View Full Version : DeltaWolf questions
First off I'm not in the best of health and I think this would be a excellent way to get excerise plus do ham radio at the same time. Lots of hams go mobile on regular bikes and trikes.
I need to know about how much its going to cost me to build one? I'm on disability income. I can't afford one of the store brought models and I like to build. At local bike shop a trike runs 800 to 1000.
How hard is it to pedal one of these? I sorta got tired on a regular cheap store brought 10 speed.
Last item and I'll shut up. There is just about no place fun to ride in this town. Going around the block gets old. How ever in Rapid City they have bike paths, lakes and lots of places to ride. So how much of a headache is it going to be to trailer one. I have a Yaris small car to begin with.
Jerry
trikeman
04-29-2008, 11:31 PM
Jerry - the cost to build the Delta depends a lot on how much you are able to scrounge from other bikes. I pretty much got everything I needed for mine from a few thrift store bicycles I paid an average of $6 each for. As I recall, the things I had to buy new were:
New set of tires (3 @ about $10-$15 each)
New steel for the frame (about $12)
Pillow block bearings (4 @ $9 each)
New steel rod for the axles ($10)
Steering Ball Joints (2 @ $5 each)
Large Washers to make wheel hubs (4 @ $1 each)
Paint $6
Seat Foam $5
Plans $15
Disc Brake and Caliper $25
These numbers are from memory, but I think they are close to what I paid. In the end, I probably spent less than $175 to build mine, if you don't count the new welder and angle grinders, and various other tools I needed to buy. Of course, it wouldn't be fair to count them all against one bike. It also doesn't count the cost of the "welder's disease" I caught from this. Welder's disease is an affliction that once you start welding, you find all sorts of new tools you want to buy. If you are cheap, as I am, you find yourself a regular customer at Harbor Freight. You also start thinking you need a truck or trailer to haul all that steel, and you find all sorts of new things to make and build. Then, you start thinking you really need a bigger welder, and on and on.
As far as peddling it - I don't find it any harder to pedal than a regular bike, but to be truthful it is heavy at 50+ pounds. Its not as easy to pedal up hills as my wedgie, but it sure goes down fast! It is a relatively large machine, so transporting it is not as easy. For me that is not a problem, since I live only 1/2 mile for a nice bicycle trail. If you get tired on the delta, you can just stop. You are already sitting in an easy chair, so just stop and enjoy the scenery. Its a lot more fun to ride than my wedgie.
TheKid
04-30-2008, 12:54 AM
Having low gearing also helps. You may find that going to 24" wheels might be a better option. You can also get a small chainring set, 22-32-44 teeth, and a megarange freewheel, 11-34 teeth, to lower the gears further. You mention that you're not in the best of health, but weren't specific. If you have knee and/or hip problems as I do, a higher seat may be needed, and short cranks may also help. I had to do some modifications to my Streetfox because my condition deteriorated, possibly from not bing able to ride during a good chunk of the winter. I raised the seat and pushed it rearward, and bolted my bottom bracket to the bottom of the main frame instead of the top. These changes helped immensely. I also have very low gearing, which really helps with some of the hills around here.
With 24" wheels and the gearing I mentioned, your lowest gear would be low enough to tackle almost any hill, and your highest gear would yield 11-17 mph @ 40-60 RPM.
The DW is about 8' long. If you have a long enough trailer, your car should have no trouble towing it. It's fairly heavy for a trike, but not that heavy.
SirJoey
04-30-2008, 08:55 AM
Welcome to the Krew, Jerry.
Not counting the 2 brand new bikes I bought just to rob the front wheels from them to make rears for the trike, & not counting all of the accessories I gobbed on, mine came to around $250.
Bear in mind, your first build will cost the most, due to buying your first batch of steel stock, but you'll have lots of leftovers for future projects. When figuring the TRUE cost of a project, I usually figure the cost-per-foot of anything that gets cut. Here's the breakdown:
3/4" square tubing for gussets - $18
1 1/2" frame tubing - $22
4 pillow blocks - $32
freewheel adapter - $12
3/4" axle rod - $24
2 ball joints - $10
seat materials - $20
expanded steel (for luggage rack) $14
1" angle (for luggage rack) - $11
paint & primer - $13
3/8" steering rod - $6
2 disc brakes - $65
idler pulley - $10
used donor bike - $11
various nuts, bolts, washers etc. - $5
chrome der. tube cap - $2
name decals - $6
plans - $15
(This is not a cost-per-foot list.)
Trailering your wolf won't be a prob as long as you have an eight foot trailer. My trike ended up being 7' 7" long, which seems to be roughly average, based on other guys' previous posts.
As for weight, with a heavy-guage luggage rack & tons-o'-accessories, mine came in at a whopping 65lb, but I was lucky enough to scavenge a mega-range derailleurs & gears setup from a used donor, so in low gear, even with the weight, she pulls like a mule! If you gear it right, pulling even the steepest hills shouldn't be too much of a prob, especially if you use 24" wheels, as the Kid mentioned, which is what I did on mine, cuz I'm not a real strong rider, & not likely to run out of RPM in high gear.
Good luck & be sure to take lots-o'-pics! Now, get out there & start hackin'! :D
trikeman
04-30-2008, 11:28 AM
Also, you might want to check out 25Hz's rack design for carrying recumbents at his excellent web site. He also has some cool bike designs and build ideas there:
http://www.fleettrikes.com/tth.htm#trikerack
dharouff
04-30-2008, 07:12 PM
Just a thought, if your only going say 5 miles (through bad traffic) could ya build something for the front tire and let the wolf just tag along? Not sure I am describing what I'm thinking very well.
Richie Rich
04-30-2008, 10:55 PM
Just a thought, if your only going say 5 miles (through bad traffic) could ya build something for the front tire and let the wolf just tag along? Not sure I am describing what I'm thinking very well.I was thinking the same thing. Depending on the laws in South Dakota, Jerry, you may be able to register it as a 'utility trailer' which would require some sort of hitch, lights, etc.
......Richie >>
I don't know, but its worth a thought. Its about 10 miles to Rapid City, probably 15 miles to get to any of the neat places to ride. And if I went to Mt Rushmore or some of the popular park lake areas 30-40 miles At least 10 miles on instateat 60 mph +, part in city traffic. I'm thinking the back end of the trike might really bounce around.
My plan first is to build it, then go from there. LOL
Jerry
TheKid
05-01-2008, 01:10 AM
OK Here's how it's done. You make a tongue to clamp to a trailer hitch. The tongue bolts to the main boom, using the same type of clamp as the BB, but the tongue goes on the bottom of the boom. The tongue also goes under the front wheel, with a 4-6 inch wide plate under the wheel. You use a U-bolt to anchor the wheel to the plate. For ballast, you strap one of those inflatable dolls they sell in the back of porno mags to the seat, and fill it with water instead of air. You'll also need a battery operated pump for liquids, and probably a long hose. When you get to your destination, preferably near a source of water like a river or a lake, you let the water out of the doll.
On your return trip, you take the battery operated pump and use the water from the river or lake to fill the doll up again. Problem solved, if you don't mind looking like a weirdo and a pervert. If you'd rather just look like a weirdo, you could use one of those old Joe Palooka punching toys instead.:D
SirJoey
05-01-2008, 08:02 AM
Personally, I wouldn't tow one that far, that fast. I'd go with a cheap 8' trailer, like HF carries. Add a sheet of ply, (maybe some stake sides) & you're all set!
Mine was originally a folder, which could be used as a 4' or 8' either one. Now it just has an uncut solid sheet of ply, so it no longer folds, but it still tilts, & the rear drops all the way to the ground, enabling me to drive my riding mower right in! The trailer's about 20 years old, & in spite of being seriously overloaded at times, has served me well, & still gets used a lot.
The little box on the front is a cradle for the front wheel of Chopzilla, which is longer than the trailer!
Now, if I could only afford to replace those dry-rotted tires! http://joeywallace.spaces.live.com/photos/cns!9D0D4DF6F50AAFC2!1664/?&_c02_owner=1&_c02_vws=1
3dipper
05-13-2008, 08:05 AM
I've been looking for a post about removable rear wheels for a DW, and haven't found one. I thought I'd seen one a while back. Can any of you help? Thnx
trikeman
05-13-2008, 08:10 AM
I've been looking for a post about removable rear wheels for a DW, and haven't found one. I thought I'd seen one a while back. Can any of you help? Thnx
Lots of the good stuff posted over the last few years is in the archives. They are searchable, but slow.
http://www.lucidscience.com/forum/default.asp
trikeman
05-13-2008, 09:14 AM
This may be the post you are looking for, unless you want to go the keyed-axle route
http://www.lucidscience.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1885&SearchTerms=removable
By the way. I also seem to recall someone saying they twisted off one of those bolts running through the axle when they used it on their disc brake.
Richie Rich
05-14-2008, 01:15 AM
By the way. I also seem to recall someone saying they twisted off one of those bolts running through the axle when they used it on their disc brake.I recommend using hardened bolts (Grade 5 or greater). I've built 2 trikes and a quad with single bolt removable wheels and haven't sheared one yet. In addition, the quad has dual rear disc assemblies which are attached to the axles the same way with hardened bolts.
I'm a hefty 250+ pounds and grinding me to a stop without breaking anything is a pretty good testimonial to those bolts....!!! :)
....Richie >>
trikeman
05-14-2008, 06:32 AM
Thanks Rich. Its good to know you are not having any trouble with them. I can't remember who it was on the old forum that said they sheered a bolt on and don't know if they were using Grade 5 or better.
TheKid
05-14-2008, 01:27 PM
It's also possible that whoever sheared the bolt didn't drill through the centers of the hub and axle. I also read somewhere else about the bolt shearing on a manufactured trike. I forgot the brand name.
3dipper
05-15-2008, 02:17 AM
Hey guys - another question:
Could I use BMX 48 spoke 20" wheels with 14 mm axle for rear wheels on a delta wolf for a short 160 lb rider. My nephew says he can mill the ends of the 5/8" axles in the DW so I can use two wheels I have on hand. (I live in a fairly hilly part of W Va so the 20" wheels should make it easier on the 71 year old legs and heart).
AtomicZombie
05-15-2008, 06:43 AM
Yes, that will work fine.
How does he plan to secure the drilled hubs to the axle? Expect that braking forces will be many times more than driving forces, so you may need to key the axle and hub.
Brad
Hey guys - another question:
Could I use BMX 48 spoke 20" wheels with 14 mm axle for rear wheels on a delta wolf for a short 160 lb rider. My nephew says he can mill the ends of the 5/8" axles in the DW so I can use two wheels I have on hand. (I live in a fairly hilly part of W Va so the 20" wheels should make it easier on the 71 year old legs and heart).
Richie Rich
05-15-2008, 10:36 PM
My nephew says he can mill the ends of the 5/8" axles in the DW so I can use two wheels I have on hand.Perhaps I'm misinterpreting your statement, but are you going to have your nephew mill ends of the 5/8" axle down to 14mm??
That's just a tad over 1/2" and I'd be concerned about the axle bending in hard turns. The 14mm axles in the wheels are hardened steel, but your new axle rod isn't.
Just something to consider....
....Richie >>