View Full Version : Started my Spirit build this weekend...

07-27-2013, 11:27 PM
Bought some steel this past week. I was surprised how cheap it was. $15 for a 12' piece of 1 1/2" square 16 ga tubing. Borrowed a welder and broke out the angle grinder. I got the rear triangle made and also cut out the rear dropouts today. I will admit I need more practicing with my welding, but hopefully it will hold up. Now I am looking for a donor bike. Got emails out on a few on craigslist, hope to pick up one tomorrow.

07-28-2013, 01:44 AM
Good luck with your build. As easy as it is to build, it handles well and is easy to transport.

07-29-2013, 07:49 AM
Got 2 donor bikes yesterday. One is a decent MTB with a lot of use, the other is a cheap 24" MTB that looks like new. Got them torn down and began removing the bb shells and head tubes. When the plans said that there are 2 sizes of head tubes and only the smaller one would work, I didn't put it together that a 1 1/8" fork head tube was going to be too big. The smaller MTB has a 1" fork so I should be ok. The 26" bike has decent components and I hope that I can use the rear wheel off of it. It has a freewheel hub so 13 is the smallest cog and the bearings are loose, but I hope I can clean them up, lube them, and adjust them back to a usable state. The gear-inches are going to be a little on the low side compared to the Bike E I have been riding but it is a cheap place to start. I can swap in a road triple crank and a cassette rear with an 11 tooth cog once I ride a little and figure out what I really want.

08-01-2013, 10:37 PM
It turned out that one of the cones in my donor rear wheel was shot, but I found another at a local bike shop for $3. The rear hub has been rebuilt, the wheel trued, and the dropouts have been tack welded in place. Everything looks good so far. I purchased a 20" MTB fork off of ebay for $20 shipped and it arrived today. It is a perfect match for my donor headset. I also ordered a 20" wheel. It has a single wall aluminum rim, but for $26 shipped it seemed like a bargain. I guess the main boom, seat, and bottom bracket are next!

08-04-2013, 08:21 AM
Made some more progress Friday. I got the rear dropouts finished up and welded on and I got the main boom on. I was very pleased that once everything looked straight the boom was at a right angle to the short cross piece for the rear forks. My welding is starting to improve too and I actually trust the last welds! I propped the frame up and stood on it at the boom/rear fork joint and it didn't snap so I think I am ok.

Yesterday I decided that I have been neglecting riding my Bike E so I took a short ride. It was nice to get out again even though the wind was tough and the corn has been cut where I live so now there is no wind block. I need the Spirit soon to provide me a more aerodynamic platform! After the ride I worked on the bottom bracket mount and the seat tube. The seat tube is now on and the bottom bracket shell clamp pieces are ready to be welded into place.

One question for those viewing this. How do you mount the rear deraileur? I can cut the piece off of the donor bike, but it seems like it needs to be welded on in a particular relationship to the rear wheel. It is in the same plane as the rear dropout and the spacing seems important to the axle. Any suggestions?

08-04-2013, 08:32 AM
Nevermind on the rear deraileur question, I found my answer using the search :-)

08-04-2013, 10:54 PM
I did a little more work on the bike today. I got the bottom bracket welded up, cut the wood seat base and back, and cut and welded up the seat mounting tabs. Gotta track down some foam and fabric now to finish up the seat and hope that my front wheel comes in soon so I can mount the head tube.

08-10-2013, 04:52 PM
I ended up getting a camping pad from wal-mart for the seat foam. I got the more expensive one that has a waffle pattern and glued 2 pieces together to make a 1" pad. I decided not to cover it yet because I might want to add 1 more layer to it. I ended up welding the v-brake bosses to the bottom of the rear fork because the v-brakes would not clear the seat back tube if mounted on the top. I have now gotten the head tube welded on and the bike is really coming together. I hope to make my handlebar riser tomorrow and maybe get the chain together and weld the idler on. So far, with frame, fork, seat, cranks, and front and rear wheels/tires mounted it weighs 28 pounds. Not too bad. I know the handlebars will add a little weight and so will the chain, but the rest is pretty minimal.

08-15-2013, 08:39 AM
The handlebar riser is done, but I am not sure I am happy with it. It seems to be a little too high and maybe too close to the seat. It also has a lot of tiller action! Last night I started working on the chain. It turns out that the 2 chains I had were too short so I borrowed some chain from my Bike-E. Then I found out why you don't put the brake bosses on the bottom of the rear fork - the chain hits them! I cut the brake bosses off (the only welds on the whole bike I was willing to show to anyone) and got the chain on. I welded on the bolt for the idler (using a beefy metal one I got from Tractor Supply, uses a whopping 5/8" bolt!) and it seems that the chain is going to rub on the rear fork when in the 28 tooth cog. I put the idler about where everybody else does, but mine is a 3" pulley. I am not sure a 4" will clear the seat bottom, but I'll check. I may have to remake that as well. I did get the chain hose on and I took it for a run up and down the driveway. It was very dark and I did not have much choice in gears and I have not put a brake on it yet, but it seemed ok. After all of the setbacks last night it was good to end on a high note. I may see if a road caliper will fit my rear tire. If not, I'll just have to figure out why my v-brakes won't clear. If I move the bosses far enough back so that the cross part of the cable won't rub on the seat post, the pads will not reach the rims. None of the other pictures show people having this problem. I am not sure what I did wrong. Anyway, after all of the little issues last night I have decided that I need to get both brakes and the shifters working and take it for a few real rides before I tear it down and paint it. I have a feeling there is still more cutting and welding to do.

08-15-2013, 09:48 AM
making good progress there.
And the weight is quite good too. (I suspect my tourmaster is going to come in at a ton).
Have you got any pictures to show us? or are you going to do a grand unveiling when it is painted?

08-15-2013, 01:27 PM
Doh! Just realized they make short arm v-brakes! I have a pair on my Bike-E that I may "borrow" until I can get some ordered...

08-15-2013, 01:30 PM
HHJJ, I do have pictures, I just have not gone through the procedure to post them. Been too busy building!

08-15-2013, 03:04 PM
Ok, here are some pictures...
Rear forks with wheel mounted in the dropouts

Mock up, getting the head tube in the right spot

Rolling chassis!

First test ride, still need lots of adjustments...

08-15-2013, 03:54 PM
Nearly there.
It hasn't taken you long

08-15-2013, 05:24 PM
Very cool looking ride. Thanks for sharing.

08-15-2013, 05:25 PM
Nice!! Brings back a lot of memories from last year for me. And the handlebar gooseneck setup is excellent; I'd like to do that in 2014 when I retool my own Spirit SWB build.

08-15-2013, 10:33 PM
Thanks for the comments. It has been a lot of fun to build. About that gooseneck... I was struggling to find tubing that I wanted to use. Everything seemed either too small or very heavy. I ended up using the top tube from one of the donor bikes (24" kids MTB). I found some cruiser bars on ebay pretty cheap and they should be here this weekend. Looking forward to getting it on the road!

08-16-2013, 10:54 PM
Slapped on a front brake, temporarily hooked up a rear shifter (using 4 sections of housing and it works great...) and took her down the road this evening. It felt a little squirrely at first but I settled in. I have long legs and my knees want to hit the handlebars. I put on some granny bars but I hit right at the horizontal section near the center of the bars. I cut a little out of the front of the gooseneck down toward the bottom and bent the gooseneck up some, but I still think I will hit my knees. The bars moved forward about 1 1/2" with this move, and the bars moved up a little too. I'm not sure how to solve this one. After looking at pictures online, it seems that most swb recumbents put the bars behind the knees. The seat seems a lot closer to the head tube than my bike though. I can pull the bars back, but that will bring them closer and they feel the right distance now. I guess I will try that tomorrow and see what happens. Anyway, I am thrilled that I am getting her on the road! If all goes well, I will do a short 5 mile loop around my house tomorrow to make sure I have the bars where I want them. Then I can start making up the cables and get the rear brake bosses welded on (as soon as I get my short v-brakes).

08-16-2013, 10:57 PM
Very nice build, great photo's. That will be a gas to ride.

08-17-2013, 12:30 AM
Nice clean build.


08-17-2013, 03:12 AM
Hi there

I had a Speed Ross recumbent that is about the same dimensions as the Spirit [ look it up in Google images ]

The solution to the handle bar problem was to have a bend in the stem about 2/3 rds of the way up it that tipped the bars forward so they were in front of the knees , then the ends of the bars swept back so they were behind the knees , this set up was very comfortable and allowed bar end shifters which meant you did not have to move your hands much to change gear.

I think rotary shifters would also work with that configuration.

A quick way to try this with your current configuration is to bolt some straight MTB bull horns onto the end of your existing bars [ they may need extending with a bit of tubing till they fall easily to hand ] they want to be pointing down around 45' ish.

regards Paul

08-17-2013, 04:31 AM
Enjoy your ride.

08-17-2013, 07:50 AM
Nice build but the "tiller steering?" Not a fan of this method of steering. On a up right bike the rider is above the headset not below or even with it.
As for the handle bar knee issue, why not just put a 45 dogleg in front of the headset thus lowering the crank-set. wouldn't need to be too offset, just enough so it doesn't hit the front wheel. This will also straighten out the chain line if it needs or has an idler pulley on it now.

Radical Brad
08-17-2013, 09:48 AM
Congrats on the test ride, looking good!


08-17-2013, 06:08 PM
Did some tweaking today on the gooseneck and got it all setup now. I ended up bending it forward some more and got the knee clearance I needed. The granny bars are very comfortable too. I took it out on a 5 mile ride, still using only the rear 7 gears and the middle chainring. I really like having a solid seat mount for climbing. The Bike-E seat will slide backwards if you push too hard on the pedals. This thing climbs nicely and it really does well in a headwind. It is very stable now that I am used to it. I caught myself riding one handed without even thinking about it. I had some knocking from the rear end that I think is the hub bearings. They seemed a little loose so I tightened them up some. Hopefully that will take care of it. I got the front derailleur mounted and welded a brake noodle on for a cable stop. It works, but it isn't pretty. Anyway, I have the front shifting cobbled together now so I may take another ride tomorrow if time permits. Just waiting for the rear brakes and I'll be ready to paint it and get it on the road for good. Here is a picture of where it is today.


08-18-2013, 03:10 AM
Hi there

That looks great , and getting used to it won't take long.

I have a number of Brads plans and a couple [ like this one ] look as though if the seat was just raised up by another section of frame tubing you could eliminate the drive side chain pulley altogether ?

I was thinking cut two short pieces with 45' ends and weld them on top of and across the frame to replace the flat seat brackets ? then put a length of chain tube that can float i.e. hanging on a cable tie to allow some up and down movement to follow the chain it would get rid of some of the noise and maintenance problems the pulley causes ?

regards Paul

08-18-2013, 12:41 PM
Just a bit of a warning on raising the seat- you might end up raising the COG and make your bike unridable. Just a thought and I am not saying it will, just a possibility.

08-20-2013, 09:32 PM
I did final cable runs on all but the rear brake and was going to weld on the rear brake bosses this evening but I decided to take a test ride instead. I am sure glad I did. The bike seemed heavy and slow tonight. Granted the wind was strong and I have not ridden much in a couple of weeks, but my speeds were especially slow. At my turn around point I stopped, rotated the bike 180 degrees, and tried to get started again. I could not make the bike go! I could hear something dragging, but I could not tell what. I got off the bike and all of the wheels rolled smoothly. No front brake drag (and no rear brake at all yet), the chainline was smooth and quiet, yet I still could not pedal hard enough to get the bike going. It turns out the tubing that braces the back of the seat was flexing enough to rub the rear tire! I have only about 1/2" of clearance to start with, just like a fine Italian road bike, but no clearance is not good. I rode the rest of the way home trying not to lean back on the seat. The bike certainly felt more lively after that. I will probably do a combination of moving it forward a little and making it a little more upright. I'm sure re-welding it is a good idea too. I had a lot of trouble with that piece. Anyway, glad I found it before I painted the bike. Everything else was awesome, and it was good to have the front shifter. I really do need a road triple though. Those MTB chainrings will not cut it. I was spinning out at 20 mph.

08-20-2013, 11:18 PM
....that's a fine looking machine you're building there - inspires me to have a go at making one too :thinking:. With your seat rubbing issue, would it be possible to triangulate the rear section, ie add a couple of seat stays down to the rear fork - would certainly stiffen that whole area up. Just an idea, but maybe not the look you were after......

08-21-2013, 08:00 AM
Thanks FrankCrank. It would be possible to triangulate that rear section of the seat. I will probably make a mesh seat at some point for this bike so I really just want to get this seat rideable. It IS comfortable for me but here in Texas a mesh seat would be really nice. Of course winter is coming so in another 4 months it will be cool enough to not be a big deal ;). I'm gonna mess with it later in the week. I hope by the end of the weekend it is painted and ready for regular riding.

This bike is a tribute to the quality of the plans. I have done lots of mechanical work on cars and assembled many bikes, but I have never made anything from scratch out of steel. The plans and this web site make it easy to get everything aligned properly without fancy tools. I probably should have practiced more on my welding before I started, but my next build will be better. I was torn between building this and buying a used Bacchetta. I'm glad I went this route. I can probably build the High Roller too and still be at about 1/2 the cost of a used Bacchetta. Anybody else out there wondering if they can do it, YES YOU CAN! Just jump in and get started!

08-24-2013, 08:33 AM
I found the problem with my seat tube flexing. It was not my welds afterall, but was was the 1 1/2" square tubing bending. Since the 1" seat tubing is narrower than the 1 1/2" main boom/rear fork, the seat tube was causing the top surface of the 1 1/2" tubing to bend. I welded a piece of 3/16" bar stock to the top at the boom/rear fork joint, cut 3/16" off of my seat tube, and welded it all back together. I don't think this will be a problem again. I finished up all of the other welding and painted it. Maybe later today I will get it assembled and hopefully get it on the road!

08-25-2013, 06:43 PM
Build is complete, pics are in the gallery! I took a short ride yesterday and found that the seat was a little firm for the rough roads that I have here in the country. I guess finally getting the seat post solidly mounted took the shock absorption out of it. I will now start looking at making a mesh seat. I think that is my best option out here. I'm still undecided on the handle bars, but one thing at a time.

Thanks for all of the support, it has been a fun build. Now I need to ride a while before I start my Highroller :)

08-25-2013, 10:42 PM
I saw this thread yesterday and just had to comment on the added 3/18 plate. IMO it would be stronger if the plate was on the ubderside of the joint as the rear section is pushing up on the joint. on top would maybe be as strong but on the bottom is better. It holds the weld together better.

08-25-2013, 10:52 PM
Maybe, but my issue was that the top of the 1 1/2" tubing was bending. It was not the boom to rear triangle joint. Where the front of the seat tube was welded the top surface of the boom was bending up and at the rear of the seat tube the triangle crossbar top was bending down. I tried to get a picture of it but it did not show the bends. Pushing back on the seat tube clearly showed the issue. All I needed to do was strengthen the top surface where the seat tube is welded.

08-25-2013, 10:53 PM
I saw this thread yesterday and just had to comment on the added 3/18 plate. IMO it would be stronger if the plate was on the ubderside of the joint as the rear section is pushing up on the joint. on top would maybe be as strong but on the bottom is better. It holds the weld together better.

He was having a wheel rub problem with the seat post rubbing on back wheel. So he placed it exactly where he needed it without having to resort to triangulation of the seat post to the rear fork. An under side plate would not have stop the flex he was experiencing.

08-26-2013, 01:19 PM
Hi there

If you look at Atom's plans for the AtomBlaster here :- http://archive.org/search.php?query=edgar%20k.%20atkins he shows how to build a seat that is a sort of amalgam of Brads seat and a mesh seat.

This has the advantage of needing less round tubing and so fewer bends , those used could be cut as mitres and welded together so meaning it could be built with having to bend any tubes.

Also the rear is hinged so it is easy to alter the seat back angle.

regards Paul

08-27-2013, 12:24 PM
I'll have to consider that seat. Very similar to the one on my Bike E except the backrest is adjustable.

09-06-2013, 05:42 PM
Well, it has been an interesting week or so... I have still been fighting with the rear hub loosening up on my rides, but I think I finally solved that. I was adjusting the left side cone/locknut and it was the right side that kept loosening! Now both sides are tight and also have loctite on them. Shouldn't have that issue anymore. I was going to sneak in a ride Monday before I had to head off to work. I got about 5 miles from home and snap! the welds on the seat tube broke. I had to call my wife to come get me. Tuesday I took it all apart and there was no penetration on those welds. I have had a lot of trouble burning through the 1" tubing so I had been TOO cautious. I removed the paint from the area, cleaned up the previous welds, and welded it on one more time. This time things looked better when I finished. I hit it with some more paint, put it all back together, and Wednesday got home a little early so I could ride. Unfortunately it was raining lightly at the house and there was a lot of thunder. I decided that discretion was the better part of valor and stayed home. Of course, the storm went south of us and we did not get any real rain. Thursday evening was nice out so I headed out on the road. I reached the 5 mile spot where I broke down Monday and it started raining. I turned and quickly headed back towards the house only to see that 50 yards up the road it was not raining and was actually sunny! I kept going on my ride, only to get caught up in a storm that popped up very quickly. Lots of lightening, strong winds, and heavy rain. I made it home, but only got 12 miles in. During those 12 miles though the bike felt great. I am getting used to it now, the seat recline is better than ever, the bar position is comfortable, and until the rain hit I was making surprisingly decent speed.

Hopefully I'll be able to get out today and do my full 16.5 mile evening route. Of course, with the drought here in central Texas, if I can make it rain by getting out and riding my bike, that is ok with me too. Maybe that is just another feature of an Atomic Zombie bike!

09-07-2013, 05:58 AM
That is a very nice bike!
Hours of fun.
Building fun, then riding fun that goes on and on.

Great Job!



09-07-2013, 09:03 AM
If you can make it rain by riding, we'll bid your services to come up to East Texas and ride. So dry here. Our pine trees are firing up. Last year lost some 50+ year old oaks. Another week of 100 degree days forecast.
Nice to see you have made it along so well with your new bike. Miles and miles of smiles coming up.

10-07-2013, 01:16 PM
Well, I finally put a new seat on the Spirit. I found the stock seat so uncomfortable that one leg or the other would go to sleep within about 12 miles. I was about ready to just take it apart and build something else, but I decided to make a Barnett-Williams seat from the ADC site. I laced the phifertex on like TexasTuff did instead of sewing it on and it turned out GREAT! I have been adjusting and found that I sit much further back on this seat so I moved the cranks back about 1 1/2". This opened the cockpit up some. I have also been playing with the tilt angle and this bike has gone from disappointing to awesome! When I go out riding, I don't want to stop! I made the rear struts from the seat stays off of a Roadmaster MTB slid inside of some aluminum tubing from the hardware store. The clamps are just hose clamps. I welded tabs on the rear of the Spirit frame for mouting the struts. For the cover I just folded the phifertex over 2", then doubled that and sewed it, creating a 1" double thickness pocket. I put some leftover brake cable housing in the pocket, burned some holes, and laced it up. I was undecided how close together the lacing holes should be. They are 1 1/2" apart in the bottom of the seat and 2" apart up the back. I realized that they are probably much closer together than they need to be so I skipped every other hole when lacing the seat back. I finished the rope off with a Nite-ize figure 9. It makes it easy to retighten the seat as needed. Here are some pictures...





10-07-2013, 02:34 PM
Nice looking bike and seat. Bending both sides of the seat rails can be problematic, but you've done a very nice job. Nothing matches the comfort of a mesh seat. I like your steering setup also. Really looks neat.
Now starts the miles of smiles.

10-08-2013, 09:39 AM
Yes, getting the seat rails to match took a little time, but the 1/2" emt wasn't too hard to bend. I borrowed a bender from a neighbor, but all he had was a 3/4" bender so my radii are larger than I would like, creating a less than optimal seat bucket. No real flat area in it, but it is working out ok. The 3/4" was much harder to bend than I expected. I ended up with an arc across the back, but it doesn't matter. Lacing the seat like you did is a great idea. Much easier than trying to sew it on and I was thinking of lacing with 2 ropes, one for the seat bottom and one for the back. Then I could put different tensions in different areas. The lumbar support on that seat is awesome too.

I'm still not 100% thrilled with the handlebars. They are very comfortable but my knees just barely clear them, and sometimes touch. My legs also want to brush the water bottle. I have the material to make tweener bars, but the setup I have right now just isn't bad enough for me to want to mess with it. Now that I have the seat bottom brace, I may put water bottle cages beneath the seat and then remove the one on the gooseneck. Just thinking...

The $10 wal-mart fanny pack makes a nice bag for tubes and tools and extra water bottles too. Those bottle pockets are insulated :-).

10-08-2013, 10:07 AM
Lovely job!
Love the colour.
Could just get on and have a go on it.

10-08-2013, 10:12 AM
That is one really sweet looking ride you have there Sir!!

Loads of smiles with every mile I bet.



10-08-2013, 10:21 AM
I agree with everyone else. That is one sweet looking ride. The mesh seat really topped it off. Thanks for sharing and have fun on that new bike.

10-08-2013, 01:25 PM
Thanks y'all! I just got in from a nice 30 mile ride. My "recumbent legs" are starting to get better. Still not fast but my climbing is improving!

10-14-2013, 10:03 PM
Nicely detailed, icdearman. The seat really added a lot to the look (and comfort I'm sure) It could certainly be mistaken for a production bike now. I like your sliding mount for the seat bottom, similar to the sliding BB mounts Brad uses.

10-15-2013, 09:06 AM
I can't take credit for the sliding seat mount. Others here have done that same kind of thing on both mesh and bent plywood seats. Pictures of SirJoey's Nexus 6 made it very clear how to do this type of mount. I also got the idea from his pictures for creating a riser for the tweener bars. The gooseneck I have now is built on a 1" quill stem. Just take a 1" quill stem extender ($10 off of eBay) and insert it into the steerer tube of your fork. Slide the seat tube from a cheap MTB upside down OVER the riser (cheap MTBs use smaller seat tubes than better bikes) and clamp it using the seat clamp. Then you can then either put a 1 1/8" quill stem inside the other end of the seat tube or use a clamp on style stem (for a threadless headset). It should be very neat and does not require any welds. You might could even put a bend in the riser using a conduit bender, but I have not tried that. It would give lots of adjustment since you can adjust how much of the extender is inside the fork steerer, then you can adjust how far you slide the seat tube over the extender, then you can adjust the height of the upper stem. I have a feeling though that it will be heavier than the welded up gooseneck I have right now. Anyway, just thinking...

10-15-2013, 09:28 AM
Ah yes - Joey was way out front with that Nexus in many ways :)

10-15-2013, 09:35 AM
Over time you may find that the Phifertex may tend to slip down the rails from the top. You may want to loosen you laces and pull the Phifertex up and fold it over the rails and sew across the seat. Even with that I'm having problems with the seat rail eating through the Phifertex. Something needs to be done to round over or smooth the edges of top of the rails to reduce the sharp edges from eating through the material. I don't have a solution yet, just making you aware of what is happening to mine.

EDIT: Maybe some black material over the top edge of the rail before folding the Phifertex over the rails for a padding. Maybe?

10-15-2013, 09:56 AM
Texas - its a little more difficult to implement, but I always liked the way John Lewis bent his rails over at the top and then welded them together on his Bacchetta Euromesh seat clone. I have the same problem with the Barnet Williams type seat on my DeltaWolf. I suppose one could install a few snaps in the mesh side to hold it up at the top.

10-15-2013, 10:37 AM
TT- I suspect the problem with the cutting is not so much sharp edges as it is the material stretching each time you sit in it. As with all cloth or cloth like material it wears out from the stretching action. The more you use it the faster it wears out- my conclusion comes from the thought that it is very easy to get a replacement seat covering for the sunx3, terratrike, and the greenspeed. I suspect they wear out a lot to be so easily available. Just a thought.

10-16-2013, 09:17 AM
I was wondering about folding the material over at the top of the seat. I guess my rails are a little long because there was no material left at the top after lacing. I think that a plug in the top of the rails will help with the sharp edges cutting the mesh. Also, I am already experiencing the problem with the mesh sliding down. I was thinking of adding lacing to the rear crossbar to help pull it up.

10-16-2013, 09:40 AM
You could also drill a small hole near the tops of the rails and put a grommet in the seat mesh. Then you run a wire through the hole and the grommet to keep the mesh from sliding down.

10-16-2013, 10:23 AM
I'm sure a plug in the top would help and I'll be there is a plug made to fit 1/2" conduit. I'll do something with mine before I put new mesh on it. Another bit of advise, don't sit in the seat with a screw driver in your hip pocket.

10-16-2013, 04:22 PM
I used bar end plugs on mine but I think I made it out of 3/4".

http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4125/5090847599_e920b93be0_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/31561226@N03/5090847599/)

Yes I do have to play with the mesh to get it into position occasionally. My next seat will be out of 1/2", ADC says that is strong enough and I believe him. Also the 3/4" was a pain to bend.

10-16-2013, 06:02 PM
I used bar end plugs on mine but I think I made it out of 3/4".

Yes I do have to play with the mesh to get it into position occasionally. My next seat will be out of 1/2", ADC says that is strong enough and I believe him. Also the 3/4" was a pain to bend.

Unfortunately I weigh close to 200# now (too much eating and not enough riding). I make mine from 1/2" EMT and never had any problems.

10-16-2013, 07:19 PM
Unfortunately I weigh close to 200# now (too much eating and not enough riding). I make mine from 1/2" EMT and never had any problems.

I'm 200 lbs also and my side rails are 1/2" and the cross rails are 3/4" Recently I had a weld break on the seat and had to un-lace the mesh and re-weld. I don't think it was because of the EMT size, just a bad weld. No big deal.

10-17-2013, 09:02 AM
I found some 5/8" nylon caps at the hardware store that are made to slip over chair legs. It is a tight fit, but I was able to slide them over the ends of the 1/2" conduit. That should help.