Grinder/tools

[NR5A]

In getting ready for my DW build I ordered a chop saw to make cutting the steel tubing easier. A grinder is mentioned several times. I was at Menards today and was looking at stuff I will need to get. They had one for $15 a 4 inch one. I noticed you can get all kinds of grinder discs for it for 2.50. Is this a good deal?

Also what kind of welder should you use? They had a ARC Welder for about $100. Would that work.

I'm trying to get a few tools that will be needed without taking out a loan. LOL

Jerry - NR5A - South Dakota

[Richie Rich]

Jerry....for a hand-held grinder, I highly suggest that you get one which has an on/off switch which is trigger mounted and is a momentary type.

Many that you'll see have a side-mounted slide switch which in my opinion can be quite dangerous.

Look for this type of grinder with a trigger switch....

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/208/475134704_75dfe826f5_o.jpg

Here's one I found online...

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200355681_200355681

Another "MUST HAVE" tool is a full face shield. Never do any grinding without one. Your eyes are worth a lot more than the small price of a full face shield.

Best of luck with your project...!!

.....Richie >>

[SirJoey]

....for a hand-held grinder, I highly suggest that you get one which has an on/off switch which is trigger mounted and is a momentary type.
Many that you'll see have a side-mounted slide switch which in my opinion can be quite dangerous.

...Another "MUST HAVE" tool is a full face shield. Never do any grinding without one. Your eyes are worth a lot more than the small price of a full face shield.

Good advice on the grinder, Richie, I whole-heartedly agree.

Good advice on the face shield, too. Although I don't personally use one, I do always wear safety glasses. This is the bare minimum!

Jerry, I can't speak for the quality of the grinder your speaking of, but the price is sure good!

[n9viw]

I generally don't wear a face mask because I can't keep from fogging them up, but I do wear safety glasses. I've singed holes in my beard and mustache, but hey, it makes for good "No $#!t, there I was..." and "You should see the other guy" stories on Monday morning. ;)

I have two grinders; on one, the slide switch broke off, so I replaced it with a 30A DPST switch. I hate those momentaries, because since most of my grinding takes a while (Jeeps), my hand gets tired holding the dumb thing down. The other does have a momentary trigger. Both are 4". It's nice to have two (or more) grinders, so you don't have to change out disks. I keep a flap wheel in one and a cutoff wheel in the other. I also have grinder wheels, but usually prefer the flap disks unless it's really hard stuff (correcting welds, etc).

Incidentally, a bench grinder dressing tool can be used to square off the edges of a reinforced grinder disk, helps if you need a quick v-groove or precision work.

[NR5A]

Yes I hated the old one I had that sat in the shed for 15 years never used. That switch was a bear to hold in all the time. Good idea on the switch I think I will do that!!!

What is a flap wheel??

Last item has to do with welding. I can find ARC Welders that I can afford for under $100. Would ARC welding work?? IF not I'll just pay to have it done by a welder, which I was going to do anyway.

Jerry - NR5A - South Dakota

[n9viw]

Here is a flap disk: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=44975 . It looks like a grinder disk, but has flaps of sandpaper attached to the face of the disk. It makes short work of paint and rust, particularly because the disk is slightly flexible, allowing the sandpaper to keep constant contact with the work, unlike a grinder wheel.

I've read a lot of good stuff about the Hobart 125EZ, a fixed-settings FCAW (flux core arc welding) machine. The cheapest price I've seen on it was $220 at www.toolking.com . Harbor freight also has a 90A FCAW machine for about $150, but I can't attest to its efficiency.

Any stick welder less than $100 had better be used; I wouldn't trust a buzz-box that cheap to do anything more than aggravate me. I had one of Harbor Freight's 100A stick welders, and I hated it. I could only run it with 1/16" rod, and it stuck more than it ran. I finally sold it on ebay and bought a Century 250/140 AC/DC stick welder.

[TheKid]

Those flap discs are terrific. I use them instead of the grinder wheel for sanding the welds down too. There's more control over how much metal you remove. If there are real heavy spots on the welds, I'll grind them down with the grinder wheel first. This was done completely with a 60 grit flap disc:

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z66/edpol_photos/hauling%20platform/000_0238Small.jpg?t=1210095193

The Harbor Freight welder is like the one I have. In fact the front is exactly like the one I have. There are only 2 settings, Min and Max. I just ordered the Hobart 125 EZ, waiting for arrival. ( Just under $300 for the welder, adapter for 10 lb. spools, and shipping. The welder was $279.) The old welder works well, but has become sporadic in quality of welds after a year of use.

[Freth]

I tried a 14" metal chopsaw ... I found that for me, my angles were more accurate using a hacksaw (after marking and following the lines on all 4 sides). The 4" hand grinder is good for slight modifications.

[TheKid]

My preference is a miter saw, being able to cut compound miters. Before I got it back, I was using a sawzall at a slow speed. I find it's faster and easier than hand sawing, and deadly accurate. I noticed that chop saws go out of whack sometimes, even the larger ones, and especially the cheap ones.