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rsisson
06-22-2008, 10:36 AM
Your propaganda for the Loadrunner says :

"All parts are common cycle parts with the exception of the small machined freehub adapter"

Does this mean the Loadrunner does not use the handmade wheelhubs ?

I don't think you can use a hub-motor in the rear due to the "live axles", it would have to be the front... A motor on one wheel in the rear may give you torque steer problems, and with only one wheel in the front it could be strong...especially on hills. A powerful Hub-motor on the front would work fine, and there are some brutes of motors available... they need wide forks, but they are out there..,

When can we order plans ?

Bob

AtomicZombie
06-22-2008, 12:46 PM
A few answers...

Those hand made wheelhubs in the link "flanges from thin air" were actually made for the LodeRunner. The only machined part is the freehub adapter.

In the plans, I added an optional left side BMX freehub for an optional low power assist motor. You could also adapt one of the rear shafts for a pulley or large sprocket.

There would be almost zero torque steer if you powered one of the rear wheels - I have doon this on trikes before, even wider than this.

A front hub motor is certainly the best option. They cost less, run smooth, are ultra efficient, and do not require modified forks.

Plans will be online in a day or two.

Brad

rsisson
06-22-2008, 05:46 PM
I don't know what hub-motor you have been using, but the 2.4KW Hub motor I have been using will skid the front wheels (plural) of my QUAD sideways trying to go up hill.

http://www.electricrider.com/crystalyte/phoenix.htm

I use Electric Rider's Phoenix "Racer" motor (48V 50A) currently, and that is their high-speed low(er) torque version.. It will take my Quad, me and the groceries up to ~30 Mph pretty quickly... Starting up on a hill, if I don't also pedal it will be happy to try to twist me sideways...

I am planning to use (and already have in house) their slightly slower but more torque "Brute" version to lower the current requirements at startup... I keep tripping my 60A breaker on startup on hills...

I know some of the issue is the flexability of my PVC quad... but the Phoenix motor puts out some serious torque as well...

For me, powering the front is the ONLY way to go... but it does require forks that don't "taper" as it requires 4" well up the froks for clearance...

Bob

AtomicZombie
06-22-2008, 05:57 PM
Yes, the Brute is a serious beast - I am getting one soon.

Are you really running that motor on the PVC car!?!?!

......... Woa.

Yes, I would imagine there will be "some" flex with that motor on that frame.

When I get the brute, I will probably run it at 48 volts on a 20 inch wheel.

Brad

rsisson
06-22-2008, 06:26 PM
Yup...It cruses at 25mph very nicely around 20A... I get a bit over 1.25 miles per Ahr... and that is they way I drive (lead foot..oops I mean hand)

Lots of aerodynamic drag... and I am sure some scrub drag...

But people give it space and it is fun to drive to Lowes, Safeway, Giant, Whole Foods and Harris Teeter... All of the local places that would otherwise mean a car trip because of 2-3 bags worth...

Bob

AtomicZombie
06-22-2008, 08:09 PM
Great stuff. Any shots of the unit under motor power?

Brad

rsisson
06-22-2008, 11:48 PM
My wife took some video of my trip to a local bike store for parts and followed me around a bit, so here are some links to videos…

Sidekick 1:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=__-8Bi76AMQ

Sidekick 2:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDN4DvuvEHk



These were picked up by some other feeds so there are a lot of copies around...

AtomicZombie
06-23-2008, 01:23 AM
Great! You really motor down that hill.

Brad

TheKid
06-23-2008, 02:27 AM
Have you tried it on the rear? The geometry on the AS quads aren't exactly conducive to running a hub motor on the front, let alone one that powerful. If you used the 1/4" aluminum stabilizer rod supplied with the kit, it doesn't even help without a motor on the front. You'd be better off using two lengths of 3/4" conduit, across the tops and bottoms of the steering tees. If you used the 1/4" aluminum bolts for the kingpins, it's surprising that the caps on the tees weren't shattered with all that weight, or the pins haven't bent severely.