View Full Version : NM DeltaRunner

05-25-2013, 10:34 AM
Started building last week after I down loaded the plans. While I'm waiting for parts I've got the head tube striped and cleaned up. Same for the pilot tube and bottom bracket. Got the steel for the frame and axel and got the rear pieces and main tube cut yesterday. Hopefully I'll be able to do some welding today.

05-25-2013, 10:47 AM
Hi from China,'
Sounds like you are off to a good start.
Share the pics of your progress.
Any problems, just shout--almost certain someone here has had the same problem before!
have fun,
Steve G,

05-25-2013, 11:51 AM
Welcome to the fun- Yes please share your work via photos. Also if you have issues a picture is worth a million word of description.

05-25-2013, 11:58 PM
Thanks Folks-I have been lurking for quite a while and I built a Wildcat a couple years ago. This forum is a great wealth of info. I managed to get the caps welded on the frame pieces and filled the holes on the BB and head tube today.

05-27-2013, 10:02 PM
Got the rear frame cut out and laid http://s20.postimg.org/dlq2a412l/DSCN1910.jpgout just ta see what it would look like

05-27-2013, 10:06 PM
Got the caps on the rear frame

05-27-2013, 10:11 PM

05-28-2013, 02:25 AM
Two hints:
1) when tacking take your time and allow tacks to cool before tacking again to prevent warpage. That whole back end has to remain relatively flat. I clamped some of the same sized tubing top and bottom.

2) once you mount the bearings- weld a flat piece of metal making a hard stop against the pillow block. This makes an alignment stop to allow you to remove the pillow blocks for painting and not needind another cold rolled axle to realign the bearings after painting. This trick comes from Ticktock.

Looking good so far. Keep it coming

05-28-2013, 09:44 AM
Hi All,
I have not done this, as I cannot get the pressed metal pillow block mounts here in China--they have no listing, and don't seem to know of them, even with part numbers.
But I was going to do this until I found I could not get them. tack weld the base of the two piece mount to the frame once its in the right place. It won't wear out, even if you do have to replace the bearing . Drill and bolt as usual for the clamping piece. That way your bearing will always go back in the right place.
But do check this is possible as I have not tested this idea. The weld must not interfere with the clamping action --so it may not be possible.
Please post any ideas on this one , as I can' check my own idea!
Steve G

05-28-2013, 10:11 AM
Ticktock- I am not sure the metal of 2 piece is weld compatible. While you provided the idea in another thread I have found that advice used industrially. One of my pieces of equipment I work on added the tabs to 2 points in order to realign the heavy duty pillow block if removed. So it is good advice that I wished I had had when I first built my deltarunner.

05-28-2013, 10:33 AM
Hi Mr Dog,
They should weld OK--listed as zinc plated mild steel pressings, so apart from some hissing and fuming, it should weld OK.
I am more concerned that the weld would stop the two parts clamping on the bearing properly, and not being able to get one means I can't check.
So I just throw the idea out to any one to check if its possible . All the details I can get seem to show that the outer cap fits over , and around the base, except at the center, where the bearing is. This may be the only place it could be welded, and could then be a problem with the bearing. If all fails, then just use my old steel tab trick, because that will still work!
We have used that trick on many things that are supposed to live in the same place all the time, but some one forgot to make provision for it!.
Steve G

05-28-2013, 08:10 PM
Got the rear bearings today and spent some time getting them laid out. I'll start drillin hole tomorrow.

Thanks darn for the welding tips- I need all the help I can get with welding. I really like the idea of a stop welded in place to place the bearings.

Hey ticktock- These are the bearings i ordered. I don't know if you could order them, shipping might kill ya! http://www.ebay.com/itm/380495903706?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

05-29-2013, 09:47 AM
I can buy Cast pillow blocks here for about $9 each, so the extra $25 for postage does make it an easy decision!
Then the possibillty of Customs Duty sort of makes it even easier!
I am sure the light weight ones are here somewhere, its just a matter of finding them!
Steve G,
Joke is , of course, bet yours were made in China!

05-30-2013, 07:21 PM

Got the Bearings installed and everything turns ,rotates and slides the way it should.

05-30-2013, 07:27 PM

I also got the seat bracket welded together and got the the tabs cut out and ready the weld.

The disc brake that I scored on eBay came in today, so I'll also be able to work on the brake hub .

Life is good.

05-30-2013, 08:37 PM
Quick question to verify- Did you use the axle across all 4 pillow block before cutting the axle? I only ask this to ensure your alignment is good. If not aligned properly the wheels won't allow you to run straight down the road or they could make pedaling harder as the bike wheel are toed in or toed out. Just wanted to be sure you followed the plans on this. Hope you did. Looking good and straight otherwise. My first time the whole back frame was U shaped because I did not follow the welding schedule like Brad had suggested.

05-30-2013, 11:18 PM
Hi darn

Thanks for the Question, It's always good to have someone looking over your shoulder. I'm a firm believer in the read the destructions 4 times, measure 3 times and cut once. Then stand back and go oh S**t , did I cut that right?