Pics

[gphil]

You fellas asked for pics so I am going to try this and cannnot assure its success. One pic is of the finished spoked wheels. The other is it sitting on the floor getting ready for major welds. Don't need to say how many time I had to lace those rims but have it down now. So here goes nothing. gphil

[TheKid]

Looking good gphil. You're an expert wheelbuilder now.

[gphil]

Thanks for the quick response but expert is a little out the box. If you look close blood spots are there. Putting the spokes in was one long lesson but getting the wheel true was another just took time I found out. One day soon my builds might look as good as yours. Take care and thanks. gphil

[Richie Rich]

Don't need to say how many time I had to lace those rims but have it down now. gphilIt gets easier after the first dozen or so, Phil. :cheesy:

Great job so far. Keep it up...!!

...Richie....
.

[JayRay]

Gphil
Your build is looking real nice!
I am very interested in following your
progress since I am considering the
DeltaRunner for my next build.
Please keep posting progress
reports and more pictures.

Did I say "next build"? :rolleyes4:
I better finish my LodeRunner first.
I did however score two free 26" junkers
through my local "freecycle.org" that
would be perfect for a DeltaRunner.

Looking forward to seeing more...
Jay

[John Lewis]

You fellas asked for pics so I am going to try this and cannnot assure its success. One pic is of the finished spoked wheels. The other is it sitting on the floor getting ready for major welds. Don't need to say how many time I had to lace those rims but have it down now. So here goes nothing. gphil

Looking good Gphil. You'll have it all done in no time.

When I look at your finished wheel It seems to be not quite right. I had the same problem with mine. If you look where the valve stem is you will see that it is between two crossing spokes. One "bay" further round clockwise you will see two almost parallel spokes. That is where the stem should be. The reason for this is to allow easy access for the pump. Not a real problem if you can get the pump on easily. Have a look at another wheel and you will see what I mean. I chose to pull mine down and respoke it. Then had to do one again to get the spoke setup right for the disk brakes as they showed a particular spoking. No problem on a diamond frame but on the DW and LodeRunner wheel they have to be a left and a right hand. All traps for the unwary and I was unwary.:jester:

John Lewis

[gphil]

Thanks for the input John, I'll take a look at it. More pics soon. gphil

[dakidd1]

Is it me? It looks like your bearings are mounted to the rear of the back boom. How is your freewheel, or brake rotors, going to have room to spin in that position. Not sure how that will work..... I am building that same model right now, and the bearings are at the front end of the 2 outer shorter booms.

I have a real time at lacing my wheels back together, also... Usally takes me 3 tries to get it right. What they say, practice makes perfect...

I am in the middle of getting ready to move to Iowa, soon. So basement is really cluttered. But here is 2 pics of my build, as of tonight. Will make the secound rear wheel, tomorrow. Man it really takes a lot of time to make this stuff ................... Good luck with your build, I'll be a checking back to see how you are comeing along.

http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww103/dakidd1/DSC01464.jpg

http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww103/dakidd1/DSC01465.jpg

Ron

[gphil]

You know Ron, believe you are right. Looking at my own pics it does appear too far to the rear. So I am on the way to the basement for a look. Why do things happen like this. I hope if it is wrong that welding in the holes and repositioning won't hampper the strength. More to follow gphil

[gphil]

Well guys messed up big time and as Ron mentioned, put the holes too far to the rear. Guess I managed to destroy a nice frame. I don't know what I was thinking. bye for now. gphil

[John Lewis]

Well guys messed up big time and as Ron mentioned, put the holes too far to the rear. Guess I managed to destroy a nice frame. I don't know what I was thinking. bye for now. gphil

No real loss except time. I think you can weld up the holes and reposition. Hard to tell in your pic but you may only need to move the bearing forward and reutilise one of the holes. Only have to drill one new hole per bearing and weld the unused one up or not as you please. You could just put a bolt in it even.

John Lewis

[gphil]

Thinking back I beleve I measured correctly but placed the bearing on the hole to make the next one,I placed the bearing to the rear instead of the front. Head up and locked. I think I can weld up the rear use the fwd one and redrill another towards the front. You think a lone weld will be good enough or should I beef it up with a small piece of stock? gphil

[dakidd1]

It it was me, I would use a small washer that just fit snugle inside the hole I drilled by mistake, and weld that in place to fill in the hole. Grind away excess, and it will be as good as new.

If it wasn,t for all the mistakes I make on a continuall bases, my wife tells me I would be a perfect " Blank Blank " Welcome to the club, gphil.... lol

Ron

[trikeman]

I'm having a hard time seeing the problem. Unless something else is gonna get welded on at the front there, it looks to me like the freewheel has plenty of room to spin, and so will the brake disc. I haven't built this model, so maybe I don't understand what is going on.

[TheKid]

I'll take a pic of my DR to show how those holes could be put to good use. As mentioned, use the existing front holes and use them for rear bearing bolts, then just drill new holes for the front bearing bolts. I needed a platform to hold a box above the rear frame, because the disc brake is higher than the frame. I used coupling nuts on the front bearing bolts, and nylock nuts on the rear bearing bolts. Then I drilled holes in the rear crossmember, which you now already have, and put bolts from the bottom up, and held them in place with coupling nuts. Just make sure the bolts on the bearings and ctossmember are only long enough to go halway into the couplings. I added 3 strips of 1/4" aluminum flat bar on top of the couplings, and used countersunk screws to hold the aluminum strips in place. 3/16" aluminum would also work, but I already had 1/4". The box is simply screwed to the aluminum strips. In the first pic, you could see the coupling on the front bearing bolt. The second shows the strips, which were later cut shorter. You could see the couplings on the rear crossmember. All you'll need to do is plug the hole that lines up with the tine to the right of the main boom. An easy way to do this is to use an old 3/8" axle. Put a nut on one end, and drop it in with the nut on top. Weld the axle in on the bottom, then cut it off and grind. remove the nut, then cut the axle flush and grind smooth. A thin later of spot ptty worked well into the space between the axle and the hole and sanded with fine paper will hide the imperfection. No one will see the weld on the bottom.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z66/edpol_photos/Delta%20Runner/000_0489Small.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z66/edpol_photos/Delta%20Runner/000_0501Small.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z66/edpol_photos/DR%20Motor/100_0275Small.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z66/edpol_photos/DR%20Motor/100_0277Small.jpg

[gphil]

Yep, a washer would work. I went and looked and all the holes are gonna have to be filled. I don't guess the freewheel will have enough clearance or not favor the not. The end hole for the bearing bracket is on the reward piece of frame putting the axel real close to the same end crossmenber. Your are correct. The next build will be flawless. Thanks for the hel:rolleyes4:p and advise

[savarin]

Theres no real reason to fill the hole unless its an aesthetic thing.
You wont loose any strength there

[gphil]

Thanks for all the input guys. I'll be taking more pics to show some more of the screw ups for sure but it is fun to be doing this. Not so much the stress but I do not want a way for moisture geting into the frame through the holes. Besides the way I weld, a big glob of gphil metal will work this time. Thanks. gphil