PDA

View Full Version : Streetfox Adjustable boom



Dawn
07-02-2013, 06:32 PM
First Streetfox just about finished, and the second one has started ( need a bigger garage ) has anybody made the front boom adjustable with the main frame made out of the standard box section, so far here in the UK we have not found a supplier of 35mm box section that would slide inside the frame, but can get 30mm x 3mm wall we was thinking that with packing attached / welded to it, so it's a snug fit in the outer tube, it might work ?

FrankCrank
07-02-2013, 09:26 PM
...was thinking of doing something like this on my next trike build, but getting two pieces of box section to slide into each other is a challenge. One idea I might try is just use a piece of the same size box-section, and cut it along it's length, then weld back together. A cut along two corners diagonally opposite each other might work best, width of angle grinder disc will need to match with the wall thickness. I'm planning on using 1mm stainless steel, so not sure if distortion will be an issue - will cross that bridge when I come to it...

darnthedog
07-02-2013, 11:25 PM
I believe one Zombie placed a round tube in the end of the square- Not sure as it has been a while ago. Also don't recall if it worked. But if you placed steel dowel pins on the 4 corners of the tube it may keep it aligned when pedaling. But again unsure it is would work. But I thought I'd toss out the idea.

Ticktock
07-03-2013, 04:05 AM
Its pretty hard to beat the AZ BB! A few commercial bents do use telescoping tubes, and there are many reports that this does not work. the only two times an AZ BB will not work are when you forgot to tighten the bolts, or when you built it wrong in the first place!
However, I do add an extra bit of flat , welded to the BB shell, on the top face of the main boom, which stops any unwanted rocking movement, and keeps the derailer tube pointing ion the right direction. Will, post a photo next time I go out with the camera, as the LWB right beside me does not have this (yet) mainly because I have no need for a front derailer! (That's my excuse)
Steve G

tomelect
07-03-2013, 07:26 AM
Hi Dawn, I used 40mm with a 1.6mm wall thickness for the frame with a short section of 2mm wall thickness for the front boom this was to allow a section of 35mm RHS to fit inside. I drilled holes and welded nuts to the end of the boom and drilled two holes into the 35mm bottom bracket section, when the screws are tightened it pins the bottom bracket to the frame making it very secure. This was on a warrior but I'm sure you can do the same on a streetfox. what you will have to remember is by sliding the bottom bracket inside the frame rather than positioning it on top you will lose height, to compensate for this I raised the front boom angle, hope this helps

Tom http://s18.postimg.org/8ucoq0gi1/image.jpg http://s7.postimg.org/xnoczen2j/image.png http://s16.postimg.org/oclotdued/image.png

SirJoey
07-03-2013, 10:25 AM
I ran into the same problem. Local supplier had nothing that would fit nicely, so I took a couple
pieces of angle iron, & shaved a bit off one leg of each piece lenghtwise till I had a nice fit:

http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/sirjoey7/Misc%20HPV%20Stuff/DSC03681_zpsb4b724d6.jpg (http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/sirjoey7/media/Misc%20HPV%20Stuff/DSC03681_zpsb4b724d6.jpg.html)

http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/sirjoey7/Misc%20HPV%20Stuff/DSC03682_zpsf8d34b19.jpg (http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/sirjoey7/media/Misc%20HPV%20Stuff/DSC03682_zpsf8d34b19.jpg.html)





After welding & grinding, I had a nice piece which fit beautifully:

http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/sirjoey7/Misc%20HPV%20Stuff/DSC03684_zpse946c971.jpg (http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/sirjoey7/media/Misc%20HPV%20Stuff/DSC03684_zpse946c971.jpg.html)





Ultimately resulting in this:

http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/sirjoey7/Misc%20HPV%20Stuff/DSC03694_zpsddfed76f.jpg (http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/sirjoey7/media/Misc%20HPV%20Stuff/DSC03694_zpsddfed76f.jpg.html)

http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/sirjoey7/Misc%20HPV%20Stuff/DSC039182_zps5ce20001.jpg (http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/sirjoey7/media/Misc%20HPV%20Stuff/DSC039182_zps5ce20001.jpg.html)




**** The Truth Is Out There! ****
http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif
(Geezer & Bent Enthusiast At Large)

Dawn
07-03-2013, 05:23 PM
Thanks all for the quick reply's, called in at our local fabrication shop today and they don't do anything that will fit inside the box section we have, I like the ideas of cutting a box section down or using two angles to make one the correct size, as it will only be a short section that should be easy to do. The first Streetfox we built has the AZ BB method of fixing the cranks in place which suits me and works fine. Hubbies heals catch the ground at times when he rides it, so he was thinking of putting a bend in the front boom tube to give a bit more ground clearance so losing height by fitting the crank on a short sliding boom won't be a problem if we bend it to take that into account as well. Once it's set for the right length to suit it's rider, it will be bolted so it wont move, but could be changed for a longer version if we ever wanted to change it for somebody else to ride. The fun of making a second one is too change bits for better or worse :builder2:

go1000go
07-03-2013, 07:11 PM
You could try Hub Le Bas in the UK, I have bought a length at a time from them and they do a 34.93 x 34.93 square section
http://www.hublebas.co.uk/products/product-overview.aspx?dfid=1005&val=8M8k%2f4LrLN0%3d
At the time I was using the rectangular section 34.93 x 15.88 and it fits a treat into the 40 x 40 tube I had

Happy hunting.

Dawn
07-04-2013, 06:53 PM
Thanks go1000go just sent an email to them their nearest branch to me is Manchester, hopefully they will tell me what the minimum length I can buy of 35 x 35 as that would fit perfect, and what it costs to deliver, as I drive a mini I am limited to what fits inside it lol

dmac257
07-04-2013, 10:12 PM
I read somewhere that there is a pointed weld ridge INSIDE of square tube that rubs on the next size tube and that you can grind a slight slot on the OUTSIDE of the tube you want to insert to avoid contact with the weld ridge. Saw a video of it on u-tube a while back while researching welding tables.

dmac257

Ticktock
07-05-2013, 01:23 AM
The sloping end of the main frame is a nice touch! Any problems with your welded bit distorting!
I did something similar years ago on a bus repair, to make a non standard section (unless you were a bus builder, when it was standard because you ordered 200 Miles of the stuff).
It worked, but needed a lot of persausion to keep it straight!
Steve G.
Beijing

Ticktock
07-05-2013, 01:33 AM
Now we have just developed the need for a new tool in the bike builders armoury!
A mini angle grinder, with remote control and CCTV to remove internal faults on tubes!
Specification does not eliminate the use of Laser, Plasma cutting, or even HP water , so long as it works. The special AZ editition needs a working depth of half a meter, provided it can be entered into either end of a tube, thus giving one full meter of perfect sliding fit, if you can find the correct size tubes to do this!
I don't think any one manufacturer can supply two sections that fit closely enough for this job.
Have fun,
Steve G,
beijing

DannyC
07-05-2013, 07:53 AM
In the UK this stockist has steel that meets the requirement I think for 2 sizes that will nest inside one another. http://www.steeltubedirect.co.uk/product_selector.aspx?shape=150&material=145

The 40mm x 40mm @ 1.5 mm wall (16 gauge) should be able to accommodate their 38.1 x 38.1mm @2.03 mm wall (14 gauge).
The 40 x 40 is £26.14 and the 38.1 x 38.1 is £33.38.
Perhaps we are fortunate here in the UK in this regard?

Regards,

Dan.

Ticktock
07-05-2013, 12:07 PM
How do you fit a 38.1mm square into a 37mm square hole? That's working on external dimensions. Now in case I got it wrong, and its internal dimensions, how do you fit 42.16 into 40mm square? Got me beat!
Steve G
Beijing

Tradetek
07-05-2013, 12:27 PM
I have a feeling he forgot to double the wall thickness to accommodate both sides of the larger tube... ;)

ID of the 40mm tube is ~37mm.

Tradetek
07-05-2013, 12:30 PM
I read somewhere that there is a pointed weld ridge INSIDE of square tube that rubs on the next size tube and that you can grind a slight slot on the OUTSIDE of the tube you want to insert to avoid contact with the weld ridge. Saw a video of it on u-tube a while back while researching welding tables.

dmac257

That pointed ridge is the inside of the welded joint that completes the box tube. Square and rectangular tube is generally made by folding a flat sheet into the desired shape and then welding it closed.

This is also true for any round tube that is marked as ERW (Electric Resistance Welded).

darnthedog
07-05-2013, 01:02 PM
How do you fit a 38.1mm square into a 37mm square hole? That's working on external dimensions. Now in case I got it wrong, and its internal dimensions, how do you fit 42.16 into 40mm square? Got me beat!
Steve G
Beijing

40mm minus 1.5mm = 38.5mm With 38.1mm O.D tube there would be a .3mm clearance provided the tolerances are very tight. However I have not seen that tight a tolerance on anything I have purchased either for home or pick up at work. I'm not saying it won't work, I'm just saying it may not due to normal manufacturing variances. But I wish Dawn Good luck and hope it works. I expect pictures so show us nay sayers how it is done. I don't remember if Dawn shot us a photo the last Streetfox in total- Maybe a seat shot but that was it. But from what I saw it was a pretty nice build. So here hoping all your plans work out. An Dawn it looked like 3 meter was a miminum buy but thet had custom listed as well. So I hope it all works out for you.

DannyC
07-05-2013, 01:32 PM
Sorry folks, my mistake, the numbers don't add up do they? LOL.
But, they do a 45 x 45 with a 2mm wall that in theory would give you the ability to slide a 40 x 40 inside it.
Or, if your main tube is already 40 x 40 then slip a 45 x 45 2mm wall sleeve over the top.

Sorry for my earlier mistake lol.

Dan.

tomelect
07-05-2013, 11:33 PM
Or you could do as I have done Dan and use 40mm square hollow section (shs) with a 2mm wall thickness and slide a 35 x 35 section inside it fits perfectly with no movement whatsoever when fitted with bolts for adjustment as I posted earlier.

Tom http://s24.postimg.org/xsor0zq11/shs.jpg

DannyC
07-06-2013, 05:52 AM
Yes, that clearly works very well. :-)
So there are solutions available, tried & tested for telescopic booms.
That's good to know.

D.

Ticktock
07-06-2013, 08:54 AM
40mm square, minus 1.5 each side is 37mm square!
Steve G

go1000go
07-06-2013, 09:17 AM
Are we allowing for painted thickness.

darnthedog
07-06-2013, 09:39 AM
40mm square, minus 1.5 each side is 37mm square!
Steve G

Must be Chiness Math. As 40-37=3 on my calculator. But I don't get to mess with Metric square tubing. So maybe they round off to the nearest whole.

Ticktock
07-06-2013, 09:49 AM
Go back to 40 -1.5= 38.5 ! Correct if wall thickness is .75mm . But there are Two wall thickness to a square tube, so 40 X 1.5 thick is 40 - (2x1.5) =37mm sq internal, not 38.5.
International maths in this case.
Steve G

tomelect
07-06-2013, 11:20 AM
Thats why I used 40mm with a 2mm wall thickness which gives you 36mm internally, that allows 0.5mm less paint and the seam this allows the inner tube to slide without being too tight.

Tom

darnthedog
07-06-2013, 05:49 PM
Go back to 40 -1.5= 38.5 ! Correct if wall thickness is .75mm . But there are Two wall thickness to a square tube, so 40 X 1.5 thick is 40 - (2x1.5) =37mm sq internal, not 38.5.
International maths in this case.
Steve G
DUH- I stand corrected-Thanks for the patients to steer me straight

Dawn
07-06-2013, 06:31 PM
We used the 40x40x2 wall on our first trike build and the second frame is made out the same, so it will be a 35mm box section for the boom still waiting on a reply to the cost of it, we have had three emails from them but none contained costs yet. and when and if we manage to get some to make the boom, I will post some pics

Tradetek
07-06-2013, 10:54 PM
Keep in mind that sometimes a full length of tube is not much more expensive than buying about 10 feet (~3m).

In the US, a full length of tube is 17 - 24 feet and steel suppliers give a discounted price if you buy the entire thing because it saves them the space required to keep cut-off pieces, frequently referred to as "drops", and then sell them off at scrap prices of 60 cents - $1.00 per pound. I've literally seen prices where the cost of 10 feet was just a couple of dollars cheaper than buying 20 feet!

BTW, it would help if you add your city to your profile so that it shows up in your posts. You might get some extra help on local suppliers and shuch because there are quite a few zombies in England, just ask Shaun... of the Dead (http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0365748/?ref_=sr_1)... LOL

Bill

nemo
07-08-2013, 11:44 PM
Hey everyone, I'm about to start a streetfox and was thinking of some way to make the seat adjustable, and I read this and I thought it'd be perfect for what I need. I want to do exactly what tomelect did with his. So my pedals and housing (Not sure the technical name for that is) are welded directly to the front boom instead of the way it is in the warrior plans. Which works great but it scratched all my paint off. I was wondering if you adjust the telescoping front tube in or out, wont you have to change your chain length? If I make the boom adjustable by 4" or more I would think the chain would be dragging on the ground.

Ticktock
07-09-2013, 09:53 AM
What ever you do to move the bottom bracket will affect the chain length. Depending on the derailer / chainring/rear hub combination you may get away with a couple of inches movement that will still work, but not much more. . If the derailer is working to its extremes this will be even less if you want all gears to work.

My reason for wanting an adjustable seat may be different--two regular users with different leg lengths. Don't want to be using tools all day.
So I have built up a car seat type of slider, and the whole seat moves. .
Might be a bit harder on the Street fox, but it really depends on how much you want to move it, and how often.
When mines nutted out I will post pics and a drawing--don't know yet if it will slide properly, so its all secret for a while.
Steve G

nemo
07-09-2013, 03:00 PM
I thought about the movable seat, but wont that adjust where your hands are on the steering? obviously a shorter person has shorter arms but I would think if you moved the seat forward the steering might be a little cramped. Or rather too far away? I guess I'll just go off trial and error with this next bike.

FrankCrank
07-09-2013, 09:41 PM
Hi Nemo,

Most commercial tadpoles have an adjustable boom rather than seat because of weight ditribution - a sliding seat would affect this and could place the rider in a position that is not the ideal 30/70 split front to rear, and this affects the handling of the trike. It would also alter the hand placement on the bars, something I've found that has to be 'just so' for it to feel right.

So, commercial trikes have an adjustable boom, but doubt any get adjusted again once the thing is set up for the new owner, and may only get modified if sold on to another different sized rider. Adjusting the boom and getting chain lenght right on a daily basis would not be fun. Most seats that say they are adjustable means the backrest angle can be altered to suit.

What Steve is doing here is in my opinion quite a difficult challenge, and knowing Steve he'll most definately get it to work :). Now - I believe Steve's chariot is a delta configuration, and my guess is weight distribution is not so critical on this. So, if it works for Steve, there's no guarantee it would work on a tadpole type of trike.

My trike has a fairly upright seat position with no adjustment, and the boom is welded into place also, so only someone very close to my height can ride it. I'm planning to make the boom adjustable on my Mk2, but again the seat will be static.

Good luck in any case - cheers - Frank.

Ticktock
07-09-2013, 10:15 PM
Hi Frank--- right on all points!
Also, from the commercial point of view, an adjustable boom is much cheaper than a an adjustable seat!
I need an adjustable seat because of two regular riders. Two trikes would have been an easier design challenge using around the house stuff! But space does not permit another trike.
I could not see me adjusting a BB every time I get on the trike--in fact it would not be needed, as the first time the wife had to do it she would get a bus!
Looks like I need around 3 to four 4 inches to keep both of us comfortable, although we can manage short runs in one middle position. Its cramped for me, and she just slides down the seat a bit, but the bars a along reach, and it makes braking difficult for her. (Don't say it!--I need adjustable bars as well!)
Even with an adjustable boom, some paint damage is almost un avoidable if it is done often.
Steve G

go1000go
07-26-2013, 02:29 PM
Hi Dawn

Just been looking into buying some steel for my next project.
Whilst I do not own a mini, I have swapped to a saloon since buying last lot of steel, so collecting steel could be a pain for me too.
Anyway to cut a long story

http://www.metals4u.co.uk/
Check these out only £12.50 delivery and their prices compare to my local steel stockholder for 1.5" x 1.5" x 16 gauge which is 1.5mm wall.

and get this Hub Le Bas now have an £80 minimum order charge, their on line shop http://www.steeltubedirect.co.uk/ is twice what you pay when you go direct and depending on the section you buy the carriage goes up .... Not that good any more

No more cutting steel to get it in the car for me

tomelect
07-26-2013, 11:03 PM
I agree Steve if I had to adjust the boom then I would have made an adjustable seat, but I built this one for myself and as you say if I adjusted it now it would scratch the paintwork and I have no reason too. I am going to build a another trike with a tilt adjustment this is the start of it. http://s22.postimg.org/qw034v98h/image.jpg I cut the bottom bracket out I dont see any point in having a bottom bracket at the rear of a tadpole thats not being used just blanked off. http://s12.postimg.org/kgf3vfarx/image.jpg

Tom

Dawn
07-30-2013, 06:33 PM
Been a while but we got quotes back for 35mm RHS section here in the UK the first one sold it by the Ton :) and the second sold it by the length at 6.1 mts with a minimum order value of £80 + £35 delivery so that worked out a bit much as we will only use 3/4 of a meter of it at the most, so we have used the AZ design for now or we will miss the summer riding them, and will look into it again for a winter modification.

HHJJ
07-30-2013, 07:23 PM
Hi Dawn and everyone,

I went to these folk at their Chorley depot and got 20ft of square 38mm x 1.5mm for £36 and they chopped it into 3 so I could load it into my Micra.
I think they had mostly square tubes and mostly larger sizes but luckily had what I asked for.

http://www.bmsteel.co.uk/

They may have a depot local to you.
Cheers
Hilary

FrankCrank
07-30-2013, 08:29 PM
Hi Hilary,

Think that's the first 'common sense' story I've heard about buying steel in the UK. Seems you are a lamb to the slaughter as soon as you contact a steel yard, much like going to get your car repaired, or trying to find a builder/plumber etc. Maybe that's the secret - go there in person, and have them cut into 2m lengths to fit your vehicle.

Good start to my day reading that one. Cheers - Frank.

Dawn
07-31-2013, 06:53 PM
Hi Hilary just sent an email to our nearest depot to see if they stock 35mm x 35mm as we used 40mm x 2mm wall for the main frame will see if they have it, thanks

tomelect
08-01-2013, 09:03 AM
I have just seen the pics of your trike dawn, it looks very nice ,very good workmanship.

Tom

inertiaexp
08-01-2013, 01:48 PM
I don't know if this is an option for you, but I am considering making little wooden bike cubbys or basically just boxes in the back yard with tarps over them. Stack them two bikes high and maybe consider ramping things down with other pieces of wood if the bike is especially heavy.

DannyC
04-16-2014, 06:21 PM
Sorry to intrude on this thread but I would like some advice/opinions please.
I am looking to make a Street/Warrior hybrid in round-tube and one of the things it will need is an adjustable boom.
My question is really about "how much adjustment"?
How many inches difference between "maximum and minimum extension" of an adjustable boom is "normal"?
If one achieves this adjust-ability with telescoping tubes, how much additional tube should remain in the main beam tube of the bike (as much again as is protruding at maximum extension or just a minimum of "X" inches)?

If one achieves the adjust-ability by having the BB mounted on a simple sleeve that can slide up and down the main beam tube and there is a "keyway" to prevent rotation, this is of course another way of achieving the same end result (but I have not seen an example of this in a mainstream product, they seem to favour telescoping tubes).

Anyway, I thought I would ask the group; and prepare for either eventuality anyway.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts and your time.


Regards,

Dan.

Twinkle
04-16-2014, 06:29 PM
Hi Danny

On some of the AZ plans Brad has used a square section "wrap" on the round tube to mount the adjustable bottom bracket , IF the trike is only going to be used by you then an adjustable BB assembly is not necessary .
IF you are still going for the removable ocean seat you could get an inch or so either way on that ,just in case you shrink sometime in the future .. :taz:

regards emma

bambuko
04-17-2014, 03:48 PM
...If one achieves the adjust-ability by having the BB mounted on a simple sleeve that can slide up and down the main beam tube and there is a "keyway" to prevent rotation, this is of course another way of achieving the same end result (but I have not seen an example of this in a mainstream product, they seem to favour telescoping tubes)...

Hi Danny,
That's how I've done it on my LWB bike.
There was no need for any keyway - I haven't shifted it yet :-)

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1tG0qEGu2TI/UO1Wj1jeEYI/AAAAAAAAM9Y/U1w1d2V2Sgg/s640/IMG_6488.jpg

As Twinkle says - because I am the only user, after cycling it for a while to confirm it is in the right place, I am ready to get rid of this contraption and secure bottom bracket directly and permanently.

Twinkle
04-17-2014, 04:22 PM
Mr B
that is a nice piece of agricultural engineering.
I bet that was not done in less than a couple of hours
how many pieces does it consist of and did you weld the front mech tube to the top.

regards Emma

DannyC
04-17-2014, 04:50 PM
Hi Bambuko,

I should imagine that with all of the surface-to-surface contact in your implementation it obviates the need for any keyway.
Thanks for sharing and showing that it is indeed a viable option.

Regards,

Dan.

bambuko
04-18-2014, 05:32 AM
...that is a nice piece of agricultural engineering...
not exactly sure whether it is meant to be a compliment :cheesy: but I'll take it as one ...


...I bet that was not done in less than a couple of hours...
I am retired and enjoy challenges.
BTW this was my early attempts at brazing so I am not exactly proud of it :surprised:


...how many pieces does it consist of ...
couple of construction photos:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-EO7suVL3oDk/UNXwSTtryfI/AAAAAAAAM88/1PmO2T-FDwA/s640/IMG_6456.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IPOaPP2FalY/UNXwSVe4NlI/AAAAAAAAM88/HlAqJTskAZA/s640/IMG_6457.jpg



...and did you weld the front mech tube to the top....
Yes, here is the finished job:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BehK_4HuL60/UZoU07nMd8I/AAAAAAAANw0/p6BnTlhiwLE/s640/IMG_7046.jpg

bambuko
04-18-2014, 05:36 AM
...I should imagine that with all of the surface-to-surface contact in your implementation it obviates the need for any keyway.
Thanks for sharing and showing that it is indeed a viable option....

Yes, you are absolutely right about the surface area (next time I would make it smaller and less "agricultural" :cheesy:).
Plus, since I am the only person riding this bike .... all this metal is not doing much (haven't adjusted it since I got it right at the beginning).

Twinkle
04-18-2014, 07:25 AM
Mr B

That was a compliment, and the finished item looks rather smart .
the streamlined effect is better than the original clamp around the square tube.

regards Emma

DannyC
04-18-2014, 07:45 AM
I agree, that is one smart looking relocatable BB! :-)

Dan.

bambuko
04-18-2014, 07:58 AM
...That was a compliment, and the finished item looks rather smart .
the streamlined effect is better than the original clamp around the square tube....


...that is one smart looking relocatable BB...

thank you :rockstar:

darnthedog
04-18-2014, 08:14 AM
That is beautiful work Bambuko.
As to the brazing- once flapped, filed and painted no one will know. It holds- it functions and it looks professional. I'd bet there are a lot of questions like to where did you buy that.
Thanks for sharing.

DannyC
04-18-2014, 08:58 AM
Hi Bambuko,

Just a quick question (aka being nosey) if I may?
The lines of your fish-mouth/Cut-outs are extremely precise, was this a machined operation or a manual and hand-finished cut?
It really does look a precision piece of metalwork.

Regards,

Dan.

Radical Brad
04-18-2014, 08:58 AM
Thanks for the photos... nicely done indeed.

Brad

bambuko
04-18-2014, 09:57 AM
...I'd bet there are a lot of questions like to where did you buy that...

that's the usual assumption indeed :)


...was this a machined operation or a manual and hand-finished cut?...

I use fixed pitch hole saws, like this:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rcdEnNLxRKE/UUMPvDhxFLI/AAAAAAAANWI/nKpdTSvBO9o/s640/IMG_6742.jpg

it can be done manually but it would be right PITA and I wanted accuracy (because I use brazing)


Thanks for the photos... nicely done indeed...

I may have drifted away from straight AZ :cheesy: , but I'll never forget that you have inspired me to have a go - thank you!

Spark Ninja
12-20-2015, 02:49 PM
Tom, I really like the way you approached this. This thread is a few years old now - how has your adjustable boom held up? Beautiful warrior by the way!
I couldn't tell from the pictures, but how do you handle the front shift cable? How do you keep it from pinching or bulging at the different positions?

Mark

bambuko
12-20-2015, 03:16 PM
Tom, I really like the way you approached this. This thread is a few years old now - how has your adjustable boom held up? Beautiful warrior by the way!
I couldn't tell from the pictures, but how do you handle the front shift cable? How do you keep it from pinching or bulging at the different positions?
Mark


Assuming, that your question is addressed to tomelect ? - last time he posted anything here was about 12 month ago
I know it is "zombie" site, but thread necromancy and trying to raise long gone members will not get you far... :cool4:

I suggest you start your own thread (with lots of photos of your project) and I am sure people will answer your questions.