.

[Locutus]

Nice one, BTR. Where did you get that seat and backrest?

[Patrike]

Nice looking build -- did you build it for your mommy - that seems to be this weeks theme on meridians :jester: -- Sorry Greg, couldn't resist!

I concur whole heartedly with Locutus -- really like the seat -- lets get some closeup pics of how you mounted the bad boy! I'd like to do a Recycled recumbent seat and your mounting meathod may prove to be helpful -- cheers

[comreich]

Well done BTR. I like the idea of a 700c wheel in back. So many options for fast tires and wheels. And if I'm not mistaken, that looks like an EasyRacers seat, right? Looks a little skimpy on the seat padding though :)

[Odd Man Out]

Actually I am betting it is a RANS seat without the seat cover. You know you can get the elastic seat covers from the RANS website:
http://www.shoprans.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BPST0022C
Yikes -- $40.00 but considering they sell the seat for $395, I guess the cover is a deal...

[borntoride]

Hello all

Odd man out guessed correctly it is a rans seat. I got the parts relatively cheap from e-bay over a series of months (frame without seat pan then seat pan, then cushion) I only bought new the mesh cover. Could not afford whole new seat , will make my own cover.The seat is adjstable . Will post pics tonight.

[borntoride]

Hello again

The seat can be adjusted front to back. Two parallel steel plates with holes were welded to the top of the frame. The bracket at the bottom of the seat being wider than 1.5 inches, there is a space between bracket and the steel plate filled by thick washers made from a plastic cutting board. Also I drilled two holes in the bracket below the existing one to give some adjustment potential on the height of the seat. Finally two seat stays were made out of aluminium tubes to enable seat angle adjustments. These are held on a bolt going tru the rear pilar of the bike. I must admit i did not intend originally to buy the already made seat. But I started to accumulate parts one year before starting the project. I came accross a good deal for the used frame without seat and took the risk that the other parts would become available cheap on e-bay (i do not recommend this). Still, this is definitely the 'splurge' item on my bike. No, it was not made for my mother. But I think she would have been appreciative of the work done.

[Patrike]

Great work - can you post some pics of the back rest support connections.

[savarin]

Nice!
If I can be so bold as to offer a teenie weenie bit of advice?
The split instant it works to your satisfaction start dismantling it for painting.
If you dont you will end up having so much fun riding it it will never get done.
Dont ask me how I know:rolleyes4:

[borntoride]

Hello Savarin

I will heed your advice and finish it this week-end. I had one question I want to adress to all. I have not yet completely cleaned the welds. I am a bit worried about weakening them. Are there any rules about that? For exemple, the joint between the frame and the front tube holding the front fork: I know I should not grind the top and bottom welds. But can I really safely grind the side welds till they sort of disappear ? Also I have tried posting pics of seat backstays, but I get message that I exceeded my puny quota of 75 KB.

[savarin]

If the weld is a good ie, good penetration then there should be no problem.
Dont remove all the weld just smooth it down and make sure you dont grind the parent metal either.
Those flap disks that fit angle grinders do a great job, start with 80 grit and finish with a fine grit

[GregLWB]

Hello Savarin

Also I have tried posting pics of seat backstays, but I get message that I exceeded my puny quota of 75 KB.

Many of us use Photobucket to post our pictures. Several use Flikr but depending on your network you may not be able to see those.

Greg

[graucho]

Hello Savarin

I will heed your advice and finish it this week-end. I had one question I want to adress to all. I have not yet completely cleaned the welds. I am a bit worried about weakening them. Are there any rules about that? For exemple, the joint between the frame and the front tube holding the front fork: I know I should not grind the top and bottom welds. But can I really safely grind the side welds till they sort of disappear ? Also I have tried posting pics of seat backstays, but I get message that I exceeded my puny quota of 75 KB.

If your open to some tips and tricks here's a few.

Come at it from another angle.
* Do your welding to the best of your ability.

* Use a hand size grinder (4.5") for your first pass.
* Touch up your welds "here and there" if need be.
* Come back with a good quality double cut burr or hand files and make it look presentable.

Then heres where the body work comes in. Believe me, its easier than you may think!
Find somewhere in your area that sells automotive quality spot putty like this. http://www.tcpglobal.com/3m/3m750-6.aspx
* Use a dab on your finger and pull it around your joints/welds/scratches/pits in thin amounts/layers.
* Dries in 20 min, sand dab, sand dab etc. It's not like applying bondo. This stuff sands down fast.
* Keep it up until you start to smile at your weld dissapearing.
* Spray with sandable primer to bring out imperfections. Repeat above if need-be.

You can literally have all of your welds disappear in about 3 hrs. (Tops) Ready for full primer. (while drinking a few beers even)
This is how I made all of my mini choppers look so pretty. LOL If you want to
take a "special build" to the next level its well worth it. If your a seasoned professional welder and want to show off your beads,
ignore the above. LOL

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll13/grauchosbikes/grauchos_build/grauchos_build/21_license_plate_rear.jpg

[borntoride]

Thanks Graucho and Savarin for the very timely advice. I feel more confident now. I will try to post pictures using the alternatives you mentioned. Have a good day!

[borntoride]

Graucho I forgot to add Wow!!! grest work

[borntoride]

Hello again

Here (I hope) the pictures of the seat backstay set up I used. Also, thanks again Graucho for the welding clean up advice.


http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv146/borntoride/th_IMG_0001_11.jpg (http://s678.photobucket.com/albums/vv146/borntoride/?action=view&current=IMG_0001_11.jpg)
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv146/borntoride/th_IMG_0001_10.jpg (http://s678.photobucket.com/albums/vv146/borntoride/?action=view&current=IMG_0001_10.jpg)

[borntoride]

Hello again

Here (I hope) the pictures of the seat backstay set up I used. Also, thanks again Graucho for the welding clean up advice.


http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv146/borntoride/IMG_0001_11.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv146/borntoride/IMG_0001_10.jpg

[TheKid]

That's a good link Gaucho, thanks. Some of us have been posting the spot putty method for a couple of years. I use Bondo brand, because that's the only brand in the two auto parts stores near my house. The non-mix kind is good in the summer, because it dries fast. But once the temp goes below 70°F, it takes an hour or more to dry. In cooler weather, I use Bondo two part glazing putty, because it only takes minutes to dry in any weather. But it's a pain to mix, and you have to work fast. It's much easier to sand than the body filler. Another good tip you posted was "touch up your welds". I was taught that last year, and it makes a world of difference. Once I sand the welds down, if there are any pits or holes, I go back over them, sand, then check again. any pits get a going over again. There's much less need for putty that way, and I believe it strengthens the weld.

[Patrike]

nice clean setup on the stays - I like -- thanks