View Full Version : whoops....
Sparky
06-30-2008, 10:07 PM
so i got the derailers mounted up, seemed to work on the stand, took it for a test drive down the street....
noticed one of the front wheels wobbling alot... then saw why. one of my steering linkages broke!
right at the weld too... ah well, i guess i know what i'm doing tomorrow.
kudos for desiging the centerpoint steering, i was able to ride it back home!
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a318/sparky96181/brokensteeringchainrouting001.jpg
TheKid
06-30-2008, 10:17 PM
Looks like you need a little Crazy Glue. Now you know why I use female ends and a solid rod.
jimFPU
06-30-2008, 10:18 PM
Or JB Weld. Maybe speed tape?
Richie Rich
06-30-2008, 10:35 PM
Sparky...is that a solid rod or a tube? I'm trying to see how that broke and how you had it assembled.
<==RR==>
TheKid
06-30-2008, 10:39 PM
Duct Tape!
gbbwolf
06-30-2008, 11:49 PM
Well we know you did one thing right.
If your center point steering held up to get you home.
Excellent.
Rode my wolf hands free today not out of neccessity but out of choice.
LMAO I used female ends and a solid rod also.
Nelson
AtomicZombie
06-30-2008, 11:49 PM
Looks like the weld came away from the nut at the end of the hollow tube? Oh well, make it beefy next time.
Yes, the design allows the wheels to self center, so one will follow the other (around most corners) even without any control.
Looking good - always a few bugs to work out!
Brad
Sparky
07-01-2008, 06:41 PM
right on the money AZ. nut welded to tube, then ground the flats off. it snapped at the weld. no biggie. :)
the reason it snapped was the nut wasnt QUITE straight on the tube, and forcing the rod end into it actually cracked the weld- i saw that when i was painting it.
SirJoey
07-01-2008, 09:28 PM
...Now you know why I use female ends and a solid rod.
Me too. ONE reason, anyway...
http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif
savarin
07-01-2008, 09:56 PM
I weld the nuts into the tube.
Cut the ends of the tube into 6 sections (3 cuts)
Bend the resulting tabs out and force the nut into the tube.
Squeeze the tabs back onto the flats of the nut.
This should leave a gap right on the 6 corners of the nut that can then be welded.
I also thread a long length of allthread in the nut with some plastic tape around the end to keep the nut centered in the tube.
Just have to take care not to weld the allthread to the nut.
The first weld is ok as the thread can be removed from the other end, the second weld has to be totally unscrewed leaving the wrap of tape inside the tube. No big deal.
TheKid
07-02-2008, 12:36 AM
On the Streetfox, I didn't have a solid rod long enough, so I threaded two 6" long pieces of 3/8" rod, one left, one right, for 3 1/2". I threaded two flanged nuts on those, with the flange facing the threads. Then I welded the nuts to the rods, and welded the flanges to a length of 1/2" square tube. The jam nuts and the female tie rod ends followed. Once the wheels were aligned straight, I installed the tie rod, and made minute adjustments for the toe in by simply loosening the jam nuts, and turning the square tube with a 1/2" wrench. I had my neighbor sit on the trike while I made the adjustments, because putting weight on the wheels affects the camber, especially since I installed the front wheels a little too far to the rear.
Richie Rich
07-02-2008, 12:42 AM
I shove headless bolts into the tube and weld them in place. Then use female rod ends.
Never had a break.
...Richie >>
TheKid
07-02-2008, 12:53 AM
Thanks Rich. That's a hell of a lot easier than my method.
Richie Rich
07-02-2008, 01:02 AM
People always tell me I'm simple-minded. :p
<RR>