Delta Hauler

[TheKid]

As I said earlier, the DW was way too low for me. I cut the rear end off including the seat tube, made it a bit longer, and set it at about 15 degrees instead of 45 degrees. I'll still have to raise the seat a little. The frame I'm making for the flat bed is almost done. The flatbed will be in 2 pieces and hinged. The rear half will serve as a trunk lid. I'm also redoing the front end to get the head tube angle right this time, and to level out the main boom a bit. I should be done with those mods tomorrow, and have some pics.

[AtomicZombie]

Almost sounds like the trike I am working on right now called the "lode Runner". Looking forward to the photos.

Brad

[TheKid]

After seeing the old LWB tadpole you built compared to my plans for a meridian tadpole, I wouldn't doubt that they're similar. Here are some links to refresh your memory:

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z66/edpol_photos/Meridian%20Tadpole/000_0070.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z66/edpol_photos/Meridian%20Tadpole/000_0068.jpg

I originally intended to modify the DW into a single KC, but since I already had the rear, there was no point. I tried it first with the original seatpost in a horizontal position, but the main would be too high to step over. What I ended up with was a good compromise between rebuilding the whole trike and redesigning with the parts I have on hand.

[AtomicZombie]

Ah yes, the drawing that looked like my original Marauder trike.

The Lode runner will be made of 2 inch 1/16 wall tubing. It will have a height similar to Kyoto, but a rear much like the DeltaWolf. Steering will be under seat, and the wheels are all 20 inch. Cargo capacity will be riders up to 400 pounds PLUS an extra 200 pounds or more in the trunk.

I also have a an inline tandem version in the works that is identical besides the ability to have two riders. Drive train will feature fully independant gear systems for each rider.

Brad

[TheKid]

I'm still using 1 1/2". I don't plan on hauling anything over 50 lbs., so it should be sturdy enough. Basically, I raised the boom so it's 16" at the BB and 13" just in front of the seat. That makes mounting easy. I raised the seat another 3 1/2" so it's easy to sit and get up. I'm using cruiser bars for the USS so I won't have to lift my legs over the bars. Just straddle the boom and sit, just like I do on the Streetfox. To keep the tie rod out of the way when getting on and off, it will be bolted to a tab on the bars, and go to the fork. To keep the chain out of the way, the pulley will be under the seat. The frame for the platform will be an intregal part of bracing the rear end assembly. Behind the axle, there'll be a small trunk under the platform, and if I can make it work, a smaller box behind the seat for carrying tools, extra tubes, etc. The seat hinges forward, so that will be the access to the tool box. I have some floatation foam for making floating docks that's 8" thick. If I hollow out a smal piece, say 12" x 15 or 18", the hollow end will face the back of the seat, which will serve as the cover. The wheels are all 26", since that's what I have on hand. The wheels will have 3/4" spacers to widen the track a little, due to the higher center of gravity. I noticed on the Lightfoot that the seat height on the Greenway is 21", and the total width is 32 1/2". The track is about 30". My seat will be a little lower than theirs, and my track will be 31", so it shouldn't be too tippy. I still have to weld the seat tubes on, then the platform frame. The front end is done. I was hoping to have some pics today, but that probably won't happen. I got no sleep last night, and I'm pushing myself to do as much as I could without making mistakes. That means I'm working even slower than normal. If I just get the seat tubes welded I'll be a happy camper.

[AtomicZombie]

I was going to post my drawing, but I actually made enough of the trike tonight to post an actual progress photo...

http://forum.atomiczombie.com/showthread.php?p=2276#post2276

Brad

[TheKid]

I put my concept drawings I made last year for a single KC in the Difference thread.

[TheKid]

If the weather clears up, I'll be able to continue today. I want to be able to switch to 20" wheels, but I don't like to put deraillers that low. A mid drive shaft will do the trick. The 7 speed freewheel will go under the seat on the right side, which will bring the shaft 13 1/2" off the ground. For the right side, I have a 24 tooth sprocket designed to fit on a 5/8" shaft. It was one of the items given to me by my LWB owner. Two pieces of 3/4 OD x 5/8 ID pipe will fit snugly between the bearings. On the non drive side, I'll make a disk adapter and weld it to the pipe. The axle will slide into the pipe, and similar to Richie Rich's method, it will be pinned. The drive side will get the same treatment, but there will also be a 24 tooth sprocket welded to the pipe. I'm also going to build a suspension front end for 20" wheels that will be interchangeable with the 26" front fork. I'll use the interchangeable design I came up with last summer that uses OSS for both the two wheel front and the single wheel front, so My USS will eventually be scrapped. The good part is that I can build all the addons separately without loss of use of the trike. And mark my words, I'll find a use for the head tube for the USS when it's no longer needed.

[TheKid]

Ixnay on the 20" wheels. I'm just going to keep the 26 inchers in the rear. The front is another story. I'm using an old 3 speed fork because it's curved, and will give me the correct trail, and from what I've read, most manufacturers of hub motors discourage the use of suspension forks. The problem is, the trike is over 9' long, and that's without the flatbed. A 20" straight fork with a steep head angle will shorten it almost a foot. I don't know how much it will reduce the turning radius, but I'll do a small scale mockup to see if it warrants changing. With the straight suspension fork, there was significant wheel flop, which made the trike a little hard to control, and on sharp turns, the trike actually lowered, giving a sinking feeling. There was over 3" of trail, way too much for my liking.
The fork from the 3 speed road bike makes for a much more comfortable ride, even without the suspension, and it handles like a dream. If I'm able to work on it tomorrow, I'll weld on the tabs for the flatbed, and prime it.

[TheKid]

A 20" wheel on the old 26" fork doesn't look so terrible, so I'm installing a 20" wheel with a drum brake hub until I get the hub motor. I can cut 6" off the front tube, which will shorten the trike about 8". I also discovered that I'll be able to use direct steering, due to the seat being higher than on a normal DW. There's little tiller effect, so it should work nicely. Now all I need is the pain and stiffness to subside so I can get to work. I'll need nice dry weather for that, and today's weather doesn't fit in that category.