Couple Questions

[presyesc]

Hello-

The time has come to work on installing the front head tube and forks on the Meridian. Being that the head tube on the 20" kids bike is a smaller diameter than the width of the 1.5" tubing, won't there be an opening on each side of the head tube? Also- I am confused with cutting down the head tube to a smaller size- once I cut it down, wouldn't I be cutting off one end of the bearing "cup"? Thanks for you help and advice

-Preston

[nzvet]

Hey Preston!



Being that the head tube on the 20" kids bike is a smaller diameter than the width of the 1.5" tubing, won't there be an opening on each side of the head tube?

You can make hack saw cuts of about half an inch down each corner of your square tube. Then, squeeze two sides together to meet the size of your head tube. Trim the other overhanging edges.

Also- I am confused with cutting down the head tube to a smaller size- once I cut it down, wouldn't I be cutting off one end of the bearing "cup"?

The bearing cups in the head tube are simply pressed in place and can be knocked out. Put a smaller tube or bar inside the head tube against the edge of the bearing cup. Then, give it a tap with a hammer. Do the same with opposite inside edge of the cup. Go back and forth and you should see the cup start to come out. Once cups are removed you're free to modify the headtube and then re-insert the cups.

Let me know if this doesn't make sense. All the best with your project!

[presyesc]

Hello nzvet, thanks for explaining everything. When you trim the square tubing, is that done before or after you make the round cuts that conform to the head tube? Also- I already cut and welded the main frame so am I still okay? Thanks

-Preston

[nzvet]

Hello nzvet, thanks for explaining everything. When you trim the square tubing, is that done before or after you make the round cuts that conform to the head tube? Also- I already cut and welded the main frame so am I still okay? Thanks

-Preston

I'd say do the trimming after the round cut outs. However, if you're using 1 1/2 square tube (is this right?) there should be very little gap either side where both tubes meet (as in the Meridian plan photos 30 & 31). If you have to squeeze the square tube together at all I'd say it would be minimal. Therefore your corner cuts as explained previous could well be less than 1/2 inch (less to weld up as well).
Welding the main frame to the front boom first is correct.
What's most important is that you get your head tube angle right.

[TheKid]

You have to make sure the head angle is set for the correct amount of trail. Prop the frame so it's at the angle you're planning on using. I believe the plans say 14" at the front and 19" at the rear. Next, assemble the fork, head tube and front wheel. Hold the assembled unit so that the head tube is held against the side of the front tube, basically the same way it would be if it were already welded to the front tube. You'll need a broomstick or something similar for the next step. Hold the broomstick next to the head tube, on the same line, as if you were extending the head tube to the ground. Adjust the angle of the head tube until the broom stick meets at the same point, or slightly ahead (No more than an inch) of where the tire meets the ground. Now mark the position of the head tube onto the front tube. That's your head tube angle. When you install the pilot head tube, it should be at that same angle to make the steering adjustments easier.

[AtomicZombie]

Thanks guys.

Brad

[presyesc]

Thanks for the advice, I can now move on to the next step. :cool:

[presyesc]

Hello- I thought I would post a couple more questions I thought of in this post- I appreciate all of the help I have gotten.

1) Is it alright to use a solid steering control arm instead of a hollow one?

2) Is there any way to cover up or fill in any nicks/scratches prior to painting?

3) Where can I get a hold of a pulley?

Thanks

-Preston

[trikeman]

Hello- I thought I would post a couple more questions I thought of in this post- I appreciate all of the help I have gotten.

1) Is it alright to use a solid steering control arm instead of a hollow one?

2) Is there any way to cover up or fill in any nicks/scratches prior to painting?

3) Where can I get a hold of a pulley?

Thanks

-Preston

1. Yes. A hollow one is lighter, but you can use any one that you can make fit. Mine is solid on my DW. I threaded mine with much pain, but its easier to just weld a section of bolt of the proper size on the ends.

2. Yes you can use body filler putty (bondo). Primer will also cover some sins.

3. I got my pulley from McMasterCarr. Just search for pulley in their online catalog and select the size and type you want. I think mine was about $6 and some change.

[TheKid]

Some of us use glazing putty instead of auto body filler for filling scratches. It's a lot easier to work with, and easy to sand smooth. It's available in the same area as body filler in auto stores. It will fill scratches up to 1/16" deep with one coat. It also fills any low spots in welded seams.

[Richie Rich]

Hi, Preston....

1) Is it alright to use a solid steering control arm instead of a hollow one?Yes, but make sure it won't bend easily. As strange as it may sound, a solid rod will bend easier than a tube. I found this out the hard way on my DeltaWolf.

2) Is there any way to cover up or fill in any nicks/scratches prior to painting?In addition to Glazing Putty, I use Spot Putty. It comes in a tube like toothpaste and is a thinner consistency good for minor scratches and imperfections.

3) Where can I get a hold of a pulley?Try here....

http://www.fullcirclepadding.com/index.cfm?event=ProductDetail&ProductID=467

or here....

http://www.fitness-equipment.com/acatalog/Fitness_Equipment_Pulleys___Replacement_255.html

Good luck with your project and remember to take LOTS of pictures...!

......Richie Rich >>
.

[presyesc]

Thanks Trikeman, TheKid, and Richie for your advice. I saw a couple Meridians with a deraileur as a pulley, and I am wondering how this is done- however, I would like to raise the top and bottom chain higher up, not just the bottom one. I drew a crude image as to how this might work but I am not sure whether or not the chain has a risk of falling off. Also- do you think that I could take the sprockets off and make a custom mount for them that has some flanges on the sides to keep the chain in place? Thanks

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u259/presyesc/deraileur.jpg

[robertwb70]

A deraileur will NOT take the stress it would get on the power side, you need something more substantial there but it will work OK for the slack side although there are better solutions there also.

[TheKid]

I don't see any reason for raising the chain on the power side, since it follows a direct line to the cogs. Generally, a pulley is used on the power side when clearance is needed, and the Meridian's inherent design doesn't require any clearance. Adding a puuley on the power side, if not allowed to travel sideways with the chain, only adds resistance. In fact, there would be more of a chance for the chain falling off if a power side pulley is added.
The return side hangs low, which is why the pulley is in place. I used a disassembled derailler (Springs removed) instead of the pulley, because that's what I had on hand. It worked fine.