Marauder Question

[Bunk]

Well I just picked up the Marauder plans the other day and already did a quick read through them. Something that you might want to address in the plans are what size Mountain bike to start with. In the other plans you mention the size but you seemed to miss it in the Marauder. I assume it's the typical 26" rear suspension. Only other thing I noticed was a typo on page 96 just below Fig 96. It reads...."chain must mass under.... should be pass under. Just thought I would let you know.

Great plans as always and thanks for the desktop pictures!:)

Kyle

[AtomicZombie]

Thanks for picking that error up - I shall spank my keyboard and fix it!

Yes, I never use 24 inch wheels for anything, and never will, but I will mention that in the plan. You could actually use a 24 inch if you modified the frame slightly, but with such a lack of decent tires and the lower top speed, there would be no use.

Thanks again,

Brad


Well I just picked up the Marauder plans the other day and already did a quick read through them. Something that you might want to address in the plans are what size Mountain bike to start with. In the other plans you mention the size but you seemed to miss it in the Marauder. I assume it's the typical 26" rear suspension. Only other thing I noticed was a typo on page 96 just below Fig 96. It reads...."chain must mass under.... should be pass under. Just thought I would let you know.

Great plans as always and thanks for the desktop pictures!:)

Kyle

[Bunk]

Brad,

Just wanted to point it out so you can add it to the plans because I know the question will pop up again. Can't wait to get started on the Marauder, I just need to find a donor bike for the suspension. My last ditch will be to buy a new bike at Wally World....aka Walmart. I just have a hard time tearing apart a brand new bike.

Kyle

[Locutus]

A few questions of my own, re: Marauder version 1:

1. The Bike Builders Bonanza says to use a front fork and chain stays for the rear end of the frame. But looking at the photos, it appears to be seat stays that are used. Please clarify.

2. I've selected a head tube and front 20" fork from a Giant brand kid's bike. I'm concerned that the head tube might be too small in diameter, since I'm 200 pounds and the bike will probably weigh about 50 pounds. the head tube measures about 3 7/8" long by 1 1/4" o.d. Now, I realize that most of the weight will be on the rear end with the Marauder, but still...should I be concerned about using such a small diameter head tube in the front end? (See photos, below.)

3. The head tube is 1/4" narrower than the square tube I'll be using for the frame. should I extend the frame a bit past the head tube and just drill two holes to insert the head tub into?

4. I'm using 1/16" wall square tube instead of 3/32" wall (because that's what I happen to have). Any concern about strength there?

5. The forks are pretty straight. should they be bent forward to adjust rake and trail? Or just adjust the head tube angle?

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g292/Locutus59/Workshop/Bikes034.jpg?t=1234225642

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g292/Locutus59/Workshop/Bikes032.jpg?t=1234225745

[Radical Brad]

Hello!

1) Use either if you want. Chain stays are longer and the only reason I was able to find long enough seat stays is because I cut them from an old style lady's bike.

2) head tube diameter makes no difference at all.

3) Cut the end of the tube and just hammer the side walls a bit to narrow them to meet the head tube.

4) You will be fine, but do add the under seat gusset.

5) Your forks will be fine, no adjustments needed.

Brad



A few questions of my own, re: Marauder version 1:

1. The Bike Builders Bonanza says to use a front fork and chain stays for the rear end of the frame. But looking at the photos, it appears to be seat stays that are used. Please clarify.

2. I've selected a head tube and front 20" fork from a Giant brand kid's bike. I'm concerned that the head tube might be too small in diameter, since I'm 200 pounds and the bike will probably weigh about 50 pounds. the head tube measures about 3 7/8" long by 1 1/4" o.d. Now, I realize that most of the weight will be on the rear end with the Marauder, but still...should I be concerned about using such a small diameter head tube in the front end? (See photos, below.)

3. The head tube is 1/4" narrower than the square tube I'll be using for the frame. should I extend the frame a bit past the head tube and just drill two holes to insert the head tub into?

4. I'm using 1/16" wall square tube instead of 3/32" wall (because that's what I happen to have). Any concern about strength there?

5. The forks are pretty straight. should they be bent forward to adjust rake and trail? Or just adjust the head tube angle?

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g292/Locutus59/Workshop/Bikes034.jpg?t=1234225642

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g292/Locutus59/Workshop/Bikes032.jpg?t=1234225745

[Locutus]

Thanks, Brad.
I do tend to over-analyze stuff like this. I appreciate the feedback.

[Locutus]

Thought of something else:

I have 5/16" male ball joints with 5/16" threaded shanks. These are high strength self-lubricating rod ends with oil impregnated bronze race. Marauder plans call for ball joints at least 3/8" in size. Should I anticipate any problems using the smaller 5/16" size?

[comreich]

Thought of something else:

I have 5/16" male ball joints with 5/16" threaded shanks. These are high strength self-lubricating rod ends with oil impregnated bronze race. Marauder plans call for ball joints at least 3/8" in size. Should I anticipate any problems using the smaller 5/16" size?

I wouldn't think so. I have 1/4" rod-ends on one trike and 1/4" ball end on the other. They seem to be sufficient for the punishment I've put them through to date.

[Locutus]

I originally posed the questions below in my build thread. No bites so far and I'm welding it up this weekend so I'm copying the questions here, maybe a nibble today?

Quote from build thread:

I'd like to build the seat backbone for my v.1 Marauder more like the one on the Marauder Reloaded, except no rear suspension. The most obvious differences are that the v.1 seat back tube is only 15" long, while the Reloaded seat back is 19", plus a small shoulder support of maybe 6" or 8". Also, the angle on the v.1 seat tube is 130* in relation to the main tube, while the Reloaded's seat tube angle is 141* in relation to the main tube. The main tube also seems to angle up from horizontal more on v.1 than on Reloaded. These angles might be easier to deal with if I knew the height the bottom bracket is supposed to be from the ground, but I can't seem to find that information. Anyone know?

The book shows a diagram of the V.1 frame that looks as though the seat back would hit the wheel if extended any further. So I'm wondering if I can really make a 19" seat back for the v.1 Marauder.

Those of you who have built v.1 Marauders: Can you look at your machine and tell whether a 19" seat back would have gotten in the way of the rear wheel? If any of you did build a v.1 Marauder with a longer seat back, did you have to make the angle of recline any more upright in order for the wheel to fit? If so, how did that affect the other frame angles?

[Locutus]

Bummer. I went to do some work on my Marauder, and couldn't find my plans book (Bike Builders Bonanza). I may have left it in the hardware store. I think I can proceed anyway because the frame is nearly complete, but can someone tell me the correct position and angle for the front derailleur tube?

Also, I'm trying to figure out the pulley mount. There's a number of ways I can mount the bolt:
1. Weld the head of a short bolt directly to the side of the gusset.
2. Drill holes in the gusset and insert a longer bolt (about 5 inches long).
3. Weld the side of a long bolt to the back of the gusset.
4. Weld two bolt mounting tabs to the back of the gusset and insert the long bolt through holes in these tabs.
What is the best of these?

The pulley itself can be mounted to the bolt in either a fixed position with spacers to align it with the middle of the rear cassette, or can be given some side-to-side sliding room on the bolt, so that as the derailleurs shift through the gears, the pulley will move sideways on the bolt to match the chain line between front and rear gears. Which way is best?

[rickairmed]

Locutus I could probably scan those pages for you and email them to you if you like at least till you find your book again :D.

Rick

[SirJoey]

Locutus I could probably scan those pages for you and email them to you if you like at least till you find your book againBeware, Locutus. There may be hidden fees with this offer.
Be sure to read the fine print!:thinking2:


http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

[trikeman]

My quick scan of the plans in the Bonanza book do not reveal any specifications on where to weld the derailer tube. Just looking at the pictures, I would say its basically above the bottom bracket, but offset to the rear so that its rear is inline with the rear of the bottom bracket. No angle was specified, but on the DW the angle was specified as 67 degrees to the main frame member.

[Locutus]

My quick scan of the plans in the Bonanza book do not reveal any specifications on where to weld the derailer tube. Just looking at the pictures, I would say its basically above the bottom bracket, but offset to the rear so that its rear is inline with the rear of the bottom bracket. No angle was specified, but on the DW the angle was specified as 67 degrees to the main frame member.

Thanks, Trikeman. That 67* angle is probably about right, since the DW is essentially a three wheeled Marauder.

[rickairmed]

Locutus check your email should be three emails from my Insight account for you :D.


Rick

[John Lewis]

Locutus,

I have found that the best way to set the front derailer tube is to set up the bike without it. Fit the derailer on its tube on a length of chain and put the chain between the sprockets. Guess you could use a string line.

Now you can play with the position of the derailer until you get it right. Minimum gap and no rubbing on any position. Note the angle and weld up to that. Gets me better results than just using the arbitary angle when my parts are likely different than the originl.

Hope you get the book back.

John Lewis