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odm1
02-10-2010, 12:07 AM
started the warrior build today i have always wanted a trike but could never aford one, thanks brad !!!! so i got the forks,drop outs seat tube and crank tube all together and somehow the seat tube is a half inch to high the angle is is 45 degreas on the monny though dose any one see any future problems with this ? also i want to use skinny tires up front maby 1 inch will i be ok going around corners ? i will be using a dubbel wall rim 36 spoke 20mm hub

darwin-t
02-10-2010, 12:46 AM
It looks like you have a good start there. Two questions..... Is that a postal service tub there in the background? Tisk tisk. (I used to work there and they had about a million of these missing at one point).

Is that a Harbor Freight 90 amp, 110 Volt wire fed welder? How's that working out?

Your main measurements you need to keep in mind are the height from the floor to the tube at the proper spots and the lengths of the tubes. These set the steering axis angle, if I understand it correctly.

I don't know about the thin tires. I'm new at this, too.

Odd Man Out
02-10-2010, 09:38 AM
started the warrior build today i have always wanted a trike but could never aford one, thanks brad !!!! so i got the forks,drop outs seat tube and crank tube all together and somehow the seat tube is a half inch to high the angle is is 45 degreas on the monny though dose any one see any future problems with this ? also i want to use skinny tires up front maby 1 inch will i be ok going around corners ? i will be using a dubbel wall rim 36 spoke 20mm hub

The 1 inch difference might reduce your ground clearance by 1 inch -- remember that the pulley goes under this area -- are you going to have enough clearance??? plan for this and if so you will have a slightly lower Warrior...

Skinny tires are no biggy -- you should have 70 percent of the weight on the front tires so fat or skinny -- they will stick. Hope this helps.

darwin-t
02-10-2010, 11:04 AM
In rereading your original post, are you saying that the ground clearance at the rear of the frame is 5 1/2" instead of 5"? If so, just set the height to 5" and don't worry about the small difference in seat back angle.

You may have to re-cut the angle so the front part of the boom is at the proper height.

Hopefully Brad will weigh in on this and give a definitive answer.

odm1
02-11-2010, 10:50 PM
yep thats the welder,its ok,its no miller by any means, but not bad for a hundred bucks. i was using a arc welder and had a hard time with filling holes and making a decent beed i do fine on a peice of flat stock and not joining to peices together, but when trying to weld the tubing together my beeds look like a 1 fingerd blind kid did it!!!! much props to brad with his skill !! with the harbor freight welder my beeds are ok and they feel strong, im no pro so if any one thinks its a bad idea to use this mig please let me know!
i dont know where that bin came from, it was their when i moved in,better get rid of it
before i get busted, i have the worst luck with dumb stuff like that.
as for the frame it is 5.5 inches from the ground to the seat tube, i think i will suck it up and try again. this will be my third atempt. ohwell im having a blast building it and i really want it to be as good as i can get it !!
thanks for the help i will post more when i get further along

this guy sells all kinds of stuff for building your own bikes like head tubes bb tubes and all kinds of recubent stuff a bit pricy for me but might benifit some of u guys
www.gaerlan.com

Freth
02-12-2010, 06:48 AM
On the stick welder ... you were possibly running too high of amperage and maybe too thick of a stick.

I have a wire-feed welder that I use all the time and it seems to glue/melt things together pretty darn good. If you really want to know ... get a couple pieces of scrap tubing, use the wire welder on them to attach to each other, then put it in the vise and beat on it to see if it breaks, and do a cross-section cut to see how the weld looks ... then just keep practicing with it ... bringing the amperage up to just less than burn-thru (you want a hot weld, not a cold weld where it simply lays metal on top). This amperage will vary according to the thickness of the pieces of metal you are attaching to each other. Make liberal use of the hand-grinder to smooth things and make the weld pretty. And that is the full extent of my limited welding knowledge ... :-p

Radical Brad
02-12-2010, 10:37 AM
Looks like you will be just fine... keep up the good work!

Brad

darwin-t
02-12-2010, 02:16 PM
I got the wire fed welder - it was on sale for $98. I tried a couple of practice beads and it lays some narrow beads. I didn't try very much today - it is cold out there!

odm1
02-13-2010, 09:13 PM
check out this seat i might use, its off a old xr honda :punk: i got the seat hight right and built the sterring tubes today just gota save up for the front wheels and find some cranks but i like the seat its comfy and real close to brads seat dementions

likebikes
02-19-2010, 11:31 AM
Cool idea for a seat, until I read where you got it from, I thought it may have come off my KLR650.

odm1
03-22-2010, 12:08 AM
finally got her on all three's today, this trike is awsem i had my brother push me around for a bit it rolls so smoth and streight. I cant wait to finish it !! i dumped th moto seat idea and went with brads design, it is a lot more cumfy i used some pading u would use for nee pads, i think it will work real well the bitex hubs i got woked out good , i just had to take some of the inner sleve off, i would have taken the sleve out completly but one bering is larger than the other
any one know where to get tie rod ends cheap?

darwin-t
03-22-2010, 11:10 AM
I think they've raised their prices since I first found them

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3061

Cheezy Rider
03-22-2010, 11:57 AM
Try this website: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ap/bearings_aurora.html
Not sure of all the sizes, but check. Hope this is what you are looking for.
I used to buy stuff from them for my plane, prices not too bad on some stuff.

vrooom3440
03-22-2010, 01:31 PM
Rod end pricing depends on the type and quality you get, not all are equal.

For basic rod ends I used http://www.thebigbearingstore.com/.

But many of the hot rod suppliers have an array of rod ends:
www.summitracing.com
www.speedwaymotors.com
www.southwestspeed.com

Not going to make any claims about price for any of them... you can do your shopping and make you choices ;)

odm1
03-22-2010, 11:37 PM
thanks for the help :wings: got all 4 tie rod ends shiped for under 30 bucks, now can any one tell me where to ge a cheap ferrari ? just joking, thanks again!

Cheezy Rider
03-23-2010, 11:25 AM
How did you get the angle on the chain stays? I can't seem to get the 45 degree spread between the center boom and the seat tube, without the chain stays being close to horizontal. I have tried figuring out everything but can't seem to get that steep angle on the chain stays and keep the 45 degree spread.

Radical Brad
03-23-2010, 12:57 PM
Push the stays up a bit more, then just take a bit of the gap in the joint out using a grinder of file - it should not be much more than 1/8" or so. The top and bottom of the joint will have no gap, so you could just fill the small gap in the sides without worrying about a perfect fit.

If you look at Figure 53, you can see that I had a 1/8 gap as well.
Compared to Diagram 2, how much more parallel to the ground are your stays?

Brad

darwin-t
03-23-2010, 01:26 PM
I wouldn't worry too much about the seat angle, a little one way or another won't make much difference. The angle of the tube in front of that is more important, it sets you angle on your steering heads. Is that right, Brad? That's the way I understand it.

Cheezy Rider
03-23-2010, 04:16 PM
I went ahead and welded it. The angle between the seat tube and center tube is 50 degrees. The stays are at about a 10 degree uphill slope, which is not as much as the pictures. Hope it doesn't cause any trouble in the rest of the build.

k6zwc
03-26-2010, 09:47 PM
I see exactly what Cheezy's talking about, i"m seeing it on mine too. If I were to get a perfect fishmouth on the top of the seat tube and the required angle at the bottom of my seat tube I'd have to make the seat tube about 23.5" long to be a perfect fit.

What I'm hearing from what Brad posted is to modify the angles in the "Fishmouth" to keep the suggested length and to keep the suggested angle between the seat tube and the frame tube. Is that right?? Just checking.

And I'm using a 26" MTB tire and the clearance is at the suggested height from the ground.

k6zwc
03-26-2010, 10:37 PM
Ok I just re-read the top paragraph of page 34, that should be enough to put my neurotic angle measuring to rest...

Mike

odm1
03-27-2010, 01:02 AM
I think cheezy is right with the seat tube @ 10 deg mine is @ 11 and I had to tweak my arms a bit but the seat tube is the important one cus it gives you your head tube angle

Cheezy Rider
03-27-2010, 02:08 AM
How hard of a time did you have making the cross tubes and steering setup? That's what I am not looking forward to. How long did it take you to get to this point? Seems like you got it built pretty quick. Looks good, keep up the good work.

odm1
03-28-2010, 02:18 AM
not to bad, i did a test run with some scrap tube got it close then copyed the cuts on to the sterr tubes leaving room for eror and in a hour i was done.
what gears are you using? got mine today, went with 30 40 52 up front and 11-32 8 speed in the rear,i hope its not to much what do you guys think?

Racer46
03-28-2010, 10:19 AM
not to bad, i did a test run with some scrap tube got it close then copyed the cuts on to the sterr tubes leaving room for eror and in a hour i was done.
what gears are you using? got mine today, went with 30 40 52 up front and 11-32 8 speed in the rear,i hope its not to much what do you guys think?

I think that's the same gear ratio I have on my TerraTrike Zoomer with the 26" wheel. It's not too bad unless you're doing a lot of steep climbing, which doesn't happen much here in Florida.

Cheezy Rider
03-29-2010, 12:09 AM
Haven't thought about that yet. I was going to use what was on this bike that someone gave me. I was going to use the BB & crankset, along with the front and rear derailers, not sure if I am going to use the shifters from the bike or not. Or I may get a whole new set up.

odm1
04-07-2010, 01:03 AM
warrior 5 finnaly got to cruise the bike today:punk: got up to 15 mph ,just have to clean it up,adjust the gears more, and paint

Radical Brad
04-07-2010, 10:41 AM
Great! You have some nice hardware on there.

Brad

odm1
04-16-2010, 01:54 AM
fresh out of the back yard,i mean the paint booth

Racer46
04-16-2010, 08:08 AM
Nice looking trike. 1 quick question. It appears that you have welded the bottom bracket in place, why did you leave the boom tube that long in front of the BB?

Cheezy Rider
04-16-2010, 11:17 AM
I was just getting ready to ask those same questions. Is there a reason you welded the BB? I take it you are going to be the main one riding it, and that is just right for you.

PeterT
04-16-2010, 09:29 PM
Nice looking trike. 1 quick question. It appears that you have welded the bottom bracket in place, why did you leave the boom tube that long in front of the BB?

:jester::jester: So that when he has to deal with Spandex Wedgies, he can put the front boom through their spokes, and then tell them that their bike is now broken, so he will take it off of them and use the parts for a better purpose ... His next build! :jester::jester:

More likely is that he is using it as a gear protector if the trike should stop too quickly and lift the back end, his gears are protected from getting bent teeth.

PeterT

odm1
04-17-2010, 02:13 AM
I left the boom long because I have a wheel I am going to mount to the bottom of the boom so I can do stoppies , kmx trikes has the same option and I'm planing on using the hole that I made, that is in the tip of the boom for my bike lock. If all gose well I will post the finished trike satarday night, I have been working on it for 6 hours now , and nothing is going back right , hopfully sleep will help :sleep1:

odm1
04-17-2010, 09:50 PM
finally done:punk: now you guys can see what i ment by the wheel for doing stoppies. the most troble i had was trying to find the chain pullys. i used garage door pullys but the chain would fall off. i tried close line pullys and the chain would fall off then tried rollerblad wheels with a grove cut in the middle and you guest it the chain fell out i looked every for the ones brad used but had no luck and couldnt order online because of banking problems, so some how whats on their now works like a dream. the rear pully is a skate board wheel and some furniture sliders the trike gets a lot of atention and is real fast, so far 25 mph is the fastest, thats from going down hill a little i was woried that the font wheels would go out of control going that fast but she glids straight and smoth and stops on a dime with the back tire in the air if you guys know where i can get the right pullys please let me know, im shure i will need one for the back soon, going night riding latter zombie peeps

graucho
04-18-2010, 10:30 AM
Great job. I like the design addition of adding the thicker rear tire. Just in time for a full season of riding. Great bike, have fun!

Radical Brad
04-18-2010, 12:40 PM
Very nice work!
A gallery shot, perhaps?

Brad

Cheezy Rider
04-18-2010, 09:26 PM
Nice job. How long did it take to build, from start to finish. I've got mine about over half done.

odm1
06-12-2010, 02:09 AM
hey guys, just want you to know i will be selling my trike, i would part it out for 400 or sell the wole bike 4 500 and donate some cash to help out az i need cash 4 the next progect and im going through a divorce so all funds are tied up in the prusuit of freedom if u could help out i would apreciate it,thanks!!

SirJoey
06-12-2010, 08:00 AM
Whoa, sorry to hear that, dude. On BOTH counts... the divorce, AND having to sell your ride. :(
Good luck with both! :rockon:


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(Geezer & Bent Enthusiast At Large)