PDA

View Full Version : Nearly complete new Street Fox



pileit1
05-30-2013, 09:25 PM
Hello all. I'm going about this kinda backwards but here's a couple of pics of my almost complete Street Fox. I'll take some more pics as I take it down for paint.

http://s20.postimg.org/hldyo3clp/IMG_3181.jpg
http://s20.postimg.org/nxt3xxfnx/IMG_3180.jpg

darnthedog
05-30-2013, 09:49 PM
No problem on being backwards- However what is your seat made out of - or is that a purchase seat? Bike look preety good. How does it ride for you?

Ticktock
05-30-2013, 09:55 PM
Hi,
Looks like a nice ride there!
One little tip, which you probably have planed for anyway---on the square tube ends, add an end cap! Keeps the muck and bugs out, and reduces cuts on contact, pluss added strength and looks better.
But you knew that and are just testing that we really di look at the pics!
Steve G

pileit1
05-30-2013, 10:35 PM
Darnthedog,
The seat is 1/2" conduit side rails and 3/4" cross tubes based on the tutorial on fleettrikes.com. The covering is a vinyl covered nylon mesh from a local fabric shop. It's a double layer of the mesh which is probably overkill, but I didn't want to risk it and it still breathes well. As far as the ride quality goes, I don't have anything to compare it to since this is my first trike but it beats the tar out of a sitting on a conventional bike seat!! :) Functionally it's holding together with about 10 miles on the clock. This is also my first foray into welding. It tracks pretty good but tends to want to want to go "full tilt" when making a tight turn,,,nothing that is unmanageable though. All in all, I give it a thumbs up! One thing I have noticed is that when the wheels are turned hard one way or the other,the frame (and thus the back wheel) tilts opposite the turn or leans away from the turn. This isn't really an issue though as I won't be making any full speed tight turns. ;)

Steve,
I definitely plan to close up all of the tubes. I'm still contemplating a neck support, and I'm thinking about a bumper or at least a section of tube across the front in the form of a "T" so it can be leaned up against a wall to free up floor space. I'd also like to make the seat angle adjustable. Oh, BTW, you get an A. ;)

I also acquired a bottom pull front derailer .

Rocky

SirJoey
05-31-2013, 10:37 AM
Congrats! Looks great! Gonna really look good in paint! :punk:
For a first project, that's a pretty monumental endeavor!



**** The Truth Is Out There! ****
http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif
(Geezer & Bent Enthusiast At Large)

Ticktock
05-31-2013, 10:15 PM
Forget the 'A'---I failed!---did not notice the top pull derailer!
What is the caster angle on the front wheels?
Excess castor could cause the body lean effect you noticed, and could also cause the desire for full lock steering in a tight turn.
Steve G

pileit1
05-31-2013, 11:05 PM
Caster and camber are both about 15*. I know that's pushing the limit, but hey, it's within the "learning curve". It's manageable. I really have had a blast working on it.
On another matter, I'm not happy with the brakes on the front wheels. They're the cheap stamped 1/8" steel side-pull variety. Any recommendations?

darnthedog
06-01-2013, 01:09 AM
Without rebuilding the wheels to Drum brakes or adding disc brakes adapters and disc brakes I don't know. How old are the brake pads? Old used ones can be dried out and not grab very well. Walmart and LBS will have replacement pads. And they should stop the wheels on a half pull. Another problem I have seen is old brake cables can be warn out and be to stretchy making you think it is pulling but it stretches and won't grab firmly. I'd try new pads and then think about new cables. Just a couple thoughts.

pileit1
06-01-2013, 02:47 AM
The pads and cables are new so........ The hubs on these wheels don't match so the disc conversion is an option. Guess I'll hold off on trimming the ends of the axles.

Ticktock
06-01-2013, 10:01 AM
Don't know if this will help, but its cheap to try!
The cable end locking bolts and the adjusters can be reversed on those brakes, (making them a "down pull" for the rear of a Ladies bike). If you change brake units , left to right, right to left,
and reverse the cable ends and adjusters, you get cables that are inside the wheels, and face straight forward, removing the very sharp 180 bend you have in the cables.
This may be enough to increase your confidence in stopping. These brakes usually work well except when wet---when I was a kid they were the best you could get, so they do work--I'm living proof!
You may need to shorten the cables to make this work.
Steve G

darnthedog
06-01-2013, 10:07 AM
The pads and cables are new so........ The hubs on these wheels don't match so the disc conversion is an option. Guess I'll hold off on trimming the ends of the axles.

Here is the thread that shows you how to make disc brake adapters if you decide to go that route: http://forum.atomiczombie.com/showthread.php/3917-Disk-brake-adapters

I have not used this- Just have the information which says they work great.