View Full Version : Warrior helped me fight back after death accident

09-03-2012, 11:29 AM
Hi everybody :sunny:

I want to share a little of my Zombinisation, first a bit of the boring stuff.

I was involved in an accident where 1 person died and 1 person was heavily injured.
I was not directly responsible for the accident but deeply involved in the rescue and cleaning up after the accident.
It was on a vessel on the high sea's, and I could not get away from the place, and I tried to get mentally away during evenings/nights by surfing the internet to the extend possible (here i found Atomic Zombie).
Long story short, I was seriously set back with depression.

I did during the long nights decide that I wanted/needed something to bring me back on track again.
My goal was to build a Warrior.
I liked the design and the philosophy around this so that was the plan.

When I finally returned home I was a pain in the #### for my family and friends, as my mood changes and overall grumpiness was out of anything they should deal with.

I started to read up on the plans as well as planing the build a little.

That was the starting point.
Now I will go through the project and tell a little about my experience.

After reading the plans a couple of times, and spending loads of time reading the forum collecting info and inspiration I ordered some steel and prepared myself for the job.

First thing I was worried about was the rear "fork"
I am a generously build guy :cheesy: who likes to push the gear to my limit.
So I was worried that I might overstress the connection between the fork and the seat pole.
I tried to solve this by using a 40x40x4mm tube for the top part of the fork (the rest of the build is mostly done in 40x40x2mm).

I played around with the measurements and decided I needed a slightly longer "leg" in the fork.
I wanted to fit a fender and needed space for this (weather in Denmark can be slightly wet at times :-/)
I also opened the to a little as I wanted to be able to fit very wide tires should need be.

I played around for some time as my health allowed to and got the rear fork finished in reasonable time.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/BtuRnEB7CEHPqehZGpitReBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink

This the end result of that part. I'll just test if this picture uploads as it should, and the continue later :cheesy:
I hope to show direct pictures so people can see the picture while they read not needing to visit links all the time.
I'm not sure this works out the way it was intended.

See you later :)


Radical Brad
09-03-2012, 12:42 PM
Thanks for sharing your inspiration story!
I guess we are all DIY addicts here, but what a great thing to be hooked on.
Creativity is a cure for almost anything.


09-03-2012, 01:09 PM
Thanks for sharing. Your Picasaweb link worked great and I was able to view it.

09-03-2012, 06:15 PM
Thanks for sharing your story and I know where your coming from. sometimes life can be brutal and it hard to put tragedy in [perspective. You did what you had to do and bthat all that counts. Your project is coming out great. Keep your mind and hands busy and love people close to you

09-03-2012, 07:09 PM

:sunny:You are welcome:sunny:

It is soo true, and the nice reactions from scepticism to wonder and people being impressed throughout the build really made things smoother.
My Energy/mood boost when any part process was finished and I could show people something and feel that they reacted positively to my doings was great

Super hobby that is for sure, can't wait to finish the bike.


09-03-2012, 07:18 PM

:sunny:You are welcome

Thank you, did you see the picture in the post or did you have to follow the link?
I wish to show the pictures directly in the post so people don't have to follow a link all the time.

All the best

Penola :)

09-03-2012, 07:24 PM

You are welcome :)

Yes it can be hard, and without the family it would not go.
But I must say that the Warrior project gave me a great boost of energy and mood :cheesy:

So I must thank you all you fellow Zombinists out there for sharing and being an inspiration that got me going.
Now I'm just happy and proud if I can help anybody getting on the way with whatever they need to do.

Penola :sunny:

09-03-2012, 10:30 PM
I followed the link- There is a limit to the amount of build pictures that can posted in an individual post. The Picasa link works fine and I use it myself. It is part of my signature so anyone can look any time they desire.
Following a link does not make the post less like able. Many of us have links to other addresses to show our work off. Sometimes it is easier that way. And one fully painted and complete Brad request it be posted to the gallery. So keep on posting a link. It works and you can add comment to the photo to help you keep track. Feel free to check out my link for ideas.

09-03-2012, 10:46 PM

OK, thanks for the 5 cents :-)
I'll keep posting via the link then :-D

All the best

Penola :-)

09-03-2012, 11:23 PM
Hi Zombies :alien:

I was worried and nervous about the welding skills required for this as well as the precision needed.
I have been welding a little here and there, but I wanted this to be perfect.
Basically I would put my life on the welds so.......

I have a VERY old MIG welder, that have been serviced when broken and that's it.
What I did some years back after several break downs was to install additional cooling of the unit.
Fitted 2 big 220VAC computer fans to increase the almost non existing flow of air around transformer and control print.
It works, and I think/hope that my welds will hold.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/HxoxGSTruzgXio0R5WTvSuBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink

I decided to grind the outside welds to make a slightly cleaner look on the fork.
Due to the increased strength of the 40x40x4mm top pipe I believed this would hold fine.
The other 3 welds on each fork leg was left as welded as suggested by Brad in the plans
This is the result of that, and one of the first "I CAN DO THIS" experiences and as such very very valuable in my healing process as I was in a very bad state at this time.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/CqMumP70QjnB0qhAhFH6QuBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink

The fork was not so hard, I played around with my slightly changed geometry a little, but ended up placing the parts om a 20mm wooden plate put a beam on top, and pressed the items together so I could adjust it under load.
I think I got a nice straight fork as a result without to much problem.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/gnABqsRtxKGFXP_kqdjOsuBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink

Now it was time for the brackets that carries the rear wheel.
That must be for another day

All the best, and good wind :cheesy:

Penola :)

09-05-2012, 02:40 AM
Hi Zombies :sunny:

Bracket for rear axle/wheel.

This took me some consideration due to my size and intended use of the bike.
Well yes I'm kind of over engineering here I'm sure, but it made me feel better (+ it was the steel I had available)
I decided to make a much more angled cut than what is in the plans.
So about 3/4 of the way trough the huffing and puffing with my hacksaw this is the result.


As you can see I have cut out the dropout from one of the donor bikes.
The plan was to remove the metal and fit this one in stead.
Then I got the correct dimension, the thread for the rear de-railer was saved (I don't have this tap), and the little hook to adjust de-railer position was also saved.
You will see the result in a later post.

Have a nice day everyone :cheesy:

Penola :)

09-05-2012, 09:21 AM
That cool that your over engineered it. I do that allot to, better safe than sorry. I made mine real heavy duty too so it would take a hub motor with no problems. I mounts my derailluer the same way and it worked out great. Looking good

09-05-2012, 07:02 PM
@River :-)
Yes you are right, and I have found pictures of fails in this area.
Only 1 or 2 but that should not happen to me :-)

I have some other thinking going around making it stronger in the seat post/fork area.

Similar minds think alike :-)

09-06-2012, 08:36 AM
Thanks for sharing your build. It's fun to watch your mind go through the stages of your build. Great work!

09-06-2012, 08:54 AM
@Graucho Thanks a lot :-D I will get a little further one of these day depending of time available :-D I did mess a bit with these brackets, got myself a little into a corner but found a decent way out again :-D

09-06-2012, 08:48 PM
Hi there :alien:'s

OK, now the brackets are due :-D

I have already decided to flush mount the old hanger for the gear in the bracket.
After some consideration I decided to flush mount it so the outside is smooth and plain looking, and on the inside the fitting can be seen, but not too much.
This was the result:


I have been looking at the brackets in the plans, and decided to make them stronger and longer.
I was also thinking a lot about the sidewards loads on the bike.
What can I do the combat that issue.

Bend !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I decided to bend the brackets a little (equal to the angle of the rear fork.
I think it gave a nice flow of the bracket now it was so much longer than in the plans.
This is the idea and result.


It must be said that I welded the hanger into the bracket first.
Then I place the 2 brackets on top of each other, tag welded then together and ground the opening for the shaft in the non-drive side according to the drive side.
This gave a perfect fit on shaft with regard to angle and fit later on.
Only here I did the bend of the plate.

So final welding finished and I was happy :cheesy:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/nF-IwCtr8H2KzYYPcsNQquBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=dire ctlink

If you noticed I used an old 7-speed hub, and everything looked OK.
Later i decided to use a new 9 speed and that caused me a slight problem with the bend design.
If you look here then there is room enough:


But with the new slightly wider casette (outmost gear wheel was just a little bit further out than shown on the picture), and the chain just touched the metal on the drive part.
I had to grind about ½mm of the bracket just where the chain worked when i gear 9.
A little adjustment, but I'm still happy with my change of design.

Have a nice day Zombies :cheesy:

09-11-2012, 07:45 AM
Hi fellow Zombies :alien:

After some time of not being able to do anything but work I'm back.

I did finish up the rear fork and achived what felt like 1 of the milestones in the build.
It felt very good to reach this point and it made me think a lot about the future for my Warrior.

To be honest I felt so good about it that I decided to go all in on the project.
This means that my plans of using old parts was kind of put on hold.
I started looking into getting all new parts (except the head tube/fork parts and bottom bracket).

I found that I would get some decent good parts and pay the price.
Ordered some parts and while waiting for same I continued on the frame.

I cut out the fishtail in the seat tube and fitted the same in my "rig".
I used 2 long 80x40 and clamped them around the rear wheel.
I also fitted some small pieces of frame tube in between the beams.
See below Sorry about the picture quality, I only had a phone camera):

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/b7dz_f9hEk9f7IV2sUEDoOBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink

I used the a spirit level to establish the vertical/horizontal check which.
I later on got very annoyed about this and fitted a fixed support at the rear wheel.
That will be seen on other post later in the story.
The beams worked out quite OK, and was easy to deal with as such.
The result was a nice straight "spine" on the Warrior :cheesy: :sunny:

It took me quite some time to get everything aligned, tacked and fully welded.
I just followed the plans as Brad laid them out.
Only my own personal problems set me quite a bit back, as I could not keep the concentration and had to leave the project at odd times here and there.
Result was OK, but way to much time was used on this part of the project.

I continued later with the steering booms and fittings, but that calls for another post.

09-11-2012, 07:56 PM
Your photo's were great from your I phone. I like your jig too. it does make it allot easy if you spend a few minutes building a jig to align your parts before welding. I see you got the building bug, it's terminal, it never goes away lol

09-12-2012, 01:00 AM

Sure am bitten by the bug :-D
Nice hobby to get into.
I think I'll buy the new Aurora plan today as well :-D
This could very easy be just what SWAMBO want's :-D

Most of the pictures are good enough, but some from the last post with the rig was not the best.
Glad that people at least can see the function and idea (which so many before me have used).

09-12-2012, 07:49 AM
Hi fellow :alien:'s

OK, frame spine done.
Now I have to get going on the steering bits and parts + the booms.
I decided to go quite a bit over the top with respect to the wheel fitting.
The plan was to make a one piece system with brake fitting etc in 1 piece.
Sadly id did not go exactly as the plan.
I started by cutting and modifying the head tubes.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/c-bf8k2l8d5n_ExS8IxJpOBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=dir ectlink

This went according to plans (Brads plans I should mention :-D)
Only "problem" was that I only found the small diameter head tubes.

With respect to the booms I thought I'd better make a perfect fit as well as a slightly modification.
With respect to the boom I was lucky to have a metal holesaw that fitted quite nicely.
I cut the boom too long and made a hole for the head tubes.
I had also prepared the wheel fitting.
See the next picture for the parts (the hole for the wheel bolt is still not drilled to 20mm yet).

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/rhrKqfXfCgV7Q6DIbvmBOOBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/2xmvZeSmZoq9PRdgVsCnUOBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink

As you can see I cut the material away (so I could slide in the head tube) and left a little flap in front of the head tube.
Then I tacked the parts together.
During the welding I bend the "flaps" around the head tubes and thus created a stronger connection here than according to the original plans.

Here is the picture before welding where you can see the flaps.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/OdKxZ01q3ehPpHPn2e02ZOBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
In this picture you can see the flaps before I adjusted them for the fit.

Before I fitted the head tubes I needed them to do the weld of the wheel bit.
I created a rig like Spinner used in his build.
I just had to make it work from both sides as my design is rather different than the plans suggest :builder2:
Here is a couple of pictures of the parts and rig.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/V70cQT698fUVQFzyPV6oNeBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink

When the rig was done and checked it was just to weld the 2 pieces together and fit the head tubes in the booms.

I'm sorry that I don't have picture of the finished welding of the 2 parts

OK, that must be enough for this time :-D :rolleyes4:

09-12-2012, 09:18 AM
Your making great progress. looking good

09-12-2012, 10:15 AM

Thanks a bunch :-D
It was really something that cause me problems through the build of the wheel/steering system.
Should have stuck with the plans, but OK, in the end the result is hopefully good.
However I'm quite sure that the steelwork will be able to take the load of the wheels :-D


09-12-2012, 11:48 AM
The Great thing about building your own bike- If it turns out you don't like it- Pull out the grinder-Cut off the bad- And redo it. You have a welder after all. And this is not a race to finish- It is therapy in the making. So far It the build is looking really good. Hope it works out for you. I know where you are at- I have a similar issue except it was some one dear to my heart. Some days it is hard to even get out of bed. This site and my build are the few things that get me going in the world. So hang in there. Love the way you did the half moon cuts for the boom. I tried that but due to lack of drill press and only a Harbor Freight Pipe notcher which seized up even with oiling and bolting to table my holes were not worth the effort. Your turned out great. Keep up the good work and hang in there.

09-12-2012, 12:01 PM
Thank you :-D
Yes it is very good therapy indeed.
OK at the time I didn't need any setbacks, but looking forward the project is for sure OK.
I might redo these bits and parts in the future, but I have an idea how to make it look a little nicer.

Yes my hole saws are of good quality and I have a drill press making this an easy job to do with a good finish.
It's nice with good tools.
I started to collect tools when I was around 6 years old and never stooped.
I still have some of these tools :-D

I'll hang in there, just need time alone at times.
A nice project like this does luckily lure me out and gets the mood better when I'm down.
My greatest luck is that SWAMBO is understanding this and let me rumage around at my liking/need.

All the best also in your direction :-D

09-14-2012, 10:30 AM
Hi everybody and fellow :alien:'s

Time to look at some parts.
As earlier mentioned i decided to go all in on parts.
So I ordered new double bottom rims all around, new hubs, and of course disc brakes 180mm discs and hydraulic babies.
Why? Well I found that some of the brakes have a banjo fitting on the caliber which gave me a chance for a much cleaner "cable" routing.
We will look at the brake later, but I got the front wheels finished with new Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires.
These tires looks good, have a reasonable fast tire thread but still not totally bald (we have lots of rain in Denmark so I need a little grip).


I smiled all over the face when I got the discs and tires fitted :-D

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/chzU2-A9BLOXYa9dN6jSEeBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=directl ink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RPeAt_yEVgCfQQwJsDpsuOBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink

I must however admit that I F..... up and had to change the tires once as I mixed up the direction.
Anyway, I like the tires and hope they perform as good as they look :-D

Now I could finally finish the frame by getting the booms in position.
I played around a lot with this (used 1 frame pce under each wheel to make the allignment and marking of the booms before cutting), and finally got ready to weld the booms in position.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/iZ4buGfr1ruEQtbFH1gvjOBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink

After a little cooking of metal I got a finished frame

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/A6hurHFgS_EMRsCL0zoOSuBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink

Yahoooooooooo :sunny::sunny::sunny:

Well actually also a rolling frame, still with the scrap rear wheel as the new rim/hub for the rear had not arrived yet.
However I think I got a very significant step on the way to the goal.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/xMfJgrjFXZoSZscg1rRuhOBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/E1_IDrjxNzJon6ImwSFw_eBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/PC4P6bcybN6Wq8pc14Qk5OBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink

I think I got a little bit steeper booms than original planned due to the change of design at the lower part of the head tube part.

Anyway, see you another day for the next part of this thread :-D

09-15-2012, 08:21 AM
Beautiful job. I love the wheels. I have a little nephew that is fascinated with wheels, especially when they're spinning. Just like his uncle. I hope you get great satisfaction out of sitting in your handbuilt creation watching the wheels spinning around. I know I do:)

09-15-2012, 10:18 AM
@ Spinner

Thanks for looking in on my thread :-D

I really love these wheels and the oversize brakes looks as they should :cheesy:
It is really going to be nice looking at them spin :rolleyes4: I will enjoy that.

I must say that you, if any really raised the bar on the Warriors being build.
So if you say it looks good them I'm a happy camper :-D


09-17-2012, 12:15 PM
Hi fellow Zombies I got the hubs wheels and shaft in position as you have seen in other posts here. I had however some thoughts and modifications to get over with before I fitted booms/wheels. This is about the front wheels. I did not have the bolt size suggested in the plan, and due to my gravitationally challenged body I decided to go all in here as well and I found some M20 12.8 bolts (Allen head). They look very nice, will for sure take the load, and actually I also like the end of the bolt with the nice rounded for the outside of the hub. Well this called for some modifications as well. I have kept the outside distance pieces on both sides of the hub. I have however machined them down to around 5mm thickness instead of the original 15mm. By keeping these distance pieces I believe I shield the bearings a little better considering the conditions in Denmark. Another equally important issue is that I'm 100% sure that I only apply the force on the inner ring of the bearing. This is good reasons for me to use this system. It did however again resulted in a even steeper boom angle (not much but it's there). Good I had the wheel done before fitting the booms so it all was compensated through the build. One of the true benefit of working after Brads plans :-D I'm considering to shorten the bolt head a little for the looks. But maybe I will make an end-cover for the bolt head that makes it even nicer. I have also been considering to make the bolt hollow to save a little weight. OK, also for the looks ;-D The playing around with the shaft and distance pieces took a little time to get right but it's good now. The wheel was laced up as 3 over/cross design with centered rim on the hub to maximize the strength in the sideways direction as we will push the wheel hard when increasing speed in the corners :-D I got some help from the LBS in choosing the lacing pattern. They have been most helpful during the project and equally interested in the project too. They really like this design and are awaiting the final result as well :-D All in all the wheel build/modification did definitely take some time, but I think it was worth the time. At present I don't have pictures of this, but I will try to remember to take a few pictures when I get the opportunity. All the best :-D

09-17-2012, 12:30 PM
geeee, what happened there??? All my formatting was lost and everything is just pulled together. Must be a glitch in the transfer, sorry everyone.

09-22-2012, 01:43 PM
Hi fellow Zombies.I have serious problems with my connection.Actually to an extend that I have given up posting for the time being.As soon as I get another/better connection I will follow up on the post.Sorry about this :-/

10-13-2012, 04:07 PM
Hi Penola.

Great build so far! Congrats no building the first danish warrior. I am planning to build the second danish one! Maybe we should make a club :jester:

I am wondering though - where do you buy your parts? I am at the moment looking for front wheels. 20" with disc brakes is not easy to find here.

10-14-2012, 08:01 AM
Hi Poesp :-D

Ive been shopping around quite a bit.
I got the hubs from UK.
I ordered: hope evo pro 2 36h for the front hubs.

I am considering to test this shimano hub for another project:
Shimano SLX Front Hub HB-M667 20mm 36h

Rims was purchased in DK, nice double wall model.
Choose 1 where I could get almost the same design for the rear rim (I never found same rim in 20" and 26")

Spokes was a problem as I could not find them in the right size.
My local bike shop helped me out :-D

Good luck with your build.
If you have half as much fun and good experience as I had with mine so far then you are in for a treat :-D

10-18-2012, 02:28 PM
Hi guys and girls :-)

I'm finally back online on a good connection.
I've been away from home for 2 1/2 month so I need a little time to reset my self to home mode.

I will return in a couple of days an continue the history of my build :-D

10-22-2012, 07:20 PM
Hi fellow Zombies :-D

I said I was back on-line again.
Just for a short time before I needed new laptop which I'm fighting to get into a corperative mood.

Well I will get back to the build. I finished off with the wheels and their fitting.

Here you can just see the distance piece before the modification of same.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RPeAt_yEVgCfQQwJsDpsuOBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
Tomorrow I'll get a picture of the part in the machined condition.

It's late night here due to that annoying computer.

10-25-2012, 03:35 PM
Hi fellow Zombies :punk:
After having problems with my camera I finally got the pictures I wanted.

Here you can see that the distance pieces are much smaller than in the last post.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/mgTI5YYs3H1nQNSyf9RM8uBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/VLg6NuSrhZQjIsV5CMADpeBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink

On the last picture you can see that the bolt + distance piece is a little big/long.
I plan to machine the bolt head and maybe the distance piece a little as well.

I'll try on one of the bolts and see how it looks in the end.
I'm also considering a nice end-cap.

Hope to get a little further tomorrow. :builder2:

10-25-2012, 04:04 PM
I had a simlar issue- I bought thinner nuts in the end. But if you have the machining ability then go for it. I just had issue holding the nut and trying to grind it flat, and my hack sawing abiltiy sucks. I wish you luck. Fortunately for me I have McMaster-Carr here in the USA for access to hardware of that nature. Good luck. Glad to see you back.

10-25-2012, 04:18 PM
Hi Darnthedog :)
Thanks for the greeting :-D

I have read about your problem in this respect.

I have decided not to mess up my lines and measurements by changes on the nut side as this will give problems in the aligning of the wheels as you already know.
My plan is to deal with the outside part as I don't need the big bolt head + It will make the overall size a little smaller, maybe 15-20mm which will help me to get through even smaller doors.

I'll see how it ends as I want to get an extra set of bolts to play with as I also have been thinking about making the bolts hollow.

11-14-2012, 04:02 PM
Hello fellow Zombies :alien:

I got some more work into the project.
I started to deal with the bottom bracket.

I thought I'd be really smart and used the complete bottom part including the 2 pipes which allowed me to fit 2 drinking bottles.
It looks like this:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/T3Uq74uUfPYRtLNo4V8K7eBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/-yHjKnaPxpWFstAM0E08WeBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=di rectlink

This was really just perfect until later in the build, more about this later.
The process of building the bottom bracket tool was quite painless as such.

My big problem started when I fitted by crank set.
I got a seriously low gearing for the bike and I found that the combination of my front shifter cage + angle provided by Brad didn't allow me to use the lowest front gear.
This caused me quite a bit of extra work.
I really tried to keep the 2 pipes but ended up having to remove the lowest pipe in order to reach an angle that allowed me to use the complete range of gears.

Here are a few pictures of the finished bottom bracket after the angle issue was dealt with.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/8R0i4wfPtGAKTMF_JfA4KOBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
You can see that I choose a different design than Brad used for the to side plates.
I did it to distribute the load.
Besides I also got a slightly better place for the cable fitting as the route is very nice.
The cable fitting can just be seen on the plate corner.
I used Sram X9 with down pull making this fitting needed.

I also found that the pipe on the old bike was of a lesser diameter than the new front deraileur was designed for.
Solved it by cutting an extra piece of pipe cut it through (split it on 1 side) and fitted it as a double layer on the pipe.
This leads to the thicker part on the bracket pipe.
I think this is looking quite OK for an emergency fix.

So in short there are 2 things I learned here.
Be aware of the front deraileur versus the front crank set.
Be aware of the diameter of the the front deraileur fitting versus the piping from the donor bike if we do not use the deraileur from the same bike as the bracket/pipe is used from.

Really nice to get some more don on the bike.

All the best :-D

11-14-2012, 07:19 PM
Your trike is coming along beautifully. Doing a great job. I like to keep my bottom bracket just long enough to work the derailleur. Its annoying when its long and blocks your viewing area i would be afraid of getting impelled buy it also. If you put your bottle just ahead of the seat on the angle it doesn't get in your way and you can use it while your moving. That's just my preference. Whats your weather like there, I bet there's allot of snow

11-16-2012, 04:41 AM
Hi River :cheesy:

Thanks a bunch

I have had no issues with the long post being in my way, but OK I'm around 190cm tall so this could be part of the reason :-D
Impaling, yes this might be an issue but I don't see it as a really big issue, at least not enough to make me change the design.

I can reach the bottle with just a slight lean forward so this is actually fine for me.

The real estate in front of the seat are occupied by 2 things.
I have a post holding the bike computer for easy reach/read (there is also room for a phone or alike on same post).
This is the closest area.
In between the bottom bracket and the bike computer post I have decided to install a small pouch.
I use it for emergency tools, phone a little money, ID in case of emergencies etc.
This little post is a clip on/off item that is also waterproof.

The weather at the time is grey with lots of rain, the snow is normally not arriving until december and even then relatively sparse amount.
We are a country surrounded by water and close to the gulf stream which is leading to a relative mild climate in respect of our rather northern latitude

I do however really look forward to test the trike in the snow and play around on a slippery surface :helmet:.

11-21-2012, 05:11 PM
Hi there fellow zombies :alien:

Finished the bottom bracket in the local bike shop.
I got the thread re-freshed and the surface of the pipe machined to perfect condition.
This is done due to the choice of crank set.
I choose a Shimano set like this:
The bearings in this design is radically different compared to the standard design I'm used to handle.
I must admit that testing and driving this crank set have proven a very good experience.
I'm very impressed with the performance of this crank set.
Strong and still light weight.

As mentioned I had to remove the lower pipe on the bottom bracket and tilt the whole unit much further backwards than expected.
In this process I also had to move the bolt holes in the already changed design.
The end result was OK though.

This was the intended design:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/rkZZhFZmxIvjDQusRPvjfuBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
This is the end result:

As you can see the hole is moved and some material was removed.

Now the seat have to get some attention.
It's the part that I used most time researching and making as such.

I decided to use the design Brad suggested in the plans.
I am however taller than Brad and increased the back (center) part of the seat to the absolute maximum.
I'll return to this when I have a few pictures of the seat area and the seat more or less in position.

All the best friends :-D

11-21-2012, 05:33 PM
Looks like your bike is coming along nicely. We celebrate Thanksgiving here on Thursday. Do you have a similar holiday there. What color are you going to paint your new ride

11-21-2012, 05:54 PM
Hi River :)

Yes it's a very nice to see the whole thing develop in front of my eyes :-D

My plans calls for normal black with high gloss on most of small bits and pieces.
The main color is going to be "VW hot orange"

It's going from almost yellow to red depending on light and angle of same to the frame.
I decided to go all the way as I've really have fallen in love with this bike as it means a lot for me due to the circumstances about the build.

In Denmark we don't have Thanksgiving, the next big thing for us is Christmas.

All the best :-D

11-23-2012, 08:37 AM
Hi fellow Zombies :alien:

Seat ended up like this:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/IzpaUwtWPMaDewLohmMAmOBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
I fitted many different cushions and supports but ended up with the one shown in the picture and a seat cushion from same material.
I sculpted the seat cushion a little making it thinner in the sides.

I have also added a picture from the side.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Qw6OjkNt2f_ci_lHCHYDEOBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink

On this picture you can see the 2 angle brackets I used to control the sideways movement and making it possible to slide the seat forward/backward during the testing.
As it can be seen it ended up just following the frame as intended from Brad.

I have some more on the seat later in this thread, as I continued to work on this issue throughout the project.
It's was one of the last items I finished working on.

11-23-2012, 09:18 AM
Hi fellow Zombies :alien:

Seat in service check:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/rO9NGZHSCY48dCjyWiHaKOBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink

Bottom bracket in service:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/-yHjKnaPxpWFstAM0E08WeBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=di rectlink

Got the steering linkage in position so the unit could be rolled around the property.
More about this later.

Time for test sitting on the table :-D
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/r1KDeRuTXcsotSwDjBFK5uBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink

Rolled the baby into the garden with swmbo at the controls:
Got to test it myself as well:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/0mLbCs5YTx7GiEBVg5ndgOBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink

Good success as such :-D

11-23-2012, 11:58 AM
Hi fellow Zombies :alien:

Got the test sitting over with.
I started rolling around the backyard just pushing the front wheels by hand.
This was fun until I started turning the bike.
:rolleyes4::rolleyes4::rolleyes4::rolleyes4::rolle yes4::rolleyes4::rolleyes4::rolleyes4::rolleyes4:

My steering wasn't up to par with the goal of zero scrubbing.

Big big problem.
I checked, double checked and tripple checked for various faults in this respect.
I failed to find any clear fault.
What to do??????????????????????

I started checking with uncle google searching for info on the Ackermann steering principle.

I found some general well describing info telling some good stuff:

The info from before and this drawing helped me get the problem solved:

I fitted an old blot in the cutouts for the rear axle.
On the center I fitted a string and routed it to both pivot points as suggested in the diagram mentioned above.
When I did this I found that the center of the bolt head in the steering arms was almost 15mm out of the allignment expected.

Well this surprised me quite a bit.
Nothing to it as such so I modified the arms so the center of the bolt head in the arms was right in the line of the string.

Tested the system and to my surprise this worked out perfect :-D
Felt like :xmas: just visited :-D

Love when things works out :cheesy:

11-29-2012, 01:06 PM
Hi Fellow Zombies :alien:

After the test sitting and pushing around in the back yard it was time to install some more gear and get a few things in line.
I visited the LBS for a fresh up of the bottom bracket.
As I changed from normal casette with internal bearings to shimano hollowtech system where the bearings are much bigger and placed closer to the crank arms I had to get the surface of the "pipe" ends machined to 100% parallel condition.

When done the install of the crank set was very easy, and the performance of said set is surprising the hell out of me in a positive way :-D

Getting the chain in position was relative easy, however I still really can't decide what length I should use to maximize the range of gears available without too many problems in the respect of too loose chain.

I adjusted the gear system and was more or less ready to roll.

Brakes was another issue.
I decided to use a set of hydraulic brakes as it would make the cable/hose routing easier and cleaner.
On the set I choose I can move the hose around so the routing on left/right side is almost 100% the same and thus looking a little more pleasing.
I have found the braking with this set of hydraulic brakes are really good.
I decided to try with 2 separate brake systems 1 for each side which work fine so far.
By the way I decided not to fit a rear brake on this bike and I haven't had any problem with this.

Right side hydraulic hose routing:
Left side hydraulic hose routing:

I started running the bike on the roads and found more stuff to do :-D

11-29-2012, 03:44 PM
Hi fellow zombies :alien:

After some test runs at increasing speeds and distance I found a few items that I could mess with.

I started using ordinary plumbing pipe for the bike computer position as well as for the piece supporting the upper part of the seat.
That was a very heavy solution.
I found some Cromo-pipe that I could use.
It was a little difficult to weld but saved about 1,3kg of steel for just 2 pipes :-D
Couldn't believe it but the scale told the tale.

I also found an annoying problem that caused the chain to jump out of the lead rolls.
In Denmark we have some rather nasty speed bumps.
When hitting these at speeds of 30km/t the jolt send through the bike will pull the chain downwards and cause it to drop out of the lead rollers.
A couple of times the chain did not return to the lead rollers and I had to stop to re-route the the chain into the lead rollers.
Got a little into the think tank on this:

The result was that I routed the chain return pipe below the rollers instead of next to the rollers as in Brads plans.
The result looks like this:

Front roller
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/4I_36RMB20bf_KSdlpoABeBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink

Rear roller:

After this fix I haven't had a "drop" of the chain.
The routing is possible without causing any problems with steering linkage.

I must say that the testing have generally been very successful and one hell of a joyride.
I've been trying out the bike and my limits slowly to figure out if there are any issues that I haven't seen during the build.
I have to admit that I chicken out way before the bike reach the limits.

So far I must say that the Warrior design made by Brad is absolutely a winner :sunny:
My full respect goes to Atomic Zombie for this plan that really have been a joy.
It really also helped me get over the death accident.
Many times when the mood got bad I have found that the success found during the build have helped me get back on the positive side.
The test rides have also provided me with good times that have kept my mood higher than normally could be expected.

Once again thank you Atomic Zombie:sunny:

11-29-2012, 04:47 PM
Looking Good Penola- Glad it is helping you along.
For a future thought on the chain if you ever need to change it for any reason- Some folks have bent a thin piece of metal to form an L or a J that wraps around the pulley to prevent the chain from popping out. However your solution works out great as you did not have to build another piece to fit over the pulley.
Glad you having so much fun. Have you got the bug to build another or are you going to ride this one for a while? Looks like you had a friend who would not mind joining you for rides on another one. And a friend riding with you can help as much as building these bikes/trikes. But that is none of my business. Just saw the grins in the pictures. Once again great job.

12-02-2012, 01:37 PM
Hi darnthedog :-D
Sorry for the late reply, but I have been traveling the last couple of days.
Yes I have seen the mentioned way with the metal "hook".
Just thought; why not incorporate hook and return pipe support in 1 go :-D
I will for sure ride this baby a lot, but I also can't let go of this thought:
What to bild next!!!!!!!!!!!!
The little SWMBO on the pictures is also high on the todo list.
We haven't decided which model to chose for her.
I guess either:
Streetfox/Warrior combo
or a twosome most likely a Viking
But maybe I'll make the Warrior/streetfox combo for myself first.

I have some be considering to change the suspension to some kind of under the seat system to make the bike more compact.
This is however very much just loose thoughts at present.

All the best :-D

12-02-2012, 07:03 PM
I also found an annoying problem that caused the chain to jump out of the lead rolls.
In Denmark we have some rather nasty speed bumps.

Hi Penola,

Here's how I solved the same problem I had with chain jumping. It's a combo retainer and clamp. I also live in an Arctic environment with frost heaved roads. We've got some bone jarring bumps.


12-03-2012, 01:04 AM
Hi Spinner

Your solution looks good :-D
I just used the wrap around solution shown in the pictures in post # 48.
Here the tubing is even closer to the chain.

Our worst bumps are all the stupid speed bumps that is ever so popular in Denmark at the time being.
Some of them are quite OK, but some of them, ohhhh ***** when you hit them at 30km/h+ it feels like we are ready to fly :-D
I think that the bike shoes locked to the pedals is an absolute must have.

12-03-2012, 08:24 AM
Hi fellow Zombies :alien:

Latest experience:

I have been riding the baby quite a bit and decided to go further into the seat issue.
The first 500-600 km test running was on the wood seat.
I have been looking at various way's of doing the seat as well as looking at pre fabricated seats.

I found a not so local recumbent dealer which was in an area I would pass by when visiting some friends.
I decided to drop by with my old seat in my hand and see/test what was available.
He had a seat in my size in stock and I compared it to Brads/my seat.
To my surprise the seats was very much alike in appearance.

What did i do?????

I did a very un-atomic zombie thing.
I purchased the seat and a seat cushion designed for the seat and recumbent riding.

Hurried up fitting the baby and now what?????????????

Well as much comfort as I've had on the wooden seat this is way better.
I have had a slight pain in the upper/back side of my thighs when reaching around 25km of good hard pedaling.
I was sure it was because of my highly unfit body, and this would eventually go away after much more training.
After the seat was fitted there are absolutely no problems up to around 50km in 1 seating.
This was a day to day difference :-D

Here is a link to the seat and cushion:

Here you can see my seat in position before/after:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/x-Me7gQpvso3ww_lnT4wxOBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=dir ectlink
When I compare the 2 sets there is only a 50mm shorter "butt" plate and a little more organic shape as the difference.

I also found (actually very early that I needed some way of controlling my feet/legs.
I found that my knees started hurting quite fast, and that I had big problems keeping my feet on the pedals when crossing some of our notorious speed bumps.
I had relatively short time ago purchased a set of pedals for my mountain bike that I tried on the Warrior.
They can be used as normal pedal on 1 side (normal shoes), or with bike shoes that click in on the other side (SPD style).
They look like this:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/uqEMesIhVQsgjjDHbuFKWuBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
Sorry I don't have a picture of the clip side but it is ordinary shimano SPD style there.

Knee pain gone with the wind and I also feel 100% safe riding the bike without risk of dropping the feet and get hurt in that way.
I know pedals and shoes do add up in price, but this is a big advantage in safety and comfort.
I will never ride the bike at high speed without this type of shoe/pedal combination.
OK, to take a little roll to the shop or close friends knowing that I will not race is still possible with ordinary shoes due to the dual design of the pedal.
This is absolutely a winner :-D

A lot of fiddling and sourcing parts plus test riding, but it is all worth it.
The bike keeps getting better and better all the time :-D

12-03-2012, 09:36 AM
Wow great job on you bike, it looks fantastic. I love your seat to. did you get that seat from the Uk

12-03-2012, 10:49 AM
Hi river :-D

Thanks a lot, it's also one of my most valued things I own.
I'm quite proud of the result my self, and even my SWAMBO is liking it, and she is absolutely not a person appreciating technical things :-D

The seat was purchased in Denmark from a dealer who imports from The Netherlands.
Here is a link to the maker of the seat (and some bikes as well):

They actually have a selection of seats depending on your need and size of valet ;-D
I chose the cheap way, but my seat also comes in Carbon if you'd like that.
Sadly they do not have very good pictures of the seat on the homepage, and I only found it by luck/accident.
I still like it a lot and think it to be fully worth the price.
The seat is around 130 US$, and I go a deal for seat including cushion and cover for same for around 200US$

Not so cheap, but ohh so worth the money.
Comfort is very good and the look of the bike improved vastly by changing the seat.

12-03-2012, 11:29 AM
Beyond safety, one of the biggest benefits of clipless pedals is the ability to also pull up/back on the pedals while the other foot is pushing down/forward. This makes you more efficient as a rider because it enables you to truly pedal in a circular motion versus simply stomping on the pedals.

12-03-2012, 01:16 PM
Hi Tradetek :-D

You are completely correct, but for me it's a skill that is had to learn though I think it is slowly improving.

The 2 main reason (from my side) for trying and eventually using these pedals was:
1) Safety issue with the chance of having the leg fall down to the ground and being pulled in below the bike with severe damages very likely to happen.
2) Knee problem which I believe was caused by the constant battle to keep my feet on the pedals during pedaling versus the battle of not pushing too hard with the "return" pedal/foot to keep it from falling of the pedal.
So the powered foot was battling the footthat had to push the other pedal to stay on the other pedal as well.
I also believe that trying to keep the lower leg in a position not normally done all resulted in a knee pain that I suffered after the first 8 day's of test riding.

Luckily the pain disappeared as soon as I changed to these pedals and accompanying shoes.
So all in all I really love the pedals as they also look nice :-D
I was lucky to have shoes and pedals that I could steal from another bike, but I would never use a trike without this type of setup even though the price is quite steep for a set of shoes/pedals (at least in Denmark).
I will slowly purchase 1-2 other pair of shoes as well as new set of pedals for the bike I stole from originally.

It's nice to have the extra/better power benefit to give the icing on the cake :-D

I hope your projects are progressing well and you have good luck in this respect :-D

12-03-2012, 04:37 PM
Yes, it does take some getting used to at first, but it is funny how once you are used to using clips you quickly realize when you are not clipped in!

I tried to ride a bike with regular pedals over the summer and failed miserably because I kept pulling my feet off the pedals on the upstroke and had to concentrate on actually keeping my feet in contact with the pedals just to stay on the silly bike. Eventually I gave up and just got off!

12-03-2012, 10:33 PM
Yes any habit is a big thing to change.

I think on of the easiest habit to change was from normal bike to recumbent trike ;-D

I'm very happy that The Atomic Zombie community exists as it gave me the tools to go this way :-D

12-05-2012, 03:37 AM
Hi fellow Zombies :alien:

Got more miles under the wheels.
Good *** what nice riding.

I started out with all cables just zip tie to the frame wherever needed.
It worked alright but I didn't really like the way it looked.

I needed some more order on the bike.

I used loads of time to try and get a nice and clean look without too any problems in the process.
I was also considering different ways of pulling the cables.

The easy part was the cables.
I have hydraulic brakes so here the hoses must be there no doubt about that.
I like the look, so I decided to use full covered gear cables.
I also had problems finding the cable stoppers needed for the use of bare wires.
OK, I ended up needing one piece which I made in the lathe.

So the end of my internal discussion was that I used all covered cables of good quality so it matched with the hydraulic hoses.

OK then the practical problem of how to fit the cables in a nice and orderly way.
Thought of fitting various small eyes and use super small zip-ties to fix the cables.
Lots of more or less practical solutions was in play but I didn't really feel any was the right solution.

One day I walked around the workshop I saw some old gas welding rods and I got an idea I thought would work out.
The rod was about 3mm thick but softer than most steel and of course easy weldable.

I traced the routing of the cables on the bike and started experimenting a little.

I ended up using a strong welding pliers and bend the end of the routing to 90 degrees and cutting it at about 3mm length.
This was then tag welded to the frame where needed.

The system.
Short piece to see the bend and tack:

Full section below the boom to the front wheel on which the hydraulic cable runs to on of the front wheels:

Rear section with cable installed:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/fccI7uIr3Z1OtWEum_3HZeBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink

I really hope this is at peoples liking and that someone can use this for their builds.

12-06-2012, 09:59 AM
Hi fellow Zombies :alien:

Dooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo, and Dooooooooooooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh again.

Thought I was so clever and that everything was OK.

Got out on a nice trip, that was disturbed very suddenly.

Got my first puncture :-/

It was such a nice day and then pffhhissssss -flompf - pffhhissssss -flompf - pffhhissssss -flompf....................................
Had my tire at about 6 bar and was rolling at around 25km/h.
Then I picked up a small but super sharp and long piece of flint.

So much for Schwalbe and their super punture proof tires.
The trees does not grow into heaven :-/

What did I learn today??
Well it was rather easy to fix the tire/hose once my wif was called and arrived with tools.
What else?
Be smart and remember to bring a small tool kit with the needed stuff.

I have now fitted a small "saddle" bag that I modified so it could be fitted on the main boom.
It's actually a nice little bag as I can also carry a phone some personal ID and other small stuff.
The bag has a quick release and can be easily removed when leaving the bike.
This is the bag:

Here it can be seen below the drinking bottle:

I have later found a small little tool that I appreciate a lot.
I use tubes with ordinary automotive valves which is nasty to bleed with your fingers.
I have found a small valve cap that caps the valve AND have the small tool needed to unscrew the inner part of the automotive valve on the top.
Now I drive with them on all 3 wheels and will never be without this tool and it doesn't even take space in my bag.
Here is an example of the valve cap:

Well after an annoying puncture I still had a very nice ride on the bike.

Next day I wanted an extended ride and needed to get out of the door in a hurry.
Guess what...........................
A flat this time on the rear wheel.
Yeap and this was a flat because the holes in the rim (for the spoke nipples wasn't completely covered at 3 places around the rim.
Should have seen this when fitting the tire but I din't and that sure came back on me :-/
Got this emergency fixed with various tape and band aids to close the holes.
I have later fitted a new rim tape that for sure is sitting correct :-D

Have a nice day :-D

12-06-2012, 11:14 AM
I feel your pain. I use Kelvar belted tires with additional tire liners see link as well as thorn proof tubes. I have many sharp road hazards and these step reduce the amount of flats I get. My Son's bike has gone a couple years now since the last flat. Me, I seem to get nailed in the side walls.
Another method to reduce flats is shown on instructables.com
I have not tried this method yet as my present tires are not flat yet. I also use a slime like agent I got from the Local Bike shop to seal any leaks to get me where I am going at least.
As to the spokes being too high into the rim I suggest you file them down or carefully use a flap disc to reduce their height to the top of the nipple. Rim strips tend to dry up and then the problem will poke itself through again. You could use a tire liner around the rims as well if your not comfortable with filing or grinding the tips of the spokes.
Just some of the things I have done to keep the tires inflated in my area. We have plants all over the place with long thorns as well as Cactus. Nearly all natural plants in this region have thorn as protection again predators seeking the fluids in their branches. Many have toxic sap as well. So I have a lot of issues keeping tires inflated even on paved streets. Hope this helps you enjoy your rides longer.

12-06-2012, 11:54 AM
Hi darnthedog :-D

I have never tried the "slime" way, but this stupid piece of flint would most likely had penetrated anything but a steel plate :-D

In regard of the latest flat it wasn't the spoke poking into the tube.
I have a double walled rim something like this:
There are as you can see 2 walls in the rim, and the nipple part is in the inner/lower circle of the rim.
So actually this rim will allow a rather crazy over length of the spoke without puncture.
No stupid me had fitted the tape slightly askew and only firing it on the upper sides of the rim.
When the air pumped up the tube the rim tape was pushed into the bottom of the rim.
This was OK for most of the rim where the tape settled in the middle.
At 3 holes the tape was stuck on one side thus not covering the holes completely as it was offset to 1 side of the rim only.
That little exposed edge in the hole caused the tube to puncture after some time.
I can promise you that I have triple checked that the rim tape is positioned correctly :-D

I fully understand your problem, nature can be a merciless opponent in the sport of keeping our wheels inflated :-D

In my part of the world it is mostly small rocks that causes the problem.
Worst of all is flint that can be as sharp a razors blade and is present so may places around our streets and bike paths not to mention if we move into the nature and off road trips.
We also have some nasty thorns, but nothing to the extend you experience.

Hope you will have many puncture free miles on your bikes :-D

12-06-2012, 12:32 PM
Penola, first on the rim tape... don't know what you are using, but I always use simple vinyl electrical tape and double or triple wrap it depending the quality of the rim and then just cut a hole for the nipple.

As for the flint protection, you want some tire liners (http://www.performancebike.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchDisplay?searchTerm=tire+liner&catalogId=10551&cn1=&langId=-1&beginIndex=0&gast=tire+liner&storeId=10052&URL=CatalogSearchResultView&ddkey=http:PBSearchTermAssociationsCmd). They add a tuff layer of rubberized plastic between your tire tread and your tube. The only thing they don't protect is the sidewall. I used to do a lot of mountain biking in the desert and could run over a cactus and not get a flat with these things.

Also look for tires that say they have kevlar in them.

12-06-2012, 01:15 PM
Hi Tradetek :-D

I use some dedicated tape from the local bike shop that he gave me for free when I purchased some other stuff :-D
Actually it is good stuff if only the i...t would remember to fit it correctly when applying the tape ;-D

I've actually never seen kevlar reinforce tires in my area.
I will try with the tires I have already "Schwalbe marathon plus" and hope the best.
I have had 1 puncture since I got them so that is OK.
If I have 1 puncture for each 750km I drive I'm OK.
But lets see how they perform during the winter season.

Thank you for the advice which is much like darnthedog suggests as well.

All the best :-D

12-06-2012, 01:49 PM
You can't beat free. I only mentioned the electrical tape because it used to be that rim tape was not much more than thick cloth athletic tape and we found that for mountain bike riding electrical tape worked better because it would stretch when necessary but not rip under stress the way rim tape did since you tend to run MTB tubes with low pressure for all mountain riding.

Not surprising that MTB stuff is a little harder to lay your hands on in your realm of the world... but you might try checking for cyclo-cross tires which is more popular across the pond. And actually, I guess as I get my mindset into the 20" world kevlar reinforcement probably isn't that common even over here! I keep forgetting that is the ultimate target for these things! Fortunately I already have my front wheels so at least I won't go buying the wrong wheels... ;)

12-06-2012, 11:03 PM
Hi Tradetek :-D

You are soooo right, free is sooooooo nice.
Not all things free are good, but it do lend a certain quality to an item to get it free :-D
I fully understand your suggestion, and electrical tape or the ever so famous "Duct tape" is both good options.

Yeah as you, I also already have my wheels fitted and tested.
I must admit that I cross my fingers a little and hope that it eventually will pay of to have these Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires.
Ohhh and my stupid vanity also like the tires as they look nice, the thread is looking nice and directional (who had forgotten to fit the tire in the right direction a couple of times ???? ;-D ).

The speed ***** is however pushing me to try some really fast and light tires just to feel the difference in weight and ultimately speed.
I have still resisted but I'm not sure I can keep up against the pressure ;-D

Is there anybody in here who have experience with a similar change of tire and the difference before and after in respect of speed , comfort and puncture problems.
I would change from lest say:

to this:

OK no reason to change in the winter season that would be stupid to run slicks on snow covered roads.
Actually I can't wait to get the bike out on the snow but I', on the ship for the next 2 months so in this direction life sucks :-//
But without a job there is no money to pay for my family and my "toys" :-D

As I already have tires etc on the bike I'll keep your comments in mind if I change for some reason or another :-D

12-07-2012, 12:34 AM
Given the weight of the trike, I doubt that the weight savings will make any difference at all.

The biggest impact is the PSI that the tires are inflated to. Higher PSI = less rolling resistance = faster speeds.

Note that higher PSI also = rougher ride, so you might not be comfortable running high pressures anyway...

Also notice that according to the specs on the Marathon Plus, depending on exactly which specific tire you currently have you may be able to run the same pressures as the Marathon Racer anyway.

The biggest difference between the two appears to be that the Marathon Plus has the tire liner built into the tire, and that the Racer comes in a folding model which you don't really want anyway because foldable tires have a thinner, less durable sidewall.

12-07-2012, 12:43 AM
Hi Tradetek :-D

You are soooo right, free is sooooooo nice.
Not all things free are good, but it do lend a certain quality to an item to get it free :-D
I fully understand your suggestion, and electrical tape or the ever so famous "Duct tape" is both good options.

Yeah as you, I also already have my wheels fitted and tested.
I must admit that I cross my fingers a little and hope that it eventually will pay of to have these Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires.
Ohhh and my stupid vanity also like the tires as they look nice, the thread is looking nice and directional (who had forgotten to fit the tire in the right direction a couple of times ???? ;-D ).

The speed ***** is however pushing me to try some really fast and light tires just to feel the difference in weight and ultimately speed.
I have still resisted but I'm not sure I can keep up against the pressure ;-D

Is there anybody in here who have experience with a similar change of tire and the difference before and after in respect of speed , comfort and puncture problems.
I would change from lest say:

to this:

OK no reason to change in the winter season that would be stupid to run slicks on snow covered roads.
Actually I can't wait to get the bike out on the snow but I', on the ship for the next 2 months so in this direction life sucks :-//
But without a job there is no money to pay for my family and my "toys" :-D

As I already have tires etc on the bike I'll keep your comments in mind if I change for some reason or another :-D

12-07-2012, 04:07 AM
Hi tradetek :-D

Got a double posting and didn't see your post until now, sorry about that.

Yes I think you are right in respect of the weight, however any weight less is saved weight.
Just the percentage of weight versus total weight is very small so will I feel it? Most likely not.

Yes there is this puncture resisting layer in the Marathon plus tire.
I just have an idea that this actually makes the surface rather spongy compared to a tire without this feature.
My idea is that running both tires at the same pressure would still leave my tires with a softer surface compared to the Marathon Racers.
How much truth there is to this I don't know.
This is of course a double sided sword.
I like the speed, but i also really like that the tire really grips when I have to brake in the end of the hill :-D
I fairly often do some nice high speed (to me at least) runs where the grip is absolutely a winner on these tires with this slightly spongy surface.
This is really a positive point on the tadpole trikes that you can brake with at least double up the power of braking compared to ordinary bikes.
The feeling when the brakes really bites is just super.

So far I have always run the tires at pretty near 6 bars in pursuit of the speed :-D
This really fine for most of my driving except in the woods or back roads without tarmac/asphalt (hope this is the right words).
Also the warning stripes (rumble stripes I call them directly translated) on some roads are a royal pain in the b... :-D
But hey this is just another reason to build a suspended bike right :-D

All the best and thanks for the input :-D

12-09-2012, 12:03 AM
Hi Fellow Zombies :alien:

Got a few more miles under the belt.
Had a very weird sound the last couple of days when pushing hard with the right foot.
Finally found the culprit.

The new seat flexes a little when pushed hard. This eventually slowed down the rear lead roller.
Now this gave me a sound like if the chain was slipping on a gearwheel.
What to do about this?
Well I machined the lead roller outer diameter 3mm down and have had no problem since :-D

As rollers I used some nylon like rollers actually designed for a lawn mover.
They have ball bearings and a relative soft surface in which the chain fitted with a little work with a file.
The rollers look like this, sorry about the dirt.
This is the rear roller after the diameter have been reduced.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/U6dPWnghHfvNcgvHnjKvIuBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
If you look carefully there are some small indentations in the running surface of the roller.
I have found this as an unexpected advantage of the material.
The chain have made these indentations during running and fits 100% in the roller.
There is absolutely no noise from this arrangement :-DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD

This is the original part that I used, it can maybe be sourced in other parts of the world as well.
Sorry about the danish text, but the spare part number should help :-D (part number: 1134-9027-02)

This have worked fine for me :-D

All the best :-D

12-09-2012, 10:57 AM
ouch, looks like it grooved out that seat abit

12-09-2012, 12:40 PM
Hi River :-D

Actually I must admit there is a groove of 1mm depth at the deepest point, and about 30mm long.
I think the reflections in the seat could indicate a much more severe problem, but luckily it is actually nothing too serious.

I hope that this will last without problems :-D
If it creates a problem I will put a fresh layer of glass fibre.

hope the best :-D

Thank you for the concern :-D
How is it going with your Aurora?
I really like the design of this bike.
I'm constantly thinking about a homemade differential that is affordable and relative easy to build.

12-11-2012, 01:14 PM
Hello fellow Zombies :alien:

More km on the bike and further ideas.
I've been looking around for some reasonable mud guards and a good way to fit same.

I decided relative early to fit a round pipe instead of a square pipe behind the seat.
By doing this I got 2 benefits (in my opinion at least.

I really love the look and style of the warrior build.
I wan't to preserve this as much as possible.
By using this pipe I can fit mud guards and lights normally fitted saddle pipes with quick fit/release system.

I fitted a SKF like this as I have it from another bike where this is still in use:
It served the purpose, but the design was not the best and it resulted in a relative high post behind the seat in order also to fit the rear light above the mud guard.

OK why hassle about this????
Well I have found that with a lower post/pipe I can slip under many of the booms across the bike paths.
So from thought to reality, a lower post than I could use with the first mud guard had to be made a another mud guard had to be found.
I was rather lucky to find this model which is highly adjustable:
Fitted on the bike it is horizontal (guard & support) and super close to the wheel not obstructing the rear light but really doing a good job covering for rear splash.

You should really see the look from the uprights when I speed towards the booms not slowing down enough to stop......................
At the last second I tilt the head to the side and slip under the booms at 5-10km/h whereas they have to slow down to almost a stop to get through.
I laugh all the way to the next city doing my evil laugh MUUUAAAHHHHHHHAAAHAAAA......................
OK I always do a little test run but they don't need to know that :-DD

I have a rear light with light and reflector in 1 unit.
It works OK, but I'm still on the lookout for a better looking rear light.
Just need to find it.

I'm sorry but I don't have a picture of the mud guard fitted, and I can't access the bike at the moment.
I hope the sales pictures and a little imagination will do it for a picture this time :-D

the front is in my imagination, but I haven't found the guard that I can modify and obtain what I want.
I'm still on the search for this and eventually I will find a produce the front set in a way that they are easily removable to preserve the look, and still fast to fit should need arise.

See you later gator :-D

12-11-2012, 02:55 PM
It's just about done just waiting for a cable. trying to figure out my controller for my motor. can't get the throttle to work. I love the aurora, favorite bike now. Your bike looks great, you nwill have a blast with it river
Hi River :-D

Actually I must admit there is a groove of 1mm depth at the deepest point, and about 30mm long.
I think the reflections in the seat could indicate a much more severe problem, but luckily it is actually nothing too serious.

I hope that this will last without problems :-D
If it creates a problem I will put a fresh layer of glass fibre.

hope the best :-D

Thank you for the concern :-D
How is it going with your Aurora?
I really like the design of this bike.
I'm constantly thinking about a homemade differential that is affordable and relative easy to build.

12-11-2012, 03:59 PM
Hi River :-D

I hope you soon get it going with the controller.
As annoying as a problem can be, there is nothing as getting the problem solved and enjoy the product :-DDDDDDDD

I have almost decided to build a lightweight Foxy Warrior, but the Aurora is really high on the list as well to try a Delta.
You did a Foxy Warrior right?

Well I have really had a blast of a time with the bike so far.
OK i must be honest this build really means so much to me.
I'm sure that this build helped me get over a lot of the problems after the accident (I would still manage without the bike but it really helped me get through the crisis faster and easier).

Good luck with the project :-D

12-11-2012, 09:33 PM
I did a warrior with a amp hub motor and a warrior with a rear suspension. I guess you can call it a foxy warrior. I found it easier to have the suspension on the warrior, it was easier build to me. love my aurora, was a easy build just more expensive but worth the money. not sure whats next.

12-12-2012, 12:12 AM
Hi river :-D

Writing this the 3rd time now, the connection out here on the sea is very poor and fails to transmit data very often :-/
It's just me that decided that a combination of the StreetFox and the Warriour is called a Foxy Warrior, but you caught that without problems :-D
Yes the next build is clearly always a problem, which to chose and what to do in respect of personal touches to the build :-D
The next problem is of course were to store the loved ones :-D

I really prefer the Warrior front to the Fox front.
The Warrior is one sleek and nice looking front and I really love the underseat steering though it's slightly more complicated to setup compared to the Fox direct steering.
How did you combine the 2 bikes?
Just cut the warrior behind the seat post and fitted Fox plans behind that point?
Did this give you any added length to the bike compared to the original Warrior?

All the best and thank you for your input so far :-D

12-12-2012, 09:47 AM
I kind of just had the warrior frond end with seat and just added from the to make it work. I had the main boom longer under the seat so i made sure i had enough length to fit the pivot, suspension and spring support. Then just installed the pivot where it would work with the seat support( spring mount) There a few guy on here that did that and it works out great

12-12-2012, 11:48 AM
Hi river :-D

This sounds just like I have planned it, at least initially.
I'm however still playing with some alternative rear suspension.
He-he this build and doing it yourself have really gotten to me.
Now lets see how much I end up getting on the street.

12-12-2012, 01:03 PM
Hi fellow Zombies :alien:

I'm about getting there.
Just want to share a couple of pics from when I go out test ridding.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/uD4Prd2jL9twuk1q_x_P4OBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/n1AGNK9VwVl8bEnLypfq0uBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink

As you can see the dog is a faithful helper and she have approved the bike :-D
I actually take her for the ride once an awhile and she loves it.
The Warrior design let her run close to me and I can reach out to scratch or pet her when she's behaving nicely.
She prefers this bike to the DF design any day :-D
I also feel a little safer as I can easier keep her attention and she can't pull me over as have happened once on a DF bike.

Actually I'd better not work on the bike in floor level when she's around.
She doesn't stop begging for a ride before the ride is finished :-D

12-14-2012, 01:06 PM
Hi fellow Zombies :alien:

I'm about getting there :-D
I just finished the front tube with a rounded plate slightly wider than the original tube.
Then the bracket can't be moved to far forward even if loose.

I also did a last second change on the wheel supports.
I have designed my own bits and parts here.
They are rather different from Brads design, and though they really work fine they have always a little disappointing in the looks department.
I hoped my design would prove really nice, but again, it didn't really fulfill my expectations.
The result in the beginning looked like this:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/7izXxo_xaERyCwErpoJ6qeBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/8chmG5fm8s0dsF4nVIZqPuBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink

The pieces "sticking" out behind on both sides/ends are designed to carry the fenders once they get finished.
The idea is that the fenders are easy to removed with a set of finger screws so I can keep the clean look except when needing the fenders.
Kind of like a quick release for the fenders. This is however a job for the future :-D

But hey I got an idea :-D

I drilled a few holes in the original to save a little weight but it didn't look so good.
Suddenly I thought what about removing much more material??????
I took the chance, and here is the result (after paint though).
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Kpa-dCC4pY9PEi463dAZkOBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=direc tlink
The ends are by the way also used to guide the hydraulic hose on their way from caliber to frame to keep the cable routing tidy :-D

I hope you like the result though the pictures aren't the best quality.
Anyway I seríously think this improved the look of this area of the bike several times :-D

After I removed all the material the bike was ready for paint.

So the next posts should start dealing with the assembly and there should be some colors on the steel as well :-D

12-16-2012, 04:17 AM
Hi fellow Zombies :alien:

Frame finally painted an lying upside down ready to do some work.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ICcl9TCyZcNyd6kE1rGQ4OBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink

As you can see there is the bike computer pipe in the front, and the pipe for the seat/fender/light in the rear.
I will return when I get a little further and more time to continue the final assembly :-D

All the best

12-16-2012, 10:12 AM
Hi fellow Warrior Zombies :alien:

I have sinned against the general Zombie spirit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I got the bike painted by a professional painter.
Why did that happen?

Well this kind of relate to the whole project and what it meant to me.
As you know I was involved in the terrible accident that really set me back and caused some severe problems in my life and to my family and friends as I was not fit company for anyone.
I started the bike as a therapy to get over my problems together with psychology advice's etc.
I was advice to only do positive things that could improve my mood.
I decided to include the Warrior project and see where it brought me and if it could help me.

Well I must say that the bike have had a very big part in my recovery from the down period.
It have been a very fine help to get my mood away from bad things.
Besides that I have found a real and seldom joy in riding the bike having some really nice trips where i enjoy the trip and the development of the bike :-D
I actually discovered several new things about riding I never thought about.

For example a ride in the early morning did give me a completely new experience with respect to smell of nature.
The smell is soooo much stronger when riding with the nose so close to the road side (nature, in the woods etc.).

Well as a consequence of this I have been much more taken to the bike that I never thought would happen.

Well one thing took the other and I have used much more money and much higher quality parts than I expected and now to the paint job of my "precious".

I decided to go all in.
I found a color from VW called "VW hot orange" which I liked but it wasen't possible to paint as it is a special kind of paint that changes color in between almost yellow to almost red depending of the sun influence.
Here are there to links showing the effect on a car though :-D


I just couldn't help it and made an appointment with a painter who could manage this job.
All loose parts was painted in a high gloss black.

To be honest the parts look really really nice though the weather have not permitted me to experience the sun effect to any extend.

I will continue to tell and show more as I get further in the assembly process.

I hope that this sidestep in the Atomic Zombie way can be accepted as the bike means soooo much to me.
I hope you all think that the result is pleasing to the mind and eye :-D

All the best my fellow builders :-D

12-16-2012, 11:19 AM
I do not see it as a sin to make it look the best you can!
Some of us have used professional welders at times, others have used upholsters, others have used powder coaters, and maybe some one has tried gold plate!
We all use parts made by someone else, even if the someone else is a big factory.
The whole point is-- it is your creation--you decided how it was going to be done, and what it should look like.
So enjoy what you have created. it is the only one like it in the world!
Steve G,

12-16-2012, 11:52 AM
Hi Ticktock :-D

Yes well you are actually right, but I have done most of the bike according to the general Atomic Zombie way :-D
So I kind of felt a little sinful in this respect (also purchased the seat by the way), but I must admit that the paint and the seat did make a very big aesthetic difference and it pleases me a lot to have a nice bike.
I mean that the Atomic Zombie people can see and appreciate the work done to get the bike on the street with whatever solutions we have decided to use during the build.
Most of the public can only see the end result and not the work carried out in the process to get to the result.
Then it is nice to hear from all of the fellow Zombies who do know the work and can appreciate work as well as the end result :-D

But for sure the main goal is to make the best bike for the person to use it.
I am so far extremely happy with my bike, and my wife likes the result in more than 1 way.
She likes the result on the street :-D
She likes that I get extra exercise and are happy about that.
She loves that the bike helped me be a better husband for her as she deserves :-D

Yes this build have been such a success in many ways.
Thank you to Brad, Kat and the whole Atomic Zombie community :-D

All the best and thank you :-D

Radical Brad
12-16-2012, 12:31 PM
Most excellent work, and thanks for the photos and comments!


12-16-2012, 12:41 PM
I agree 100% with TIcktock
There is no sin when creating a bike or trike- We all have our abilities to do what we think we can and what we know we can. The goal is the creation and not how it was created. If you had had every part cut and welded to YOUR specifications then is it still your creation. Some have the money to hire the extra stuff done. Others do not. We all live within the budget we have. And I hope the paint job works out to give you many enjoyable years of use. I will enjoy yours and anyone else creation as it being built and the end results of what I like to call the Atomic Grin. It is the smile we all get when one of us is riding our creations. I look forward to see your heart warming Atomic Creation and the grin we will all get when it gets posted to the Gallery for the whole world to see. And I can hardly wait to see what it next in your building future. Take care and hope you have very happy holidays.

12-16-2012, 01:06 PM
Hi Brad :-D

Thank you very much, and you are most welcome :-D
Well I sincerely like your plans and the community here.
That is worth sharing :-D

All the best

12-16-2012, 01:18 PM
Hi darnthedog :-D

Thank you very much and I do agree that the goal is to make the best of what we each can do.
I am already enjoying the paint job that is for sure.

Oh yes the famous smile, I just reviewed one little video clip in poor quality that I took during my very first ride.
I clearly see that famous smile when I turned the camera towards my face for a short time :-D
I can't upload that clip due to our internet connection or I would have shared for all to have a laugh and a smile :-D

Yes in not so long time I hope I can reveal a much more completed picture of the creation.
Completely finished it will most likely not be, I have some more ideas to small improvements here and there :-D

Thank you for your nice words, and a happy holiday to you as well :-D

12-19-2012, 03:27 PM
Hi fellow Zombies :alien:

Got the bottom bracket prepared for fitting.
I needed to carefully remove the paint on the surface where the bearings are fitted or they will not rest as the should.
Took me a while to get it cleaned up enough after the paint job.
This is how it looks without any items fitted yet.

Then I needed to attack another issue before turning the frame over.
I fitted the steering below, and it looks a little like thishttps://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dv0fmnSHZP9NP5VqtQAf9uBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
I know I have to machine the threaded end a little to make i look nicer and shorter (cleaner look).
This I vil deal with as some of the last jobs.

I do have another potential problem.
I was wondering how my fellow friends have handled this little problem.
The next picture is turned upside down, so you have to turn it in your mind, but I think you all know how this looks in the real reality :-D
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/4FKRQwxXSEMFQCSn_6FjEuBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
My problem is that all water in this area will seek right into the bearing due to the system being turned upside down.

My plan so far is to take a piece of about 2-3mm rubber gasket, cut a circle 2-3mm smaller than the red pipe just above the bearing.
Then another circle about 30-40mm bigger diameter than the first hole.
Then I will force the rubber piece onto the pipe (remove the bearing first).
The I will fit the bearing again and pull the rubber down as close to the bearing as possible.
I then hope to get a little "umbrella" of rubber to keep dirt and water out of the bearing.
Then I can do something similar at the lower bearing as this have the same potential problem.

So how have you folks be solving this, or do you just run it until it the bearings becomes bitchy and exchange same at that time?
I have of course filled the bearing with high quality grease during fitting (I use cobber-grease that is salt water resistant and quite sticky which should help keeping the bearing for a little longer even without the "umbrella".

All the best :-D

12-19-2012, 09:01 PM
Grease is water repellant- If you keep the bearing grease anually you should never have an issue. If you have excessive rain then consider greasing twice a year. But other wise I don't think you will have an issue with your steering tubes. Hope that helps.

12-20-2012, 05:15 AM
Have not tried this myself, but have heard of others doing it---cut a short piece of inner tube, well greased on the inside, and slip it over the open space.
Might work in your case, same at both ends at a guess. The part on the frame can be held with a zip tie if needed.

Steve G

12-20-2012, 12:10 PM
Hi darnthedog :-D

Yes I believe my choice of grease should do the work, but in Denmark we have this darned road salt in the whole winter season that can make any open bearing fail.
It is just that little extra safety I'm going for :-D

I will see when testing my way, or if much better ideas come to the surface in here :-D

All the best :-D

12-20-2012, 12:23 PM
If your concerned about road salt then Grease prior to the Salt season then Pull the bearing and regrease afterwards. Cars-Trains and Bicycles survive the road salts pretty well without issue. The steering tube is not in direct line with any wheels to have the salts tossed into them. And a couple of fenders would do a world of wonders to keep that salt aimed at the ground from all three wheels. It would keep you a bit dryer as well. You don't want to add anything that will restrict the movement of your steering assembly. But I will leave you to it. A little grease smeared on the outside area may also elevate the concerns as it would repel the salty water fairly well.

12-20-2012, 01:31 PM
Hi Ticktock :-D

What a splendid idea, why didn't I think of this myself.
It started my mind and I think I will do like this when I get time and access to the bike again :-D

I hope the picture and text can be seen in this way.

All the best out there, and a happy holiday to all you Zombies out there :-D

12-22-2012, 08:05 AM
Hi fellow Zombies :alien:

Just did one of these stupid things :-/
I fitted the steering bearings for the front wheels.
I thought that a little paint would make the bearing rings sit tighter and better so I tried that, DOOOOOOOOHHHHHHHH
I split the fist bearing ring .................................................. .............

Yes I know, I should have carefully removed the paint but that's life.
It was even more annoying as I couldn't get the same design bearing so i had to use extra time and effort to find a set.
These bearings aren't used so much anymore in Denmark.

Anyway after some bitching to myself about myself I got the stuff in place as you can see below :-D
Yes it was nice to have the bearings in place :-D

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/GpVJ2wRlj5SuFGD93lZAPeBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink

Have a very nice Christmas everyone :-D

12-22-2012, 08:12 AM
Hi fellow Zombies :alien:

Just did one of these stupid things :-/
I fitted the steering bearings for the front wheels.
I thought that a little paint would make the bearing rings sit tighter and better so I tried that, DOOOOOOOOHHHHHHHH
I split the fist bearing ring .................................................. .............

Yes I know, I should have carefully removed the paint but that's life.
It was even more annoying as I couldn't get the same design bearing so i had to use extra time and effort to find a set.
These bearings aren't used so much anymore in Denmark.

Anyway after some bitching to myself about myself I got the stuff in place as you can see below :-D
Yes it was nice to have the bearings in place :-D

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/GpVJ2wRlj5SuFGD93lZAPeBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink

Have a very nice Christmas everyone :-D

12-22-2012, 09:44 AM
Hi Penola,
Have you ever thought about making your Picasa album viewable to us, rather than having to link every single picture via this thread?
I enjoy looking through people's albums in Picasa to see their projects...
When I check your photos on Picasa I get "...Sorry, that page was not found...."


12-23-2012, 01:13 PM
Hi Bambuko :-D

NO I haven't thought about that.
When I have finished the assembly story I will look into the problem :-D
But I'm not sure I get it working until February or sometime around that month.

All the best an a Merry Christmas to you :-D

12-23-2012, 02:25 PM
We all make those mistakes once in awhile. sometimes your over anxious to get it done and that will lead to little mistakes. I have to admit I sure made my share of mistakes You just have to learn from them. it's just being human. Your bike looks great

12-24-2012, 08:16 AM
Hi river :-D

You are right, "Hast værk er lastværk" translate to something like: Being to hasty is resulting in sloppiness and mistakes.
Eagerness is not always the best :-D

But I sure learned from this fault, so that one I don't have to repeat.
On the other hand there are no reason to make all faults myself, I can also learn from others mistakes ;-D
So I try to share my faults if thiscan help another person to avoid the same problem.
That is a real beauty about this forum as there are so much valuable information flying around when reading posts :-D

Thanks a lot, I hope you like it when it is finished with paint etc. :-D

Merry Christmas to you and your family :-D

12-24-2012, 05:06 PM
Hi fellow Zombies :-D

Merry Christmas to you all, and may your bikes always stay true and bring you joy :-D

12-25-2012, 01:27 AM
Sounds much like our English saying "More haste, less speed"
All the best for Xmas ,
Steve G,

12-25-2012, 08:32 AM
Hi fellow Zombies :alien:

Now the first part of the steering is assembled (still missing the sealing of the 2 upside down bearings, but this have to wait a little).
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dv0fmnSHZP9NP5VqtQAf9uBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
I will also make a nicer finish on the threaded part one way or another.

I'm so nervous about causing any damages to the paint job :-D
The paint color change is part of the designed color change effect in the paint :-D (see at the boom weldings it looks more yellow here than on the rest of the frame)

I also got the steering fittings in place after the bearing issue.
I hope this will work out fin with the modified design but it sure looks nicer in my opinion.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/GpVJ2wRlj5SuFGD93lZAPeBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink

Started the next part by fixing the good old rear wheel (remember the puncture issue and monkey fix some time back).
Fitted the wheel in the frame as well as the 2 front wheels.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RDjkkZAYXY8RbHpCM2m5WOBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/28U04EE-kYlU3C15uQFdkeBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=directlin k

Here you can see the rear frame as it looks in finished condition.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/g3jniMXKlMU6npcmBjyQveBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
Im quite happy with the modifications, they seem to work as intended without completely destroying the lines of the frame.

As you can see I also fitted the bike computer just to see how it looks, and I like that :-D
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/oQMeHbG8hQRusAhoKF3YmeBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
This computer requiered a pickup for the rear wheel which I could have fitted with strips around the frame, but I decided to ad a small pipe to the frame so the computer could be fitted here with a less obvious fitting compared to the strips around the main frame.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/GdsOxsQ2s1vFW_fMLNBUyOBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
If you compare to the picture with the view of the computer and frame from rear left side the computer pickup position is reasonably concealed from the normal everyday look at the bike.

OK, got to have a little time off, needs to attend Christmas arrangements :-D

All the best and a merry Christmas to my fellow Zombies and everyone else out there :-D

12-25-2012, 12:15 PM
Hi fellow Zombies :alien:

Just looked and my pictures in the latest post.
I fixed the rim tape after the puncture, and in my hurry i fitted the tire with the thread in the wrong direction :-/

I have now removed the wheel, fitted the tire in the correct direction and refitted the wheel.

Now its time for a good meal I think :-D

12-25-2012, 12:24 PM
Hi fellow Zombies :alien:

Just looked and my pictures in the latest post.
I fixed the rim tape after the puncture, and in my hurry i fitted the tire with the thread in the wrong direction :-/

I have now removed the wheel, fitted the tire in the correct direction and refitted the wheel.

Now its time for a good meal I think :-D

12-25-2012, 02:26 PM
If you had not said anything I really did not notice. In fact after relooking at the photos I still cannot see an issue with the tires. Are you sure your just not having a little too much holiday cheer? Just kidding. At least your finding the little mistakes before hitting the road again.

12-25-2012, 04:26 PM
Hi darnthedog :-D

I just wish I had a little too much Christmas cheer, but where I am now this just doesn't happen :-/
I guess it isn't too important to fit the tire correctly, but it is directionally and also looks better in this direction.

Here is a picture where the fronts are fitted correctly in my opinion at least :-D
Maybe this picture is clearer.
If nothing else then at least front and rear should be the same direction.

Anyway, as you said I found the small stupid fault before I got the baby back on the road.
To be honest I'm sure this is just me nit-picking here, can't help it though it my precioussss!!!! :-D

01-01-2013, 08:59 AM
Hi fellow Zombies :alien:

Finally got around to a little more Zombie work :-D
As I left last time I had the rolling frame and the tires fitted correctly (stupid me) :-D
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/28U04EE-kYlU3C15uQFdkeBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=directlin k

What have happened since last?
Well I got one of these brain farts that always end up being expensive.
I decided to use stainless bolts, nuts and washers all over the place.
Mostly not so bad, but the front wheel axles was a true *****.
Geee I didn't think they was that expensive, but I must have struck luck, or maybe my charming personality ;-D, who knows but I got them to below half price which softened the blow quite a bit.
I used these babies in the beginning:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/VLg6NuSrhZQjIsV5CMADpeBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
Now they look like this:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/3P2BttUTr6FLlWh2lnDV5OBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
I did machine the heads a little to remove some of the sharp edges should I hit anything going through a door or something like that.
Another benefit is that the head is a little "lower" in profile so I think I saved about 2cm overall width without changing any geometry :-D

I did decide to but bolts etc. by the box (the the wheel shafts thought ;-D), this is expensive but now I'm ready for the next many builds as well :-D

I got the bottom bracket in position as well, that really improved the look of the bike quite a bit I think :-D
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/olS4tXtK5bQWprDSV0rMpeBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
Here you can see it from the other side and you can see throught the hollow crank.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/uqEMesIhVQsgjjDHbuFKWuBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
Looks a little weird (and cool), but truth to be told I clearly see a much much better crank set with this design.
You can also see the end of the cable support for the front derailleur.
Actually you can also see the pedals that I've grown so fond of.
One side flat for normal shoes, and 1 side to clip into with special shoes (which I use on almost all my rides now).

Oohhhhhh darn, the internet is unresponsive again, I'll send this and hope it gets through our satelite :-/

All the best, I'll return when better connection is available.

01-01-2013, 11:10 AM
I love stainless steel to but its alittle out of my buget. i use plated hardened bolts. love your peddles. Those aren't cheap either when you include the shoes. I should invest in those before i hurt my self slipping off the peddles, Bike looks great , Have a great 2013 and keep the wind to your back

01-01-2013, 12:34 PM
Hi river :-D

Actually it's also out of mine, but I was lucky.
I could help some guy's doing some truck driving with crane and other slightly special stuff.
Instead of getting money I was able to get most of the stainless steel via their company at a much lower price compared to what I normally see :-D
Yeap sometime luck smiles at you :-D

Well, yes the peddles are slightly more expensive as such, but not too much.
As you say the shoes cost a lot.

Here I was also lucky to find a good set of shoes at 50% off which helped, but I actually had the peddles and shoes before this project.
I used the set on my MTB before I knew about this fabulous world of Atomic Zombie.
But after a few test rides with ordinary peddles I decided to change to this system which was such a huge advantage that I will never ever build any trike if any recumbent at all without this system.
The safety is paramount or we can't enjoy our rides :-D
Second of all my knees hurt in the beginning but this completely disappeared when I changed the peddles :-D
So many benefits that it for me completely out weight the disadvantage of price.

Honestly I really think you should buy the peddles as a beginning and then start looking for the good deal on the shoes.
The peddles works OK for normal shoes so you can use then until you get the good deal.
Ohhhh, try to get MTB or touring type shoes.
They are designed so you can walk/run with the shoes in the forest or alike places.
The benefit is that you can walk freely in these shoes while shopping or visiting people.
I have recently found these and they together with a true winter boot are very high on my wishlist.
I have no connection to the shop just wanted to show the model/style.
To this price I want to buy a pair if they fit me when I try them out :-D
Actually these shoes are quite much cheaper than more race like shoes.

Thanks, it's coming along alright I think :-D

Yes tail wind should be a right for all bikers :-D

Have a nice and prosperous 2013 as well :-D

01-01-2013, 02:03 PM
Check out Performance Bike, I've been buying all my cycling gear through them for over 20 years. Shimano SH-MT31 (http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1058309_-1_400034_400009_400096)

The link is a pair of touring SPD shoes for $29.99

They started as a catalog only business, but now have local shops in some areas.


01-01-2013, 03:18 PM
Thanks Tradetek :-D

That looks like a really good price and a nice pair of shoes.
At this price this kind of shoe/pedals should by all means be a very early investment in a much better and safer bike ride.

There are no doubts that each and all of us build the worlds best bikes, so lets enjoy them as much as possible with a good degree of safety as well.

To river
Looks like you can get the pedals and shoes for around 100$ or less in US.
The shoes are a 1 off investment that fit any bike with these pedals that you make in the future or if you upgrade the pedals :-D

The prices and availability is really different between US and EU and other parts of the worlds as well.
I'm very sad that I can't get much of the stuff you get to the prices I see in here.

Well never mind, the bike I've done is (to me) worth every penny I put into it that is for sure :-D

All the best in this new year 2013 :-D

01-01-2013, 03:55 PM
Penola, I have enjoyed your adventure with this project, you have a number of cool touches to this warrior. They aren't as easy as many have made it look by their posts here on these forums... mine never got to this stage, I was never content with the way it was coming along... nicely done.

Thanks for the link TradeTek, this will come in handy.



01-01-2013, 04:24 PM
Hi richl :-D

You are most welcome and I like that some people get something from my build.
If you have read it from the beginning you know that this have been soooooo much more to me than just the build.
OK I also admit that the bug have bitten and I really changed through the project of being "just a way of recovery" to a great way recovering and a mega nice project that slowly developed to wht it is today.

there are soooo many nice builds in here, each have their own small details that make them unique and so worth it for the individuals concerned :-D

I think following Brads plans have been reasonable and what I didn't find there I found here in the forums and a little at "Uncle Google".
It have all been a great learning process and given me much I can bring on to other projects.
I for example am not sure I could create what you are doing right now so we all have our strength which we can play.

He-he I sure hope other people think there are cool touches as you say, but it's really hard to do that now with all these nice builds out there.
Actually All my stuff has come from what I thought was usable, smart and practical for my use of the bike.
OK a little have also been done purely because I want the bike to look nice and clean in the spirit of Brads original build :-D

Yes that link from Tradtek looks really good :-D

01-01-2013, 04:38 PM

Great build sir, finding bargains is what its all about..........Never tried the bike shoes & special petals, will have to start looking at them when I detail my bike build out & give them a shot.


01-01-2013, 04:52 PM
Thanks wonderer :-D

Yes good prices are nice.
I'm very sure you'll never regret getting such a set if importunity arises :-D
I find them extremely useful and very safe especially for trikes.
On my upright I once fell of the bike due to these pedals (my very first ride and not used to "click out" of the pedals).
That is not an issue on the trikes or quads :-D

Good luck with your build :-D

01-01-2013, 06:14 PM
Check out Performance Bike, I've been buying all my cycling gear through them for over 20 years. Shimano SH-MT31 (http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1058309_-1_400034_400009_400096)

The link is a pair of touring SPD shoes for $29.99

They started as a catalog only business, but now have local shops in some areas.

Thanks that's a great deal River

01-01-2013, 06:19 PM
Your Right Penola It a small investment for safety good price. I have clip on pedals i just need the shoes Thanks for Sharing
Thanks Tradetek :-D

That looks like a really good price and a nice pair of shoes.
At this price this kind of shoe/pedals should by all means be a very early investment in a much better and safer bike ride.

There are no doubts that each and all of us build the worlds best bikes, so lets enjoy them as much as possible with a good degree of safety as well.

To river
Looks like you can get the pedals and shoes for around 100$ or less in US.
The shoes are a 1 off investment that fit any bike with these pedals that you make in the future or if you upgrade the pedals :-D

The prices and availability is really different between US and EU and other parts of the worlds as well.
I'm very sad that I can't get much of the stuff you get to the prices I see in here.

Well never mind, the bike I've done is (to me) worth every penny I put into it that is for sure :-D

All the best in this new year 2013 :-D

01-02-2013, 01:29 AM
Hi river :-D

Yes that is a nice deal :-D
Let me hear your report if you get such a pair of shoes :-D

Good luck :-D

01-03-2013, 01:30 PM
Hi fellow Zombies :alien:

OK, a little more done now :-D
I got my brakes and the hoses routed for same.
I used hydraulic brakes as I had an idea that the routing would be easier with hoses than with the more limited possibilities with mechanical wire brake system I have seen used in the plans.
This is the look of left and right brake systems.
In my humble opinion I think that the hydraulic hose solution have opened some good options to get the routing a little bit cleaner than I have seen on many factory produced trikes :-D

Here is also a picture from the front, sorry about the grease not been cleaned of before the picture was snapped).
This disc is very light but really noisy when braking hard (actually I low the loud rumble when "pulling the anchor" at high speeds :-D).

I also got the rear deraileur and cabling for same fitted.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/fccI7uIr3Z1OtWEum_3HZeBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink

That's about it for this time :-D

Getting closer :-D

01-03-2013, 07:03 PM
You been a busy beaver, love those hydraulic brakes . how the weather there

01-03-2013, 10:02 PM
First Shoes: River if you follow up on those, keep in mind that most clip-less shoes are more accurately sized to EUROPEAN sizes, meaning centimeters! So they tend to fit a little small compared to your American shoe sizes. You might want to find a foot measuring device in a store that has CM on it.

Penola, love the brakes. Does each one use a separate brake lever and reservoir or did you use a T junction of some sort to tie them together using one brake lever?

Really look forward to seeing you review the brakes in more detail.

01-04-2013, 01:03 AM
i have never heard of hydraulic brakes on a bicycle/trike how much does that cost and who sells them? what are the advantages?

Hi fellow Zombies :alien:

OK, a little more done now :-D
I got my brakes and the hoses routed for same.
I used hydraulic brakes as I had an idea that the routing would be easier with hoses than with the more limited possibilities with mechanical wire brake system I have seen used in the plans.
This is the look of left and right brake systems.
In my humble opinion I think that the hydraulic hose solution have opened some good options to get the routing a little bit cleaner than I have seen on many factory produced trikes :-D

Here is also a picture from the front, sorry about the grease not been cleaned of before the picture was snapped).
This disc is very light but really noisy when braking hard (actually I low the loud rumble when "pulling the anchor" at high speeds :-D).

I also got the rear deraileur and cabling for same fitted.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/fccI7uIr3Z1OtWEum_3HZeBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink

That's about it for this time :-D

Getting closer :-D

01-04-2013, 02:21 AM
Hi river :-D

Well not as much as I want to, but my precious is progressing :-D

We've had some snow and down to -15 degrees Celcius but right now it's grey, rainy and around 0-8 degrees.
Rather nasty weather for ridding, I prefer either dry weather or snow to this ever wet and cold time :-/

01-04-2013, 03:10 AM
First Shoes: River if you follow up on those, keep in mind that most clip-less shoes are more accurately sized to EUROPEAN sizes, meaning centimeters! So they tend to fit a little small compared to your American shoe sizes. You might want to find a foot measuring device in a store that has CM on it.

Penola, love the brakes. Does each one use a separate brake lever and reservoir or did you use a T junction of some sort to tie them together using one brake lever?

Really look forward to seeing you review the brakes in more detail.

Hi Tradetek :-D

Yes with regard to the shoes they are mostly smaller by 1-2 sizes compared to your usual size.
As Tradetek is saying you need to compensate for this.
If you can find a place to try out some various pairs to establish your sizes in bike shoes then this is a very good idea.
I'm up by 1-2 sizes depending on the shoes/maker/model I have tried.

I gues my smiley says it all :-D
OK, I think that there are a very big difference in the various brake systems hydraulic as well as mechanic versions.
I have not tried the BB5 that is used so much here so I'll keep away from any comparison here and just list a little info and my personal experience.

Here is a review and pictures of the individual parts Yuo can google the model a little more if want:
the reason for me to buy this set was the very sleek line of the handle and hydraulic pump system as I believed it would look good and be an easy install.
I looked at a lot of different brands and models at the local bike shops before deciding.
The second and most important feature was that the hydraulic connection to the caliber is a "banjo" bolt (i hope this is an understandable term in english), which allows me to turn the hose a lot to aid the routing out of the caliber so I could get same or almost the same angle at the hose and not leave a hose pointing down etc.
You can see on the pictures from yesterday how it worked out for me :-D

I had worries if the hydraulic system would work for me as the physical position/angle of the lever is quite different compared to a normal bike.

The install was very easy, I got the hose routing done to my liking, the handle bar fitting was very easy as well.
I shortened 1 hose without any problems here either.
There have been no problem at all with the function of the brake hydraulics even though I have the different fitting compared to normal on the handle bars.
I did spend quite some time setting up the caliber as it have floating pistons which makes i a little more tricky to set up (the trick of clamping down and tack weld like you can do with mechanical brakes can't be done here with 100% success).
I did set it up with 1 brake system for each side as I don't think the piston would deliver enough liquid to supply both sides.

Riding experience:
I don't have much experience with disc brakes but compared to any other system I have tried this is such a joy to use.
The stopping power (using 180mm rotors with the 180mm adapter on the caliber fitted so I can change up or down in rotor size if I want to without having to hack the bike) is just plain awful :-D
1-2 fingers and gentle pressure and the speed just disappears so fast that it's almost scary :-D
I have such nice braking power and they are so easy to control that it's just out of this world.
I compliment Brad for the steering geometry as I can easily brake a little on one side with only a little brake steer when signaling for turns etc.
Actually I prefer this as it aids me down hill that I can brake steer a little in the corners.
besides that the modulation between the 2 sides are ever so easy to control, and as worried as I was for the problem of to individual systems for each side then I will never look back after fitting this system.

I have (after the final adjustments) not had any noise problems, and the every day riding have for me just been soooo nice :-D
I have ridden around 700km testing before the paint job and they have just worked so nice for me.

All in all was it worth the money to buy hydraulics???????
As I haven't tried the mechanics it's hard for me to say, but I will not try them either as this is the best I believe I can get for any reasonable amount of money-
I have been considering to buy some 3-4 sets of this model as they are just soooo good for this bike style and my riding.

I have later learned that the do come in mirrored versions if that is an issue.

Sorry for the long stoy :-D

01-04-2013, 04:23 AM
Hi socialtalker :-D

The set I have used which is quite good quality and good bang for the buck as they say in various test is not available anymore in my area.
This is a link to a EU store for price of a similar (new model) set, how much they cost in your area I don't know, but google around for prices :-D
This price is around 210 us$ but that is in EU, prices vary a lot I think and you might find much better offers on Ebay or alike.
This set is with ICE technology (extra cooling of the brake pads), you can get the same set without this feature for a little less money.

Well In my reasoning i think following is the pros:
Cable (hose) routing is very easy and on some models with the banjo fitting at the caliber this is really flexible (and 1 of the 2 main reasons I did hydraulics from the beginning)
Greater stopping power with same finger pressure (I've never had this much power before on any other bike I have tried, and that is with better control as well)
Modulation of brake power is better (it's so easy to adapt the stopping power to need or sudden bad traction due to sand on the road etc.)
Less mechanical parts exposed to weather and salt spray from road thus less chance of malfunction
Some of hydraulics have a better cooling effect (less fading) during long down hill racing (this is also related to the rotor/brake pad combination)

Slightly higher price (all depending on models etc. but around 1/3 higher price isn't to far off I think)
When home building the fitting might be a little more problematic but I have only done hydraulics so i'm not sure, and for me it was not so bad
Bleeding can be a problem I have however never had to bleed mine and Shimano seems to have made a really easy system so this have never been an issue for me

Much better stopping with less chance of malfunction compared to a little higher price.
I have no doubt that I praise the added safety on my ride very high :-D

OK again i made a short story long, sorry about that friends :-D
I hope the info is useful for my fellow Zombies out there :-D

01-06-2013, 09:37 AM
Hi fellow Zombies :alien:

Getting through to the last steps before my precious is ride able again.
I need to get chain and chain return pipe fitted.
The seat also need to be fitted.
All cables and other loose bits are to be fitted and tidied up a little.

I got the pickup for the rear wheel (bike computer for speed measuring as backup to the GPS).
In the beginning I just had strips around the rear fork, but to be honest it did spoil the look a little so I fitted a small pipe below the frame to hold the pick up and keep the rear fork looking ''clean".
This was the result:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/GdsOxsQ2s1vFW_fMLNBUyOBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink

I have earlier played around quite a bit with the return tube.
I used black thin walled plastic tube and bend 2 pieces of stainless steel to fit the purpose (they are old mud screen supports from a scrapped bike).
As you can see the design keeps the return and power chain in line, and the return tube/holders keep the power chain in position even at very hard bumps where I before have had the power chain drop out of the guide rollers.
OK I still need to bend the rear just a little tiny bit more but that will be for another day :-D
Front roller tube mount:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/QCuM_pEcGWM3z4HLFdD3mOBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
Rear roller tube mount:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/U6dPWnghHfvNcgvHnjKvIuBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink

Yes I had to do it, I fitted the seat.
I'm really happy about the result of the seat.
It looks and feels better than my test seat but they are actually soooo close in angles and sizes.
Only the lower seat part is about 50mm shorter than what Brad suggested in the plans and what I rode with for a long time.
I also raised the seat by about 30mm
My test seat:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Qw6OjkNt2f_ci_lHCHYDEOBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/I2dlEILcpsD8PXCkbE70RuBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
Seat fitted in position:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/I2dlEILcpsD8PXCkbE70RuBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink

I also got the pump, drinking bottle cage and the small tool pouch fitted.
The tool pouch is fitted with a quick connection and can be removed in seconds and brought into shops or alike if you carry phone or keys etc. in the pouch.
The bottle cage became full carbon just to keep it black, the others I have seen tried started peeling and showing unwanted colors, so I had to bit the dust and pay premium :-/
OK i survived and like the look so we better change :-/ to a :-D
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/XpHbvHtWwqb2rH3InGKm4eBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink

Then I tried to fit the cables in a reasonable tidy way without hampering the function, this was done with the "cable guides" I made instead of pulling the cables inside the frame.
Here is a few pictures of the cables, and I only have 1 that annoys me (front derailleur) but this one I think I will cut and maybe fit 1 of the 90 bends that is used for the brakes.
I just need to work a little more on this another day :-D.
I'm sorry bt there are a few repeats of photoes that have been used other places in this thread, but I put them here for the cabling explanation.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/uCgyr1lPh69krwyglZEi8OBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/fccI7uIr3Z1OtWEum_3HZeBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/4a-DQ5y38tNEFhA2s3xNjeBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=dire ctlink
(Repeat from above for the front deraileur cable) https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/XpHbvHtWwqb2rH3InGKm4eBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
I think I got a reasonable clean underside for a trip in the forest :-D

I have just been called to work and I fitted the last bits late last night and I have to leave in 2-3 hours and still have some packing to do.
I will however still take the baby out for a little show so you at least can see the baby before I lave for work and can't reach the baby before start of February or maybe later.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/wPckQfM9NjggCwftzvHSseBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink


https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/5osIk-4YzUI6L5soUiqjIeBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=directl ink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/BlMUftIv4YoKC42S6PH0OOBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/zk46OhxFn5GrETEaoWulOuBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/1CMXsUMpdTgzpBtQrnkw9uBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink
Yes the doggie can't wait to get me home and out riding again :-D

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Q-idaL9OWCc0ZOIMmcvN4uBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=dir ectlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ykNHRUdDm6Ocnxt4nZL6suBEkaPZ39B58IWm7whQCZw?feat=d irectlink


I'm sorry about the quality of the pictures that I inserted, they do look better on my computer.
I'm sadly not allowed to upload any bigger files :-/

OK, now the bike will have to wait until I get home again.
I do still have a few things to finish and develop a little more :-D

Baggage carrier (removable with fender and light only fitted to seat)
Steering rods need to be redone as I didn't get the correct material before I left home
Front derailleur cable clean up

And there will most likely come more things as I continue thinking about the bike that helped me fight back after death accident.

Did i get to ride her in her new "clothes", no i still have the first ride in paint waiting for me.
Believe me everyone, I just can't wait to get home and find a day to go out with the bike, the dog and the camera and my wife to celebrate this bike.

Thank you so much to Brad, Kat and all my fellow zombies who have helped me getting to this point.

But don't worry I'll be back before you know it :-D

01-06-2013, 11:33 AM
Thats one sweet ride

01-06-2013, 12:00 PM
Bravo Penola! Isn't it enjoyable standing there looking down at your bike knowing it was just a pile of steel and scrap parts not to long ago. You are part of a group of those who "create" something. You are a doer, not just a dreamer. Congratulations and great bike.

01-06-2013, 12:26 PM
Hi river :-D

Thanks a lot, and to be honest I am proud of my achievement so far :-D

All the best

01-06-2013, 12:31 PM
Very nice looking machine. I love the look of these trikes. Mine's hanging on the wall right now as a piece of art. Too much snow to ride:(

You created a beautiful ride Penola.

01-06-2013, 12:38 PM
Hi Graucho :-D

It is absolutely a super nice feeling :-D
As you know there have been even more into this than just the build.
That makes this even sweeter than most people can imagine.
I know a lot of the fellow Zombies are fighting their own battles, I can just say keep on going as it is worth it and you will succeed with determination and help from this forum and persons around you who can and will help.

Thanks a lot and I am happy that you like the bike as your work is of a much higher standard :-D

all the best :-D

01-06-2013, 12:47 PM
Hi Spinner :-D

Thanks a lot :-D

Yes they are a feast for the eye, top design from Brad and other trike designers behind the low tadpole design :-D

Spinner your bike is a true piece of art and deserves to be displayed :-D

I dream of snow when I get home and the a set of studded tires!!!!
Play time big time :-DDDD

All the best :-D

01-09-2013, 07:21 PM
I used hydraulic brakes as I had an idea that the routing would be easier with hoses than with the more limited possibilities with mechanical wire brake system I have seen used in the plans.

Congratulations on the excellent build.

I'm considering hydraulic brakes for my warrior too. Could you let me know approximately how long the hoses need to be? I wonder whether a standard 'front' will reach adequately.


01-10-2013, 01:18 AM
Hi adrian :-D

Thanks a lot :-D

With respect of the brakes I purchased a set containing 1 rear and 1 front.
I did this to save money and this worked out fine.
I also purchased one extra rear hose but never needed it.
I shortened the rear hose and left the front as is, but it was a tight fit and the hose barely long enough.

This goes for my design/hose routing and the length of hose they supplied, if you want it differently then there might be differences in the needed length of hose.
However the hose isn't terrible expensive should you get into problems and 1 extra rear hose will do the trick.
I got the earlier model of this set:
As it can be seen the 1m hose is what I used.
As info my set was delivered with the needed fitting for shortening the hose (a new insert etc. which is cut off from the original brake hose when shortening same).

Remember to check the connection between the caliber and hose as these are different from various models even from same maker at times.
Better select what gets you the wanted design/solution.
Remember that the handle/pump unit is unique for each side, so if you want a clean design of the handle bars you should get a set of rear and front brake.
This give the different look/angle of the 2 calibers.
But you can see the caliber issue in the pictures of earlier posts here.
I know some of the brakes can be found in mirrored version so you have exact same design on both sides, but this is a more expensive solution for sure and I don't think I'll ever go that way.
For me the neat handle bars and the ALMOST same routing of the hose is sufficient for my eye :-D

I really think you will be super happy if you continue with the hydraulic brake system :-D

Feel free to ask if you have further questions and I'll try to help to the best of my abilities :-D

Good luck with your build :-D

03-02-2013, 11:40 AM
hi fellow Zombies :cheesy:

Finally i got home and a few rides under the belt :-)
I also found a little time to fix a little anoying problem.

I have found a nice removeable mud guard that is super easy to remove to fit and remove.
See a few pictures with the mud guard and the rear ligth which also is removeable in seconds :-)

Hmm switch computer as I can't upload from this one.

03-02-2013, 12:45 PM
Hi fellow zombies :-D

OK, better start over, I'm quite irritated about the Picasa beeing changed to google + :-/
OK, found a work around that issue :-D

hi fellow Zombies :cheesy:

Finally i got home and a few rides under the belt :-)
I also found a little time to fix a little anoying problem.

I have found a nice removeable mud guard that is super easy to remove to fit and remove.
See a few pictures with the mud guard and the rear ligth which also is removeable in seconds :-)

Hmm switch computer as I can't upload from this one.

OK, I could upload but not preview pictures here.
I'll try to write according to at pictures I can't see ;-D

Here is a few pictures of the mud guard and the light in position.

I like the system and the function is good without destroying the esign as it can be removed in seconds for the dry every day run.
The mud guard is fine.
Only thing is that some mud is sticking on the frame that needs to be cleaned after the muddy drives, but I can live with that :-D
Th light is not the final version, but the position is OK as the reflector and light is just above the mud guard :-D

More to follow :-D

03-02-2013, 12:54 PM
Hi fellow zombies :-D

I have had some design issues with the cable for the front gear system.
It looked like this, which worked but wasn't soo pleasing to my eye.

I decided to try with a brake cable noodle and see how it works out.
I was lucky that I made the cable holde a little oversize so the noddle fitted without further modification :-D
This is the result and I like it :-D


Yeap this is better for my eye :-D

Next project is a lot bigger as I need to do my bagage carrier but I want to have a removeable version with fitted mud guard and light/reflector.
More to come on this project as it progresses.

All the best :-D

03-02-2013, 01:19 PM
...I'm quite irritated about the Picasa beeing changed to google + :-/...
You are not the only one :mad: but I am sure you discovered by now that you can still continue with Picasa and decline google+ nonsense :1eye:

Nice example of Warrior - look forward to more pictures!

03-02-2013, 02:33 PM
Penola, your warrior is looking really good, those noodles work really well to. Love your voyager build pic's nice job bambuko

03-02-2013, 03:15 PM
...love your voyager build pic's nice job bambuko
thanks river - it's "forever" job :punk: - I have started on it so long ago that I'd probably get a prize for longest running build :stooge_larry:

Of interest to you is the pic showing me cutting a thread on a lathe for the derailleur hanger (it was M10x1, so I didn't have the tap and was not going to spend money buying one :rolleyes4:) - it's good to have a lathe, isn't it?

ps sorry Penola for the usual thread drift ....

03-02-2013, 03:23 PM
Hi Bambuko :-)

Yeap I found the possibility to return to the old Picasa which I seriously prefer to the google+ system.

thanks, there are already some pictures throughout the build but you have to click the Picasa links throughout the thread, I have had many problems attaching pictures due to my work internet is very limiting in what I'm allowed to do.

I can however promise more pictures as my other few projects progress on my baby :-)
I have still a few ideas for improvements :-)

03-02-2013, 03:29 PM
Hi river :-)

thanks a lot, I really love that bike, and I must admit that the whole project have been a super nice experience which was unexpected and a much more positive and fun process than expected :-)

Atomic Zombie and the forum rules !!!!! :-)

03-02-2013, 03:35 PM
Hi bambuko:-)

No problem!
I also love my lathe, it is very handy for many things.
I'm going to use it for the differential that is planned for my next build.
You can see that in another thread in the forum :-)

all the best :-)

03-02-2013, 04:56 PM
...I'm going to use it for the differential that is planned for my next build...

yes, I am waiting with interest on the success of your "diff" - would like to use it on my next delta trike

03-02-2013, 05:27 PM
I agree that the noodle looks great, but can you still move your adjustable bottom bracket?

03-02-2013, 05:52 PM
Hi bambuko :-)

At the moment I'm sourcing a few tools and materials for the diff.
I have the freewheels and freewheel hub now.
So i have started drawing the diff with the right measurements for my parts but haven't finished yet.
The diff is in progress.
Maybe ticktock will finish before me :-)

03-02-2013, 07:13 PM
Hi Tradetek :-)

Yes I can still move the bottom bracket, but not much and only backwards.
the bracket is in the foremost position at time of fix.
I have found that I can move it around 20mm without problems
however I am the only user of the bike at the moment, it's my PRECIOUS......... ;-)
If I need to adjust in the future I can always change the cable/wire and use the old system.

I have found that the estetics is important an the clean look/function is very important for me.
I tend to go a little offroad every now and then and this setup will keep the cable clear of twigs etc. as it was the lowest point of the bike before the modification.
I was also often hitting curbs and alike when aproaching same because this point is in front of the wheels and will not be lifted until the wheels starts to climb the "obstacle".

I hope this explains some of my reasoning (pros/cons) for the fix/change :-)

03-02-2013, 08:24 PM
Glad to hear. It was not clear from the pictures how much slack was in the cable outside the noodle.

Nice job on the trike.

03-02-2013, 09:36 PM
I don't think I will beat you with the diff---have not even got the metal yet.he New year silly season is over here, so maybe I will have a go later, but at the moment I have no bike to put it on (is that a good exucuse?)
Steve G

03-03-2013, 03:01 AM
Hi Tradetek :-)

Thank you, I'm also super happy with the build.
much more than expected that is such a treat to have got to this level.
without the whole Atomic Zombie community this would not have been possible :-)

That is true, and as said there isn't any slack now, but pushing the bottom bracket backwards will generate some slack which there is room for if the movement isn't too much.

I have been using the old system during all the testing and the first riding after the paint was finished.
That left me convinced that this is the right position for me and I could make the modification and keep the clean look for now :-)

To change the cable in the future is also very cheap should need arise :-)

03-03-2013, 03:31 AM
Hi ticktock :-)

Yes Chineese new year puts everything to a grinding stop.
I have called many Chinese ports during that season :-/
most anoying is that everybody promises everything as normal but nothing happens anyway.

He-he not really a good excuse considering that I think you'll make a piece of art that is worthy of a display together with the crown jewels :-)
Besides it looks like there are quite some people looking over our shoulders to see how we get the system working and to see an end result :-)

Ok I'm also very eager to get the project started, but at the moment I need materials that I can't source right now.
Soon I hope for progress i this issue as well :-)

Well I also still need some materials and some tools, and the next 14 days are impossible due to a course that I must attend which is during normal opening hours for all my sources of materials/tools.

well I can continue with other projects for now and return to the diff when the situation allows.
At least I can use and work on the Warrior for now :-)

Have a nice new year :-)

03-03-2013, 10:24 AM
I can just imagine turning up at a Chinese dockside in New Year Season---no one there except the person to tell you all the others went home,
and your ship will be first loaded when they all come back to work next year (but he tells everyone the same thing)
I may be able to take a 25k trip each way on one bike or the other and get some big lumps of alloy, but as I said, I have no bike to put it on, and no space for another bike if I built it. Life is full of problems.
Could just make the diff in case I solve the other problems later.
See what happens ,
Steve G
PS I could have used a diff the other day--tried to go accross a busy street with a left turn involved--road had just been washed-had to keep straightening up just to stop wheel spin, so it can happen when you least expect it.

03-03-2013, 12:19 PM
Hi Ticktock :-)

Well normally we do get the ship handled from the terminal, slower and with delays but done.
however any kind of service deliveries etc. is just a pain in the ...!!

Yes there are always problems with the things life throws at you.
I'll build the diff first and then the bike around it.
Once the bike is finished and the whole bike tested I can make some better drawings and comments for some of the people who are interested in the project.

Yes you could build the diff only and see where that will bring you :-)

Yeap, similar situations and winter weather plus a muddy forest trail is just the reason for the need for increased tracktion.
maybe a new rear with diff. would be a fund build instead of a complete bike?

I just tested the Warrior i the forrest today.
i was stuck several times and had to push the bike up at a particular nasty hill.

I'm sure that the a delta with diff would have save me a ton of problems today :-)

However it was a beatiful ride at the 2 spring day of the year.
temperature around 6 degrees Celcius in the sun but many icy patches in the forest trails where the sun have no power.

Wonderful ride :-)

04-23-2014, 02:17 PM
OK guy's
I have been riding and loving my Warrior for quite a while now.
One problem that have puzzled and annoyed me for a while was the front light.
Of course the light have to be efficient, look good and comply with the latest legislation in Denmark (which is rather crazy).


This is the side where no light have been fitted yet (work in progress ;-D)


Now the fitting and light as well as battery pack have been fitted (the wire coil is sticking out to the right, and I will re-route it later)


Now I turned on the light at low power


Here we have high power, and it looks rather dim right :-/


OK, still high power, this is more like it :-D
So how did this happen?
I have been lucky to find a light where the light is working like a car light where light is concentrated low in order not to blind other persons coming against me on the road.
I will fit the last light and do some more pictures.

I hope someone can use this for something

04-23-2014, 05:05 PM
Sorry, how did what happen other than the fact that you took the last picture from a different (lower and more direct) angle which is getting more direct lighting from the headlight?

Or were you being sarcastic? Sometimes that Dutch humor is hard to figure out :rolleyes4:


04-24-2014, 01:14 AM
Hi Tradetek :-D

no sarcasm intended today ;-)

what I was trying to illustrate was that this light have a reflector that is super good in respect of controlling the light.
this is the fist time I try a light that have this function (on a bike).
it clearly limit the light in the upwards area thus not blinding people looking at the bike approaching.
actually the output is higher than expected considdering the battery side etc.
this is done by having the light concentrated right where it's needed and not spilling into areas where it isn't needed.

I will take some better pictures in the hope to demonstrate this design of light when I get home and have time to play around :-)

04-24-2014, 09:50 AM
Glad to hear it Penola. Sounds like they will work well for you. One thing that you will want to tweak as you get used to riding with them is exactly how far in front of you that you want the concentrated portion of the beam. Try to focus both on the same area in front of you, and probably about 50 feet or so ahead of you, this is best done at night, especially since you can't just reach down to adjust them while you are riding the way you can with a DF.

I used to do a lot of MTB riding at night during the winter (not hard when it gets dark around 6pm) and you will be surprised at how quickly you realize that you don't have them adjusted out far enough to accommodate your speed. Keep in mind that when you turn, they will not be pointed at the same spot, so you will want to fine tune them for both left and right turns to make sure that you can see into the gutters. This will probably be more important than getting them focused on the same spot ahead of you, I just always hated the double cats eye effect ahead of me because I found it distracting, but I've never had 2 lights spread so far apart.

Hope you enjoy your night/dusk riding and have a good one,


04-24-2014, 11:05 AM
Hi Tradetek :-D

yes I still need to deal with the finer adjustment, but I can easily reach and adjust the lights as well as go on high/low power :-D
I only have to reach a little to reach the lights as the fitting point is quite near to my normal reach on this bike.

the turning seems to work out quite nicely as the inner light lights "lower" and the outer light ligts "higher" during the turn.
The thighter the turn, the more pronounced is the effect.
I had a nice feeling of this so far :-)

the only thing that might anoy me over time is that my feet moves in and out of the light beam all the time when pedalling.
On the short trip I've done this was not even closely ruining my joy of finally having light that really works :-D

I will try some more ridding and see if a few pictures will work out to show and tell a little more :-D

all the best :-D

04-24-2014, 03:50 PM
you ca probably resolve that problem by maaking the mounts taller

04-24-2014, 04:25 PM
Hi Tradetek :-D

I have been out again and the experience is very nice.
Increasing the hight of the posts would only help if they get really really high which isn't to my liking.

I have attached a few pictures showing the position now :-D

This is looking at the front from a standing position, as you can see the sit very close to the top of the tire which for me is really pleasing to my eye ;-D

I have a little video here showing a little of the light as it is right now during the 2nd ride out.
The light does appear a lot weaker than it is, I have to admit that a phone isn't the best tools for this job :-D

I hope this explained the setup and result a little better :-D

04-24-2014, 05:10 PM
Something happened to my video, sorry about that :-/

all the best

04-24-2014, 05:41 PM
...Sometimes that Dutch humor is hard to figure out...

That must be your American humour :evilgrin: ... or am I missing something?

What's Dutch about Denmark?

04-24-2014, 08:45 PM
That must be your American humour :evilgrin: ... or am I missing something?

What's Dutch about Denmark?

Oops, guess that's what I get for keeping busy with a migraine... confusing the Dutch with the Danes :oops:

Penola, after your initial clarification I have been right there with you. It's a good setup and I'm glad your happy with it.

Have a good one,


04-25-2014, 01:08 AM
He he, maybe not Humor just an honest mistake :-)
Don't worry, I know Denmark is a tiny contry :-)

all the best

04-25-2014, 05:05 PM
OK, here is one photo I forgot earlier.
It's here very clear that the light is very well controlled so it isn't blinding other persons in the traffic :-D
I have also found that the lights are vissible from the side as well :-D

Today I got out in the nice sunshine and spring time.
Here are a few pictures from the trip where I have left the lights fitted to see how it looks during day light
Feel free to comment.


I love these yellow fields :-D
The also give a nice aroma I must say.

Good wind and weekend to everyone :-D

04-26-2014, 02:05 AM
Looks good. Should give you good service... day or night!


04-26-2014, 05:37 AM
Thanks a lot Bill

I've been really delaying this light project up front as I haven't found lights to my liking & legal in Denmark.
we got new rules lately and this have been making a lot of perfectly good lights ilegal.
this has and is causing a lot of people problems :-/

anyway this is legal and I like it myself, now that is nice :-D

i still need to do some fix on the rear light I'm not 100% ok on that setup right now.
I will continue working and investigating in this area.

next project here is a quick fit luggage carrier for ligt stuff like a jacket or alike for the longer trips.
I have an idea where the carrier also contains rear light and splash guard and is easy removeable.

more to follow when time allows :-)

05-08-2014, 02:13 PM
hvad er det så for nogen lys som du har købt? har det godt!
unskyld om du har allerede skrivet det ...

05-08-2014, 04:11 PM
Hi Freth :-D

I've purchased the "IXON IQ Speed Premium" from "Busch & Müller"
I've got a few family problems, but generally I'm doing alright :-D

05-26-2014, 08:08 PM

Have just read your story in the newsletter.

Nice to read how the process of building your trike helped you through your depression. And what a trke - it looks fantastic.

Thanks for sharing & am sure it'll be a real inspiration to others :)


05-26-2014, 11:06 PM
Your story is very inspiring. Like you I get great satisfaction in building something using my hands. I'm building a Street Fox and I need to find a seat that is comfortable and good looking. Where did you find the one on your trike? I hope my craftsmanship is as good as yours. Your trike looks fantastic! Love that orange color.

Modern man
05-26-2014, 11:09 PM
Hello Penola,
I also just read your story in the newsletter, and so found your worklog for the first time. I really like the color of your warrior & may use it for my own (if you don't mind). Also like the way you created your front axels/brakes/steering linkage, very inventive! You have given me lots of inspiration, now all I need is a little more time since I have most of my parts.

05-27-2014, 12:18 AM
Hi Ian :-)Yes this trike and the whole project was a really big part of getting me back in circulation.Of course my home network, family etc. Have helped me enormously, but getting to build the bike and experiencing the successes by completing the small steps I split the project into.It was what I needed at the time :-)This bike is still a joy for me to ride, and I'm not finished with it, there are still small jobs where I need to complete/tinker a little.Thank you very much for your kind words :-)Yes it is one of the reasons I shared the process.If it helped me then maybe it can help somebody else out there at that would make it even better knowing that another life have benefit of the Atomic Zombie world.All the best :-)

05-27-2014, 12:17 PM
Hi workmap :-)

thank you very much for the nice words :-)

yes it is always nice to create something.
I have always been tinkering, but this is my first bike project ever (building the frame).
I have found the seat at a not so local bike shop.
it is from Optima bikes in The Netherlands, and I got it including their own seat cover which is mega nice to sit on.
the seat feels really nice, and the cover "drains" sweat quite well.
I believe that this, or similar seats can be found in US as well.
I purchase a large seat that very much fitted my version of Brads seat

This is the brand, got large polyester seat with normal padding

as said I think you can get them in US as well, or at least similar.

Why shouldn't your craftmanship be good enough :-)
As long as you feel confident about your result then it is fine!

good luck with your build :-D

05-27-2014, 01:21 PM
Great article in the latest newsletter

I read it with interest keep up the good work

regards emma

05-28-2014, 11:28 AM
Thanks a lot Emma :-D

I will for sure try to keep doing things here and there as time and money allows :-D

All the best to you as well :-D

10-05-2015, 11:11 AM
Thanks a lot Ian :-D
yes it still helps me, and i hope I can take a spin tonight to restore some mental health :-D

10-05-2015, 11:17 AM
Hi mr Modern :-D

you are most welcome, it's an original VW color so you can get a paint shop (automotive) to mix it :-D

thanks about the front wheel suppport, I ended up liking them after the modification :-D

good luck though a little late :-D

Penola :-D