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MrIdaho
06-11-2013, 01:22 PM
It was mentioned about a way to make an adjustable seat. Here is one possiable solution This is looking at the bottom. The two washers w/ screws are tighten down so seat does not move. Suggest using T thread inserts into plywood in the wood seat. The two bars are 1/4"-3/16 bar stock. Have done similar but not for a seat but same concept. REMEMBER this is looking from the bottom so pic is basically upside down so to speak.
http://i992.photobucket.com/albums/af44/MrDEB/seatadj_zpsf756de87.png (http://s992.photobucket.com/user/MrDEB/media/seatadj_zpsf756de87.png.html)

Tradetek
06-12-2013, 09:12 AM
What is your vision for attaching it to a frame?

MrIdaho
06-14-2013, 07:34 AM
Two ways to attach. Weld the two "tracks to frame or you could reverse the setup and attach the "tracks" to the seat then have the locking screws attached to the frame.

Ticktock
06-14-2013, 08:32 AM
Hi
Sorry--a bit slow to answer here!
I have some rather difficult requirements , which will probably finish up with car seat runners. If I was in Australia, no problem --straight to the wrecking yard, and the seat would be built by now. But here in China its a bit harder to find things, and some are over the top expensive.
I need to have a seat that can be moved by hand, no tools, quickly, to any position over the range of travel. The whole seat must move, and be self supporting at any time--no stays or back braces. This is not for the mystery build, so there are no hidden clues in this thread!
It looks like I may have to learn the Chinese for car seat runner, or draw a good picture .
Thanks for the ideas, but in this case I think there really is only one practical, and safe answer, kits only a location and language problem---like where are they, and what do they call it?
Steve G
And "car seat runner " from Google will probably have laughing their heads off when they find out what I really want!

FrankCrank
06-14-2013, 07:38 PM
...how about the runners on a kitchen drawer - could they be utilized in some way - or maybe a bit too lightweight? Just a thought.......

Ticktock
06-14-2013, 08:21 PM
Hi Frank---Got me thinking--but you are right, they may be a bit light for a freestanding seat--but would work for just the base.
Thanks for that idea.
Steve G

dmac257
06-14-2013, 11:46 PM
Hi
Sorry--a bit slow to answer here!
I have some rather difficult requirements , which will probably finish up with car seat runners. If I was in Australia, no problem --straight to the wrecking yard, and the seat would be built by now. But here in China its a bit harder to find things, and some are over the top expensive.
I need to have a seat that can be moved by hand, no tools, quickly, to any position over the range of travel. The whole seat must move, and be self supporting at any time--no stays or back braces. This is not for the mystery build, so there are no hidden clues in this thread!
It looks like I may have to learn the Chinese for car seat runner, or draw a good picture .
Thanks for the ideas, but in this case I think there really is only one practical, and safe answer, kits only a location and language problem---like where are they, and what do they call it?
Steve G
And "car seat runner " from Google will probably have laughing their heads off when they find out what I really want!

Would this work?

http://s20.postimg.org/ffoy6kfh5/adjustable_seat.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/ffoy6kfh5/)

Not sure if you can adapt the idea but dimensions and track attachment are up to you .. just double rail (or single) with a spacer tube between so the quick release has something to compress against. I drew it with 1/8" X 1" but you could make thicker if you wanted.

dmac257

edspedalcars
06-15-2013, 12:18 AM
Here's another idea.

On my T bucket pedal car, I made these adjustable 'runners/slides'.
It may not be right for your build but the idea may give you ideas.

Obviously you are looking at the bottom of the seat here.
The seat back slides with the bottom, but is hinged for back adjustment.
(A non-adjusting one piece seat/back would work just as easy).

The dowel is secured from the top of the seat.
http://s23.postimg.org/pi5p1evt7/005.jpg

Tube is mounted directly to the frame, and seat (hardwood dowel) slides into it, and locked into place.
http://s17.postimg.org/tyk57zcz3/008.jpg

Long bolt hanging is for attaching to the frame, for my application. Your's may differ.
http://s23.postimg.org/fc1ow60sr/010.jpg

Each hole is 1" apart and I have a pin attached to the underside frame to use for locking into place.
This system works great, but needs to be adjusted with no weight on it.
Not new or sophisticated, but it works.

ALSO:.....Some garden/lawn tractors have adjustable seats. Maybe thats an option for the slide mechanism.

Enjoy, Ed

MrIdaho
06-15-2013, 07:26 AM
I like edspedalcars idea but use maybe two runners for ruggedness?
Also would love more info on your T-bucket pedal car. I saw that pic and immediately looked on Ebay for 48 spoke rims.
Body material, front tire/rims etc.

Ticktock
06-15-2013, 08:16 AM
Thanks everyone,
Between Ed and dmac I think we have a workable solution. As usual, I will wait until I have the frame in front of me, waiting for a seat, before I decide, but using those two ideas will get an answer. I like the pin idea, as its ***** proof, and I like the quick release thingies cus they work--so either way--we have a winner.
Thanks guys.
Now its back to the mystery build to see what remains to be done---not much, as the paint has been flying today. Whether it landed in the right place is open to question.
Steve G

edspedalcars
06-15-2013, 09:04 AM
I like edspedalcars idea but use maybe two runners for ruggedness?
Also would love more info on your T-bucket pedal car. I saw that pic and immediately looked on Ebay for 48 spoke rims.
Body material, front tire/rims etc.

Morning mridaho

My seats use two runners. Only the left one locks.

The T bucket has slipped on progress as I' m having a difficult time,
making up my mind on the drive mechanism change.

Also been working on the Inferno wheels

Exactly what are you checking ebay for?

Everything you see was acquired locally, from swap meet purchases,, Lowes or HD.

The panels are all homemade, from sheets of plywood or 24 gauge sheet metal.
The chassis is all 1 1/4 pvc.
All the front steering parts are homemade.

Anyother particlars, just ask.

Enjoy, Ed

edspedalcars
06-15-2013, 09:21 AM
Thanks everyone,
Between Ed and dmac I think we have a workable solution. As usual, I will wait until I have the frame in front of me, waiting for a seat, before I decide, but using those two ideas will get an answer. I like the pin idea, as its ***** proof, and I like the quick release thingies cus they work--so either way--we have a winner.
Thanks guys.
Now its back to the mystery build to see what remains to be done---not much, as the paint has been flying today. Whether it landed in the right place is open to question.
Steve G

Hi steve

I've given myself another adjustable seat idea.

Visualize those tubular runners as the bicycle seat posts laying horizontal.
The seat slides in and out (forward/backward).
The locking mechanism is already attached.
Just need to devise a support (roller??) for the back portion of the seat bottom.

I don't know if you have the same picture as me, but it is a very cool set up
and one I will use in the future. Got to go put it on paper!!!

Enjoy, Ed

Ticktock
06-15-2013, 10:25 AM
Got half an idea of your plan--but I will wait for a pic on paper. There's is no hurry, as this will not be needed until after the Mystery build is built and tested--which could be as early as next week end if the paint dries or I get impatient.
Thanks,
Steve G

edspedalcars
06-15-2013, 11:57 AM
Steve

I know you said no hurry, but I had to get it down on paper for myself, lest I forget.

Hopefully this will give you the, 'other half' of the picture.

http://s13.postimg.org/lv5zdp5nr/adjustable_seat_option_002.jpg

Just to clarify: There are three locking method choices.

The last one using a steering stem and twist knob seems neat and
puts the knob in front where we're accustomed to finding it.

Welding will probably have an undesirable effect on the knob. ??????

(Note) ... the line going to the 'steering stem' is actually on top of the 'stem bolt'
Stem bolt and knob drawn in afterwards.

Have fun with it

Ed

edspedalcars
06-15-2013, 05:59 PM
Would this work?

http://s20.postimg.org/ffoy6kfh5/adjustable_seat.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/ffoy6kfh5/)

Not sure if you can adapt the idea but dimensions and track attachment are up to you .. just double rail (or single) with a spacer tube between so the quick release has something to compress against. I drew it with 1/8" X 1" but you could make thicker if you wanted.

dmac257

You and steve both have my envy. I have used CAD (Sketchup) and would love to
be able to pop out drawings as quickly as you. The learning curve takes more time
than I'm willing to give it.

I'll just use my handdrawn talent for now.

Enjoy, Ed

edspedalcars
06-16-2013, 10:32 AM
Steve

I know you said no hurry, but I had to get it down on paper for myself, lest I forget.

Hopefully this will give you the, 'other half' of the picture.

http://s13.postimg.org/lv5zdp5nr/adjustable_seat_option_002.jpg

Just to clarify: There are three locking method choices.

The last one using a steering stem and twist knob seems neat and
puts the knob in front where we're accustomed to finding it.

Welding will probably have an undesirable effect on the knob. ??????

(Note) ... the line going to the 'steering stem' is actually on top of the 'stem bolt'
Stem bolt and knob drawn in afterwards.

Have fun with it

Ed

Looking at my drawing made me think that there's really no need or room for a spring/roller.

A stud of some sort, or depending on placement, an adjusting bolt, giving up/down setting
for the rear, which would also affect the back.

To do this though, requires a hinged front.

Ed

Ticktock
06-16-2013, 11:17 AM
Hi Ed,
The problem with this set up is that the further the seat moves forward, the less support it gets. Without the roller, it probably won't move with someone sitting in the seat. That's not a problem for me, as all adjustments will be between two known points---mine and her's !once we have worked out where they are. So it would be done from standing beside the trike (this is not the mystery build)
In your case, its like a car--they are in the seat when they see the need to move. Your first idea is the one that appeals to me as it is so simple to make and operate , and it can be built with very little increase in seat height. It only needs to correct size tubes, and it just about makes it's self!
One thing I have learnt is that crank position is not super critical as on a bent you can move yourself around on the seat a lot more to adjust for leg length. I find I lay back in the seat and cruise with a shorter reach, and sit up a bit for a longer reach when I want to "go" for some silly reason.
For me , the first idea still wins--for you, you need to adjust with some one already in the seat . Totally different requirements actually!
So long a s the sliding tube are long enough to avoid jamming, your second plan will work, but maybe not with bicycle seat tubes, as they tend to be a bit too tight a fit.
Like you, the idea of the locking system being at the front of the seat appeals, but a stem screw could take several turns to lock, and may not want to unlock with out persuasion from a small hammer!
That simple pin takes some beating=even if it does mean adjusting from outside the car== It cant be worse than adjusting stirrups on a horse---correction--adjusting stirrups on a horse saddle (horses do not have stirrups)
Idea one wins for me if I can find matching tubes that are not stainless steel, as you cannot drill the stuff they sell here!
Steve G,
Beijing
Why do I always (well nearly always) miss the upper case B in Biejing?

edspedalcars
06-16-2013, 12:44 PM
Trying to use the K.I.S.S method again!

Aluminum 'L'. or 'channel' and square tubing may be another option,
while using the same slide and pin method.

NOT DRAWN TO SCALE !!

As I don't know what your frame looks like, I drew in two different mounting examples.

Drawn using 'L' angled aluminum, but aluminum channel could be used.
The channel can be a problem in matching sizes, whereas with the 'L', it won't be a problem.

With this setup it looks like you would need locking pins for both sides.

http://s21.postimg.org/4ibmoadp3/001.jpgmg

Just some more 'thinking' Steve.

Ed

Ticktock
06-16-2013, 12:53 PM
Hi Ed,
Way past my bed time, and China would not let me look at your last pic---must be dangerous to national security!
I will try again in the morning, they may have changed the rules by then!
Steve G

nemo
07-08-2013, 09:22 PM
What bike are you making this for? I just finished my warrior and scratched all the paint off trying to put the pedals on because they're make to be adjustable. I'm now looking for a way to make the seat adjustable like the Terratrike bikes so that my front pedals can just be welded on the frame. I'm going to build a streetfox next and work on adjustable seat for that. I was just wondering which bike you're making the adjustable seat for

Ticktock
07-08-2013, 09:45 PM
Its for the shortened version of my Personmover trike. I need a quick change seat for two different riders. Seat frame and base have now been built, ready to bolt onto existing seat mounts, leaving only the locking system to be thought out.
Will post some pics later.
Steve G,
beijing

nemo
07-08-2013, 10:17 PM
Oh ok. Any ideas for adjustable seats for the streetfox or warrior? I like your idea of just building custom seats for each person.

edspedalcars
07-08-2013, 10:57 PM
Its for the shortened version of my Personmover trike. I need a quick change seat for two different riders. Seat frame and base have now been built, ready to bolt onto existing seat mounts, leaving only the locking system to be thought out.
Will post some pics later.
Steve G,
beijing

Hello Steve

Are those seats for 1st class and Coach class ? http://forum.atomiczombie.com/images/smilies/cheesy.gif

Ed

Ticktock
07-09-2013, 09:07 AM
Me think there may be a misinterpretation of my words!
There is only one seat, and I hope it can be moved easily to two different positions and then locked until the next time it has to be moved.
That should help Nemo and Ed, and for Ed, its a First Class seat in my opinion! (but its scrap metal if won't slide!)
If we get a break in our wet spell I may get some more done tomorrow.
Nemo--a few minutes more thought time since the post on the other thread---it may work on a Street fox, but you would have to make sure before you start building that it would fit, and , the seat would have to be a little higher. Not sure how much , as our requirements are different, and I never looked at it from "your" point of view.
See what happens tomorrow,
Have fun
Steve G