Spinner Template

[TheKid]

I just finished a new template for my spinners. This time it's one piece instead of having to cut and weld 6 pieces. Now all I have to do is wake up with enough daylight to finish the wheels.

128

[TheKid]

Luckily I had some 5" wide steel to make the spinners. I'll also be able to weld them right to the axles, because they won't interfere with the shot spokes when assembling the wheel. After welding them to the axles, I'll weld a 1 1/2" round x 3/16" thick center plate onto the spinners. All I have left to do on them is drill the center hole. here's a pic of the spinner as it will sit on top of the flange.

http://forum.atomiczombie.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129&d=1214528352

[SirJoey]

Wow, those are really sharp, Kid! Are you gonna leave a bit of the axle sticking through the flange, to weld those to?

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

[AtomicZombie]

Cool - looks like the center of a racing steering wheel.

Brad

[gbbwolf]

Almost reminds me of the ones in that zombie movie they put on the trucks LMAO

Very Cool

Nelson

[TheKid]

I was going to drill a hole and weld them to the axle, then cap it with a 1 1/2" round, 3/16" thick center. While checking out other wheels, I noticed some are held on with a keyway, then nutted tight. So I may try that method since I have a keyed axle, and go back to the original plan of using the left side of BB shells to screw them on the freewheel threads. I'll still weld the center cap on to simulate the spinners I saw in Pep Boys. I almost bought them for $6 a pair, but the clerk said they're just pot metal, so you can't weld them. Plus they were paper thin. They had others made of steel, but they were 12 bucks each, so I passed.
A while back I posted a thread explaining how I was going to make the spinners. I didn't have anything wider than 3" at that time, so I was going to cut 6 pieces and weld them to a piece of 1 1/2" round tube. But I recently found a piece of 1/8" thick steel plate that was 5" wide and about a foot long. I made the template to fit, then drilled the holes and cut the spinners out with a jigsaw. On the underside there are pilot hole in the centers going halfway through. That way if I decide not to weld them to the axles, I won't have a hole to fill in, and if I do, the centers are already located.

[SirJoey]

Have you considered the fact that, once your spinners are welded on, if you break a spoke on the outer flange, you may not be able to install a replacement? (Assuming you DO end up welding them on)

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

[TheKid]

I checked that out already. I could install all the spokes with the spinners on, because the large holes in the spinners allow access. However, since I want to paint them a different color, It would be a lot easier if they're removable. So I'll probably do it the easy way. I'll thread the ends of the axles, and weld nuts to the spinners.

[SirJoey]

Kool, can't wait to see the finished product, whatever method you use.

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

[n9viw]

Doh, beat me to it. I was going to suggest welding a stop collar (one of those steel sleeves with the set screw through the side) to the back of the spinner, so you can slide the spinner on and off at will, just loosen the setscrew and pop it on (or off).

[TheKid]

I thought of that, but I want a 1 1/2" tube behind the spinner to cover the freewheel threads. It looks better when placed 1 1/4 - 1 1/2" past the hub. So with the collar, you'd have the 1 1/2" tube to cover the freewheel threads, then a 1 1/8" collar, then the spinner. The step down didn't look so hot. It would have worked if I used a 3/4" axle and collar.