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View Full Version : And so it begins... GizDraks Warrior



GizDrak
04-21-2010, 08:59 AM
Well I have started my warrior and it would not be right of me not to share so here we go!

I have made 3 rear forks now. first two we will call training lol. so here is my 3rd rear fork and the front wheels I just got in the mail enjoy!

I made a jig up to help me keep the fork aligned correctly worked out pretty well. it is in the pictures below.

darwin-t
04-21-2010, 01:01 PM
When I built my rear fork I had to tack weld a couple of strips of steel across them to keep things lined up. It took me two tries to get it right.

Cheezy Rider
04-21-2010, 05:01 PM
Looks good so far. Nice wheels, huh? They sure look good with my Schwalbe Marathon Racers.

GizDrak
04-21-2010, 07:48 PM
yeah I need to pick up some tires and tubes and get a back wheel heh


Looks good so far. Nice wheels, huh? They sure look good with my Schwalbe Marathon Racers.

GizDrak
04-21-2010, 09:26 PM
Just got done with the rear drop outs have not welded them to the fork yet will do that soon. I did not have any sheet metal the right size or any tubing the right size so I looked around my pile of bikes and found a old mongoose BMX bike cut off the front and rear dropouts welded them together and ground them in to shape! I am not totally sure why but they look like alien heads to me lol.

Here they are.

Autonomous
04-21-2010, 09:53 PM
Looking good GizDrak! I notice the alien thing right away!
You know the Premier of PEI is a Giz with and "h" though "Robert Ghiz" son of a former Premier Joe Ghiz. I planted tobacco as a young man just up the road from where Robert's mother Rose Ellen McGowan grew up. I remember the growers son telling me how Joe would get stuck in the muddy lane when he was courting Rose Ellen and he’d have to go and pull him out, again and again. LOL A sad addendum to the story though, years later the Tobacco grower, a wonderful round man, hung himself in the barn.
Great start to your trike GizDrak!

Cheezy Rider
04-21-2010, 11:15 PM
Yea that top picture looks like two aliens or monkeys bad mouthin each other.

GizDrak
04-25-2010, 02:21 PM
Picked up a bike today for parts for my warrior! got the 26" back wheel I needed with disc brakes! I am going to use the rear wheel disc brake on the rear wheel. the shifters the crank and probably some other stuff off this bile for my warrior.

Got a deal on this one only $140 for the bike. cheaper then I was going to spend on all the bike wheel alone heh.

pictures!

Autonomous
04-25-2010, 03:54 PM
Wow! Great looking bike GizDrak. Can't believe you got one with front and rear brakes for $140. I hope the frame is steal so you can use the rest in this or the next build. Who knows maybe you'll be welding aluminum by years end too! WOW! That was dumb I just looked again and saw aluminum written right on the frame!

You're one up on me I'll be waiting another 2 weeks for the Ebay seller to ship me the brake pad missing from the disk brakes I received from BC this week. Son of a gun! The metal my friend ordered was the wrong stuff too. I guess I should have driven out to see him or sent him a photo attached to an email. He wasn't there when I went to look at it either so I may have to make another trip. Anyway I'm glad to see everything is going well for you Giz.

GizDrak
04-25-2010, 04:13 PM
That sucks Autonomous I get my steel from a supplier here in the city I was surprised how cheap it was only 70 cents a foot! I have already bought 40 feets of the stuff lol.

I also ordered tires and tubes and the Avid BB7 brakes for the two front wheels. and a Dual cable brake leaver so I can brake both front wheels at the same time. they should all be here this week!

I got to get back to work on the frame soon. the rear fork is done I need to post pictures of it!

sucks your brake was missing a pad how could that happen???

Yeah it is aluminum but I should be able to use everything but the main frame. back fork will be good for my next project I am sure I will find a use for the front wheel too!

I really need to read my post before I post I typed up that last one so fast it has so many silly spelling errors in it.

Autonomous
04-25-2010, 04:30 PM
I wasn't picking on your spelling I would never do that! I thought aluminum was spelled wrong on the bike frame but I guess it was my failing eyesight. LOL
The Ebay seller said that they never had a part left out before.

.70 per foot WOW!
The stuff they ordered me was $2.40 a ft. of course it was near twice as thick as it was supposed to be.

My spelling is "Atrocious" LOL

"Atrocious" that's rich!

After I got scolded like an eight year old for making a couple of mistakes in spelling I learned to have my word processor running in the background I just copy & paste it to the WP just to see if or how many mistakes I made. That's where I got the idea that "Aluminum" was spelled wrong. My word processor was correcting it to "Aluminium" and I believed it for a moment. LOL One's British the other American. I guess I'm kind of stuck in the middle. LOL

Believe me I use the edit button a lot!

GizDrak
04-25-2010, 04:44 PM
It all good Autonomous I was beating myself up over the spelling was not saying you called me out. Yeah I was so lucky to find the steels so cheap couple other places in the city was $1.50+ for it!

The funny thing is I am using Chrome which has a built in spell check and I seem to ignore it lol.

savarin
04-25-2010, 10:19 PM
That's where I got the idea that "Aluminum" was spelled wrong. My word processor was correcting it to "Aluminium" and I believed it for a moment. LOL One's British the other American. I guess I'm kind of stuck in the middle. LOL



Ha Ha, your spell checker got it right first time. :jester:
Its Aluminium in the majority of places in the world.

interesting facts here if your interested in its Etymology (the study of historical linguistic change, esp. as manifested in individual words)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminium

Sorry to hijack the thread.

GizDrak
04-26-2010, 09:17 PM
Small set back.... my new back wheel does not fit in the drop outs... ops now I have to cut the dropout off and respace them and weld them....

Odd Man Out
04-26-2010, 10:06 PM
Its Aluminium in the majority of places in the world.


Sorry to hijack the thread.

You are assuming that the "majority of places in the world" speak and write in English...
That may be a false assumption
ergo
Your assertion "may" also be false :punk:Aluminum:punk:

savarin
04-27-2010, 02:25 AM
You are assuming that the "majority of places in the world" speak and write in English...
That may be a false assumption
ergo
Your assertion "may" also be false :punk:Aluminum:punk:

Nope, they actually spell it aluminium even in non english speaking countries.:rockon::jester:
qed:
aluminium

This is probably where the Canadians agree with the Americans as they spell it aluminum.
Mind you, dont most people use "Ally" now?

PeterT
04-27-2010, 03:57 AM
The Periodic Table spells it "Aluminium", so that just means that any other spelling is corrupted, ie using US english spellcheckers!! instead of proper english spell checkers :jester:

PeterT

savarin
04-27-2010, 04:53 AM
The Periodic Table spells it "Aluminium", so that just means that any other spelling is corrupted, ie using US english spellcheckers!! instead of proper english spell checkers :jester:

PeterT

Right on Peter!
how can you trust the spelling from a country that spells "night" "nite" (although this is not officially really recognised there):jester::jester::jester: and removes all those double "Ls" and "Ps" from words, replaces functional "eSes" with "Zeeees" and "Cees" with "eSes"
Pah! I laugh in your general direction. :laugh3::p

mark barker
04-27-2010, 05:59 AM
Right on Peter!
how can you trust the spelling from a country that spells "night" "nite" (although this is not officially really recognised there):jester::jester::jester: and removes all those double "Ls" and "Ps" from words, replaces functional "eSes" with "Zeeees" and "Cees" with "eSes"
Pah! I laugh in your general direction. :laugh3::p

Its the "u" I feel sorry for, left out of so many words! and don't get me started on "re" and "er"! ;)

Odd Man Out
04-27-2010, 10:00 AM
Okay Okay
I feel like I am in the midst of a bunch of Somali pirates...

Autonomous
04-27-2010, 02:38 PM
Yesterday I quickly edited my post insinuating that aluminium was spelled wrong on Giz’s bicycle frame worried I might trigger a cross border spat! Now it’s literally sparked an international incident! I didn’t check the periodic table but actually did believe our spelling was “Aluminium” After quickly consulting a former PEI school teacher who spelled it “Aluminum” I decided perhaps the joke might not fly with “our American cousins” as the Brits like to say and redacted it.
I was wrong, this is some funny stuff!

Facebook left a bad taste in my mouth for online misunderstandings. It seems the more I tried to explain the worse it got! LOL

Autonomous
04-27-2010, 03:01 PM
WOW! I just checked, I guess it was two days ago I edited that post. How time flies when you're trying to stay out of trouble! LOL

Autonomous
04-29-2010, 10:44 AM
:offtopic:Hey Giz I have no experience starting a thread or finding the right place to post this but I thought you and Cheezy might be interested in it. I haven't put a lot of thought into recumbent bikes yet but this one has my neurons firing! LOL Simplest, most interesting design I’ve seen yet. This one is under development but they have others with full suspension. I took one look at this and knew the heading for my new thread.
“Gentlemen start building!”

http://www.cruzbike.com/catalog

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9GPDJctkXs&feature=related

Cheezy Rider
04-29-2010, 12:00 PM
Just pick an area, like "General Chat", then you will see in the left side of page towards the top where it says "New Thread". Just click on that and you will have started a new thread in the General Chat section, or whatever section you plan on putting it.
Nice looking bike, but not sure I want steering & pedeling at the same point. I read somewhere that it takes some getting used to, since your legs are pushing on the same place that your arms are trying to steer. Worth a try though if you have some scrap bikes, and time on your hands. As I do. Never know if we don't try, I guess.

Odd Man Out
04-29-2010, 12:11 PM
Autonomous

If you like the CruzBike you will looooove this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KlSEpBh2zVw

It is the FlevoBike -- they have plans for this on the web for FREE:

http://flevofanclub.ligfiets.net/?doc=ch5&lang=en.

Autonomous
04-29-2010, 03:14 PM
Thanks Odd Man Out I was watching the video thinking "What the hell is this guy saying?" Flipping the rear up and down and up and down, then he swivelled the steering and I was all like "that's COOL!"

I think once I get started building there is going to be a lot of crazy bikes & trikes seen around the neighbourhood!

There's a Flevotrike too I guess just no plans available?

Odd Man Out
04-29-2010, 03:50 PM
There's a Flevotrike too I guess just no plans available?

No real need -- the pivot is the thing and once you download the plans for the bike you got it. The rear of the trike is a simple rolling rear end -- nothing special.

GizDrak
04-29-2010, 03:50 PM
I have to say that is a pretty cool bike makes me want to make one :-)

Autonomous
04-29-2010, 04:24 PM
Hey Giz what do you think of this idea?

I'm kind of in a lull right now. I lost interest for a few days after the brakes arrived with one pad missing and the wrong steel was ordered. I was looking at my rims and began thinking what the heck am I going to put on these for tubes & tires? That hole for the stem looks pretty small, I guess I could drill it out if need be.

Anyway I digress (back to my idea) I was looking at the frame for one of those covered porch swing sets out in the yard and thinking that looks like good metal to build a frame out of. It's oval tubing and the legs have a curve to them just like the frame on a terra trike. The oval shape tubing is like an egg lying on its side starting where the rear forks would weld on just like a Terra Trike then run horizontally under the seat (a mesh seat) and past where the steering booms would weld on then curving upward just as the Terra Trike does. For steering tubes the Oval tubing could be welded on like an egg standing on end for strength or not I guess It wouldn’t really matter on that short a run and the design might flow better if I kept it the same. Anyway they would be welded on in the same manner as the Warrior plans describe with the head tubes welded on the ends. Now the Crank & bottom Bracket would be welded solid on the end of a piece of the very same oval tubing and slide in and out of the frame for adjustment with a couple of quick releases like those for holding a bicycle seat tube. I would achieve this by cutting a piece of the same tubing in two with a zip blade or cutting disk then welding it back together and grinding it smooth thus making it just small enough to slide in and out of the frame. It may need to be even smaller then a bit of plastic put around it like heat shrink tubing to make it slide in and out nicely and protect it from rust and corrosion. I thought if I needed a little more rigidity to the frame I'd just fill the main frame with expansion foam after all the welding is done before the final finishing touches.

What do you think so far?

GizDrak
04-29-2010, 04:36 PM
Sounds like you been thinking a lot! and have a pretty cool plan going there I am trying to be like any AZ member I say go for it! anything is worth a try what is the worsed that can happen you have to start over? with a better plan from what yo learned the first time!

Autonomous
04-29-2010, 04:59 PM
That's right I've already refined and changed it a couple times in my head since posting the idea. :)The tubing is 1/16 like the warrior plans call for so I think it would be strong enough.
I don't think I'm going to be able to get the square tubing the warrior plan calls for around here so I think I may just hit the Waste Watch drop off depot this weekend for metal.

Odd Man Out
04-29-2010, 05:36 PM
Hey Giz what do you think of this idea?

What do you think so far?

I think I may be a bit conceptually myopic -- I need pictures.

GizDrak
04-29-2010, 06:10 PM
Fedex lost my tires and tubes somewhere...... they delivered them to the wrong house...

Autonomous
04-29-2010, 06:38 PM
Giz Really? Lost em? WOW! that sucks! Odd Man Out I guess my description isn't very descriptive. LOL
Let’s just say it will look a lot like a Terra Trike and if you look at the open end of the tubing it is egg shaped.

I had re-arranged the tubes this winter to make a roof for the Koi pond throw a tarp over it.

Autonomous
04-29-2010, 11:18 PM
Hey Giz here's a quick, rough drawing of how I'm going to mount my front wheels. I'll weld a piece of 1/4" flat steel to the bottom of the fork stem then mount another piece of flat on the axle bolt, line up the center point and tack it in place. The top piece will have a hole drilled in it the same diameter as the fork stem with a bi-metal hole saw. It will be mounted over the top of the fork stem and held in place with the fork stem lock nut then welded to the flat piece that the wheel is mounted on. Not welded tight though it will be hinged on the top so by removing the fork stem lock nut and flipping up the top the stem can be pulled out the bottom of the head tube for servicing or greasing.

Being as my main frame is going to be curved like the Terra Trike Zoomer SL
http://www.terratrike.com/SL.php
the steering booms will already be on a nice angle that I will make sure is close to 80 degrees where the booms weld to the main frame. I will have little trouble adjusting the 80 degree caster if it's off a little I'll just have to adjust the angle of the rear forks before welding.

This way of mounting the front wheels allows me to lower the trike front end 2-3 inches

Odd Man Out
04-30-2010, 12:15 AM
This way of mounting the front wheels allows me to lower the trike front end 2-3 inches

Why do you want the front end lower?

Also guys, remember that there is a limit as to how low you can go or else your heels will hit the ground.

Autonomous
04-30-2010, 12:25 AM
I want my machine low & laid back not to mention this way is nicer for mounting the disk brake calipers, steering connections and allows me to use shorter axle bolts too. At least I think so, it's a matter of preference, Brad made a nice trike and an easy to understand set of plans which allows us to make our own modifications. I want a mesh seat too so lowering everything and putting a belly in the frame allows me to keep my seat low which keeps me low and the center of Mass low. I'm going to make my seat adjustable so I can I can sit up more or be near horizontal.

Odd Man Out
04-30-2010, 01:08 AM
Interesting --I look forward to seeing your design.

Brad's Warrior is 5 inches off the ground -- lowering it a couple inches may be unrealistic for anything but an indoor track. Otherwise might I suggest adding a skid plate to your design ?

GizDrak
04-30-2010, 08:34 AM
Cool idea Autonomous. I agree with Odd Man about lowering it so far but if you are having the crank set high up off the ground it should be all right. I am thinking after I finish my warrior of trying to make a KMX kart clone based off there venom. here a picture

http://www.kmxus.com/wp-content/gallery/venom/venom2.jpg

I like the design of the frame on the venom I also think I may go with a hub motor setup on it for some fun :-)

Autonomous
04-30-2010, 09:06 AM
That's a great design and I've put some thought into a KMX too. The front wheels are attached in the same manner I will use. Nice to have the lock nut on the outside of the hub. My frame won't be much if any lower then Brad's design. If you look at the Warrior you'll see the frame juts down lower then need be. The wheels weigh little to nothing (you bought a set) so I think keeping my head tubes low and rear forks sloping down instead of up much lower then the warrior and having a belly in the frame very similar to the KMX I will have the room to keep my adjustable mesh seat low to the road and the center of mass very low just like your KMX design. My bottom crank may not be quite as high as the KMX though but higher then the warrior. I like the warrior but I can't get the square tubing I want here so I'm going to use the plans to build something a little different.

Maybe I shouldn’t even be mentioning the Warrior (so as not to offend anyone) I'll just say I’m building a Terra Trike/KMX/Trike industry knockoff. LOL

Cheezy Rider
04-30-2010, 09:50 AM
That's a sharp looking bike in the pic.

Autonomous
04-30-2010, 10:04 AM
Yes very sharp indeed Cheezy. Your build must be near complete now eh?

Cheezy Rider
04-30-2010, 12:13 PM
No, I wish. I just came in for a breather. I just finished the last weld, putting the head tubes onto the cross arms. Getting ready to go to Home Depot to get some wood for the seat, spray adhesive, and then go get some foam. Then back home. Getting hot outside, supposed to hit 80 degreees today. Hope to get alot done today, because I'm committed to go cleanup some senior citizens yards tomorrow, so won't get much done tomorrow, and Sunday my son wants me to go over to his place for dinner. So the weekend may be a wash for the bike building.
I am going to use JoeBiker's cross arm template to cut the arms, so I hope that works out well. I am going to try it on some scrap piece first.
Sound like you are having a heck of a time with your deliveries.

I love the looks of that Venom. Back looks the same as the Warrior, just has the fork down below. Interesting design.

GizDrak
05-01-2010, 12:36 PM
I messed up the rear fork!!! so I have to start all over again :-( got to make a totally new fork now

savarin
05-01-2010, 07:33 PM
I messed up the rear fork!!! so I have to start all over again :-( got to make a totally new fork now

How? sure it cant be salvaged?

GizDrak
05-01-2010, 09:44 PM
I had to cut the drop offs off so I could respace them for my new wheel and I cut them to close and put a hole in the fork... so I was like okay I will just weld it shut that turned out to be a bad idea and just made the hole bigger....

No biggy I have just finished the new rear fork I am getting really good at making rear forks :-)

So tomorrow back to the build main frame is going to be finish tomorrow no matter what.

Autonomous
05-01-2010, 11:34 PM
Hey Giz! Sorry about the fork. What is that 3 or 4 now? That 1/16 stuff is like paper eh?
Did you order your bolts yet? I just found your message a few minutes ago. I had emailed Cheezy from the forum about bolts the other day but no reply. I likely screwed it up I never seem to be able to find my sent messages to see if they even went through.
I'd like for you or Cheezy to order me some bolts, nuts & lock nuts and I could send you a money order to cover the cost.

I arrived at the Waste Watch depot in my area at Noon today (closes at 12:30) so I only had a 1/2 hour but I got 3 sets of angle steal bed rails, another 2ft. piece of 1 inch angle steal, a piece of 3/8"X3"X20" long flat steal a 10ft. long 1/16 wall 1.25" diameter steel pole 4 old bicycles and the frame for one of those swivel, reclining leather chair & ottomans. The chair frame looks like it might work nice for my mesh seat. I chopped up most of the bikes for parts which wasn't much but it's a start anyway.

Ahh! Tell me, what does it mean when someone leaves a decapitated naked Barbie doll on your doorstep? I just now heard the car tires spinning as they pulled away looked out and found the Barbie on the doorstep. LMAO

Some young girls were (at least I'm assuming they were young) they were taping on the glass in the front door last week while I was on the sofa I went out the door and heard them talking and laughing behind the building across the street. So what is it a crush, stalking or worse? LOL

Cheezy Rider
05-02-2010, 01:04 AM
I didn't get any mail. Go into your options and make sure you have everything checked. Let me know what you want in the way of bolts. Either you could order them and have them sent to my address or I can order them. My friend got me an extra set. He got me black ones, and the galvanized ones match the wheels better. But I will use them somewhere. Let me know on the bolts. I just finished welding my head tubes to the cross tube, and made my seat. I am going to use JoeBiker's "cross tube template" on a scrap piece of steel to see if it fits okay. I drew the template up on a piece of paper just like his picture showed, then I created a PDF file out of it to exact scale, so now all I have to do is print off the PDF file and wrap that around the tube and cut. If you guys need one, send me a PM, and I'll send you the file.

Autonomous
05-02-2010, 09:32 AM
Ok Cheezy I just sent McMaster an email and the site advised me they would get back to me in 2 hours so I expect I should know more tomorrow.
By the way the bolts are 120mm long, the thread length is 46mm to 58.5 which if 46mm could have the tread ending 2mm before the nut touches the bearing. How did yours work out? Here's a copy of what I emailed McMaster.

I want to order Part Number: 91280A894
with a matching nut and lock nut. Could you put the order together for me?
I want to order 4 sets of each in total and and have them billed to my credit card if possible and shipped to a friend in MI who is going to forward them to me. These will be axle bolts for a recumbent trike, we are members of a builders group and I have contacted you before. You weren't interested in shipping to Canada.

Thank you

I should have just sent you a private message but when I clicked on your name I was offered the option of emailing you so I went that road instead. This is old hat to some of you but short of yahoo finance I didn't do much posting before this.

Cheezy Rider
05-02-2010, 04:41 PM
Mine worked out just perfect. But, with the locking nut, the end of bolt is just going to be flush with the top of the nut. If you would rather be safe in case of any modifications, I would go ahead with the 120mm, just make sure the shoulder of the bolt is the same as the one I ordered. Man my mind is going. I forget what length I got. I thought 110, I will check when I go back out in the garage. This cross tube thing stinks. Not sure the template will work or not till I cut up the cross tube. But excited to see one wheel standing up next to the bike.

Cheezy Rider
05-02-2010, 04:59 PM
Yep, mine was also 20mm x 120. They are zinc plated, looks better with the rims/hubs. The ones that my friend got me are black, but a stronger bolt, different material tensil strengh, but don't look good with hub.

Here's the same ones that I got. http://www.mcmaster.com/#91280a894/=6x2ezv

GizDrak
05-02-2010, 06:47 PM
Got the main frame all welded up today all went well! here are some pictures!!

I plan to order the bolts this week probably tomorrow. So let me know what we all work out on getting them too Autonomous.

Cheezy Rider
05-02-2010, 08:02 PM
Looks good. I gave up and came in for the day. I am looking at the position of the tubes, and just get in a daze. Looks good, don't look good, looks good enough, don't look good enough. I don't like to do things so so, so I sit there and just stare. Was close to putting a tack on the right side, then I backed out. Gonna drive me nuts, but I was getting all fired up when I set the one wheel up and stood back, gonna be sooo cool.
As for the bolts, it's up to you guys, Since I live closer to Autonomous, the postage would be somewhat cheaper.
Keep up the good work!

Autonomous
05-02-2010, 10:15 PM
Giz your trike is coming along nicely, everything looks straight & true. I have an email in to McMaster now and I'm hoping to hear back from them tomorrow. Cheezy is like 1053 miles closer to me then you so it might be easier for him to forward me the bolts, not that I don't appreciate the offer, I'll know more tomorrow.
Cheezy that machine is looking pretty cool with the front wheel setting up along side like that. Kind of gets the blood flowing doesn't it? At this rate you'll be painting it soon. I'll let you what I find out from McMaster but let's not worry about it concentrate on those two fine looking trikes taking shape in those pictures.

Autonomous
05-03-2010, 05:27 PM
Gizdrak I think I'll just pay the $8 per bolt here I've just about had it with McMaster they sent me the same reply as last time.

Thank you for your inquiry. Unfortunately, due to the ever increasing complexity of United States export regulations, McMaster-Carr will only process orders from a few long-established customers in Canada. We sincerely regret any inconvenience this causes you.

Cheezy Rider
05-03-2010, 05:29 PM
Yep looks good, but just can't seem to get the 80 degree caster angle. Can't seem to get closer than 70-75 degrees. Still playing with. If I put center of axle at the 17" mark, and put the cross tube right in front of the seat, and the wheel 90 degrees, that's all the closer I can seem to get.

GizDrak
05-03-2010, 05:47 PM
This is probably a stupid question but I want to get 20M hex nuts right? for some reason I am doubting they are the right size for the bolts...

Does this seem right

91280A894
Metric 8.8 Zinc-Pltd Steel Hex Head Cap Screw M20 Size, 120mm Length, 2.5mm Pitch, Partially Thrd

90591A230
Metric Zinc-Plated Steel Hex Nut Class 8, M20 Size, 2.5mm Pitch, 30mm W, 16mm H, packs of 10

90576A125
Metric Zinc-Plated Steel Nylon-Insert Locknut Class 8, M20 Size, 2.5mm Pitch, 30mm W, 20mm H, packs of 10

Autonomous
05-03-2010, 06:11 PM
Griz, Cheezy can help you out he ordered his not to long ago.

Cheezy Rider
05-03-2010, 06:26 PM
Yep, I just measured mine, height, width, etc. Those are what you want.
Just got my tube to 11-12 degrees, but wheel is at about 88 degrees and a little toed out at the bottom. Don't know if this is close enough or not, and the tire track will be 2" more than the plans call for.

GizDrak
05-03-2010, 07:21 PM
:-( another set back I do not have any good Bottom Brackets for the crank :-/ all the good ones I have are aluminum I have way to many aluminum bikes. :-/

graucho
05-03-2010, 08:34 PM
:-( another set back I do not have any good Bottom Brackets for the crank :-/ all the good ones I have are aluminum I have way to many aluminum bikes. :-/

GizDrak Looking GOOD!

I used to run into that aluminum parts problem quite often when looking for donors. Now I carry a small magnet in my change pocket so
I can pre-check the bikes that are hard to tell if there steel or not. Before I used to judge by the weight by lifting them, Or by the quality
of the weld before I would claim it. Have been fooled many times. :)

Autonomous
05-03-2010, 08:48 PM
Cheezy obviously I haven't done mine yet but I don't understand the trouble you are having. The only problem should be getting your steering tubes ground to fit the frame right.
Getting the wheel at 90 degrees, the track width to 30" and the 80 degree caster shouldn't be a problem.
Consider raising your frame a little & shortening your steering tube. As long as both steering booms are the same length you should be fine. The frame can be an inch higher of lower but you really should have the wheel at 90 degrees, well that's not true I've seen trikes with both wheels leaning in a little on the tops.
Just raise the frame a little to get the angles right then shorten the tube a little to get the wheel 15" from the center of frame.
If I remember correctly the booms are longer then need be so you can play around with the angles until you get it right then just shorten it. I'll have to read the plans again to be sure.

Autonomous
05-03-2010, 10:11 PM
Cheezy I'm probably talking out of my azz since I haven't done anything more then order parts so far but I think you should sit down somewhere quiet tonight and read through the plans starting at page 106 through to 118 then if you're still having trouble maybe ask Brad, Sarvarin or one of the other Gurus for advice. Someone who's actually done more then order parts. LOL

Cheezy Rider
05-03-2010, 11:37 PM
Yea maybe. I've got it close, but can't have everything on the money. If I get close to the 80 degree camber, then I am not at the 17" center axle mark, but close, and if I got those close, I am still 16" center to center. I haven't done any adjusting to the template.

savarin
05-04-2010, 03:22 AM
This is probably a stupid question but I want to get 20M hex nuts right? for some reason I am doubting they are the right size for the bolts...

Does this seem right

91280A894
Metric 8.8 Zinc-Pltd Steel Hex Head Cap Screw M20 Size, 120mm Length, 2.5mm Pitch, Partially Thrd

90591A230
Metric Zinc-Plated Steel Hex Nut Class 8, M20 Size, 2.5mm Pitch, 30mm W, 16mm H, packs of 10

90576A125
Metric Zinc-Plated Steel Nylon-Insert Locknut Class 8, M20 Size, 2.5mm Pitch, 30mm W, 20mm H, packs of 10


what are these for?
2.5mm pitch seems very coarse for axles I would assume the 20mm axle would be 1 or 1.5 mm pitch at most.
Whoops, I should have read the first item as its a cap screw so axles it is
all those nuts will fit those capscrews, 30mm W = distance from flat to flat
I still stand by my suggestion that 2.5mm is too coarse a thread. It will work ok but a fine thread has greater undo resistance and I think looks more professional.
Have a read of these
http://mdmetric.com/tech/tict.htm
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/metric-threads-d_777.html
if your stuck working out metric to imperial or vice versa download this little program, it brilliant.
http://joshmadison.com/software/convert-for-windows/

savarin
05-04-2010, 04:26 AM
Yea maybe. I've got it close, but can't have everything on the money. If I get close to the 80 degree camber, then I am not at the 17" center axle mark, but close, and if I got those close, I am still 16" center to center. I haven't done any adjusting to the template.

I havnt made the warrior cross boom yet but looking at the plans on page 113 I would align them with a length of 20mm allthread passing through the axle holes. Bolt these so the booms cannot spread apart but remain at the 30" track width. This will keep the steerer tubes at the correct angle. Cut the ends off the cross tubes if they overlap till they are just touching.
See my jig here http://forum.atomiczombie.com/showthread.php?t=1881&highlight=savarin
message 19
and http://forum.atomiczombie.com/showthread.php?t=1881&highlight=savarin&page=2
message 21
for an idea how it works.


Rest the ends of the allthread on supports the height of the radius of your wheels+tyres+ main frame thickness

Rest the main frame on a support at the correct height.

This should allow you to rest the middle of the cross booms on top of the main frame but they should still keep the correct orientation and can now be marked out for final cutting.


If the allthread wants to pass through the main frame then use wheel +tyre minus frame thickness and let the main frame rest on the cross boom instead.

Now check the 80degree castor angle, it should be close, 78 to 82 is no big deal, less than 78 and the steering will flop a bit, more than 82 and the steering will be a bit twitchier.

you can now move the cross boom assembly along the frame to its correct position and it should still all align up and keep the caster angle, the boom arms should still be angled forward and upwards.

Cut the ends of the boom arms according to the marking out, the template should work here but double check.
Now move the axle support to the correct height, ie wheel+tyre radius,
tack the boom arms in place.
It may not be possible to keep the allthread in place when you weld the cross booms to the main frame as it may want to pass through the frame.

I hope this all makes sense?

Autonomous
05-04-2010, 06:57 PM
Hey Giz! Why so quiet? Deep in thought or busy building?

GizDrak
05-05-2010, 09:41 AM
Hey Giz! Why so quiet? Deep in thought or busy building?


Been a busy week at work and at home have not worked on it at all this week :-/ still trying to figure out what I am going to do about the bottom bracket.... Also I was looking at the two bikes I was going to get the head tubs off of I do not think they will work one of the headsets is pretty rusted :-/ so now I got to find headsets and probably another set of head tubes.

Cheezy Rider
05-05-2010, 09:59 AM
Hey Giz, you could do like I ended up doing. I took one of the head tubes to the metal supplier and got me some pipe that I ended up using for the head tube. One, the bearing cups just fit into, and the other you need to bevel the inside of the pipe just a little. These are the two pipe dimensions that I got.
1 1/2 O.D. x .095 Wall
1 1/2 O.D. x .083 Wall

If you go to the supplier, take your bearing cups to make sure that they will fit though.

GizDrak
05-05-2010, 10:18 AM
I have to find some good bearing cups first :-/ going to look at my pile of bikes tonight probably and see if I can find some matching headsets.

GizDrak
05-07-2010, 09:04 AM
Hey Cheezy what size tubes did you buy for your front wheels? I ordered some 20x1.25-1.5 tubes for my wheels and they do not fit they look like they would fit a 24" wheel??? they say 20" right on the tube but there way to big.....

Cheezy Rider
05-07-2010, 11:53 AM
When I had bought the rims and tires from Utah Trikes, I also had them put in the box a set of tubes. I am looking at the reciept to see if it says, but it just gives the tire size of 20" x 1.5, and 2-CST Presta Tubes.
Those are the tires and tubes that I put on the wheels from TerraTrike.
Watch when you go to buy any material for those head tubes. I was making the USS piece yesterday and was cutting down an old headtube, and though I would just use some of the material that I had bought a couple of weeks ago for the same purpose, so I knocked out the bearing cups before I cut the head tube and tried them in the material (1 1/2) that I had told you about, and the cups were too big. Must be many sizes.

Here's a good article on Headset Sizes, etc. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Headset_(bicycle_part)

GizDrak
05-08-2010, 04:19 PM
Small update I went out and bought a bike at good will today that should have the bottom bracket I need so hopefully I will get that done soon. The tubes I had where the right size after putting air in them!! go figure lol.

Here are some pictures of the wheels all made up.

Cheezy Rider
05-08-2010, 04:58 PM
Lookin good. Glad you got a bike for your parts. Now maybe the fun can begin!!!

GizDrak
05-10-2010, 08:43 AM
Anyone know any tricks for removing rusted bearing cups on a bottom bracket? I have got my bottom bracket all up and cleaned but now I need to remove the old bearing cups and axle so I can replace it with one that is not all rusted any ideas how I can get the bearing cups off?? they will not move at all no matter how much force I put on them :-/

Radical Brad
05-10-2010, 12:51 PM
Being aware of reversed threads on the right side, a pipewrench might help you but could damage the threads. Blowtorch the BB shell as well, this makes it expand.

Brad

GizDrak
05-10-2010, 02:40 PM
I was thinking about Blowtorching it but was not sure that was good for it will give that a shot tonight thanks Brad :-)

ken will
05-10-2010, 05:55 PM
a little trick to remember when using heat. heat will expand both the bottom bracket and the bearing cups, if you then squirt a little oil on the cups they will cool off and shrink slightly.

same with nuts and bolts heat up the nut and cool off the bolt.

Autonomous
05-10-2010, 08:57 PM
Giz I traced a challenge trike frame from a photo on my computer screen a couple months back. Once on paper I used a protractor to get the angles and the tires sizes of 20" & 26" inches to guesstimate the measurements and scale it up to full size. You remember I told you I was setting up my steering like a KMX trike. I'm planning on using steering tubes similar to those on the Warrior and a challenge trike but steering like the KMX. I looked through a dozen pages of KMX photos before finding one with a straight on shot from the front. Then I began looking for a tool tonight to help me figure out the angles on my front end before I actually build it. I found a tool called Screen Protractor to get the angles and be able to figure out my center point on paper before cutting a single piece of steel.

As you can see by the photos I attached the protractor comes in handy.

GizDrak
05-11-2010, 04:15 PM
Heat made them bearing cups come right off! going to weld up the bottom bracket soon and then move on to the next step.

Lance Cross
05-11-2010, 05:08 PM
Anyone know any tricks for removing rusted bearing cups on a bottom bracket? I have got my bottom bracket all up and cleaned but now I need to remove the old bearing cups and axle so I can replace it with one that is not all rusted any ideas how I can get the bearing cups off?? they will not move at all no matter how much force I put on them :-/

Sheldon Brown's website has a tool made from nuts, bolts and washers that will remove them possibly using an impact gun or long bar with a socket, apparently it works on the reverse threads also, you just drive it from the other side... basically as the nut tightens the washers they get so tight they begin to turn the cups out, just be knowledgeable about which direction for the reverse threaded ones... although I've had at least one that had both RH threads.

Hope that helps, even though a bit late, and a good reminder / reference for the forum in the future. I believe they sell a tool that does this for about $40 that is made up of $2 worth of hardware.

-Lance

Autonomous
05-11-2010, 08:19 PM
Hey Giz wasn't it you who told me you bought a dual pull brake lever? Did you buy a right or left side lever? Brad's warrior has the brake handles turned in quite a bit but others like the Challenge or Terra Trike with under seat steering have the levers pointing straight forward about what I think I would like.

Being as the good side of the levers usually face up on a bike the good side of the lever would be facing in on the vertical end of my under seat handlebars instead of out so I would think if I wanted a dual pull on the left hand side of my trike handlebars (left is usually front brakes) I would order a right hand dual pull brake lever in order to have the good side facing out on the left side. Make any sense? LOL
I guess it's a matter of preference, perhaps it doesn't even matter! LOL

Cheezy Rider
05-24-2010, 12:34 AM
Hey Giz, what's up? Haven't heard from you lately, and haven't seen any posts. Hope all is well.

GizDrak
05-24-2010, 12:52 PM
I been side tracked for a couple of weeks now! sucks house repair and other projects got in the way! damn hail storm..... Anyway I hope to get back to work this week! head tubes are up next and I have to find some metal to make the tabs out of I do not have any 0.25" or 0.5" tick steel :-/

GizDrak
06-01-2010, 09:52 AM
I am getting back to work on my build will be posting some updated pictures soon. I started drilling the axle tabs yesterday hoping to finish them tonight then I am going to dig up some head tubes somewhere! and get them done!

Autonomous
06-01-2010, 10:03 AM
Glad to hear it Giz! Welcome back!

GizDrak
06-02-2010, 08:35 AM
The Tabs are kicking my ass :-/ I drilled them out to 1/2 inch and started filing them to get them to 20mm I filed one tab for a hour and it is still not even close to 20mm :-/ I was going to use out drill press at work to just drill them to 20mm but it does not have the right clamps to hold my tabs so that idea went out the window....

I am thinking of maybe making another set of tabs and getting a 3/4 hole size do you all think that will work? the metal for my tabs is 3/8 thick.

Autonomous
06-02-2010, 08:45 AM
If you don't have a 20mm bit 3/4" is the way to go! If you can't drill your existing tabs yourself could you take them to a machine shop? I mean how much would they charge to drill two holes? If your tabs are already attached to your fork stems it's a lot of work making new and starting over. It's a big jump from 1/2 to 20mm I don't know what kind of file you're using but you'd need a pretty course file. I bought a 10" ******* file with handle the other day for about $11
Haven't used it yet so I can't tell you how well it works. I'm still waiting on Nutty.com to ship my bolts. I told them not to ship until the nyloc nuts were in stock. That was over two weeks ago. They told me last thursday they would be in that day Friday at the latest. LOL

GizDrak
06-02-2010, 11:45 AM
I am going to start over on the tabs and cut them with a 3/4 hole saw this time. that will get me pretty close. I made a cutout pattern to follow this time which I have printed out. it is the exact size of the tabs and the exact hole size so I can use it to cut out the tabs faster.

Cheezy Rider
06-02-2010, 01:06 PM
Glad to see you back Giz. On the tab issue, I used a 1/2' bit, then a 5/8, 3/4, then finished off with the 20mm bit. I got my bit for, I think $16.00 here locally at a place called MSC Industrial Supply. It has a reduced shank, so you can use it in a 1/2" arbor. Sorry, remembered that you already tried using drill press at work. If you don't have a way of holding it on the drill press, I paid 12.00 for a drill press vise from HF, and I bolted that down to the drill press and worked good for me.

Odd Man Out
06-02-2010, 03:10 PM
Glad to see you back Giz. On the tab issue, I used a 1/2' bit, then a 5/8, 3/4, then finished off with the 20mm bit. I got my bit for, I think $16.00 here locally at a place called MSC Industrial Supply.

I think it is the same as this website -- a great one, you can get pretty much everything here:
www.mscdirect.com

Cheezy Rider
06-02-2010, 05:57 PM
Yep, that's the one. Good prices on most stuff. Thanks OMO, didn't think of giving the website.

GizDrak
06-05-2010, 07:10 PM
I am about to give up on this damn things :-( the tabs still are not done I tired making a new set today even went out and bought a 3/4" drill bit.... but now my drill seems to want to kill me..... it got stuck drilling the 1/2" hole and almost broke my wrist so I gave up at that point these tabs will be the end of me.....

John Lewis
06-05-2010, 10:41 PM
Giz Drak,

I take it you are using a hand held drill. Are you step drilling the holes? I find this works best, is easier and gives a better result. I usually start with 1/8" then go up to 1/4" then 3/8" 1/2" and so on. With a big hole like 3/4" you might need to make smaller steps as you approach it. The snag is you need quite a few drills.

Could you make the tabs. centre pop them for the hole and then take them to a machine shop or similar to be drilled in a drill press?
Another point. I find it easier to mark and drill holes then cut out the part from a larger piece. Its easier to hold that way.
I'm sure you'll get it if you keep at it. Time to step back, take a deep breath and go make a cup of coffee when it starts to bug you. :)

John

Autonomous
06-05-2010, 10:43 PM
Keep the chin up Giz! Sorry to hear of your trouble. It sounds like you're using a hand drill which you can as long as you make sure you get the hole straight. a crooked 20mm hole through a 1/2" tab will throw the angle of your bolt off then you'll end up filing it to straighten up the bolt and have a sloppy hole. That shouldn't be a big deal when your bolt is good and tight but a nice snug hole drilled with a drill press would be best. My holes are still only 1/2" as I just received a shipping notice for my 20mm bolts. I used a very, very cheap set of drill bits, oiled it well while drilling and stepped the hole size up a little at a time beginning with a 3/16" then 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 7/16" and finally 1/2" I took my time with each but they all cut like a hot knife through butter. If you have to make the jump from 1/2" to
3/4" with no other bits in-between make sure to you oil and take your time.

If you don't have a vice tack your tab to a longer piece of metal or angle iron lay it on the floor, put your foot on it and try to hold your drill at 90 degrees.

Hope this was some help, good luck.

savarin
06-05-2010, 10:51 PM
I know its not a quick fix but get a cheap drill press and a drill vice.
They aren't very expensive and are a life saver.
So handy for so many things.

Autonomous
06-05-2010, 10:52 PM
savarin I see you're viewing now, I have a question about that nice green trike you built.
how wide was the seat? Better yet how long was the base of the seat and back too

savarin
06-06-2010, 03:42 AM
savarin I see you're viewing now, I have a question about that nice green trike you built.
how wide was the seat? Better yet how long was the base of the seat and back too

Its 15.75" to the outside of the rails
The seat is 10.75" from the front to the back.
The back length is 18"
The vertical top section is 5"
The angle between the seat base and the back is 140 degrees \_
This is really laid back and you may not want it this low. Maybe 125 to 130 degrees or even less. Its all rather personal for comfort here.
The track width is 40.5 from outer edge of wheel hub to outer edge of wheel hub.
Length from rear axle to front axle is 40.5"

GizDrak
06-06-2010, 12:27 PM
Thanks guys for pushing me to keep going i am going to go buy a drill press vice today then try and drill the tabs on the drill press at work tomorrow. I also was drilling without oil which now i think was a bad idea so I will pick up some drilling oil too.

thanks all i am going to get passed this! hopefully with all my body parts working too!!!

Lance Cross
06-07-2010, 04:20 AM
Also a note about using a drill press, as your drill bits get larger, you need to turn the speed on them down. I ran into problems using bits larger than 3/8" in a cheapie 8" drill press since the pulleys didn't slow the drill down enough, there was excessive heat and some bit damage as I didn't use cutting fluid, good thing I can sharpen my own. Also on these cheapies, the larger drill bits have a tendency to stall the motor as they punch through the other side and take a bit too big a bite, as you get close to punching through, it's good to reduce the pressure on the bit to help defeat motor stalling if it gets caught.

Cheezy Rider
06-07-2010, 09:10 AM
All great ideas Giz, sorry to hear about all the frustration. I was at that point too, but finally got through it. Have patients, step back and take a deep breath, or take a break, and all will work out. The cheapie drill press IS worth the purchase. Have used it for other things, AND you can always turn around and sell it when you don't need it anymore. At least that's what I tell my wife when I need a new tool. Like I tell her, "can you do that with all the shoes that you buy?" NO RESPONSE

Savarin: That seat Auto is talking about, can you post a pic for me? I don't know what bike of yours he is talking about, and in need of a different style seat for my Warrior.

Autonomous
06-07-2010, 10:04 AM
Cheezy I was looking for the links to sarvarin's build but I've been fielding some phone calls so I'll post a pic of Sarvarin's green trike instead.

Cheezy Rider
06-07-2010, 10:38 AM
That don't look green! Is that the seat that you were talking about? I guess that's too late for me. I am going to try those plans for the other seat I have today. Cushion for bottom seat, and mesh frame for back. We'll see if I have time. Need to cut grass, have to go pick something up for new grandson (soon to be), and go get some shelves from wife's school and bring home. What's with all this other crap? I've got a bike to finish, don't anyone understand that? :jester:

Autonomous
06-07-2010, 10:43 AM
I tried to post the pic of the finished green trike but the forum told me I already posted it somewhere else then I got another phone call. I'll try again.

Autonomous
06-07-2010, 11:50 AM
Got another call and brother & sister in-law dropped in. I still can't post that pic it's already posted in bitex hubs I guess so here's a link to the links a Savarin post near half way down and the pic is just below it in my post.

http://forum.atomiczombie.com/showthread.php?t=3718&page=2

savarin
06-07-2010, 05:37 PM
Couldnt find any reference in your link so heres both of them
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s258/savarin48/recumbent/head%20rest/rest1.jpg
the latest including the head rest that will work on a warrior
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s258/savarin48/recumbent/bare-rest.jpg
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s258/savarin48/recumbent/trike2.jpg
the trike seat with integrated head rest

Autonomous
06-07-2010, 06:09 PM
Savarin What size and type of metal is the mesh seat made out of?

savarin
06-08-2010, 01:52 AM
Savarin What size and type of metal is the mesh seat made out of?

16mm thin wall 1.5mm mild steel tube zinc coated.
found in local hardware store in 2 metre lengths.
Nothing special at all.
The mesh is plastic coated pool furniture mesh.

GizDrak
06-08-2010, 08:38 AM
What is the deal with cutting oil.... I went to 3 stores yesterday and they all told me they where sold out.... lot of people are cutting metal around here I guess....

Autonomous
06-08-2010, 03:20 PM
Thanks Savarin I have some 3/4" outside dia. 1/16" wall black tubing in 36" and 72" lengths but it seems pretty soft and easy to bend. I was worried that it might bend just sitting on it.
You're a pretty big guy, did you have any trouble that way? I was thinking of using chrome molly bike tubing coming from the steering booms for the seat bottom and support it from the frame with the same. I'm not so worried about the back. Maybe I don't need to go that heavy?

Giz I just used regular motor oil I had in my garage to drill my holes.

imamedik
06-08-2010, 05:52 PM
What is the deal with cutting oil.... I went to 3 stores yesterday and they all told me they where sold out.... lot of people are cutting metal around here I guess....

Mineral oil works pretty good and is a lot cheaper

savarin
06-08-2010, 07:16 PM
Thanks Savarin I have some 3/4" outside dia. 1/16" wall black tubing in 36" and 72" lengths but it seems pretty soft and easy to bend. I was worried that it might bend just sitting on it.
You're a pretty big guy, did you have any trouble that way?

My first low rider used a similar seat but made from soft 12mm tube. Not a problem so I dont really see the need for chrome molly unless you have a very cheap source or are using the lightest materials possible all round in the construction. (I would love to)



Giz I just used regular motor oil I had in my garage to drill my holes.

any oil is better than none. cutting fluid / tap-magic is awesome and the difference is amazing.
for ally use kero or wd40. There is a heap of bad press regarding wd but trust me it works great for ally. Even charge up a file with it, better than chalk to stop pinning.
Dont forget to use oil on the hacksaw blade when cutting either, its easier.

Autonomous
06-11-2010, 11:52 AM
Thanks Savarin, no real source of Chrome Molly I just cut up some bikes with long tubes. Kind of heavy compared to the smaller tubing though. It's likely overkill I was just concerned that seat might bend after being welded on and leave me in a mess but if you say it worked for you it should for me. Yes I should get some good cutting oil if I'm going to do a little metal work but in a pinch I find anything is better then nothing.

GizDrak
06-12-2010, 09:21 PM
TABS!!!!!!!!!!!!! FREEDOM...!!!!!!!!!!!!

I finished the Tabs today!! After so much blood sweat and tears and..... my Angle Grinder motor burning up..... they are done!!!

First picture is the metal I used to make them I got for about $1 per plate and there where like 15 plates in the box :-).

Yeah my angle grinder motor burned up when cutting the tabs for the last time..... figures the tabs head to kill something and it was not going to be me so they went for my grinder....

I went out and got a new angle grinder a nice Hitachi one it cuts really nice!!! I would recommend it for $44 at lowes.... Anyway

I am going to get the head tubs done next hopefully I will not weld the tabs on to them wrong...... that would not be good....

anyway I off guys have a good weekend!!

Autonomous
06-14-2010, 09:24 AM
Glad to hear you've had success with your tabs. I can't for the life of me remember where you are in your build:confused: Just remember to only tack your tabs on until you are happy with them. I'll tell you a little story: I kinda of screwed up my center point angle a little bit and decided to cut my tab 95% of the way through where it joined to the fork stem and readjust the angle. I only tried one thank goodness! I tacked, re-cut, tapped with a hammer & re-adjust it a couple of times then I decided I should grind out the cut wider so I could fill the entire cut with weld I check the angle as I progressed but after I had the cut about 60% filled in/built up I continued welding ( spraying with a hose periodically, then ground it off "real pretty" held it up to the other and it had reverted back to the original angle. Filling in that last 40% of the cut pulled the tab right back to the exact orginal angle. So long story short on the suggestion of someone here on the forum I space the wheel from the tab with a couple of washers on each side. Center point angle is perfect now. My point is when it comes time to weld your tabs solid don't weld continuously and as the tab heats up cool it down in between welds. I would dip it in water for a few seconds or spray it with a hose and dab it with a damp rag to cool it the rest of the way. It's hard to start a good weld on wet metal.

GizDrak
06-19-2010, 06:42 PM
Got the head tubs done today minus welding on the tabs which I will take on soon!

Couple of questions. One head tube setup turned out to be just a little longer then the other will this be a problem?

Also there is extra space between the bearing cups and the top nut anything I can do to fix that??

the ends are about twice the height of the ones brad used not sure that is a real problem but if it is should I just cut them down a little?

One more question!! what grease should I pick up to regrease the ball bearings before I put them back in?

Thanks all!!

erebus
06-19-2010, 07:09 PM
You can get spacers for between the topnut and the locknut in a million different thicknesses and materials (carbon fiber!).
Just hit up your LBS. They will have a bunch.

imamedik
06-19-2010, 11:20 PM
Also there is extra space between the bearing cups and the top nut anything I can do to fix that??!

You can also use PVC Pipe cut to the needed size. :builder2:

GizDrak
06-21-2010, 10:26 AM
Thanks guys I will find me some spacers for that gap.

Radical Brad
06-21-2010, 12:20 PM
As long as your axles are at the same height, it will not matter. Actually, if you plan to run on a standard paved road a lot, put the taller side on the right. Since roads are curved for water drainage, this will work in your advantage. There was a company making trikes (can't remember which one), that actually made one side an inch taller than the other for this reason.

Brad

corkscrew
06-21-2010, 01:53 PM
One more question!! what grease should I pick up to regrease the ball bearings before I put them back in?


I use Park Bicycle Grease for all my bicycles and bicycle shaped objects. Got a tub of it for less than $10 at Niagra Cycle.

That being said, any marine grade trailer bearing grease will work fine and is usually cheaper. Check boat supply stores.

GizDrak
06-21-2010, 02:45 PM
Thanks for the Advice Brad :-). and thanks corkscrew I will pick some up :-)

GizDrak
06-25-2010, 10:43 PM
I just finished welding the Tabs to the Head Tubs! I think they came out perfect.... at lest I hope so! I going to clean them up tomorrow then cut the front booms! pictures tomorrow!

Cheezy Rider
06-26-2010, 10:38 AM
Good job Giz, glad to see things are moving along for ya. Won't be long! Pic, Pics, Pics.

GizDrak
06-26-2010, 01:13 PM
Hey Cheezy did you have to grind off the tips of the inside nuts on the axle so they would not hit the discs? mine are hitting and stopping the wheel from turning.... I had to grind the tips of the nuts off so the wheel would spin with out hitting the disc.

Cheezy Rider
06-26-2010, 01:55 PM
No, I didn't seem to have a problem with that. I did have a problem with one of the screws for the disc brakes hitting the disc, but just put a couple of washers on the bracket side and took care of that.

Autonomous
06-26-2010, 11:31 PM
I had the same problem Giz, I went the other way and filed off the inside of the brake disk so it would clear the nut. Stainless is easily filed. I finally got in touch with the machinist up the road tonight and he said he'd drill my 1/2 tabs to 20mm on Monday.
I actually pulled the tools out this evening and did a little work on beginnings of my mesh seat frame. Darn mosquitoes were eating me alive but I took little notice I was so glad to working on my trike again. I have some landlord crap to do tomorrow but I hope to get back at it and if I do I'll post a couple of pics.

Cheezy Rider
06-27-2010, 01:05 AM
Giz, yea I did have that problem also. Sorry, thought that you were talking about the length of the bolt. I guess I didn't read it well enough. I just had one corner hitting, just one the one wheel. Just rounded it off a little, and all was fine.

GizDrak
06-27-2010, 07:51 PM
Got the front booms done today. I am not totally sure they are going to work but we will find out soon when I go to put them on the main frame!

Also made the seat I think it came out okay. here some pictures

Cheezy Rider
06-27-2010, 10:04 PM
Giz, good job. Everything looks good. Seat looks good too. Friend of mine was talking to me earlier today, and again tonight. He's an engineer, and he's talking about us making one with front suspension, Indy style. He's all excited. Should be interesting with what he comes up with. Keep up the good work!!!

P.S. I used that template that is somewhere here on the AZ site, for the cross tubes. Just a little adjustment, and seemed to work out pretty good.

Autonomous
06-27-2010, 10:13 PM
Totally Awesome seat Giz! The steering booms look just as they should. I worked on my Trike for a while this afternoon but got rained out and forgot to take pictures. A lot of trial and error building & welding the pieces for my mesh seat bottom to my steering booms and main frame. Cutting and grinding pieces to fit just right, tacking them in place, measuring then breaking the weld and moving again, then checking the clearance with an old piece of chain run to the smallest cog on the rear cassette, then deciding I don’t like the angle and changing the entire setup again, tacking again, then taking it off again and marking and grinding a ¼” off to get the measurements right. LOL I have the bottom done and really like how it turned out. The back will recline and also adjust it will slide into the seat bottom and have 2.5” of adjustment and be held in place with pins.
All I need do is find the time to put a little work in every day or so.

Cheezy Rider
06-27-2010, 11:48 PM
Auto, got any pics of where you are in current build? Sounds interesting.

Autonomous
06-28-2010, 07:25 AM
Here you go Cheezy. You still have to use a little bit of imagination to see the big picture but it's coming along nicely, I think. LOL The top will be cut off and used to brace the back and the two pieces of solid rod will eventually be completely removed but for the time being I will cut the seat back to the proper width and weld the solid rod together again. Then the top piece and two other pieces will be cut to width and welded to the seat to both hold it together and fasten the adjustable support rods to which extend from the rear forks. Just like a terra trike. The base of the seat is made of 1" steel and measures 14.5" from side to side (inside measurement) The seat base is 14" long. My Driveway Rusted! Oh well I was planning on giving it a coat of sealer this year anyway. I built the place a dozen years ago. Wheeew! It still stinks here! I had a skunk in my trap this morning. He hadn't sprayed at all until I tried to let him/her out and the door slammed twice. LOL didn't get me though! $110.00 trap and no way to hold it open as you let your prey out. Skunks I'm not so worried about, it's the raccoons that are hoping to dine on my KOI that I'm after. You know in Japan they're near members of the family and are Willed to others when you pass on. Down south you have lots of Carp but these are a little nicer to look at and eat right out of your hand. I installed the pond to entertain my Mother 6-7 years ago when she couldn’t be alone at the cottage in the summer anymore.

Autonomous
06-28-2010, 08:35 AM
Cheezy or Giz could one of you give me the angle of the seat back on the Warrior?
Not sure if it's in the plans (I actually haven't read them)LOL Started to twice but was interrupted both times. I just jump to the couple of sections that pertained to my trike.
I know you have an angle finder Cheezy. The Warrior seat is more laid back then most and it would be nice to be able to shoot for something close to it although the trade off is my seat bottom is angled upward a little more then the Warrior which makes it appear the seat isn't reclined as much. (you can check that angle too if you like) I think it should be very comfortable but we'll see. I hope to get back to the build again soon.

P.S. You can PM me if you like so as not to give away any State Secrets. LOL

Cheezy Rider
06-28-2010, 11:20 AM
I will try to get that ASAP, getting ready to go out of state. Mom is having surgery Wed., so thought I would go visit beforehand. Bike looks good. I picked up a curved pipe like yours from the scrap yard last week. Don't know what for, but he gave it to me free. Had racoon problems under deck last year, and the year or two before that one ate a hole in my roof, crawled in, got stuck between two 2x4's and died (had to go in attic and pull it out), and one got in my chimney. Pesky critters.

PS That seat tube angle is on page 32, but I will check mine.

Autonomous
06-28-2010, 11:58 AM
Yes Cheezy I read that in the plans this morning but the angle is given in relation to the seat base. I would like to know what the seat angle is in relation to horizontal (level ground) with your angle finder. That is one problem I found with Brad's plans, the angles given are all in relation to the first piece of tubing and the second and so on. It's great for keeping the plans private and not easily copied or shared but hard for someone building a different trike who doesn't have one near by to look at or something to compare to. I guess I should have built one to plans first. LOL No actually once I got into my build with the help of you and other forum members, photos of other trikes off the internet, and a bit of trial and error my build has gone pretty well. I just haven't had the time to put into it is all.

Hope everything goes well for your MOM. I envy you, Ahhhh! To be able to visit then get back to your own life. LOL

P.S. I started this reply 30min. ago but was interrupted. LOL
And just disregard my post last week, I was having a bad day.

P.P.S except for the fork stems, head tubes and that old recliner seat frame my entire trike frame is made from an old deck swing that I replaced this spring. Well the drop outs are from an old mountain bike.

Autonomous
06-28-2010, 04:41 PM
Cheezy/Griz If you PM'd me those angles Cheezy I didn't get them. After hearing your trike on your YouTube video I finally decided today to order a couple of deluxe 13 tooth idlers from TerraTrike. http://www.terratrike.com/shop/accessories/idlers/prod_87.html
Actually it was just half an hour ago, they said they could stick them in an envelope and hopefully have them ready to ship tonight.

They were $20 a piece and the shipping to me was quoted as $14. but I hope it's $54. well spent. Just something for you to consider Giz.

Cheezy Rider
06-28-2010, 11:49 PM
Auto; sorry I didn't get to those angles. I will probably be gone about 3 days, and promise I will get them to you when I get home. Yes, it is nice to be able to go home.
Forget about last week, we all have those days, and your gets compounded daily, I can imagine your frustrations.

About those wheel noises. I read somewhere here on the site that a good trick to do, is to cut a piece of innertube and stretch it over and into the groove of the idler and turn the outside edges of the tube under the tube in the center of the groove. Supposedly this quiets the noise. Sounds reasonable.

And yes I agree with you about the angles in relation to horizontal.

Autonomous
06-29-2010, 08:29 AM
Giz/Cheezy I apologize for high jacking your thread. I guess I really should have started my own but for quite a while I had no clue how to and my question about doing so to AtomicZombie went unanswered. Someone eventually told me how, either you or Cheezy. I hope you're not offended or not posting because I am. Perhaps you're just busy, I don't know how it happens, I put up one post and next thing I've taken over. LOL

Never mind about the seat Cheezy it's not that important anyway, I just figured it was a matter of 2 secs. holding your angle finder on the seat. My seat will recline enough I was just curious as to how my seat would compare to the warrior.

I hadn't read about the inner tube trick but I actually had planned on doing just that and put 1 or 2 layers of tube over my pulleys. If you remember my pulleys were wide idler pulleys off a mower deck. Very good pulleys but I decided they were too wide, too ugly for such a pretty trike! LOL I'm very happy with how well my trike has turned out so far and it hasn't cost me much so I figured it was worth splurging on ascetics this time. These 13 tooth pulleys should really look nice. I asked Kelli at Terra Trike about bar end shifters but they were expensive ($80. for 8 cog and $100. for 9 cog) and the shipping was going to be $40-$50 if included with my idler wheels so now I have my thinking cap on trying to decide how to turn a set of old school friction type ten speed shifters into bar end shifters. A set of second hand bar end shifters I was watching on Ebay went last night for $63. Plus about $15 shipping. I don’t know if I want to pay $80 for shifters.
Terra Trike has sold a heck of a lot of those Rover trikes and that $40-$50 combined shipping for two little cogs and two little shifters makes me wonder if they aren't as willing to accommodate me as they were this spring? Shipping is a deal breaker when you live across the border. You remember that Giz from all the fuss over axle bolts. Well I better get going I have to meet the cable phone guys at a rental. I don't know if you've dealt with them much before but the can do more damage in 30 minutes then most tenants do in 3 years! LOL You can fuss over a drop ceiling when installing it making sure everything is just right but they'll just pull out $4 tile trying to find cables like it's a piece of trash, drill holes through your floor or outside walls without a thought. I had a satellite guy come to install a dish once for a tenant, he planned on drilling a hole through my outside vinyl, 1" Styrofoam, house wrap, through the sheathing, fibreglass insulation, vapour barrier and drywall. I told him there had to be 2"x4" put under the roof to fasten the dish to and the cables had to be run through the soffit over the outside wall top plate then run down through and inside wall and a proper face plate installed. He said he couldn't do that, so I replied leave the dish and I'll install it and the coaxial cable and you can come back later and tune it. He said he couldn't do that either, to which I replied "nice meeting you there's another dish company and the cable company we can call." He decided to leave the dish with me. LOL

It's not like I hate Cable/Dish guys I actually had them as commercial tenants for a couple of years, they also trashed the eve’s trough on my apt building 2.5 years ago when one of them fell off the roof. He had set up an extension ladder used to climb poles on top of a build up of ice against the eve’s trough about 7’ at the time, with 2/3rd’s of the ladder over the roof. He cut his finger in the fall, it's a wonder he didn't brake his neck and they never replaced the eve's trough.

GizDrak
06-29-2010, 12:35 PM
We are not mad about you posting in our threads Auto! it is a nice break from things reading about your build! I am glad it is going well! I been busy the last day or so that is why I have not gotten back to you! I do not have a angle finder so I do not think I could get you the angle you need :-/

Cheezy Rider
06-29-2010, 04:01 PM
Auto: no big deal about the threads. Nice to hear from you, and about your build. I WILL get you that angle, here in a couple of days.

Autonomous
06-29-2010, 09:11 PM
Glad to hear I didn't step on any toes guys. I'll be sure to post some more pics as soon as I get back at my build. SOON I HOPE! LOL

Autonomous
06-30-2010, 09:49 AM
Yahoo! Whoops! Did I just infringe on someone’s intellectual property rights?
I finally got my tabs drilled out! I put them right on the trike and let it roll down the driveway while I watched from the front and it looked real nice but those 2 bolts and 4 nuts must add at least 2 lbs to the trike. I'm wondering could I drill out the center of the bolts? Perhaps as much as a 1/2" right out of the center.
Took a while to drill the tabs out though, my machinist friend said he had a bit but I think he drilled it 3/4 perhaps less because he had to run around both tabs quite a few times with a Dermel like tool in order to get the bolts to fit. He spent a good 1/2 hour perhaps 3/4 chasing down a bit and reaming out the hole afterwards but didn't charge me and said anything I needed all I need do is ask.
84 years old this week, strutting around and stepping over things like he was 30!

Right now he is refurbishing a tire shredder for a local recycling company.

GizDrak
07-05-2010, 04:33 PM
I feel like I am having major problems with the Steering Booms I have cut the first one and it fits up to the frame with the wheel at 90 degree which seems to be perfect. then I turn the wheel in and that keeps the 90 degree angle. but when I turn the wheel out I loss the 90 degree angle.... it wants to twist the Steering Boom up to keep the wheel 90... but once it is welded on it will not be able to twist this seem to be a major problem and I am not sure what is wrong.... the Steering Boom or the head tub... I thought I had the center point on the head tubs but now I am not so sure....

I am getting frustrated I have been looking at it for hours now and can not seem to find a way to get the wheel to turn in and out and keep the 90 degree angle....

GreggyB
07-05-2010, 06:04 PM
The wheels will stay vertical when straight ahead, but the inner wheel in a tight turn will appear to fall over and back.

This is because of the castor and centre point steering.

Study the photos of completed trikes when the wheels are turned and your trike should mimic this.

Look at the photos of my roadkill trike, it has the same effect.

This is fine provided both left and right wheels have the same but mirrored angles.

GreggyB
07-05-2010, 06:31 PM
My roadkill trike is here

http://forum.atomiczombie.com/showthread.php?t=4248

My trike is slightly different in the fact that centre point steering is effected by angling out my front wheels to the side as well as canting the king pin over toward the tyre contact patch.

But castor is achieved the same way as on the Warrior design

It has the same effect, but my front wheels more dramatically show what I think you are experiencing I hope.

Autonomous
07-06-2010, 01:48 AM
Hey Giz I thought there had to be something wrong too when I was at the boom stage. At first I thought it was because my center point steering was off a little so I spaced each wheel with a couple of washers. Believe me I was as concerned as you are now I noticed just like you that when I turned the wheel it seemed to try to twist the boom right out of my hand but like Greggy said it's all good. If your center point steering is lined up your wheel is at 90 degrees when facing forward and you have your 80 degree caster you're good to go. My trike still has no steering linkages but I noticed on the weekend when I was showing it to my brother that turning one wheel made the other wheel turn the same (just sitting there not even moving) and a month ago I led the trike down the road by the main frame with no steering linkage and it would drive straight and true which ever way I led it. Hope this soothes your nerves a little.

When you turn your wheel out it leans like the front wheel on a bicycle, kinda like the articulated steering on a Road Grader.

I drilled a hole through my boom today welded in a piece of of head tube then welded on the bearing cups, races what ever the heck their called, LOL cut a short, short fork stem and I put it together, I'll run out and take a picture. Don't know if I have time to attach it to this reply though.

Autonomous
07-06-2010, 02:10 AM
The chrome cap will likely be replaced with a single threaded black washer/locking washer then some sort of black rubber plug. Trying to keep it as low as possible as not to contact my Azz. LOL If I remember correctly from earlier today there was 2 3/8" clearance from the top of the chrome cap to the top of the seat frame.

GizDrak
07-06-2010, 08:28 AM
Thanks guys I think I understand now and will give me the guts to go forward and weld them booms on! :-)

GizDrak
07-11-2010, 01:01 PM
I think i am going to give up on my warrior it is just one thing after another that keeps going wrong I went to weld the steering booms on and after i tack welded them down I put the bike on all 3 wheels and noticed that the main frame is badly twisted it is not welded straight at all..... only way i could fix it is by starting all over again.... re-welding everything but the head tubs..... at this point I just do not feel like starting all over again just to continue the build.... maybe I will just start a new project with another bike and then do the warrior some other time......

jimFPU
07-11-2010, 02:52 PM
Dude, I know that feeling...the M2 I built for my son looks like it was run over by a truck, but he loves it!!

Autonomous
07-13-2010, 11:07 PM
Giz Why don't you post a few pics of the twists you are referring to and maybe we can come up with a solution. Usually cutting into the frame with your 4.5 angle grinder and cutting wheel on the crown side of a bad joint will allow you to bend it back and re-weld straight.

I would have spoken up sooner but I thought one of the Gurus might have offered you some help and I'm sure they will chime in if you put up some pics and solve your problem in short order.

Autonomous
07-14-2010, 07:52 PM
Look! My trike is twisted too!

Autonomous
07-14-2010, 09:04 PM
Here's a couple more shots of my twisted frame.

The rear tire rests on the left front tire and right side of the seat for a very good reason.
Why you ask? Because through trial and error I discovered that when the rear wheel fell between the two front wheels the rim banged on the top of the fork stems/head tubes or the seat frame. I found this to be the best resting point for my situation, my trike design but someone else my have a different result in their own situation, their own trike design.

Oh! and the hinge isn't quite finished yet it still has to be reinforced. It's actually 2 hinges welded together.

Cheezy Rider
07-25-2010, 12:11 PM
Hey guys, glad to be back. Giz: don't give up. Take a break, step back, and think about what you can do. Have a beer while you're doing that. I know it's hard and very frustrating at times (most of em), I didn't think I could do it either. Give yourself a rest. Look at Auto's bike, it looks like he ran into a wall. Looking good Auto, just had to throw that in there. Slick idea. I am still working on my Maruader, just changed the plans a bit, and raised the frame to a different angle, and working on putting gears on both sides of the rear bottom bracket. Bike will have two sets of chains. I took a break from my build for the last 2 1/2 weeks, because I am now officially a first time Grandpa.
Actually didn't know whether I could do another Warrior, and wanted to have one for my wife, so found a tadpole down in southern Mississippi, and went down and bought it for her. It's a Terratrike Cruiser. I had found another guy that had one for $500., but got ahold of him about a day too late.

DON'T GIVE UP GIZ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

PeterT
07-25-2010, 06:46 PM
I would have spoken up sooner but I thought one of the Gurus might have offered you some help and I'm sure they will chime in if you put up some pics and solve your problem in short order.

One of the best way for others to become a 'guru' is to remain silent, and let them sort out problems themselves, and congratulate them when they have solved the problem their own unique way!

And then present their solution and their pics of the processes for all to enjoy.

PeterT

Autonomous
07-29-2010, 12:04 PM
Thanks Cheezy congrats on being a Grampa!
I’m pretty happy with how the trike folds. The hinge still needs to be reinforced and I’m hoping to get a friend to turn down a fork stem for my under seat steering to fit an aluminium gooseneck. Maybe this weekend. Truth is I haven’t even been putting any thought into the trike lately (let alone work) which is unusual for me. Usually no matter what I’m doing new ideas on how to improve the design come to me on a daily basis. Mind you I never said they were all good ideas. LOL

Good luck with your Maruader

Cheezy Rider
07-30-2010, 02:50 PM
Yea, I need to get back to the building. I need to find a left handed front derailer. I don't know if they even exist. I will call the guy that I just bought the Terratrike from tonight, since he said that he had been a bike mechanic. Maybe he'll know. I discussed my build and design that I was wanting to try with him, and he thought that it sounded interesting. Just came inside to have a beer and cool off. Cut fork off of 20" bike to use on the Marauder. I told wife that I have been away from the building (Marauder) too long, because last time I worked on it, I had it all shiney and now surface rust has started because I haven't finished it. So, while she's off spending my money (OOPS, I mean our money) getting her hair done, I'm messin with the bike.

GIZ ---- what's up? Haven't heard anything about the bike. Did ya take a short break?

Uh oh, beer's gone, talk to ya later.

savarin
07-30-2010, 10:20 PM
Yea, I need to get back to the building. I need to find a left handed front derailer. I don't know if they even exist.


You are in the right place. To the best of my knowledge....... Que weird sounds....
"There is only one!"
I couldnt find one so I made one. It worked perfectly with no problems.
I believe I originally wrote it up in the old forum but as thats gone here is a quick one.

Cut the side plates off the original derailleur leaving enough of a stub to weld the new plates to.
Cut the two new plates from some thin sheet steel using the old plates as a pattern the other way round.
Use a short length of round bar with the edge gently radiused smooth.
Use this as a stake in the vise to hammer the edge of the plates over so they do not present a sharp adge to the chain and give a bit more stability to the plate (stop it flexing). Check the old plates to see how much. A bit of heat (cherry red) and its soft and easy.
When you have them to the shape desired just weld them back in place and bolt the bottom end back with a spacer.
Take all the measurements from the original derailleur and all should be well.
Hopefully the following photos should make it all clear.
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s258/savarin48/derailleur/der3.jpg
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s258/savarin48/derailleur/der2.jpg
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s258/savarin48/derailleur/der1.jpg

As usual, any questions etc etc.
Should take about 3 hours in total.

Cheezy Rider
07-31-2010, 11:01 AM
Don't know if I can do something that thin. I know I will blow a hole through it. I will check it out though. If not maybe see if someone with better welding ability do it at a shop or something.

SirJoey
07-31-2010, 11:23 AM
You are in the right place. To the best of my knowledge....... Que weird sounds....
"There is only one!"
I'd say ur right, Charles. Certainly the only one I'VE ever seen. I'm not sure, but it
seems to me I stumbled across ur pics of that thing way back before I even joined AZ,
which would've been over 3 years ago.

Always thought that was one of the most clever & ingenious hacks I've ever seen. :punk:


http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif
(Geezer & Bent Enthusiast At Large)

savarin
07-31-2010, 08:55 PM
I'm not sure, but it
seems to me I stumbled across ur pics of that thing way back before I even joined AZ,
which would've been over 3 years ago.




WOW! was it that long ago? Dont time fly, I didnt realise I was using that lowrider for that long a time. The poor thing is sitting there rusty and forlorn just waiting for me to cut it up.
The original images and info were on my own website (now defunct as my isp wants fees for a personal web site)
I took those pics yesterday which is why they are a bit rusty, all those white spots are sawdust:rolleyes4:

SirJoey
08-01-2010, 01:11 PM
WOW! was it that long ago? Dont time fly...Yep, U know wot they say,
"Life is like a roll of toilet paper.
The closer U get to the end, the faster it goes!" :eek:


http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif
(Geezer & Bent Enthusiast At Large)

Cheezy Rider
08-11-2010, 02:18 PM
Giz, get that bike moving along? Haven't seen anything of you, or Autonomous. I finally got back from down south. Ended up finding a used Terratrike Cruiser, and got it for the wife. I've put about 100 miles on it in the last two weeks. Never thought that I would ride that far, but that seems to be totalling up. Hope you got back to the bike build. I haven't done much with my Marauder lately. Got the whole frame up to welding up the head tube, to the last tube up front. Hope everyone is doing fine. Just summer I guess, and everyone is out enjoying the weather.

GizDrak
08-13-2010, 09:00 AM
Hey Cheezy Welcome back.

I have not worked on my bike in sometime. A lot of personally stuff going on. My fiancee has a lot of medical problem going on right now so we are in and out of the doctor a lot. My job has been overly busy lately so I have not really wanted to work on my bike after work. Plus it is extremely hot in my work area so I avoid it lol.

I do plan to finish my warrior but it may be a little while before I make it back to it.

Glad you are having a good time riding your bike man always cool and picking up that terratrike most have been fun!

I am sure your Marauder is going to go out great like your warrior! and I am sure you will have it done in no time once you get back in to it!

Well I am off! you all have a good one!!

Cheezy Rider
08-16-2010, 03:54 PM
Hope things work out for your fiancee healthwise. You gotta take care of yourselves first, before your bike project. Been hot here too. Too hot to even ride. Well, pop in every now and then and let us know how things are going. I'll keep you and your soon-to-be in my prayers.
Later

GizDrak
09-05-2010, 04:09 PM
My fiancee is doing better we finely got a doctor that thinks he knows what is wrong with her! after 8 months this is great news!! seems she has reactive arthritis which sucks trust me on that one! to be only 20 and have arthritis that makes it so you can almost not walk is no fun I feel bad for her daily :-/. But the good news is they are starting to treat it and it looks to be working she is slowly getting better! the other good news is a lot of people make a full recovery from it with in a year!

anyway! I am been thinking about my warrior lately and want to get back to the hacking and get it done! so I am back! I left off trying to weld my steering booms to my frame and running in to some problem with that but. Been so long sense I looked it it do not really remember what! I do remember I was planning on building a jig to hold the front wheels at 90 degrees when I welded them to the frame so that is where I am going to start!

See you all around!

Cheezy Rider
09-05-2010, 11:49 PM
Glad to see you're back. Hope your fiancee gets better. I will keep her in my prayers. I just started to get back to my Marauder build today. Been awhile. I recently bought a couple of Terratrikes, and have put about 200 miles on them since about the beginning of July. They are great, but my Warrior that I finished in June has got it beat big time on turning radius. Will probably continue starting to install last tube on Marauder. The front tube that holds the front fork
Well, keep us informed on the build, and of course your fiancee's progress. Have faith, and it will work out.

Autonomous
09-06-2010, 09:01 AM
Giz it's great to hear from you again! I'm so sorry for your fiancée’s illness, I looked up Reactive Arthritis on Wikipedia and it's real nasty. Give her my best and please tell her that all your friends here wish her a full and speedy recovery.

To properly attach the booms: If you have 20mm hubs first thing you'll need is a 36" length of 3/4" threaded rod and at least four nuts.(if you’re careful and don’t damage the rod you could actually return it later) of course it would come in handy for your next project. I used a piece of ½” rod and only because I had already made spacers for my wheels as it took for ever to get my 20mm bolts. It still didn’t hold the wheels true and you would be much better off with the ¾” heck you're in the States maybe you could get 20mm rod! Take the threaded rod and thread two nuts on, one on each end at least 4" in. Then slide on the wheels and another nut on each end. Then adjust the wheels until the measurement from the center of each tire equals the track you want for your trike and crank the nuts tight. Mine was 29 1/2" on center.
I made a jig with 4 pieces of 2"X4" lumber about 6" longer then the diameter of my front wheels and 4 pieces 1"X4" drywall strapping two of them about 12" longer then the width of the track I wanted for my trike and two about 24" long that are screwed to the inside of the jig on an 80 degree angle to line up the caster angle.
I measured the width of my front tire/rim and subtracted the width of one tire/rim from the track I wanted then used that measurement and squared up two pieces of 2X4 that will parallel the wheels on the inside and 1 piece of strapping to go across the front then put the wheels on the axle in place to figure out where to place the rear strapping to hold the wheel tight and true in the jig. Square up the second piece of strapping behind the wheels then place the other pieces of 2X4 on the outside of each wheel and use C clamps to snug them up a little against the wheels. Not so tight as to clamp them in place, I could pull my wheels out and push them back in, screw the strapping down to the 2X4 remember to check the inside 2X4's and strapping with a square a few times to make sure it stays square. I used an angle finder held against the head tube at 80 degrees and lined up two short pieces of strapping on the inside of the jig to sight the caster angle at a glance during the process of attaching the booms then checked it occasionally with the angle finder to be sure.
Oh heck I think I have the jig out back I'll take a picture and I think I have a pic of it during the build too. I'll include both.
Holy Crap that was a lot of typing! And the racking of this tired old brain to remember it all was no small task either! LOL
Welcome back.

P.S. Oh and you may notice from the picture that I had to cut the center out of my threaded rod because my boom was in the way. I looked at some pics of the Warrior but I can't tell if the threaded rod will clear the boom in your case. Maybe someone else can clear this up for you before you buy the threaded rod.

GizDrak
09-06-2010, 12:05 PM
Thanks Auto! that is really helpful place for me to start need to build me a nice jig to hold everything in place!

and I will let her know thanks guys!

Autonomous
09-06-2010, 10:22 PM
I just realized I may have posted too much free info this morning but I assure you all I was only trying to help Giz get off on the right foot restarting his build since he was having some difficulties when he decided to take a break. The directions I gave aren't those given in the warrior plans but "Kat or Brad" if you feel my post was too revealing you're welcome to delete it :oops: and I can resend a private message to Giz.

Autonomous
09-07-2010, 10:49 AM
Giz I sent you a private message explaining why I cut the center out of my threaded rod instead of removing it and how you can use this method to attach your booms even if the rod and your frame conflict. I didn't seem to be able to attach a photo to the message so I'm posting it here. It isn't much I threw it together on MS Paint in about 30 seconds. LOL

P.S. In the Private message I wrote boom at the beginning when I meant frame.
If you have any trouble I'd be glad to help.

Autonomous
09-07-2010, 11:07 AM
Oh and in my earlier instructions I forgot to mention your booms have to be installed on the axle before the wheels but after the first two nuts so you'll need 6 3/4" nuts. 1 to hold each axle tab tight to the wheel. I told you I had a tired old brain. LOL The crude drawing should clear it up but I'm sure you quickly understood I left out the two most important parts. Isn't it funny how your brain knows the plan but doesn't transfer it to your typing fingers and you don't even notice you left it out until later.

Re-Builder
11-25-2010, 01:19 PM
Hope you don't mind a late comer to this thread. I too hope and pray that your fiancee is on the mend, GizDrak. It is a hard thing to go thru- but stick with her. If you don"t mind Autonomous, i just might steal the 3/4" rod idea to line up things on the warrior build. Great to see how encouraging you all are to others. Keep it up.