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Cashew
07-07-2013, 03:48 PM
Well I'm having fun, learning lots and lots more to learn. I'm stuck briefly and asking for advice. I just welded the main boom together and something went wacky. For the record my angle on page 32,diagram 2 is correct. I kept the 5" height,and changed the front boom to 13". All was well, till after final welding put the wheel back on, and back up on the blocks. 5 went to 9.5" and front 13" is fine, but the joint between front and middle boom bumped up to 15.5".

Not sure if flipped my front piece upside down after getting a tight joint, or if rear fork angle cranked it up. My fork joint to seat looks good. Hard to imagine it raised the clearance up so much.

Fix#1: cut front boom off, middle with 90' cut. Recut front boom and get back to clearance heights.

Option#2: Would my current boom angle goof up good chain management and make it more difficult to get in and out of the seat?

http://tinypic.com/r/2i9o84x/5

http://tinypic.com/r/2qmg30g/5

Attached 2 photos of frame.

Any help is appreciated. I've got the week off on vacation to get this hopefully up and running. Still need to source 2 pulleys or make a cutting board version on my wood lathe.

Cashew

dkerrivan
07-07-2013, 05:54 PM
Looking at that front boom weld angle, I think your first guess is right, you flipped the piece 180 degrees. I'd suggest cutting at the weld, you'll loose maybe 1/4 or less of an inch in material, which, may or may not impact your design, but not by much. If you cut reeeeaaaaally carefully, you might be able to preserve the length per Brad's design.

I think if you leave it as is, you'll be barking your heels an awful lot since the crank set will be angled downward - depends on what size of shoe you wear. Not sure I can make any comments on the chain management bit and ease of access. I think you'll find the chain return probably closer to a straight line, and you might need to tweak the idler under the seat a bit more as it looks like the angle will be shallower.

Can't hurt to try it and see how it feels. If it's too comfy and you get the urge to sleep, you might want to correct the angle for sure!
:-)

Cashew
07-07-2013, 07:25 PM
Dkerrivan thanks for the comments. I got the grinder out and after taking the front boom welds off,cut the boom free. Saved the length of the center boom. Another photo, shows the seat angle 45, and new bottom seat height is 8 inches, front is at 13 inches. I think I can live with this height. Spend some time cutting my donor bottom bracket and headset.

http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/fishernuts/media/warriorrecutboom_zps01b3cd60.jpg.html

If anyone sees anything wrong with this, please let me know. Will start again in the morning, it's been fun reading everyone else's build the past few years, almost funner building one myself. Can't wait to ride though.
Cashew

darnthedog
07-08-2013, 12:22 AM
Cashew
That 5 to 13 sets up the rake and trail of the steering boom. If that 5 to 13 is not maintained it may affect steering when completed. Actually it is NOT 13 inches it is 5 to 11 inches. See page 32- the so called 45 degree is not 45.
So detach the seat back tube from the seat tube. The seat tube sets up the rake and trail once the cross booms are attached.
Hope that helps.

Cashew
07-08-2013, 11:26 AM
Darnthedog, Thanks for the reply as well. I've got big feet so going with 13 instead of 11 to make sure I don't get heel strike. I did cut the seat tube off and got my 5 inch ground clearance back. The front boom cut was definitely upside down, but looks great now. Tacked the forks on, and ran out of wire. Oh well, needed a break sometime. Got some other project out of the way. Will pick up wire and a few more cutting and flap discs, while taking the kids out to lunch. Hope to get some metal burnt this afternoon. Still smiling, keeping a build diary and my times are extended, due to the grind and re-cutting. I'm sure almost everyone goes through the same, better to cut twice than to leave crooked.
Cashew

darnthedog
07-08-2013, 11:59 AM
What I did was I left the seat tube continue rather than cut where the 11 Inch point was supposed to be. The 5 to 11 inch rise is a critical angle for the front wheels. Going to 13 may cause steering issues. If you extend the seat tube beyond the 26 and maintained the 6 inch rise then you should be ok. That seat tube is you control angle for rake and trail once the front cross booms are attached to it. I understand the need for a higher bottom bracket as my planned front gear is nearly 20". By allowing the seat tube to continue beyond the plans call out I got a nice rise on a single piece. Hope that all makes sense. Just trying to keep you from having either too squirrelly or too slow of steering.
Have fun.

Cashew
07-08-2013, 12:23 PM
I'll remeasure with my shoes to see if I can get away with the 11. I ordered new clipless pedals and ragster II sandals to go with it. I wish they were here and I'd know for sure. My kids asked what's up with the saw blade, massive gear on your trike? I was wondering as well. Appreciate the comments. Off to Lunch.

darnthedog
07-08-2013, 01:02 PM
The intent of my saw tooth is to build a very high speed trike to challenge Battle Mountain Nevada's Human Powered speed challenge held in September. 5 miles to get as fast as you can go. Top speed so far has been a little over 81 mph. With my planned gearing I hope to reach ~ 129 mph. I have a long way to go to test and build. The trike will fully enclosed once I prove to myself that it can be peddled.
The front 120 tooth gear will be attached to a Schlumpf HSD which gives the front tooth 2.5 increase in speed. So my planned 30 rpm will be spinning that gear at 75 rpm when in high speed. The rear wheel is 36 inch monster developed for Unicycles. It is attached to a N360 hub by Nuvinci. Attached to a 16 tooth drive gear. Per calculators @ 30 rpm the trike should obtain the speed. But it is all calculated theory until it is built and ridden. Money, time, other commitments have held it up. Also a key component the front gears were held up. But they are available now once again.
As I said if you just keep the very front atached straight it rise to a very nice height. So the seat boom does not get cut at the 26 mark just leave it.

I may be rebuilding my warrior once I test the gearing. It is a bit long but I have ideas to fix it.
Have fun with your build.

Cashew
07-08-2013, 02:18 PM
That's crazy fast, hope you get it all together and working. Gotta see the video of that. Picked up the welding wire, and wheels. Finishing lunch and then out to the garage.

darnthedog
07-08-2013, 04:00 PM
Check out YouTube; search hpsc or battle mountain to see previous races

Cashew
07-08-2013, 07:43 PM
I watched a few of videos of battle mountain on youtube, really cool. Good luck with your build. I welded up the boom, everything is back where it should be. Almost looks like a trike, only 1 wheel but the wife is impressed so far. Had some errands to run, might sneak in a bit of time before bed.

Cashew
07-09-2013, 06:56 PM
Managed to weld the bottom bracket, need to cap and clean up welds. Might drill out the bracket first, along with cutting and drilling axle tabs. Pouring down rain at the moment, garage keeps me dry though. Spent some quality time truing my wheels, drilled a scrap piece of wood for my DIY truing stand, clamped in my vise and using miter table from belt sander as a caliper gauge. It's not pretty but worked fine. Excuse the messy workshop. Added Velo rim tape, new tubes and a couple of really tight Crazy Bob tires and the wheels are done. Wasn't sure I would get the tires on, thumbs are sore but glad it's done. I'd build my own again,if/when necessary. Double wall rims, SS spokes, Bitex hubs, and Avid BB7's complete the wheel build. Set out my accessories to get an idea where everything will go once it's rolling on 3 wheels. Debating on style of seat, will make a wood one in the meantime.

http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/fishernuts/media/Truingstand_zps11c6044c.jpg.html

http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/fishernuts/media/Wheeltruing_zps7555ff5c.jpg.html

http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/fishernuts/media/Wheelsdone_zpsfdb8d0d9.jpg.html

Ticktock
07-10-2013, 08:52 AM
Does the wheel color indicate the colors for later?
Looks good.
Steve G
Beijing

Radical Brad
07-10-2013, 09:15 AM
Those rims are great! I will have to look for anodized rims for my next trike or quad build.

Brad

Cashew
07-10-2013, 10:36 AM
Steve & Brad, thanks. I'd love a candy apple red, but don't think I'd be able to match the rims. So going with a bright yellow frame, black on the steering and hubs.I like the look on Brad's machines, the red will be an accent color where I can pick up a bit of color. Just came in from cutting headsets off frames, thumbs are no longer sore, but grinder vibration making hands a bit numb. Time to take a break and cool down, 83 in the shade, going to be a sunny day. I was worried the most about cutting the headsets, but so far so good. I still need to cut them down and weld them to size. Both steering headsets came from two side of the road bikes that were rusted out. Mom picked up the girls bike, I trash picked the other 2 years ago. My good donor bike is supplying the USS tube, no hard feelings cutting it apart. My rear rim is still silver from the donor, yes having all 3 red would be cool, but trying to keep within my estimated build cost. Will be interesting once it's done to add it all up. I can always add a rim down the road, the wife is being super supportive of all of this.
Cashew

Ticktock
07-10-2013, 11:09 AM
Hi,
Color matching is always a problem . When I was building Horse drawn carriages, in the end it was easier to pick the carpet first, match that with a paint (always tried to use cans) and then select seat covering.
Go the other way, and you had little choice in carpet! Heaps of choice in fabric.
Steve G

Tradetek
07-10-2013, 06:09 PM
I have not used this paint, and don't know how much a can of it is, but I do know that they are a big brand in the aftermarket/custom car painting business.

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/perfectMatch/

Bill

Cashew
07-10-2013, 07:03 PM
I looked at several brands of paint and the Duplicolor was one of them to see if I could get close. I bet if I threw a bunch of money at it, could get a match. But as much as I'd like to try an airbrush, it ain't happening anytime soon. Graucho has some great videos and does awesome work. I got my drilling done on the bottom bracket and also the steering tabs. My Father in Law gave me some Uni Bits as a present, maybe 22 years ago or so. (He would have enjoyed seeing this project,been about 6 yrs since he passed). I use them whenever I can find them. :builder2: Used the smaller one to get up to 1/2" then mid sized for rest of it. I have to ream out the hole with a dremel tool, to remove the steps. Clipless pedals and Ragster sandals came, they were not kidding when saying the knubs on the inner sole were rough. I ran a cotton buffing wheel across them with the dremel, much better.

http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/fishernuts/media/Unibits_zpsdb3ef0d6.jpg.html

Cashew
07-10-2013, 11:43 PM
Steering tabs are done. Even with nice bits, I had to grind out the steps left from the step drill. Killed off my Dremel, oh well kids said it was old( to them it was). Ran out and picked up my 4th Dremel and $80 dollars lighter was able to finish the job. Kept stopping to run air into the tool to keep the heat down, surprising how hot they can get. I'm using 20 MM bolts and boy holes that size are huge. If the steering tabs were made available, It would be money well spent. If I did it again, would see about hiring someone to drill them to size. Can't say anything on this trike wasn't hand made and given lots of love.
Cashew

Cashew
07-11-2013, 07:54 PM
Managed to shorten the head tubes successfully, then shorten and re-lengthen headsets. :dunce2: Actually one still needs a final weld. Exchanged bottom bracket bolts for longer ones, and scored 2 pulleys, with nut/bolt and metal strap. I figure the time saved on not making pulleys about equals my shrinking/stretching headsets. :1eye: Wore the Ragster II sandals out today, and other than the occasional clicking on asphalt they were great.

http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/fishernuts/media/Steeringtabs_zps2afdf178.jpg.html

http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/fishernuts/media/Pulleys_zps4fbd3cc1.jpg.html

FrankCrank
07-11-2013, 08:32 PM
Hi Cashew,

In that pic it looks like you're using the step drill to punch through what.....1/2 inch plate? Very ambitious!

Picked up a set of step drills recently, but yet to use them. My understanding is they are meant for relatively thin metals, and that the thickness should not exceed one step of the step drill....if that makes sense? Maybe someone with more experience can chip in here to confirm either way. Also, has anyone used them on stainless steel - maybe now I'm being over ambitious :) Cheers - Frank.

Ticktock
07-11-2013, 08:39 PM
What are Ragster 11 Sandals?----(-I know,----- Sandals made by Ragster!)
Steve G,
Beijing

Ticktock
07-11-2013, 08:43 PM
Judging by the degree of difficulty in drilling stainless with normal drills--which is about 11.9, compared to using very expensive special drills, degree of difficulty about 9, I would suspect that you are looking at a degree of difficulty of about 110 . Good reason to stay friends with the local machine shop!
Normal drills on mild steel are about a 5 on this scale,
Steve G

Ticktock
07-11-2013, 08:46 PM
Now, to be serious, on kitchen bench top grade stainless, they work fine--any thing cuts that stuff, but tools don't stay sharp for long.
Thicker stuff would be a battle, or impossible, depending upon the grade of steel. Even the drillable grades are almost impossible with a hand drill and normal drills.
Steve G

FrankCrank
07-11-2013, 09:07 PM
...have done some 10mm drilling of stainless box-section recently for some kitchen shelving, and it certainly focuses the mind!
Using regular HSS bits, and a hand drill in one of those stand thingies, and once you know the technique it's not so bad. As soon as you ease up the pressure and it starts to rub....well, that bit is rubber-ducked for sure and needs sharpening. A drill press would be better - more speed control - and it's on my list for Santa. Also, a bench grinder for those tungstens....

Cashew
07-11-2013, 09:15 PM
The clipless sandals are from Nashbar, called Ragster II. I don't normally wear shoes or socks very often. Prefer to live in my Crocs or regular sandals. I understand leg suck can happen, and with my health issues it's cheap insurance to attach my feet to the pedals and keep them there.

If I had a 20 MM bit would have used it, actually didn't look to see what it would have cost to purchase. I knew it would be tough, but thankfully my drill press with plenty of cooling liquid and shots of compressed air kept the bit and steel under control. They work better in thin metals,and also in wood. I figure once my headset is done, then I'm halfway there. I know the steering booms are going to be fun as well. Anxious to get a temporary seat on to see how it feels.

Cashew
07-11-2013, 10:00 PM
Got a burst of energy, finished the last cut and re-weld of 2nd headset. Also did another pass weld on bottom bracket. I'll clean them off when it's not so late, making nice with the neighborhood. I don't complain about their professional fireworks display each year, this year was only one night. Both sides of the house, do them but the ones to the south do it nicer. So long as they don't burn down my house I'm happy. Wife was asking, "Can't I just buy the seat?". Gotta love that, but let her know that I'll be making that as well. I could run downstairs and knock out the temporary wood seat, beats watching TV.

Tradetek
07-12-2013, 04:16 AM
Also, a bench grinder for those tungstens....

Don't bother with the grinder for tungstens. I started off that way and they worked fine, but say a tip to use really fine grit Dremel diamond grinding wheels.

I got a 300 grit for like $3 on Amazon, and I can now sharpen 10 tungstens in 5 minutes with a very nice polish that has helped my arc nicely.

Bill

Ticktock
07-12-2013, 11:03 AM
Might seem a dumb question--but I see no clips so clipless is correct. What keeps you feet on those things that go round and round when you push them?
Steve G

Cashew
07-12-2013, 07:39 PM
Ticktock from what I understand, Clip shoes & pedals were named when they came out with Toe clips. So when they developed shoes with "cleats" on the bottom of the shoes both recessed and exposed cleats, they named them "Clipless" since no clip. Well the cleat does attach to clipless pedals. Have heard some refer to them as cleated shoes/pedals, but they go by the name of clipless. They twist in and out, some are one direction only, some are multiple release points.

Tradetek
07-12-2013, 10:44 PM
Yep, "clipless" is the correct term for cleated shoes.

Ticktock
07-13-2013, 10:31 AM
So these Ragsters do clip onto the pedals ---next dumb question is how, as the photos seem to show a normal sole!
Looks like you could walk down the street in them. So do you need special pedals?.
I would like to clip in but do want to have funny shoes on when I get for the trike.
Steve G

darnthedog
07-13-2013, 11:35 AM
When looking at website there is a pull away area that I am guessing has the screw holes to mount the cleats. Why they hide them is anybodies guess. Maybe the protect the threads till cleats are mounted. But I have noted this on other "clipless" shoes. The panel pulls away allowing screws to be applied.

Tradetek
07-13-2013, 04:40 PM
Clipless pedals use a standard mounting system.

The shoes ship with the cleat area sealed so that they can double as regular riding shoes which have a stiffer sole than a normal athletic shoe in order to prevent bending and loss of power when "mashing" which makes them more effective even without a clipless pedals.

To install the cleat in the shoes/sandals, you rip out the oblong area in the sole just under the ball of the foot and that reveals two slots that are normally about an inch or so long, that this normally requires the use of a pair of pliers... You will also need to remove the insole to reveal the inner portion of the cleat mounting area.

When you buy a pair of pedals, there should be cleat mounting plates and cleats with the pedals because not all mountain bike clipless cleat bolt patterns are the same even though they may not all use the SPD type clip system (note that road racing style bikes use a completely different system). Typically this is a rectangular piece of metal with threaded hole pieces protruding from them. You place the metal bracket in the inside of the shoe sole with the threaded protrusions pushing through the slots, then you attach the cleat.

Note that the following procedures are easier if you have someone help you adjust the cleats and release mechanisms.

To begin, install the cleat so that the screws are just a tad loose as they need to "float" into your custom position before tightening them down.

Once you have the cleat attached to the sole of each shoe, put the insole back in and then prop the cycle on something so that the drive wheel can spin. Normally you can throw something together using a couple of 2x4's, but an indoor training on a single drive rear wheel would be best. If you are doing a delta you can prop the non drive wheel on a brick or pieces of wood that the trick is at least near level. If this is a tadpole then you just need to prop up the single wheel. If you can't prop the cycle up, tighten the screws so that the cleats will move with effort but not loose enough that move easily, and do the required pedaling by actually riding. If you are using a 2 wheel bent, then you definitely want a helper, and a place you can ride up to and grab something with your hands to hold yourself upright while your helper does their tasks.

Note, with either method, you will be pedaling for a few minutes because you want to mash the pedals hard after spinning for a few minutes so that cleats start to press into the plastic mid-sole making them easier to tightening in the right place each round.

Also, because you want the cleats to float into a natural position for your pedaling motion, you need to lock out the pedal release motion as much as possible because right now you don't want the pedal float to cause you to get the cleat into a position that is not your biomechanically optimal position because having them in the wrong position can put stresses on your knee that are not comfortable or good for your knee ligaments and tendons. Finally, at the end, the cleat should generally be directly under the ball of your foot or slightly to the outside of the ball of your foot (meaning your foot will be slightly closer to the frame).

After doing all that, put your shoes on and clip in, yes I understand the confusion in terminology, but what can I say, it is what it is... Once you are clipped in, you want to pedal in an easy gear until you feel like you are in a natural position. Next there are two options depending on if you have a helper.

With Help - While still clipped in, have your helper tighten the cleat bolts a LITTLE through the pedal. If the pedals are designed in a way that prevents access to the cleat bolts through the pedal, then have the helper manually loosen the pedal release mechanism as much as possible and then manually release the cleat using a screwdriver or something. Then tighten down the bolts a LITTLE.

Without Help - With your feet still attached to the pedals, very, very carefully remove your feet from your shoes. Then follow the directions in the "With Help" description above.

Repeat procedure a couple of times until the cleat bolts are completely tightened. I normally try to take 3-4 runs through the positioning procedure.

After you have the cleats fully tightened, you need to adjust the pedal float. I normally prefer to do the initial adjustments by starting with the shoes clipped in but the release mechanism fully loosened so that it is easy to get the shoes in and out by hand. Then slowly tighten down the release mechanism until it takes effort to release the shoes by hand. Then put the shoes on and clip in and adjust the tightness until the release effort is comfortable, but not too loose that your foot is released to easily because then you would be slipping out of pedal on accident all the time because most people don't keep their feet in a constant position throughout a full revolution of their pedal stroke.

Keep in mind that you pay attention to not only the amount of pressure required to release the cleats, but that you want to make sure that the cleats are positioned side to side with enough room to allow you to release the pedals by turning your heel towards the bike frame if there is an obstruction like the chainrings on the right foot and the derailleur tube (seat tube in proper bicycle terms which is what you will see in the pedals directions).

You also need to make sure that the release is tightened enough that the upward/back pull does not cause the cleat to get released because with clipless pedals your body will quickly discover that each foot can participate in the entire pedal revolution, not just the down stroke. This will happen to a point where going back to a bike without clips causes you to constantly pull your feet off the pedals without concentration!

Under no circumstances should you tighten the release mechanism all the way. The "float" is the freeplay in the release mechanism that allows you to have some freedom for your feet to move a little during your normal pedal stroke. Without float you are just asking for knee problems and should just make a future appointment with the orthopod so you don't have to wait when you start to have pain on the inside of your knees because you have caused ligament damage.

Now that I have scared you a little, rest assured that clipless pedals are the best thing in the world of cycling and provide significant performance and efficiency gains.

Happy pedalling,

Bill

Cashew
07-13-2013, 05:52 PM
Tradetek that is the best instructions I have seen for adjusting the clipless cleats and pedals. I'll be using your instructions once my build is a roller. Adding a photo of the Sandals with cleats attached, pedal and rubber cutout all shown. I used a knife to cut the rubber away, it's rubber cemented in so a little tug and it was off. The cleat threaded inserts were already in place and this version didn't need to do anything topside with the insole. Was really easy to mount the included cleats that came with the pedals.

http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/fishernuts/media/RagsterIIsandals_zpsa8a9eb73.jpg.html

Cut and welded the steering booms to the headset tubes. The grinder gods took pity on me and fishmouthing went better than I could have imagined. I did use the cutoffs from the headset tube to mark where material needed to be ground down, since it still had paint on the tube a small hit with the hammer left a paint mark on the high spots. My last couple welds actually looks like I know how to use a welder. Will recheck previous welds to make sure they are up to snuff as well. Letting the garage cool down while updating here. Made a seat template out of cardboard to see how it looks before cutting a wood one. Should have a rolling frame very soon. Need to finalize seat material and pickup tubing for steering and fine threaded nuts to match the Spherical bearings that I purchased.
Cashew

Ticktock
07-13-2013, 09:43 PM
Wow--That's going to full detail!
I'm not too sure that this is the way form me to go, as I need to be able to use any pair of shoes, walk normally, and have pedals any one can use. Right now , going thru my mind (easy--heads empty) is the"old" style toe clips and straps as a compromise deal.
I agree with you, that once used to clips you would find it hard to keep feet on the peddals--even now, I find myself trying to pull the peddals up (or back?), and there is no clip!
Steve G

Tradetek
07-13-2013, 10:56 PM
Cashew: Glad to help. I've ridden SPD's since they were invented (literally) and have heard to many stories of knee pain from people who didn't understand how to properly fit them so in my mind it was time well spent to lay out the details. I had a feeling that your sandals might have the adapter built into them. It's been about 8 years since I bought a pair of pedals and shoes and it wouldn't surprise me to find out that most shoes have the adapter plates already inside of the sole.

Steve: As long as you get mountain SPD shoes, they are designed to be able to walk in normally. It is the road shoes that you can't walk in. Because they are much stiffer than regular shoes, they do have a small curve to the bottom to make walking easier. The main sole is a high durometer rubber. It is only the midsole that is stiff plastic sandwiched with another midsole that is the normal foam rubber cushioning material.

Also, you can now get SPD pedals that have a regular platform on one side and the cleat clip on the other.

Check out the Shimano PD-M324.

Bill

Ibedayank
07-14-2013, 06:48 AM
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Wellgo-Multi-Function-Mountain-Bike-Pedals-Shimano-SPD-Compatible-Silver-/00/s/NjAwWDU2Ng==/$T2eC16hHJG!E9nm3sB1YBQ,238SHHg~~60_12.JPG

you mean pedals like these?
leg suck is something to be avoided on a trike..

Ticktock
07-14-2013, 08:32 AM
Thanks--I think the local bike shop has these--might be a different story on shoes for a big foot in a little foot country!
Steve G

Tradetek
07-14-2013, 02:20 PM
Ibedeyank, it is hard to tell from the pictures you posted, those may very well be single sided pedals with the SPD on only one side but no platform on the other.

Typically these pedals are weighted such that the SPD face is always pointed back towards the rider, but in the end only one side is usable.

Can you post the manufacturer and model number?

Bill

Cashew
07-14-2013, 04:05 PM
Pedals shown ,I can see were from Ebay. Wellgo Multi-Function Mountain Bike Pedals Shimano SPD Compatible Silver.
Wear Cycling Shoes or Normal Shoes

Body: Aluminium Barrel Silver
Cage: Aluminium Silver
Spindle: Cr-Mo
Bearing: Ball Bearing
Size: 101.7 x 65.4 x 29.8mm
Thread size: 9/16"
Cleat: Wellgo 98A (Included) or Shimano 51 compatible (Not included)
Weight: 370g or 13 oz/Pair
Package: Two pedals with cleats
Warranty: One year


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wellgo-Multi-Function-Mountain-Bike-Pedals-Shimano-SPD-Compatible-Silver-/280978558075?pt=US_Pedals&hash=item416ba08c7b

Just came in and I'm tired. Welded steering tabs to headsets, took a few attempts to get the second side to match the first. I know better than to cut the steering booms till I get a break and get my head back on straight. It's 88' but the garage feels mid 90's, fan is blowing but not enough.
Wishing all a great afternoon/evening.

Ibedayank
07-14-2013, 06:03 PM
heres the same ones in black... note the spikes on one side true SPD pedals look like eggbeaters
so why have the the wraparound metal with spikes on one side if not multiple use pedals?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wellgo-Multi-Function-Mountain-Bike-Pedals-Shimano-SPD-Compatible-Black-/300916838908?pt=US_Pedals&hash=item46100a91fc


(http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wellgo-Multi-Function-Mountain-Bike-Pedals-Shimano-SPD-Compatible-Black-/300916838908?pt=US_Pedals&hash=item46100a91fc) Wear Cycling Shoes or Normal Shoes

Body: Aluminium Barrel Silver
Cage: Aluminium Black
Spindle: Cr-Mo
Bearing: Ball Bearing
Size: 101.7 x 65.4 x 29.8mm
Thread size: 9/16"
Cleat: Wellgo 98A (Included) or Shimano 51 compatible (Not included)
Weight: 370g or 13 oz/Pair
Package: Two pedals with cleats
Warranty: One year




(http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wellgo-Multi-Function-Mountain-Bike-Pedals-Shimano-SPD-Compatible-Black-/300916838908?pt=US_Pedals&hash=item46100a91fc)

Cashew
07-14-2013, 07:10 PM
They are multi use pedals, can wear clipless shoes or regular foot wear. I was doing to go with a dual platform pedal, but figure I'm the only one riding this, will make it comfy for me. Had heard good things about the sandals, lot cooler than shoes, can wear socks if desired, straps loosen/tighten up as needed. The sandals are pretty comfy for walking in, have worn them out several times now.

FrankCrank
07-14-2013, 08:26 PM
....well, I'm a little baffled by all this talk of 'leg suck' and it's looming danger when riding a trike. Been riding my trike here for 15 months or so and my footwear is a pair offlip-flops, and pedals just ordinary cheapo resin ones. Never had a foot slip off the pedal, or ever felt it was about to happen. Am I ignorant of something blindingly obvious here, would rather count by good fortune to date and prepare for this imminent danger that's eluded me so far. Not trying to belittle anything being said on this subject - just curious ......

Cashew
07-14-2013, 08:49 PM
Since I started the thread... I was originally planning on just wearing my crocs. However I have read enough that leg suck can happen, anything is possible. I figure $60 (for the pedals/sandals) it's cheap insurance to prevent it from happening to me. A Dr. or Hospital visit would cost me more, and with prior health issues I might not be so lucky to heal or survive such an injury. I want my trike riding experience to be all about health and having fun, but understand accidents happen and do what I can to mitigate the possibilities. I picked up a new helmet as well. I know helmets are a touchy/feeling for some, I figure it's a good example for my sons and my Scouts.
Cashew

Ibedayank
07-14-2013, 09:02 PM
....well, I'm a little baffled by all this talk of 'leg suck' and it's looming danger when riding a trike. Been riding my trike here for 15 months or so and my footwear is a pair offlip-flops, and pedals just ordinary cheapo resin ones. Never had a foot slip off the pedal, or ever felt it was about to happen. Am I ignorant of something blindingly obvious here, would rather count by good fortune to date and prepare for this imminent danger that's eluded me so far. Not trying to belittle anything being said on this subject - just curious ......

And what do you do to prevent being hit by a car? being your posting it's clear you have not been hit and killed by one but do you want to push your luck by riding under a large truck? With spd pedals you can pull on pedals as well as push so putting more power to the ground. All it takes is a good bump at speed at just the right time.

Tradetek
07-14-2013, 11:04 PM
Personally not worried about leg suck for myself but would be for my disabled son.

SPD pedals generate efficiency advantages because you can actually use each leg throughout the entire stroke versus just the down stroke, and trust me, after you get used to them, using regular pedals can be dangerous because you start to instinctively pull up on the rear foot and keep pulling your feet off of regular pedals.

Now as for the Wellgo pedals, I indicated that I wasn't sure if they had a useable platform on the non-cleat side because the main portion of the platform does not have any spikes, just the outside of the edge, and there are several cleated pedals that have wrap around platforms because they provide more stability that some people like now, not all of them are "egg beaters" as you put it. Some are actually as big as a BMX racing pedal.

Bill

FrankCrank
07-14-2013, 11:36 PM
....guess I'll never know what SPD's are like to use unless I try them out, and maybe I will at some stage. As to percieved and actual dangers, well, some might say it's dangerous getting out of bed in the morning, but most of us accept the risk :). Of course, everyone's circumstances are different, and having a disability or medical condition puts a different slant on things. Anyhow, no offence intended to anyone.....

EmteeOh
07-15-2013, 08:48 AM
Personally, I've hit a few bumps on my trike that did knock my feet off the pedals (before I had the SPDs installed). In one case, I wasn't going very fast, so I was not injured, but I completely saw what leg suck was like: my heel hit the ground and I basically got wedged between road and front forks before I could react. If I'd been going any faster, that would have been it. Having seen it and the size of my bruises from something that didn't even hurt, I'm not taking chances on that ever again.

But originally, I use SPDs because I already have them. The pedals are a cheap add-on to the trike, and like this, I've got one cycling shoe that works on both my bike and my trike.

Cashew
07-15-2013, 04:19 PM
EmteeOh, glad to hear you were not seriously hurt, good to hear first hand accounts to make sure others are aware and can take precautions if they so desire. Off tonight, it's a hot one and have a summer meeting with my Scouts, flipping burgers & dogs in front of a hot grill instead of welding. :1eye:
Cashew

Cashew
07-19-2013, 08:04 PM
Been a hot week, still 89 at 8pm. I brought the frame in and setup on the game table. Underneath my mess is a ping pong/air hockey/pool table. Used it to tear down my donor bike and parts storage for the new components. It was way too hot in the garage to get my steering booms aligned properly. Tonight cut both sides and are temporarily clamped together and all looks good.

http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/fishernuts/media/Steeringboomsdone_zps5d56efc5.jpg.html

Going to let it sit overnight and see if early morning can move it back to the garage to tack them in, hopefully when it's a bit cooler. Supposed to have a thunderstorm tonight. Starting to look like it could even be ridden. One more head tube to trim down for the USS, it's from my donor and the stem has a huge amount of aluminum that was the top of the forks. Have not been able to cut it off from the steel tube yet, tempted to cut it short and extend the tube and forget trying to cut it off. Seat is still on the drawing table, have an idea but might be getting too complex, instead of getting it complete.
Cashew

Cashew
07-21-2013, 07:09 PM
Much cooler today, http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/fishernuts/media/WeldedTodaySticker_zps1b982ed2.jpg.html Tacked both steering booms on, looked great so added all 3 wheels and measurements showed it was good. While removing the wheels, I dropped the front of the frame and popped one boom off from it's tacks. I was a big boy and didn't throw anything or even utter colorful language. :cheesy: I laughed it off, and said it figures I'd do that. Ground down the tacks,and reclamped and re-tacked the boom. Put several heavier tacks on it. Reinstalled wheels and booms are great, the opposite one that didn't fall off, the steering tab was tilted and wheel not 90', so decided to go with a full weld and then cut and bend the tab. Found my Birthday present, a welding blanket.

http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/fishernuts/media/Weldingblanket_zps285b6f53.jpg.html

Wrapped both front wheels and put full weld on both booms, unwrapped, removed wheels and welded the backside. Measured up and very happy. Took out the right stem and steering tab and made two cuts to create a hinge and between my 1lb hammer and pliers got the tab straight. After putting the wheels back, a bit more hammering it all came into alignment. Removed stem and wheel for a final re-weld of the tab. I honestly don't think anything has had only one weld, or done on the first try. My welding is 10 times better so did a once over and made sure welds had full penetration. Letting it cool down and will clean up welds and put wheels back on. Picked up fine threaded nuts for my steering bearings, still need rod or pipe for steering and seat material. I like the seat Spinner did, and might do something similar.
Wishing all well.
Cashew

Cashew
07-21-2013, 09:35 PM
Cleaned up the welds a bit and now it's official "It's a roller". http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/fishernuts/media/3Wheelsfrontview_zpse7490ae2.jpg.html

http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/fishernuts/media/3wheelssideview_zpscb9a6994.jpg.html


Updated my build log, and upcoming steps. Plan to pickup the last of the metal tomorrow.

Cashew
07-27-2013, 06:54 PM
Been a few days,and got a few things accomplished. Picked up aluminum plate for the seat, used the "armstrong method" of bending it. Clamped to work table with 2x4 and clamped another 2x4 to seat acting as a lever. I rolled a bend in the seat, over a 10" PVC pipe clamped to the table. I'm tired now, it takes a wee bit of pressure.

I'm skipping around the plans a lot, but trying to cut, clean and weld in that order multiple parts to keep it going. Cut & drilled all my steering tabs. I was concerned about how low the Warrior sits, but figured I'd get in shape just getting in and out of it. :punk: Seems to be working so far. Attached pedals to the bottom bracket and the build looks shorter now,was looking long and lean. I'm short one nut for the steering, cleaned out the one store but will travel to another today or next.

Steering is up next, felt better with the USS handlebar way back under the seat. Looks like will cut a 2nd set of handles off kiddie bike and weld to donor handlebar to get vertical handles. I have EMT and a bender if I feel it's not working. Debating on reflectors, front & back required in Michigan. I have rear wheel reflector, and ordered 2 sets of 3M Red reflective rim tape for all rims. It might take a month get imported in, but that's fine. Doing a few sketch's to fit 2 headlights (1 solar, 1 battery), 2 solar tail lights, horn and bike computer. Could have used old bike computer, but it's seen better days and way too many functions to relearn and use. Went with a basic one, speed, distance & time. The first part ordered was a cellphone case for my smarty phone, can use screen while attached to main tube. I don't think I'll need GPS, don't think I'll get lost since lived in the area my whole life. Only 65' out now, should be outside welding. I think our summer is over, feeling like an early fall.
Take it easy.
Cashew

Cashew
08-01-2013, 08:39 PM
Over the last few days, got my steering up and running. The tie rod to each wheel was easy, after I got the hang of welding the nut on the pipe and still have the nut useable and allow the spherical bearing to adjust in and out of the pipe. First store had 3 nuts, next had a pack of 6 used all 6, 4 on the trike and two among my weld scrap. :builder2:

The control arm to steering wheel tab was a bit trickier, between welding and grinding off I think I'm on my 5th fit and after busting it off last night. Was enjoying a nice sit on the trike and torqued the handlebar, good job. It's been reattached and reinforced, so unless I run it over a road hazard or drop into a pothole it should stay. Chain pulleys went on too easy, I'm suspicious they might fall off or something, well maybe they will behave. :pirate: They saw what I did to the rest of the welds that don't cooperate.

Found my rear derailleur that I purchased as a replacement for the donor bike, was a decent bike the chain had fallen and ripped off the derailleur and bent the chain badly. Was a perfect excuse to save the rest of the bike for this project. Rear derailleur is on, but I see I need to add a few links back to the chain, to get it down where it should be hanging instead of stretched out acting useless.

Now I know better than to tool off down the road, no brakes, chain is hitting the steering and just know I'd rip off the new derailleur, and of course the seat is just balancing on the frame. I closed the garage and called it a night. Need to buy a length of flex pipe for the return tube, one store was out when I last looked.

I think I have where all the doo dads will go. Waiting on a sample of seat padding, I'm hoping it comes in tomorrow.
Happy thoughts Zombies.
Cashew

Ticktock
08-01-2013, 08:56 PM
Sounds like good progress has been made!!
Any pics of these events?
Steve G
Beijing

Cashew
08-02-2013, 06:58 PM
Here's a photo, be kind on the weld inspection. http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/fishernuts/media/Rearchain_zpsa6f82461.jpg.html

I picked up some poly pipe for the chain return, had it in black but was looking thin, had a choice between an orangish red and a pipe in blue. The blue pipe followed me home, with another can of spray paint. Had a dream about the frame color and it wasn't yellow like a had originally planned. We will see what happens. Ordered new grips this afternoon, the handle bars will work, but might have to add an inch to each bar end. The SRAM twist shifters from my donor are wider than I remembered. Need to pick up some wire to extend the bike computer connection. Had thoughts about making a rear rack, and running a rear fender. Mailman didn't bring my seat pad sample fabric, did bring a raincoat/windbreaker. Wife says I can only wear it riding, I thought dayglow green would look good going to church.
Here's to a productive weekend,
Cashew

darnthedog
08-02-2013, 08:04 PM
Photo may be misleading but it looks like the chain might be a bit short. It appears the rear derailuers are stretched out a bit too much. May be optical illusion. But I thought I'd mention it. And from this vantage point the welding looks fine.

Cashew
08-02-2013, 09:12 PM
Photo is right, and you as well. I need to split the chain add the tubes and lengthen the chain, the derailleur is not correct in the photo. I'll measure the links to see how many I need to add, I think 4 or 5 might do it. The pulleys line up nicely though. Thanks for pointing it out, and the welding comment. My son's keep joking about my welds, anytime one of the welds failed was due to being an early weld. A month later and they are all good. Just dropped a few dollars on my lighting for the trike. Hope to get the seat and chain line in order tomorrow morning. Can't wait to take it for a spin. Did mock up the brake brackets in cardboard, so they should be cut and welded Saturday as well.

Cashew
08-03-2013, 07:32 PM
No photos of today's progress. Morning went great, added about 12 links to the chain. Derailleur is now where it should be, drilled out the drop out for the derailleur screw to keep it in position. Chain tube brackets cut, ready to drill and bend. Afternoon added a upper seat post and not loving it, changed the angle twice. 3rd try hopefully will be better. I took the trike for it's first spin, down the drive and across the lawn was great. Steering worked well, went round the tree trying to decide if I go for broke and head around the house. Didn't make it, a crappy weld on the bottom bracket came off, but not before I bent one bolt and twisted the second bracket. Wheeled back into the garage, back up on the bench to unbolt what's left of the bottom bracket. I knew this early weld was suspect and was planning on rewelding. Well I think I get to cut off the one side and make a new bracket, it should give me good luck. :elvis:

1 step forward and 3 steps back, but still smiling and having fun. Getting toward the end of a spool of wire and it's not wound great. Tempted to pull off and put on a new spool that I have. On my second sanding wheel, boy it's quick work on the mill scale than the worn one that I've been using. Seat padding still didn't come today.

Cashew
08-03-2013, 09:31 PM
Cut off the twisted bracket, ground down the welds from the bottom bracket. Cut and fish mouthed new brackets, will weld them in the morning when I'm wide awake. Feeling good, starting off fresh tomorrow.

Cashew
08-04-2013, 04:54 PM
Drilled out the new brackets, had to pick up a new set of bolts. Welded up the bottom bracket, looking good now. Still messing with the seat upper support post.
http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/fishernuts/media/Seatpost_zps3f6c374d.jpg.html
I've changed the angle, moved the post back as far as possible, and cutting an inch off at a time. The blue pad is temporary, the seat is not comfy in the shoulder area. Before installing the post, I had the seat curved and just off the tire(width of a can of mosquito spray). :cheesy:

Not sure if I need to cut the post shorter or mess with angle. Any suggestions on the seat angle? The seat material is 1/8 " Stainless steel plate. 9 inch wide and leaving it long for a mud guard.
Cashew

Cashew
08-10-2013, 09:52 PM
I finished up both brake brackets and welded them on. I was scared about welding it on, I could imagine getting splatter on rims, brake disk and all. I wrapped the tire and everything except the mount up in a welding blanket, it went smooth. Second side went even faster. Pulled the brakes and wheels off to let everything cool down, the backside weld pulled the minor warping right back where it was supposed to be. No photos today, was busy trying to get stuff done. Cut another upper back support and the seat feels much better.

Was trying to keep the seat all one piece, put I'm going to cut it into 3 pieces as suggested. Correction the seat it's not SS, it's Aluminum plate.:1eye:

Made the seat tabs, and just finished drilling them out. . Cleaned up rear wheel rim, reflective rim tape came in. It's not looking reflective to me, it's bright and shiny red, but it's not reflective and it's going back. I did get the sample seat pad material, and it's what I want. Will order this week, and have more details then. Still couple more parts to get shipped in, but it's final shape is almost done and almost rideable. I don't think I'll get back to the build till mid week, distractions till then.
Here's to a great weekend.
Cashew

Cashew
08-15-2013, 08:55 PM
http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/fishernuts/media/Seat2_zps3312cacb.jpg.htm

Busy couple of days, Welded on the seat tabs and bolted 2 of the 3 seat sections on. Still not super comfy with the seat. Might cut off the middle tabs and move the seat farther back, and leave a gap between bottom and middle for a bit of airflow. Wife saw a tadpole in the neighborhood and thought I was done and out riding around. Was nice that she was excited about me finishing, but nope wasn't me. Not yet anyways.

[/url][IMG]http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/fishernuts/media/Seat1_zpsa92e6536.jpg.htm

Hand grips came in,I think everything will fit on the bars without extending the ends. Ordered the seat padding, decals and accessories are in a pile, waiting after paint. I'm hoping I get to ride it for real this weekend, if nothing else comes up.

Cashew

Ticktock
08-15-2013, 09:51 PM
Sorry to say, neither link worked for me--first came up with error message, second one not recognised as a link.
Steve G

TexasTuff
08-15-2013, 10:12 PM
Is this the one you were trying to show?
http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/fishernuts/media/Seat1_zpsa92e6536.jpg.html
Or maybe I can do it this way.
http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag41/fishernuts/Seat1_zpsa92e6536.jpg

The easiest way to do this is go to the picture you want to display. Right click on the picture and copy the picture URL. Come back to AZ and press on the image button and right click on url box. Paste the URL you copied from you photo source.

On the first link I posted you can browse the entire folder of pictures.

tomelect
08-16-2013, 04:43 AM
Looking good, what type of seat are you making.

Tom

MrIdaho
08-16-2013, 06:51 AM
When posting pictures I found it easier for the person reading the post to have the picture included in the actual post, not the URL. I copy the IMG instead of the URL.

Cashew
08-17-2013, 12:05 PM
I appreciate the help with the photos as much as the build help.Zombie's rule. Here goes, another step forward and 3 back.The good, bad and the ugly. First the bad and ugly. The good is cooling off.

Here is attempt # 1 which I bent the bracket on it's only ride out the garage, when a weld failed. Attempt #2 is attached, I bumped up to 1/2" brackets. All was well except I forgot to cover the threads with foil and mucked it up. The welds have not been ground down.

http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag41/fishernuts/BB1stand2nd_zps8d16a995.jpg (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/fishernuts/media/BB1stand2nd_zps8d16a995.jpg.html)

So the fix was to cut off the bottom bracket, I tried to clean the threads, wire wheel, heat, nothing worked. I didn't want to run to the LBS and see if they would tap the threads. So I have a "New Donor", it's almost a year old and it gave up it's BB willingly. Last year I bought 2 bikes for the kids, oldest going to college and has a nice set of 4 wheels so bike was lonely.

Here is the damage to the threads, I knew better and should have covered them. Did the previous time. Oh well, it's moving in the right direction know.
http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag41/fishernuts/CutBB_zps91f78cdf.jpg (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/fishernuts/media/CutBB_zps91f78cdf.jpg.html)

I did weld the new BB onto the remains of the old BB, it looks decent and will work out. Good thing I'm not a weight weenie, pretty much the opposite. I might catch a nap and start back in. I think I got the photo thing now. :punk:
Cashew


http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag41/fishernuts/SplatterinBB_zpsfc29cff1.jpg (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/fishernuts/media/SplatterinBB_zpsfc29cff1.jpg.html)

MrIdaho
08-17-2013, 12:20 PM
Shouldn't be welding so close to the threads on the BB.
in PHOTOBUCKET just copy the img link, no need to copy the url.
I usually copy the img link then paste into my MS notepad then if I want multiple pics just copy the img link then paste all the links at one time. Saves lots of time. So far never had any issues.
Boy that tire is sure close to the backrest.

Cashew
08-17-2013, 12:54 PM
I agree on the threads, still working on the pics. I'm not happy with the upper backrest, it IS close to the tire. Once I wear out this tire or get tired(no pun intended) of the knobby tread will change it to a smoother tire. Seat's just not yet comfy, yet.

HHJJ
08-17-2013, 01:49 PM
Thanks for showing us your trials and tribulations Cashew.
I was just about to look up how to protect BB for welding

Cashew
08-17-2013, 07:29 PM
http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag41/fishernuts/Newbottombracket_zps49117828.jpg (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/fishernuts/media/Newbottombracket_zps49117828.jpg.html)
Here is the new bottom bracket, from my new donor. It's got a different thread so was unable to use first Crankset, and cranks. I had to switch to the new crankset, and cranks. New crank has a higher tooth count, will see what that gives me for gearing. It's also closer to the boom and will have to work on chain clearance for my smallest ring.

http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag41/fishernuts/Cranksets_zps62ab7bdf.jpg (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/fishernuts/media/Cranksets_zps62ab7bdf.jpg.html)

Played with the seat some more and added upper seat tabs which are cooling off now. Still need to drill out upper back rest.

Cashew
08-17-2013, 08:20 PM
I figured out the chain clearance, welding the nuts to the right side bracket so the bolts pass from the left under the boom and through the nut and flush with the right bracket. Will switch back to shorter bolts tomorrow. Looks like I'll be making a 1/8 spacer with a square hole to shim out the smallest chain ring. Might get a ride tomorrow. I've been enjoying the build and getting lots of exercise with lifting the trike on and off the workbench, putting parts on and off many, many times. I've much more flexible now a month later. Here I thought the exercise would start when the build was done, cruising the streets. But the bonus exercise is showing it's benefits already. Between eating better and playing with the build it's been time well spent. Thanks to Brad & Kat for the plans and this wonderful site.

It's been nice being on the building side instead of reading others adventures, which I have I enjoyed for several years.
Cashew

EmteeOh
08-18-2013, 09:50 AM
That looks like an intense amount of spatter! I don't get that much when I'm MIG welding. Have you tried fiddling with voltage/wire-feed-speed to clean that up a bit?
http://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/mig_handbook.pdf

Cashew
08-18-2013, 10:07 AM
It does spatter a lot, had yet to grind it off. New roll of wire seems to spatter more than last one. Will try a different brand wire when this one is done. I have fiddled with the speed, I know I bumped it yesterday, and noticed after some parts were welded. Thanks for the link.

imamedik
08-18-2013, 10:12 AM
.....It's also closer to the boom and will have to work on chain clearance for my smallest ring.

Cashew, don't know if this will help with the clearance issue but look at your spindle. Generally one side is longer than the other, the longer side is the side that the chain rings goes on.

In this picture you can see that the bottom spindle is equal on both sides, but the top two spindles are a 1/2 cm longer on the right

http://s20.postimg.org/5umtdw16x/IMG_0179.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/5umtdw16x/)

Ibedayank
08-18-2013, 03:19 PM
Cashew what welder are you using? Have you tried to weld 2 1/2 chunks togather
then cut them apart and see how good your welds are? 1/2 is WELL beyond the
capability of a sub 140amp mig machine you just can't get the metal hot enough
so your weld just sits on the top and does not mix with the base metal. Otherwise known as lack of penatration.
If properly weld the weld will not break but metal around the weld will as the welding wire/ sticks are stronger
wire/sticks 60,000kpi hotrolled mild steel 40,000 kpi break strength

Cashew
08-18-2013, 05:14 PM
Immedik I do have the spindle in correct with the longer side on the chain ring. However the small ring when on the donor bike sits flush or almost under the bottom bracket. My first donor the rings were farther away, but not unable to combine the two sets of parts. I welded the nuts and and they are now out of the way. I cut out a spacer and it fits the spindle and 1/8 looks like enough clearance. Seat is done and ready to run chain line.

Ibedayank, I'm using the HF Mig welder. I have not tried to weld 2, 1/2" pieces together. Might give it a shot to see how my penetration is. This whole build has been a learning experience and I wouldn't be surprised if a weld does fail. I'm hoping to discover it while riding slow and abusing the ride, long before any high speed long distance riding. I appreciate all the comments.
Family commitments tonight will make riding it today a no go, work and meetings will get in the way till mid week.
Cashew

MrIdaho
08-18-2013, 06:14 PM
A well known trick to welding metal too thick for said welder machine is to grind the ends of the metal to make it thinner (taper at say a 45 degree) at the face butting against the other metal. This will work to a point Not for say a certified weld or structural weld on a skyscraper but for the thin material we are using it works just fine.

Cashew
08-22-2013, 08:15 PM
It is now rideable, went on it's first official ride today. Put the chain on a higher gear than I expected, level ground it was fine, incline on the lawn wasn't so pretty.

http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag41/fishernuts/Rideable_zpsa04971cd.jpg (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/fishernuts/media/Rideable_zpsa04971cd.jpg.html)

I thought last night it would have been ready, but I didn't like how little space I had for the rear wheel. So hacked off the dropouts and cut a new pair and welded them on last night. Added most of the parts back on to get ready for today. Hadn't seen the new reflective rim tape had come in, so this morning took the brakes off and wheels off to install the tape. It really dressed up the chrome rear wheel, did all 3 wheels both sides. The red rims make the tape look almost orange,my boys gave it a thumbs up.

I need to move the boom back, I had to stretch to reach the pedals. Most likely chain will get shortened a bit as well. Seat felt really good, with just the cardboard packing. UPS dropped off the seat padding, so will get that assembled this weekend. The red pad on the aluminum diamond plate is going to be great.

I had the bent grin all the way, and still grinning a bit.

Cashew
08-26-2013, 07:10 PM
Small update, moved the boom back further and several more chain links removed. I'm clipping in much easier now, folded the seat pad and it's going to work out. Cabled one brake, second brake will need some adjusting to fit closer to the rotor. Ran cable for rear derailleur, which also needs adjusting. Front Derailleur cable not yet cut. Had to take it for a spin, first run with new helmet and mirror. Spent time trying to get mirror adjusted. Took a longer trip and on the return trip thought I'd see what kind of speed I had. Not sure how fast, but it felt fast and after flying up the drive into the garage, was quite a sight. I gotta find room to mount an oxygen tank, just kidding, but if I had one I'd be using it. :1eye:

Nothing fell off and no cracked welds, so I'd say it's going to hold just fine. Lots to finish, hoping to get some real ride time before winter comes.
Cashew

Cashew
09-13-2013, 11:11 PM
Life got in the way for a bit. Tried to put my twist shifters on and just wasn't happy with it. New friction non index shifters came, welded on guides this evening and rear shifter was a breeze. Didn't hook up the front shifter yet.

Took the trike for it's longest spin around the neighborhood. I gotta learn to pace myself, had to crank it and see how fast. Course was panting on the trip home, but got back under my own power and didn't have to call 911 or get oxygen. If I had it, I would have used it though. :) If all goes well can do a few final welds to seal the boom and add flag bracket, to slow me down. Oh and add a battery box with a heavy battery for the lights, also to anchor the trike down so it doesn't float away. Got cold last night, tonight frost warning, so not looking for winter. Hoping can get some extended riding in, before stripping it for paint, and even get a few rides in before winter. Been watching trike videos online, anxious to be done. Have enjoyed the build, but it's winding down. I feel like I know what I'm doing now.
Cashew

Cashew
05-08-2014, 12:50 PM
I can't believe it's been almost a year since an update. Got a PM from someone semi local, thanks for the note. :taz: Trike is not yet complete, delays due to weather and health. But I'm back up an running, feeling pretty darn good. I left the trike on the workbench during the winter, I figured if it came inside and placed in the basement I could have ridden it for exercise on a roller. But pneumonia took a few months away from me.

I need to cut one front wheel off, the garage wasn't quite level and it shows on the one side. So will whack it off, weld it back on, and get some more grinder time in. Can't get enough grinder.:jester: After riding it as is, I think the seat lays back to far for me. Was causing a neck issue and shall we say making me breathless. So seat will get rebent and new bracket made. Once It's in rider shape, will weld on a battery box that will hold a battery for lights, horn and small storage area for tubes, first aid and maybe some jerky treats. :scooter:

Then I get to strip it down, primer and paint are setting here, I'll admit I bought 2 different colors, won't know which one gets sprayed on it till it happens. Then wire up lights, horn, custom decals that I had made for it. Reflectors and I think that's it.

I got a fishing boat in the way right now, needs some work before the trike takes it place in glory in the middle of the garage, not stuffed in corner.

Will update when I got something to show.

Cashew

Cashew
11-25-2014, 03:05 PM
So 6 months later I have an update. Trike is rideable, but the slightly crooked wheel is bugging me, so before I call it all done It'll get whacked off and done right. Found out that I had a hernia and that was causing me issues trying to ride and also work on the trike. Bending was getting tough. Waited to have a new belly button installed after Summer camp, between the prep time and recovery, I lost most of my summer. Sucks, but feel a whole lot better.

I managed to get the boat out of the way, zombie-fied and tore it down and built new seating for two and now has retractable wheels for hauling the 11ft rowboat down the river bank. Need to tie the new seats into the boat, paint and add accessories to "My Lil Dinghy." Managed to repaint and sell off a pedal boat that I had picked up dirt cheap, fixed a crack, new paint and doubled my money. Sad to say never got it in the water myself.

Winter is here, so the Trike remains covered up till spring. Planing to <insert gasp> buy a bike to ride during the winter indoors on a trainer or roller to get in better shape for the spring. Working on renovating the basement, and putting all the exercise/torture equipment in one spot. FYI: picked up a 30 Ft Battle rope, and it's a lot of fun and kicking my butt like it should.
Hope everyone has a Happy Turkey day.
Cashew