5/8in, Sealed, Trike Bearings

[Mike]

Does anyone have a cheaper (less expensive) source for these bearings? I need about a dozen.

http://allsurplus.net/BikeParts/01-6778728.jpg

http://www.bikepartsusa.com/bikeparts/category.cgi?item=01-6778728

Thanks,

Mike

[TheKid]

Some of the guys buy them at True Value or Ace Hardware for a lot less. I've used these in place of the flanged bearings. The snap ring acts as the flange:

http://www.thebigbearingstore.com/servlet/the-548/499502H%2C-99502H-dsh-NR%2C-202FFBL-Special/Detail

I've also seen the flange bearings elsewhere on the Net, but I'm not sure where. I'll post the links when I find them.

[AtomicZombie]

What cool machine are you building that has 12 bearings?

Brad

[Mike]

TheKid - Thanks for the link, I'll look locally but the small hardware stores are getting 'rare'. A lot of them closing due to the 'Big Box Brain Washing Stores - HomeDepot'

Brad - Just playing right now, I'm going to attempt to build a Trike rear end like Richie Rich built: http://forum.atomiczombie.com/showthread.php?t=266 (http://forum.atomiczombie.com/showthread.php?t=266)

Need to work on my welding skills, right now they are crap, my only savior is my grinder, (one minute of welding and 20 minutes clean up with the grinder). The wire in my HF mig is 2+ years old, don't know if it goes 'bad' but I'm going to put a new spool on and see if that improves things. I don't remember having this much trouble making decent welds with this mig welder.

[TheKid]

Yeah, the wire becomes oxidized. A good tip has been posted here a few times - Fold a small piece of scotch brite pad over the wire just after it leaves the spool, and secure it with a spring loaded clothespin. That will remove the oxidation. Running oxidized wire isn't good for the liner in the torch.

[Mike]

Another question about 5/8” Trike bearings, did not start a new thread since I believe this is still on topic.

What is the best way to ‘keep’ the bearings seated in the 1 ¼” EMT?

I'm building a trike rear end like Richie Rich built: http://forum.atomiczombie.com/showthread.php?t=266 (http://forum.atomiczombie.com/showthread.php?t=266), However I am modeling it against my worksman trike found here:

http://bp3.blogger.com/_tA54Ebd2ceE/SHpNYf7ytWI/AAAAAAAAGrw/2-9zwfwEc0Y/s1600-h/Jul+13+2008+004.JPG (http://bp3.blogger.com/_tA54Ebd2ceE/SHpNYf7ytWI/AAAAAAAAGrw/2-9zwfwEc0Y/s1600-h/Jul+13+2008+004.JPG)

It has a solid rear axle that the chain drives the right wheel and the left wheel just rolls on the shaft. I concerned about the bearings in the middle section coming out. Don’t want to tack weld them so I was thinking of either:

1. Use a shaft collar next to the bearing to keep it in the 1 ¼” EMT.
2. Slightly ‘out of round’ the 1 ¼” EMT, so it will fit tight, but still be removable.
3. Use a pipe cutter with a dull cutting wheel to make a grove on the outside of the 1 ¼” EMT. This might slightly reduce the I.D. of the EMT, allowing the bearings to be press fit in.
4. Lay down a little weld material, on the I.D. of the EMT, then grind to a snug fit.

What would you suggest?

Thanks for the Help!

Mike

[TheKid]

Those bearings fit tight in 1 1/4" EMT. I usually have to ream the tube a bit, and file the seam. As a precaution, the shaft collars work well. They're cheap insurance.

[Mike]

The bearings fit almost snug in the 1 ¼” EMT that I got from Home Depot today, but you can still pull them out with your fingers. Maybe that will be ‘ok’ once everything is put together as a ‘unit’, maybe I’m worrying over nothing!

In the center section I’ll need to have room for the Band Brake, #25 sprocket & free wheel (750 watt drive motor) and then the pedal drive free wheel. So adding shaft collars might be a ‘trick’.

O.T.: Has EMT just recently gone up? The 1 ¼” was $18.00 for a 10’ stick. If I’m not mistaken, I bought a 10’ stick of 1 ½” a few weeks ago for under $10.00.

[TheKid]

Wow. The last time I bought 1 1/4" EMT was last year for $5 and change. I can understand the price of diesel going up $3 a gallon pushing prices higher, but on a per item basis, considering the amount of material an 18 wheeler can carry, it doesn't add up. I think there's some gouging going on.
If your bearings are that loose, the collars will handle holding them in place, as will as a spacer between the freewheel adapter and and the bearing, and using that to hold the bearing in place. Miami Sun trikes had the same problem. There were complaints that the center bearings were coming out of the tubes. I think they sell a retainer to solve the problem, but shaft collars are easier to come by.

[AtomicZombie]

Around here, EMT is 2-3x as much as steel tubing if you purchase tubing as a 20 foot length.

This is why my first choice is usually 1.5 inch square tubing. Stonger, cheaper than EMT, and easier to weld than round tubing.

Brad

[Mike]

OK, Discovered this by accident! Piddling out in the garage.


Turns out that the Harbor Freight Wheels Item #30900 use similar bearings as the Worksman Cycles (Port-O-Trike). The HF wheels have two of these bearings. These wheels or similar wheels with different tires, are usually on sale or on 'coupon' every month for about $4.99.


So If you can find something to do with the wheel hub, inter tube, and tire (sell on eBay), it might be a cheaper alternative than the bearings sold by BikePartsUSA. Still not as cheap as the link TheKid posted, but if you can somehow sell the remainder of the wheel or find a use for it, might be a usable source. However unless you have a Harbor Freight store close to you it might not really be that great of a deal if you have to add shipping charges.


I'll get the camera out later and shoot some pictures of the bearings I've acquired from different sources.

[trikeman]

Not all bearings are high speed bearings. The ones they put on those Northern Tool buggy wheels for example will not stand up to being used (or pulled behind) a bicycle for long.

[Mike]

Thanks for the info, did not know that. :o


Is there a way to tell?


I'm not seeing a whole lot of difference between the ones from the Worksman cycle and the ones I just pulled from the HF wheel. I'll post some pictures, later tonight, of what I have.

Posted Picture..........

http://www.allsurplus.net/scooter/Bearing.JPG

[AtomicZombie]

Both look like cheap low speed pressed bearings to me. In a quality set, there will be a rubber seal, the body will be thicker, and the center will seem a bit stiff from the seal.

Brad

[Mike]

Brad thanks for the evaluation!

So it seems that what I thought was a quality trike (worksman) is using sub standard parts.

From the picture of the bearing on BikePartsUSA it looks to be the same bearing.

What is you opinion of the bearing posted by TheKid? By far, the ones TheKid posted, they are the lowest cost.

Thanks for putting up with the newbie questions! Trying to soak up as much info as possible form the experts!

Mike

[TheKid]

The ag bearings with the snap ring are for lawnmowers. They are heavier than the so called sealed bearings for Worksman and Miami Sun trikes, (As well as others) which are actually shielded bearings. They're the same shielded bearings available at hardware stores for a buck or two.

[trikeman]

I know the wheels at Northern Tool often have a label on them saying something such as, "Not for high speed use." Other than that, and the fact that the low speed ones just usually don't look real well made and what Brad has said, I am not sure how you tell. I generally just try to stick to bearings that either say they are for high speed use or bearings made for bicycles or high speed machinery (such as the pillow block bearings we use on bikes like the DW).

Price is the other warning. If they are too cheap, I would check a bit further.

[TheKid]

I used the MS bearings in the steering tubes for the tadpole. I never used them on wheels. However, RR uses them on his trike conversion kit, so he could give you a better idea of their quality. I believe he bought them at Ace Hardware. If you email him, I'm sure he'll give you a report.

[Mike]

TheKid: I purchased the same bearings as used in the worksman cycle, from Elliot's Hardware - Plano Texas, same manufacturer stamping & size. I saw a bearing similar to the link you posted however they were over $15.00 each, did not have the snap ring or grove. I guess I need to order some from the link you provided to compare. Thanks for the link. That's the reason I stated earlier that I might need 12 bearings! Some to replace the ones on the original worksman trike and some to use on my other 'trike' project.

Trikeman: Yup your right, the Harbor Freight wheels I pulled these from state not for high speed, these are normally used on 'hand trucks' (dollies)

Again I appreciate the knowledge and advice offered here, Thanks to ALL!

Mike

[Richie Rich]

Re:Flanged Bearings....

They may look the same on the outside, but the quality is on the inside.
I was at the new Harbor Freight store that just opened this week near me and bought a pair of those same wheels. It took me a while to go through several of them in order to find 2 that had good bearings. Most of them seemed 'flat spotted' and not smooth.

Those wheels are made for carts and 2-wheelers and not for sustained service such as a bike.

For my 'Universal Trike Kit', I used heavy-duty flanged bearings from my local hardware which are made for this type of use. In fact, I have an old Columbia trike which was built in the 70's with those same type bearings. It's still rolling fine today.

As for retaining them in the EMT, go to my blog site and you'll see the collars I use. I snug the wheel against the outside bearing and slide a collar on the axle against the inside one. Nice and easy.

...Richie....

[Mike]

Thanks for the advice!

I will probably use the Freeway bearings ($4.48 at the local hardware store) or the ones that the TheKid posted.

BTY: the ones TheKid posted are over $20.00 EACH at the local hardware store, needless to say I will be ordering them from TheKid's link!

Thanks Again!

Mike

[TheKid]

I'm using them on a jackshaft on the Hauler. This thing is taking forever. I won't be getting a hub motor anytime soon, so I decided to make mods for dual rear wheel drive when needed, single for normal riding.
Those bearings are a lot heavier than the ones I got from Bikeparts USA. Thy're a bit wider too.