About to Start [Archive] - Atomic Zombie™ Extreme Machines Builder's Forum

John Lewis

07-31-2008, 09:35 AM

Hello All,
I'm new to the forum.

I have had the plans for about 3 weeks now. Managed to collect most of the materials and am about to start cutting metal. Had to buy minimum 8 metres of tubing So I'm set for a few builds. The bearings were horrendously expensive around $90 aud, likewise the wheels.

I've built 7 bents now and I've always brazed them as I'm hopeless with an arc welder because my hands shake too much. I'm hoping that brazing will be adequately strong . I'm particularly concerned about the hubs in regard to this so comments welcome.

Also the wheels I have are only single wall so I'm hoping they will be adequately strong. Guess if they taco I will just have to lace up another set.

Must say I'm really looking forward to the build and will probably make a start tomorrow.

regards,
Joh Lewis

Sparky

07-31-2008, 12:03 PM

cool!

welcome to the insanity.

:D

trikeman

07-31-2008, 12:44 PM

Welcome John. Yes, the bearings can be horrendously expensive if you don't get a deal on them. The best place to buy that I have seen here is

http://www.thebigbearingstore.com/servlet/the-Pillow-Block-Bearings-cln-Pressed-Steel/Categories

Also its best to buy the bearings with the light metal pressed shell, rather than the cast iron ones for most of the bikes, except I did notice Brad seems to be using the big heavy ones for the LodeRunner.

gbbwolf

07-31-2008, 12:59 PM

Depending on your UMMM girth I would recommned the cast pillow blocks if you are a BIG MAN 300+.

Price difference between the 2 is less than 1 buck.

Got my 4 cast pillow blocks and 2 rod ends from Thebigbearingstore.
Cost me 51.10 and that included shipping.

The bearings in the cast seem to be of a better quality also.

Mike got 4 pressed steel and I was not IMpressed.
I guess if you have brazed before might work out well and Look PRETTY, as far as the wheel goes, try it and see.

Don't forget the pictures LOL we love pictures.

Just my 2 cents,
Nelson

John Lewis

07-31-2008, 11:25 PM

Thanks for the welcome to the asylum guys.

I'm not so big so I'm going with the pressed metal pillow blocks. The bearings were the same for the cast blocks. Did see some nice light aluminum ones in the store. Very lightweight bearings though. I was told they sell them for golf buggies. 20mm just over 3/4 inch shaft.

Well I've no pictures yet of my new to be build but rest assured they will be forthcoming. To wet the appetite here are some of my other builds. Sorry they're not AZ designs. :mad:

The yellow and purple ones are my bikes. The others were built for friends. The blue trike in construction is for a guy who intends to ride it round Australia.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/TE-Clone.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Robs-Bike.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Dicks-bike.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Davids-Frame.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Bentech.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Painted.jpg

All the best. It's a nice day for a change so I'm off for a ride then cutting steel this pm.

John Lewis

TheKid

08-01-2008, 12:58 AM

Nice work. You'll fit righ in here. It won't be long before we'll be asking you questions.

SirJoey

08-01-2008, 12:43 PM

I'm not so big so I'm going with the pressed metal pillow blocks. The bearings were the same for the cast blocks.
To wet the appetite here are some of my other builds.

Yeah, the pressed steel ones are plenty sturdy enough for anyone, actually. Buying the cast iron ones is a waste of money, & just adds extra weight for nothing, in an HPV application. (JMO, FWIW)

Very nice work on the bents. I especially like the trike frame. Looks like it's gonna be a nice ride, but then I'm partial to trikes.

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

gbbwolf

08-02-2008, 03:51 AM

Yeah, the pressed steel ones are plenty sturdy enough for anyone, actually. Buying the cast iron ones is a waste of money, & just adds extra weight for nothing, in an HPV application. (JMO, FWIW)

Very nice work on the bents. I especially like the trike frame. Looks like it's gonna be a nice ride, but then I'm partial to trikes.

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

You cant tell joey is partial to trikes though, but he does like scaring little kids off their 2 wheelers.

From his backyard collection I think he is the boogey man.

J/k,
Nelson

John Lewis

08-02-2008, 05:48 AM

You cant tell joey is partial to trikes though, but he does like scaring little kids off their 2 wheelers.

From his backyard collection I think he is the boogey man.

J/k,
Nelson
Yes,

Went and had a stickybeak at his webpages. uite a collection. I'm quite intrigued by the Rhodes car.

My experience of little and not so little kids is the comment "Cool bike Mr."

SirJoey

08-02-2008, 07:07 AM

...From his backyard collection I think he is the boogey man.

MWAH HA HA... (evil laugh) :eek:

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

Richie Rich

08-03-2008, 12:16 AM

MWAH HA HA... (evil laugh) Joey works out of an abandoned school bus deep in the woods 50 miles from nowhere.

Come to think of it, no one has ever seen Joey and Sasquatch together at the same time...!!! :eek:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3104/2727336364_8dd9645543.jpg

.....

SirJoey

08-03-2008, 09:12 AM

Joey works out of an abandoned school bus deep in the woods 50 miles from nowhere.
Come to think of it, no one has ever seen Joey and Sasquatch together at the same time...!!!

Oh, no! The cat's outta the bag!
I've been compromised! Oh well... MWAH-HA-HA-HA!

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

locolarry

08-03-2008, 12:12 PM

Uh Ohhhh.....I just mailed Joey a package with my return address on it.............He'll get it in two days...where can I run to? Where can I hide???????????????:eek:

LocoscaredtodeathLarry

SirJoey

08-03-2008, 12:25 PM

Uh Ohhhh.....I just mailed Joey a package with my return address on it.............He'll get it in two days...where can I run to? Where can I hide???????????????:eek:
LocoscaredtodeathLarry

Not to worry. I've seldom been seen straying very far from the woods.
Just don't come here with your Jack Links jerky, & any plans of "messin' with Sasquatch"...

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

back2life

08-04-2008, 03:36 PM

I liked the builds you did. they look simular to AZ but just a bit off but thats ok if they work.

You will find that krew here at AZ are wonderful people and will be behind you all the way with tips and a bunching of joking around to.

I am starting my build also I even have to learn to weld. So i am starting from scratch. But I am not daunted I will make it happen. Besides if I dont get this damned bike built I will keep haveing those annoying building dreams HEHE

Hope tp here more from you in the future

TheKid

08-04-2008, 04:20 PM

The plans aren't etched in stone, and Brad encourages mods to suit your needs.

John Lewis

08-05-2008, 06:56 AM

Thanks for the comments back2life.

Hey Sir Joey. Guess I'm safe this side of the water.

Well to business.

I've made a start. First job was the hub disks. They came out ok but the spoke holes don't line up too perfect due to punching variations :mad:. Don't think its a problem. I've dreamed up a simple rotary table for next time. More on that later. I'll make it up and post pics.

Decided to use the arc welder on this build. Hope my welds will suffice.

cut out and welded up most of the frame.

Here are the pics.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Weld.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Hub_Disks.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/DW_Frame.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/BitsNPieces.jpg

Should finish the basic frame tomorrow then have to do the hubs and wheels to finish.

Should I start a new thread for this build ?

John Lewis

gbbwolf

08-05-2008, 07:17 AM

Theres a nice start, rolling chassis here ya come.

Thos hub disc's look fine the way they are when ya true the wheels you won't even notice if a few holes are out of whack.

Nelson

SirJoey

08-05-2008, 10:50 AM

Richie Rich

08-05-2008, 05:31 PM

It's not that you're slow, Joey.....You're just Half-Fast....:D
(Sorry, bud....I couldn't resist)

...King of all Puns....
.

TheKid

08-05-2008, 06:26 PM

I knew that was coming. I've been waiting for it for a year already.

Richie Rich

08-05-2008, 06:57 PM

Timing is everything...... :p

<RR>
.

TheKid

08-05-2008, 07:31 PM

Bing, and may I add, O

John Lewis

08-05-2008, 09:31 PM

Wow, John, you work fast! As I recall, it took me about a MONTH to get to that point!
Is EVERYONE in this forum faster than me? Sure looks that way!

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

Nah, I'm not too fast. Just happen to be retired now so I have bit of time
to myself now.

I was a school principal. Retired after 30 years of it. Then ran a flying school and became an events manager for a shopping centre. Also entertainer , magic shows. I have quit the flying school and events business and eased up on the other things. Worked as a bike mechanic last couple years until the shop was sold. Now I'm having time for me.

John Lewis

TheKid

08-05-2008, 09:34 PM

And it looks like you're making every minute count!

Richie Rich

08-06-2008, 12:18 AM

Nah, I'm not too fast. Just happen to be retired now so I have bit of time
to myself now.You've stumbled into the right place, John. There's quite a contingent of the "Over The Hill Gang" represented here. Many of us are in, or are about to enter 'Senior Citizen' territory.

But that doesn't mean we're a bunch of doddering fools waiting for that last bike ride. Far from it...!! You'll find a wealth of talented, creative (and sometimes a bit KrAzEE) folks ready to help you with your projects.

It's nice to have you along for the ride....

.....Richie Rich....
.

Pagan Wizard

08-06-2008, 02:51 AM

Is EVERYONE in this forum faster than me?

I'm not....I've been hanging around here for almost a year now and still don't even know how to weld. Wouldn't really matter much, cuz even if I did know how to weld, I lost my garage to my brothers boat. I don't have anywhere to store a custom ride. :(

SirJoey

08-06-2008, 12:01 PM

...I lost my garage to my brothers boat. I don't have anywhere to store a custom ride. :(

Man, that's a bummer! You just can't catch a break, can ya'? :(
Weren't you supposed to get up with another builder in your area?

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

Pagan Wizard

08-06-2008, 01:17 PM

Yeah, but that fell apart in the Springtime when my brother lost the storage he had for his boat.

back2life

08-08-2008, 03:18 PM

Wow, John, you work fast! As I recall, it took me about a MONTH to get to that point!
Is EVERYONE in this forum faster than me? Sure looks that way!

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif
I think I will fit into the catagory as the slowest for a couple of reasons. I am on disability so I have save my pennies and go around and collect beer abd soda pops cans and bottles. Not only do I need the materials (I just 1 20" wheel and three 26" foree from freecycle) I need the tools. The only tools I have are a claw hammer and a set of screw drivers. But I will be taking a welding class this fall term so I might get access to the equipment I would need for the build and get a grade at it to. If the class falls throught I am guessing I wont be welding until next summer. But ill let you all know how its going

John Lewis

08-10-2008, 10:10 PM

Hi All,

Reading the thread with interest.

back2life: Hang in there. Start collecting what you need a bit at a time. Try to do a little each day if you can and it will all come together. Must be somewhere to keep the bits. Perhaps find a friend or neighbour willing to let you keep things in his garage.

I know without my friends loaning me welders, tube benders etc I would never have started. I knew nothing about welding. I did some reading on the net and started to practice. The most helpful thing for me has been a cheap auto darken helmet as I have trouble focussing quickly and burn holes while my eyes focus.

John Lewis

John Lewis

08-10-2008, 10:27 PM

G'day again,

Well a bit more progress.
I've welded up the hubs and primed them. Now to spoke the wheels. I have to think it through as I recall that the spoking is different for disk brakes. If I have it correctly the trailing spokes are on the outside not the inside as Sheldon Brown shows for normal wheels.

The pictures show the primed and painted hubs and my version of the old fashioned Chair Bodgers' Pole Lathe setup from another era.

I used it to machine and clean up the welds with a file and a "chisel" made from a file. Not shown is the tool rest stand I used to rest the tool on. The grinder just wasn't suitable t5o get in and finish nicely.

Sorry I didn't photograph it in action. Set it up for a shot later. It did a good job on the hubs as you can see.

The modus operandi is that your foot goes in the loop and the work spins back and forth as you treadle. You only cut on the forward stroke. Old clock makers lathes were similar.

Anyway here are the pictures.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Primed.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Painted_Hub.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Lathe_bungee.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Loops_on_Axle.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Complete_Setup.jpg

Cheers,

John Lewis

trikeman

08-10-2008, 10:37 PM

That is looking great John. I remember how exciting that stage was. Soon you will be sitting on your rolling chassis!

AtomicZombie

08-10-2008, 11:04 PM

The Wolf is about to join the pack. Great stuff!

Brad

TheKid

08-11-2008, 02:12 AM

I haven't seen one of those machines in a long time. I knew an old carpenter who never used power tools, making everything by hand. He had a setup with a rope and a birch branch, that was kinda like a hand operated Shopmate. It was the power for a drill, a lathe, a jigsaw, a sander, and a table saw.

jimFPU

08-11-2008, 08:46 AM

Impressive. Maybe I'll give that a go, but on my ShopSmith. A gift from my mom. I could never afford one like this (and it has every accessory-I think).

Thanks, Mom.

TheKid

08-11-2008, 09:45 AM

Oops. That's what I meant - ShopSmith. You should have no problem turning out projects that look factory made.

jimFPU

08-11-2008, 09:55 AM

You assume I know how to use the silly thing!!!

I can do great woodwork with it, so I'll have to see what I can do with metal...not sure if I can get the speed low enough.

SirJoey

08-11-2008, 12:37 PM

There you go, raising the bar!
Clever setup, BTW!

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

n9viw

08-11-2008, 01:26 PM

Wow, I haven't seen a pole lathe (or bungee lathe?) actually used in a coon's age! That's a pretty slick setup. I don't know exactly how you'd use it for something like a saw or a drill, though, unless you fed the work back and forth into the cutting face while the cutting tool reversed and then started forward again.

For my contri to the 'antique tools' segue, I bought a hand-crank grinder last weekend. I plan to hook a foot treadle to it, like the old sewing machines, so I can use both hands on the piece being ground.
There's a fellow at the local renaissance fair who has a scroll saw powered by a bicycle wheel, he has rocks tied in the spokes for more rotating mass, and he hand-cuts all his wares with it. Very cool.

trikeman

08-11-2008, 01:39 PM

trikeman

08-11-2008, 01:41 PM

TheKid

08-11-2008, 02:55 PM

Good question. Now to test the theory that hardened steel will cut threads in aluminum. I'll look for an aluminum hub, and try to thread it with a hardened BB locknut.

TheKid

08-11-2008, 03:14 PM

Well I'll be a son of a monkey's uncle. It worked!

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z66/edpol_photos/000_0452Small.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z66/edpol_photos/000_0455Small.jpg

trikeman

08-11-2008, 03:44 PM

If that is a bottom bracket spindle sticking out, that would make one helluva stout axle! Have we just invented the poor man's 14+mm axle and tadpole disc brake adapter setup?

Now, the real question is how you keep the thing centered and lined up while it cuts.

TheKid

08-11-2008, 04:29 PM

trikeman

08-11-2008, 07:12 PM

No, that's a 14mm axle. It's the kit I mentioned. I bought the 14mm axle kit from bikepartsusa last year, and converted my old 3/8" axles to the beefy ones. I kept the BB locknut straight by being very careful. It wasn't easy. Next time, I'll try a chromoloy BB shell. That should be easier to keep aligned. Then again, if you're sucessful at making the adapter, it may pay to buy a die and diestock from victornet.com. Then you could sell the adapters to the other members to pay for it. It's a 1 3/8-24 special pitch die:

http://www.victornet.com/cgi-bin/victor/productlist.html?subdepartments=Special+Pitch+Dies %2C+1-3%2F16%22+and+Larger%3A1173%2C507%2C599

OK. I see now, all you really did in that picture is to thread on a bottom bracket ring onto an aluminum hub.

I know I have read before about you drilling out a 3/8" axle hub to fit a 14mm axle. I guess, since I didn't need one, I didn't really pay enough attention. Just so people understand, you get a hub with 3/8" axles and loose bearing type cups and remove the axle. Then, you get your step drill and drill it out large enough (9/16") so that the 14mm axle will go in. You put the axle in, and use the same bearings and cups that were in it orginally? Is it better to use a rear hub, since they are larger? Is this the one you bought?

http://www.bikepartsusa.com/bikeparts/item/01-114916/search/Bulletproof-BulleProof%2C-14mm%2C-Front%2C-Hub%2C-Axle-Set%2C-Complete-Loose-Ball-Type&category=search

TheKid

08-11-2008, 07:34 PM

trikeman

08-11-2008, 07:40 PM

Yes. But there are others that come with the cups. The cups are hardened steel, and are not that easy to drill out to 9/16".
What I did in the pics was demonstrate that if you can make your own freewheel/disc adapter from aluminum using a HP lathe, You won't have to have the threads cut by a machinist. In other words, that's a great idea you have, so why stop at threading the freewheel adapter?

Did you use your Harbor Freight step drill to drll them? Did it wear the step drill out? If so, I guess that is another reason why those 20" BMX wheels with 14mm axles are such a good deal when they are on sale for $20. I notice they went back up to $29 again. The wheels were pretty pricey to ship though.

John Lewis

08-11-2008, 09:49 PM

John - what do you use to cut with on that foot lathe? I wonder how hard it would be to cut my own aluminum hub adapters with a set up like that? I guess it would still not be possible to cut threads, but the basic shape might be doable.

I just used an old file carefully ground to a rounded off point. 3 corner ones are good.

It will work aluminum fine and even steel as you see. Can be very accurate with practice. Would be better driven from a small motor if you could rig it up with a slow speed.

You could make a real usable lathe with 2 bearings, A bit of shafting and one of those cheap XY vices for a drill press bolted to a channel iron bed. I built a model hot air engine that way about 15 years ago.

I now have a small metal lathe I built from scratch. Did castings and all. Google Vincent Gingery metal lathe . I bought the books. read 'em set up the foundry and built my lathe.

Threading would be more difficult. I can imagine having a spindle, geared one to one with a bit of suitably threaded rod .A tool mounted and a hand crank so it would cut a thread.

Hope that made sense. Saw something like it in an old book once. Might give it a try.

John Lewis

John Lewis

08-12-2008, 06:16 AM

Here I am again,

Well, last night I spoked up the wheels and thought I'd done well. This morning I realized I'd done it wrong and had to start again.

Why ?

I intend to use disk brakes both sides. Shimano says that the trailing spokes ( the ones that angle back) should be the outside spokes. You guessed it in one. I made two the same so one was right and one was wrong because we have a left and right wheel. They have to be mirror image. @#$%@#. Unspoke and start again.

AGHH! I forgot you have to be careful to get parallel spokes at the valve hole to make pumping easy. I've got a cross there.

Unspoke both wheels and adjust. I guess its all good practice. So now they are correct at last.

Somebody remind me to engage brain next time before starting !

On the plus side it only took about 10 minutes a wheel to get them trued up and up to tension. I'll put a dial guage on them tomorrow and see how close they really are. I think they are probably within 5 - 6 thou which will be close enough for me.

John Lewis

ggriffin924

08-12-2008, 08:22 AM

I did my spokes last night as well, only one wheel however. I calculated out my spoke length at 263, bought 265 and it looks like they are not going to tighten up to enough for it to work. I ran out of threads and they are still loose. So its back to the LBS today and try and get the right ones ordered, so maybe next week for wheels for my project. I am surprised its as hard to find a shop that still really knows how to build wheels around the Washington DC area, out of 3 shops only one even attempts it. Yours will be a rolling frame soon it looks like. Good luck.

John Lewis

08-13-2008, 10:41 AM

Bad luck there on the spoke size ggriffin. I had the spokes fromthe wheels I used.Used the calculator to work out my hub PCD. It was a bit out. Had to file maybe 1.5 mm off the spoke ends after tightening.

Hope you get the spokes soon.

My next decision is whether to go with Over seat or Under seat steering.

JohnLewis

ggriffin924

08-13-2008, 12:04 PM

I took my 265mm spokes back, along with the wheel to the LBS, and he still insisted that it would work so I tightened up a few and the spoke ends were up above the rim about 2mm, also I had a cross spoke where the valve hole was so they needed to be redone anyway. I am going to try and find some 260's now I've had the chance to see, what will work. The LBS did take back the spokes, it was a box of 100 DT Swift 14 ga, for $70. I am hoping I can find them cheaper, $70 for spokes just seems a bit high. Also he quoted me $20 per wheel to true the wheels.

Anyone know of a good source for spokes?

-Griffin-

gbbwolf

08-13-2008, 01:27 PM

But they are cheaper LOL.

http://www.niagaracycle.com/index.php?cPath=128&sort=2a&page=3

True your own wheels it is fun on a rainy day.

Nelson

TheKid

08-13-2008, 01:28 PM

I've been buyin mine from biketools. They sell them in 20 packs, and the nipples are extra. They also come in 20 packs. The price has gone up $1.50 in the past 2 weeks. For 36 spoke wheels, 2 wheels will cost $37.60, for 48 spokes you need an extra pack of 20, so they will cost $47 total. Both prices don't include shipping.

http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id=118767155994&c=Components&sc=Wheel-and-Rim&tc=Spokes/Straight-Gauge

John Lewis

08-14-2008, 08:04 AM

Finally got round to taking a photo.

Here are my wheels ready to for tires and fitting.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Spoked_up.jpg

Touched them up with a dial indicator to around .003 of true side to side and .015 worst in circumference. I really didn't need to do this. They were plenty good enough by eye as DI showed only 5-6 thou error anyway.

Hope I have them tight enough. That's the only question but I compared with other wheels and they are at least as tight I think.

I was a bit worried initially about building a wheel but I can honestly say it was no trouble at all.

Jon Lewis

AtomicZombie

08-14-2008, 10:43 AM

Good to see another set of wheels done with ease. I see you did the wheels on your livingroom couch? Seems like the best place to get the job done - I do the same.

Brad

SirJoey

08-14-2008, 02:30 PM

Touched them up with a dial indicator to around .003 of true side to side and .015 worst in circumference.

36-spokers, eh? Good work! Did mine the same way, with a DI.
You actually got your lateral true, closer than I did, but I beat you on the vertical. Got mine within .007 both ways.
Wanted to get within .005, & I guess I could've in time, but I just got tired of fooling with 'em, & figured .007 was close enough.
It's still truer than most wheels are from the factory.

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

John Lewis

08-14-2008, 09:32 PM

36-spokers, eh? Good work! Did mine the same way, with a DI.
You actually got your lateral true, closer than I did, but I beat you on the vertical. Got mine within .007 both ways.
Wanted to get within .005, & I guess I could've in time, but I just got tired of fooling with 'em, & figured .007 was close enough.
It's still truer than most wheels are from the factory.

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

Yes, I could have fooled round more with the vertical but decided it wasn't worth it. I've never seen a factory one that good.

New bikes at the shop can be out 1/16 inch or so and they dont seem to worry. I recall park tools suggesting 1mm each way being considered true.

I expect they won't stay that true after they've been ridden a while.

I think the DI makes the truing easier. I did them up to a pointer first though by eye.

All the best,

John Lewis

John Lewis

08-14-2008, 09:34 PM

Good to see another set of wheels done with ease. I see you did the wheels on your livingroom couch? Seems like the best place to get the job done - I do the same.

Brad

I sat and spoked them on the couch. Did the truing in the shed with the wheels in the DW frame. Photos on couch to get a nice background. :)

John Lewis

John Lewis

08-16-2008, 05:21 AM

Well I finally got to the rolling frame stage today. A bit behind schedule as I got waylaid with other jobs.

I think I have it set up fairly right. There seems to be excessive trail to me. About 4 inches without actually measuring. I would usually shoot for 1/2 to 1 inch on most of my bikes. Still it's what the plans show. The wheel tends to flop to one side when you push the bike. That can be annoying. Perhaps connecting the steering will help.

Here are the pics.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Rolling1.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/rolling2.jpg

Soon I'll have a finished trike. You little bewdy!

John Lewis

SirJoey

08-16-2008, 10:21 AM

...There seems to be excessive trail to me. About 4 inches without actually measuring. I would usually shoot for 1/2 to 1 inch on most of my bikes. Still it's what the plans show. The wheel tends to flop to one side when you push the bike. That can be annoying. Perhaps connecting the steering will help.

Don't hold your breath. Mine's the same way. I built it per the plans, but it still has too much trail.
Even with the steering connected, the wheel flops to one side or the other when parked, or even when riding, if I turn loose of the bars.

If I had it to do over, I'd definitely reduce that trail! In fact, if I was where you are in the build, I'd fix it now, before going any farther.

She's lookin' good, though, John! Always exciting to reach the "rolling frame" stage!

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

AtomicZombie

08-16-2008, 10:49 AM

You might want to do some test before making too much of an adjustment. I originally had much less trail on the first design and found it to be a bit twitchy at high speeds.

Brad

SirJoey

08-16-2008, 03:09 PM

You might want to do some test before making too much of an adjustment. I originally had much less trail on the first design and found it to be a bit twitchy at high speeds.

Good point, as the DW will definitely bring out the speed demon in ya! :D
I just don't have any big enough hills or muscles around here to get mine above about 25.
Guess I need to load this puppy on a trailer & take it somewhere!

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

gbbwolf

08-17-2008, 12:52 AM

John Lewis

08-17-2008, 03:42 AM

Had wheel flop issues on mine with about the same trail.'
Reduced mine to 2 inches no more flop and no twitchy steering.

Just worked for me test your own.

I just used a suggestion from someone to cut about 1/8 th of an inch up from the bottom weld and leave the top intact.

Then push 2 pieces back together and weld the 2 sides and bottom.
Bottom first of course.

IMAO

Nelson

Thanks all for the comments and suggestions. I'll test it before painting. That way no drama to change. If I have to change I can do as Nelson quotes.

The easy way would be the approach I took on the TE clone where I just raked the fork. Looks quite sporting and chopper like and you can sneak up on the best setting.

John Lewis

John Lewis

08-17-2008, 03:52 AM

So, I've looked at what others have done in the forum. I can get them made for $30 each if I supply the steel but there will be a wait.

So I knocked apart an old steel rear hub. Now I'm told these are hardened.

I don't know how hard. I chucked it in my homemade lathe and bored the threaded bit out for 3/4 inch shaft. No problem. Then I faced off the back and cut down the flange. The cruddy lathe and tool chattered a bit but it came out ok.

Now I just need to turn a collar and weld to it. I'll put a step in the collar and open the hole in the hub part so it sits together true then I'll braze it.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/fitting.jpg

So did I strike it lucky with a cheapo hub? Perhaps. The bit where the balls run is certainly hard. I think it must just be case hardened.

John Lewis

trikeman

08-17-2008, 08:25 AM

When I built my DW, I don't recall the plans calling for a specific trail (but my memory isn't what it used to be). Instead, I just set it up for about 2" and it seems to work fine, although I still get the wheel flop to the side when I park it.

SirJoey

08-17-2008, 01:06 PM

You're right, TM. No trail was specified in the plans, just the down tube length, & head tube angle.

Good thinking John, using a raked fork is the way to go. I'd have used one on mine, but I've just had no luck at all locating raked 20" forks. Everything I have is those fat tube, straight type, which can't be bent without cutting 'em, & I didn't really wanna get into hacking a fork & trying to get it right.

So far, I've had to use those straight forks on everything, & it looks like that trend will continue into my upcoming LWB bent, but this time around, I'll allow for it in advance, with a steeper head tube angle.

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

John Lewis

08-17-2008, 08:52 PM

Usful information there papa.

I wrecked a couple of forks way back refining the technique.

As sir J. says finding suitable forks to rake is a problem. I have some suitble 26 in ones so I'll cut them down and rebraze the dropouts.

John Lewis

gbbwolf

08-18-2008, 12:31 AM

Mikes wolf will have a fully suspended 26 inch front wheel and forks.
getting the steering arm welded in a good place is looking like a challenge.
But think if I weld it to the inside of the fork leg it will work.
He wanted a 26 in front so he only had to carry one size tube and a spare tire.

I hit rolling frame stage today.

Nelson

AtomicZombie

08-18-2008, 11:18 AM

I ended up putting the arm on the top of the crown...

http://forum.atomiczombie.com/showthread.php?t=1054

Steering range is slightly reduced turning left, but seems fine for most city riding. Most of the time, we make sharper right turns being on the right side of the road, so this works out ok.

Brad

Mikes wolf will have a fully suspended 26 inch front wheel and forks.
getting the steering arm welded in a good place is looking like a challenge.
But think if I weld it to the inside of the fork leg it will work.
He wanted a 26 in front so he only had to carry one size tube and a spare tire.

I hit rolling frame stage today.

Nelson

John Lewis

08-18-2008, 08:48 PM

...

I hit rolling frame stage today.

Nelson

That's great Nelson. Pictures ?

John Lewis

John Lewis

08-19-2008, 12:22 AM

G'day all,
Got a bit more done but didn't get much time today.

Here are some shots of the adapter I fabricated from a bit of rod and the drive side of a hub brazed up.

It may be out a bit far and I'll have to turn the bearing around. We'll see.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Adapter.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Trial_fit2.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Sprocket_fitted.jpg

I have tapped for two 1/4 in set screws. I will use a long one 3/4 the way through and a short one at right angles and only 1/4 or so in just to ensure no movement of the adapter. Maybe a bit of super bearing mount too.

John Lewis

gbbwolf

08-20-2008, 03:07 AM

Picture is here.
http://forum.atomiczombie.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=234&d=1219197889

Thats My wolf and his new one.

Nelson

John Lewis

08-20-2008, 07:32 AM

Picture is here.
http://forum.atomiczombie.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=234&d=1219197889

Thats My wolf and his new one.

Nelson

I was about to say, "Where is here? "
I'd found it with a look round the forums earlier.
Edit: Must be my 'puter. Now the pic has shown up here. Didn't at first.

Good looking bikes. Will sure be interesting to see how the 26" front rides.

John Lewis

John Lewis

08-20-2008, 07:54 AM

So now I'm looking for all the little bits. Disk brakes, derailers,rings,sprockets and all. A single cable operated disk is well over $100 aud at the LBS.

I saw a cheap mountain bike for $129 with disks and suspension. It was in the Super Cheap Auto catalog that showed up in the mailbox .

"Just the thing says I. I'll get the brakes and all the extras and the suspension will do for a Maurauder." Hey, not great quality perhaps but good for starters.

Shot into town to buy one. No good. They had only been allocated six and sold the lot in the first hour after opening.

Tried the big Dept Stores. Nothing under $200 and no disks.

Back to square one.

John Lewis

John Lewis

08-22-2008, 08:51 AM

Had to work on the other trike today that I'm doing for a friend.

Tomorrow I'll start on the seaat for the wolf. Im going to copy the general style of the Euromesh seat if I can. I think the wood and upholstry seat will not be good in the hot summer.

Maybe I could have both and switch them between seasons :)

Here are some shots of the blue trike. The Wolf is in the background.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Blue_Trike.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Rear.jpg

John Lewis

TheKid

08-22-2008, 09:00 AM

The blue trike is excellent. What kind of rear hub is that?

John Lewis

08-22-2008, 11:02 AM

That's an SRAM Dual Drive 3X8 .
Three in hub. Eight on Derailer.

With a three ring on front 72 gears. With a fair bit of near duplication unfortunately.

We'll have a 52 42 32 ring to an 11 32 plus the hub. Not sure of its gearing.

John Lewis

John Lewis

08-22-2008, 09:29 PM

G'day Kid,

Thought I'd give a few details of the blue trike for interest. I'd love to do a Wolf in round tube like this one but it would probably flex too much. Might have to try it and see.

The blue trike: Based on Bentech SWB plan with cross tube added instead of head tube.

Main frame 2" od muffler tube.

Pedal extension tube : Muffler tube. Next size down slit and rewelded to fit in main tube.

Cross member: Same size tube as used for pedal ext tube. about 1 7/8" I think.

Chain stays: 25mm (1") X 1.6 mm galvanized tube

Seat: 19mm (3/4") gal tube to be covered with mesh bungied on.

Head tube bearings: Sintered bronze bushes with grease nipples.

Front wheels: As for StreetFox.

Rear wheel: Hand built

Bare frame weight 5kg

Estimated complete weight with fenders and rack 20 - 22 kg

hope that's of interest.

John Lewis

TheKid

08-22-2008, 11:07 PM

Excellent. Thanks for the info. Your gear range is 19-166.8 gear inches with 26x2.125 wheels and tires.
Bare frame weight = 11 lbs.
Estimated complete weight = 44 - 48.4 lbs.

John Lewis

08-23-2008, 05:24 AM

Not quite that high.

This trike has 20" wheels. Range should be something like 13 to 120 gear inches.

Its the same as our LoGo trikes. I know the top gear is too high anyway except down a decent hill where we sometimes hit in excess of 50 mph.

John Lewis

TheKid

08-23-2008, 05:50 AM

Yes, the 20" wheels reduce the gearing quite a bit. I believe the range would be 13.7-120.1.
On flat ground, @ 60 rpm, in the highest gear you'd be doing 21.4 mph. Not too shabby for 20" wheels. I can see going 50+ mph on a good hill. I can get up to 90 rpm @ 71 gear inches with my bad knees and hips, so I'd say 60 rpm @ 120 GI's is a conservative figure for someone in decent physical condition.

Pagan Wizard

08-28-2008, 03:26 AM

Wow, John, you work fast! As I recall, it took me about a MONTH to get to that point!
Is EVERYONE in this forum faster than me? Sure looks that way!

I'm not....I've been hanging around here for almost a year now and still don't even know how to weld. Wouldn't really matter much, cuz even if I did know how to weld, I lost my garage to my brothers boat. I don't have anywhere to store a custom ride. :(

Man, that's a bummer! You just can't catch a break, can ya'? :(
Weren't you supposed to get up with another builder in your area?

I had a glimmer of hope layed before my feet today. Mt brother told me that he might be selling his boat, someone is coming over Saturday to look at it. I have my fingers, toes, and even the little bit of hair that I have left on my head crossed.

John Lewis

08-28-2008, 09:21 AM

Hi Pagan Wizard,
Good luck. Hope things pan out and you can start to build.

I'm slowed down at the moment. Waiting for disk brake from Ebay to arrive. Spent today finishing up the euromesh style seat frame and the steering. Have to wait until next week to get the mesh made up. I can't weld the steerer until I mount the seat so I can test for best position. So its all at a standstill.

John Lewis

John Lewis

08-29-2008, 03:14 AM

G'day all,

Here are the latest pics. Not a lot more done.

The brazed seat frame
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Seat.jpg

The seat sitting on the trike
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/seat2.jpg

General view. Steerer tube,seat and BB
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Prrogress.jpg

I'm going to pivot the seat in a clamp tube so it can be tipped up or down a little to adjust the seat back angle. I'd like to have been able to move it fore and aft an inch or two as well but I can't see an elegant easy way to do that.

I'm getting there. Not a real lot left to do but all these odds and ends seem to take ages.

John Lewis

ggriffin924

08-29-2008, 08:33 AM

n9viw

08-29-2008, 09:16 AM

PW, best of luck on your brother selling his boat! My offer of assistance is still open, although my garage is not. Actually, it's jammed full, but we're headed out to the farm this weekend and the one after next so hopefully we can get some of the crap out of there.

Anybody want to buy a 250A MIG welder? It's 3-phase, unfortunately, but if you don't care about that, I'll make ya a great deal! :D

John Lewis

08-29-2008, 09:32 AM

I worked on the same thing last night the seat, I used 3/4 emt for mine a similar design. But I just welded mine don't have the setup for brazing right now. The EMT does weld really easy compared to the square tubing. I might have to cut my right side support and relocate it so my chain can clear or not, I don't have my BB installed yet to test that. Either way I think I can make it work. Your seat looks much more narrow than mine, I made mine narrow at the top, and wider at the bottom.

My Delta Wolf (http://picasaweb.google.com/ggriffin924/Griffins_DeltaWolf) pics

-Griffin-

My tube is 16mm about 5/8" gal tube. Emt is unobtainable here. The 16mm is a bit under 16ga 1.2mm and plenty strong. I've used it on nearly all my builds.

The seat is my experimental version of a Euromesh seat. it is 10" wide and has a lumbar support. The mesh will be pulled very tight with cable ties and will be covered with an aircon foam pad. this foam is hard, black, breathable and doesn't soak up moisture.

I always put in a lumbar support. It is a lot more comfortable. Usually I make the seats about 15" wide with C shape cross members and lace with bungey. No pad is used then.

John Lewis

SirJoey

08-29-2008, 04:19 PM

Man, that bad boy is really shaping up nicely, John!

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

Pagan Wizard

08-30-2008, 02:45 AM

:cool:PW, best of luck on your brother selling his boat! My offer of assistance is still open, although my garage is not. Actually, it's jammed full, but we're headed out to the farm this weekend and the one after next so hopefully we can get some of the crap out of there.

Thank you very much n9......I will definately keep you up to date as to whatever happens here.

John Lewis

09-01-2008, 11:18 PM

Just received my disk brakes in mail. 5 days from China. bought via Ebay. There were several available. Wish I could have afforded more.
Now I can get on and finish this machine.:)

John lewis

ggriffin924

09-02-2008, 09:16 AM

Yours is looking good, let us know how it handles. I haven't even started on mounting my brakes I need to do that. I got two disc brakes and was wondering if I really needed to install both, are you installing them on both the back wheels or just one? I have also considered a front fork brake just as a backup or for a parking brake.

For my brake adapters I ordered mild steel 5/8 shaft collars with set screws, so I can weld them to the side of the plate to make them a bit thicker at the axle area. :cool:

-Griffin-

John Lewis

09-02-2008, 10:02 AM

g'day ggriffin,

I decided to install both disks on the back. It's probably overkill. One on back and a caliper or V brake on the front would be plenty. I'd want two brake redundency in case of a failure. It's also a legal requirement here.

I'm doing similar to you for the disks. I'll turn up a wider collar with a lip to help center it on the disk adapter plate. I'll braze them together.

As I have a 3/4" axle I'm going to drill through and either tap for a long setscrew as is done in LodeRunner or I'll use a 1/4" bolt rather than welding. I want to be able to get my axles out if necessary later.

I was wondering if gun blue might help stop the axles rusting. Paint would be a pain as you'ld need to clean it off to get the axle out. Maybe I should have used stainless steel. I could easily have got a piece.

John Lewis

SirJoey

09-02-2008, 01:08 PM

...I decided to install both disks on the back. It's probably overkill.

I was wondering if gun blue might help stop the axles rusting. Maybe I should have used stainless steel.

Overkill? Nope, just wise! That's the way I did mine.

Stainless axles? Whoa, that'd be nice! Meantime, if the gun blue doesn't work, I'd just wipe 'em down occasionally with a little light oil.

http://img390.imageshack.us/img390/9913/dsc03528iw8.jpg

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

Locutus

09-02-2008, 02:49 PM

You can find a good trail calculator at http://www.recumbents.com.

The site is set up so that you have to search within the site for the calculator. I can't provide a direct link. Click the above link, then type "trail" in the google search field at the top left of the page, in the banner. Then click on the Trail Calculator link from the list. The calulator will help to find the optimal trail for your particular design. Just fill in the parameters.

AtomicZombie

09-02-2008, 03:10 PM

Right click on the page you want, get "properties" and the direct URL will be there.

http://www.wisil.recumbents.com/wisil/trail.asp

Brad

gbbwolf

09-03-2008, 02:45 AM

I like that papa.
SImple yet effective.

Worked well for me.

Nelson

John Lewis

09-03-2008, 08:55 AM

Yes, I've used this site in the past. The calculator is easy to use . I've also enjoyed playing with the power calculator. Interesting how some changes make very little difference. On the streamliners and fared bikes the wider high pressure tires give best results.

John Lewis

John Lewis

09-06-2008, 11:47 PM

Discussed this some time back and the advisability or otherwise of altering trail.

Looking in a magazine yesterday I saw a disabled trike with a huge amount of trail and a centring spring. I decided to see what it would be like.

On the front fork I made a short arm of wire and fitted it through the old brake mount. It sticks out about an inch or so. Then I attached a light spring back to the main frame and held it with a clamp.

Did it work? Yes, very well indeed. I can now push the trike in a straight line from the back and steer it by pushing more on one side than the other. Before if I tried this the wheel just swung round sideways and skidded.

I think I'll weld a loop on the main headtube frame so I can fit a spring later if I need it.

The downside? It looks a bit dorky to me.

John Lewis

John Lewis

09-15-2008, 03:21 AM

Well after much phaffing about and not much done for some time I finally have a brake mounted.

I decided not to weld but to make an adapter to hold the disk to the shaft. Of course I couldn't buy set screw collars in this town so I had to make them.

Heres what the adapters look like.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/brake-adapter.jpg

I played wth a few mount ideas and spent a lot of time making a fancy mount. Didn't like it so I ended up using a couple of bits of angle just as Brad had suggested.

Here are some shots of a mounted brake
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/brake1.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/brake2.jpg

To Do.
I have to finish the seat. Need some1/4' aluminium rod to put down the hems in the mesh cover to pull the cable ties up against. Another item not available here.

Fit the steering. Once the seat is on I'll determine that perfect position.

Fit dereailers ,chainring chain etc.

Then I can test ride strip and paint. Not a lot to do but my time to work on the bike is suddenly at a premium. Also these little bits seem to take a lot longer than the basic framework.

Still I'm getting there.

John Lewis

savarin

09-15-2008, 04:19 AM

To Do.
I have to finish the seat. Need some1/4' aluminium rod to put down the hems in the mesh cover to pull the cable ties up against. Another item not available here.
What about stainless or aluminium welding rods? They come in various thicknesses and if they have to overlap and its on a straight part of the seat there should be no problem. I also think 3/16" should be more than thick enough, maybe even 1/8", the stress is spread over a large area but it will depend upon how many ties you use.

ggriffin924

09-15-2008, 09:22 AM

The brake mounts look good, I went with a smaller rotor on mine so tabs would not work. Your install looks a lot cleaner than mine, which is a piece of angle iron that I had to cut and bend then weld back in a triangle piece to it. When I build another one, I'm going to run a bigger disk that way the caliper will be mounted closer to the frame and not have to be lowered down a couple of inches.

http://forum.atomiczombie.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=269&stc=1&d=1221484854

-Griffin-

Richie Rich

09-15-2008, 11:05 PM

Another way to mount calipers....

In keeping with my 'KISS' way of doing things, I took a slab of flat steel, drillled a couple of holes in it and welded it to the frame. I have dual brakes, so there's one on each axle.

Easy.....strong...safe.

...Richie Rich....

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2408/...8eb1c56bd0.jpg (http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2408/2118086457_8eb1c56bd0.jpg)
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2397/2118087795_0e3306311e_o.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2196/2118086675_52c9725433_b.jpg

.

John Lewis

09-16-2008, 02:32 AM

Another way to mount calipers....

In keeping with my 'KISS' way of doing things, ..........

...Richie Rich....

.

That's very similar to what my first effort was but I wasn't quite happy with it or where it was to fit so I used the angle.

John Lewis

John Lewis

09-23-2008, 09:16 AM

Well, I managed to get a bit more done today. I made a sleeve to go between the right hand brake adapter and the bearing so as to lock the axle in. It also stops any movement in the adapter, as I bored the hole for the axle a thou or so oversize. The left one is held in by the freewheel adapter.

I mounted the seat so I could sit on the trike and determine how and where I wanted the steerer assembly. That was marked and then welded in place. My welding is improving and I didn't need to do any grinding. Removed the seat so I wouldnt burn it with spatter. I also welded the steerer arm onto the fork.

I would have finished the steering rod but I decided my 1/4" rod ends were a bit light for the job. I'll go get the next size up tomorrow. I'm also thinking of making a flip stem as getting on the seat is a bit awkward. That is trivial to do and won't take long. I've made a number of them.

Once I do that I can go coast down the hill out front and try the ride. :)

As soon as I get a chainring and rear sprocket organized The bike will be ready to ride. Then I have to tear it down to paint. I'm getting quite excited about it all.

I'll get some photos tomorrow to show the progress unless I go on the Over 50's weekly ride. That will depend on the weather.

John Lewis

ggriffin924

09-23-2008, 09:44 AM

I had the same problem with exit off and getting on the bike with the steering where I liked it. I really like the hinge steering mod.

I would have finished the steering rod but I decided my 1/4" rod ends were a bit light for the job. I'll go get the next size up tomorrow. I'm also thinking of making a flip stem as getting on the seat is a bit awkward. That is trivial to do and won't take long. I've made a number of them.

Once I do that I can go coast down the hill out front and try the ride. :)
John Lewis

I used the 1/4 rod ends because my steering tube wasn't big enough for the 3/8" ones I had on hand. I agree the 1/4 is a bit light, but its what I have on mine and they seem really solid so far, and I really like to torque the wheel to try and get the trike up on two wheels etc. It is a surprising design you would think the steering rod would be loaded more than it is.

-Griffin-

trikeman

09-23-2008, 11:57 AM

Does it strike anyone else as odd that we have a thread entitled "About to Start" with 110 posts?

TheKid

09-23-2008, 12:12 PM

I thought the same thing about 90 posts ago.

AtomicZombie

09-23-2008, 02:24 PM

Soon it will have to change to - about to finish.

Brad

John Lewis

09-23-2008, 09:24 PM

Soon it will have to change to - about to finish.

Brad

Yes agreed. I thought the same thing

Am I able to change the thread title? If so I'll change it to something more appropriate.

John Lewis

John Lewis

09-25-2008, 09:54 AM

Got the wolf together enough today to try rolling it down hill out front. Helen tried it too. She liked it. Come to that so did I.

First impression. I'll need to alter the trail. Way too much but I expected that. When you turn past a certain point you have to fight the steering to stop it tightening up further. Also noticed the up, down movement each side of centre. I had the same problem with the LWB which had a similar amount of trail and I had to get down to an inch or so on that before I was happy.

The down hill accelleration and speed was less than I expected. It was very slow compared with the tadpole I'd just built. Tadpole would have been doing twice the speed by the bottom of the hill and its lighter. Probably due to the old knobbly mountain bike tyres on the wolf I suspect.

Now all I've got to do is source some derailers, chain and sprockets. The LBS was most unhelpful unfortunately.

Somebody even suggested I should stop mucking around with homemade rubbish and buy a proper, ie, road bike.

Pics tomorrow.

John Lewis

greenevegiebeast

09-25-2008, 10:40 AM

John youve almost finished.

ggriffin924

09-25-2008, 02:27 PM

I've gotten the same reaction from my LBS, and this one even had some recumbent parts, I had my eye on a mesh seat, the bike shop guy said what bike it went to. I asked how much, and he said you have one of those, I said no, just something I'm working on he quoted me $150 for the seat. But wouldn't sell it to me when I told him about how I was going to cut this part off and weld a tab here etc. Something about liability and safety etc. I'm glad I just built my own seat anyway, but at the time, I did want the seat just not for $150. Now when I go to the LBS, I just tell them its a mountain bike or road bike depending on what part I need.

Now all I've got to do is source some derailers, chain and sprockets. The LBS was most unhelpful unfortunately.
Somebody even suggested I should stop mucking around with homemade rubbish and buy a proper, ie, road bike.
John Lewis

SirJoey

09-25-2008, 08:50 PM

Another way to mount calipers....
In keeping with my 'KISS' way of doing things, I took a slab of flat steel, drillled a couple of holes in it and welded it to the frame. I have dual brakes, so there's one on each axle.
Easy.....strong...safe.

I can vouch for this! As you'll recall, Richie, I used your method myself.

I found it both stimulating AND refreshing, with no bitter aftertaste! AHHHH....

http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/4500/dsc03043bi6.jpg

http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/2702/dsc03336ds4.jpg

http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/3176/dsc03502ku8.jpg

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

Richie Rich

09-26-2008, 01:10 AM

Thanx, Joey....

"Simple solutions from the Simple minded". :D

....Simply Richie.....
.

TheKid

09-26-2008, 01:45 AM

Now that you guys mention it,

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z66/edpol_photos/Hauler%20Fork/000_0295_0001Small.jpg?t=1222407834

Here's how to make a cardboard template:

http://s192.photobucket.com/albums/z66/edpol_photos/caliper%20template/

John Lewis

09-26-2008, 08:38 AM

Wish I'd seen that elegent solution to the brake mount before I did mine. Very nice. Still mine is simple and works so I won't complain.

Here are the pics from yesterday.

Unpainted, jury rigged brake, ready to roll.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Ready-1.jpg

The finished seat. Still to get foam cushion (Its comfortable like this)

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/The-seat.jpg

My first roll down the hill. What's that sticking out the side of his head?

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Rolldown.jpg

Helen gives it a try.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Helen.jpg

Today I lowered the trail. Might have overdone it a bit. Only about an inch of trail now. Very little pressure on the steering and the annoying up down movement is gone. The worst thing is it raised the front of the bike quite a bit and I now need to lengthen the steering rod.

Now to get pedals and chain hooked up.

John Lewis

trikeman

09-26-2008, 10:25 AM

Very nice build John. You are almost ready to hit the road.

AtomicZombie

09-26-2008, 11:34 AM

Great stuff - another one hits the road!

If you do find yourself a pair of those curved granny handlebars, try them out. They will seem much more natural than the straight bars.

Hope to see the painted trike soon!

Brad

KoolKat

09-26-2008, 11:40 AM

Another aweseome build!

SirJoey

09-26-2008, 11:43 AM

That's great, John!
That seat is out of this world! You should be able to sit on that baby till your legs turn to jelly! :D

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

ggriffin924

09-26-2008, 12:49 PM

Very nice, I like the seat also. But do you really need to hook up the chain, as long as you have a hill to coast down. LOL. Mine stayed at the needing a pusher stage for awhile, till the room-mates wouldn't push anymore, then I reluctantly added a drive train.

-Griffin-

TheKid

09-26-2008, 01:31 PM

Wow. The color of the metal is so uniform, you could clear coat the whole thing and it would look like darkened stainless steel. Great seat.

John Lewis

09-26-2008, 11:10 PM

If you do find yourself a pair of those curved granny handlebars, try them out. They will seem much more natural than the straight bars.

Brad
I have my eye out for some. May fabricate my own. I don't like the flat bar but it's ok to try. I will also make a flip stem to make getting on and off easier.

Another aweseome build!
Thanks KoolKat. Its the awesome designer that's behind it all.

That's great, John!
That seat is out of this world! You should be able to sit on that baby till your legs turn to jelly! :D

Yes it was easy to make and very comfortable. It should be even better when it gets the aircon foam pad.

Very nice, I like the seat also. ...
-Griffin-

The seat is a "clone" more or less of a Euromesh seat. I've only seen pictures. Having the slope out front means no need for a push but hey, I could have done with helpers to bring it back up.

I'm looking forward to pedals so I can see what it can do. Need to fit some brazeons yet for racks,lights,trailer etc. I though it would be cool to fit some of those LED stop, tail, turn signal lights that they sell at the trailer places. Don't know how much current they draw but a small battery should be enough.

Thanks all for the kind words. The forum is great. Very helpful and a great incentive to continue and finish the build. Not to mention the next and the next.

John Lewis

John Lewis

09-30-2008, 01:19 AM

I got hold of a nice chain wheel set but the small ring runs too close to the BB mount bolts and causes a problem with the chain. I found the longest BB axle I could but it's still not enough.

I guess I can tap the holes, screw in from the other side and then cut off the excess or perhaps I can find some countersunk head bolts. Either way its a hold up.

The deraileur post needs to be angled back more too as the bottom of the deraileur cage hits the chain in the smallest ring. I think I can notch the post, bend and reweld rather than totally temoving and starting again. Of course I could lengthen the Deraileur plates as per post elswhere. Decisions, decisions.

I'm having no luck finding an idler. I wonder if I can make one. My idea is to use pieces of those nylon or whatever breadboards. They come in different thicknesses. Cut three disks, two thin and one thick then bolt them together with a ring of 15 or so small bolts. I can sandwich a ballrace or two in the centre.

Now, when the rain stops, I'll ride into town to see what I can find.

John Lewis

John Lewis

09-30-2008, 01:28 AM

Wow. The color of the metal is so uniform, you could clear coat the whole thing and it would look like darkened stainless steel. Great seat.

Hi Kid,
Somehow missed your post before.

The metal was painted and I flap wheeled the paint off. It looks good in the photo but not as nice up close. I need paint and filler to hide the imperfections. Maybe I could do the next build in polished stainless. :) The guys at my friend's wine tank building factory would help. It would be a bit different from their usual 70000 litre tanks anyway.

John Lewis

gbbwolf

09-30-2008, 02:39 AM

Hey john did you get the axle in the right way one side is longer but bet you knew that already.
On my bottom bracket I noticed the clearance issue a bit also on chainring side so when I rebuilt my bottom bracket I slid it slightly to the chainring side 1/4 inch.
Instead of centering it on the brackets.
As far as an idler goes wheelchair front casters work great, built mine from that they have a nice bearing and through a whole summer of riding I have not had a problem or even seen any wear on it.

Oh and Love that seat also nice work.

Nelson

John Lewis

09-30-2008, 06:00 AM

Hey john did you get the axle in the right way one side is longer but bet you knew that already..............

As far as an idler goes wheelchair front casters work great, built mine from that............

Oh and Love that seat also nice work.

Nelson

Yes Nelson, I turned thes pindle round to use the long side. Don't want to cut it apart. probably ruin it. It is a neww BB shell bought from Greenspeed.

Thanks for the heads up on the idler. Good idea. I'll see what I can find.

The seat did come out nice. A friend stitched the covering.

John Lewis

John Lewis

10-03-2008, 05:52 AM

Today I picked up a pulley for the Idler. Got it at the Fitness Equipment Shop. Guy didn't want to sell it to me. Concerned about liability. I said "That's my problem. Worst can happen it breaks and I'm out of pocket." He finally grudgingly agreed to let me have it.

Anyway it is plastic, 4" in diameter and has a curved track that's not really apparent in my pic. It has a single ballrace and tends to rock on the balls a bit.

At least it will do for now.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Idler2.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/idler1.jpg

I took out the plastic spacer\bush in the first pic so you can see the ballrace.

The second pic attempts to show the track curvature. When a chain is laid in it it doesn't quite bottom out. Guess it will wear in.

Anyway. Do you think this will be ok or have I wasted my money?

We'll be away now a couple of days. Have to go up to the city for my nephew's wedding.

John Lewis

SirJoey

10-03-2008, 08:25 AM

Personally John, I would think it would work fine, but then, I'm the guy who was caught climbling the pear tree to get apples for a peach cobbler...

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

savarin

10-03-2008, 09:47 AM

ggriffin924

10-03-2008, 12:30 PM

TheKid

10-03-2008, 01:41 PM

John Lewis

10-03-2008, 09:54 PM

Looks a lot like the one I used also, and the rocking might help with chain twist also. I tried mine with the stop nut loose so lessen the angles going to the rear derailleur, and it did help, but I got to much wobble from the idler so I tightened it back down. But if all you get is wobble and not sliding like I tried, it might be better.

-Griffin-

I saw one on a two wheel bent that had two bearings to slide on a long bolt. It didn't have any rocking and moved back and forth with the chain. Worked well.

I'm tempted to try to make one like the greenspeed. It is a nylon disk. Holes have been drilled about 3/8" dia on the pitch circle and to finish about 3/16" in from the edge. The track is then turned down to about half that depth and a bit more again each side of centre. The end result is a pulley with a central "sprocket" for the chain to run on.

Using Giles Pucket's program for chain wheels to get a print out would make it fairly easy and probably could do any turning on a drill press at a pinch. I have a simple homemade lathe so the turning would be easy. That program is great for making your own custom chain wheels.

http://moz.geek.nz/mozbike/giles.html
(spaceley sprockets. Will run under wine in linux.)

John Lewis

John Lewis

10-03-2008, 10:07 PM

Assuming you will use parts from donor bikes, you'll need at least 2 of them. So if you get them for 20 bucks each, add the cost of the frame and axle. Total should be about 90 bucks. It's easy to make your own freewheel and disc adapters, but add a few bucks more for flat steel. A disc and caliper will cost about 30 bucks, and an extra length of chain is another 7 bucks. So now you're up to about $130. You could make a decent seat for about 30 bucks, tandem cables and casings 20 bucks, paint 10-20 bucks. So figure around 200 bucks, and another 20 - 30 for discs, welding rods or wire, and the electricity you use. It can be made cheaper if you shop around for scrap steel and free donors. But even at 200-250 bucks, you have a custom made machine that fits you, and that you have pride in. Try buying a custom built trike for that price. it'll never happen.
If you want to use all new parts, you could buy 2 new bikes for 60 bucks each, and you're still under 400 bucks. You won't get a custom built for that price either.

I think this was meant for the other thread. But I agree thoroughly with your estimate on cost. I think the cost is directly proportional to your scrounging abilities.

There is nothing like a bike you've built yourself. I don't think money can buy that feeling of pride and satisfaction.

When I built by SWB I used all new quality parts, Powder coating etc. The cost was just under $1000. No way could I buy a commercially made unit of equal component quality and finish for that money. It would cost at least three times as much.

I had an LBS sticker on it from the place where I worked. A group of bent riders were looking at it and wanted to know what brand it was. They refused to believe me when Told I'd built it myself.

So yes go for it you won't be disappointed.

John Lewis

TheKid

10-03-2008, 10:31 PM

Oops. Yes somehow it ended up here. But since the title of this thread is "About to Start", it still applies. Estimating the cost is one of the first steps one takes.
That must be an awesome SWB, considering the cost of components. I was at my LBS recently, and the owner showed me some bikes that cost 300-400 dollars. I was surprised that the components; deraillers, brake/shifter units, BB units, and cranksets, would cost about $125 if bought online. I later added everything, including the rims, hubs and tires, which would cost another hundred or so. These are all middle quality components, so you could imagine how small the sum is for the manufacturers of cheap department store bikes with lesser quality components. For instance, a derailler that we'd pay 8 bucks for online, probably costs the manufacturer 2 or 3 dollars.

bambuko

10-04-2008, 01:36 PM

... The end result is a pulley with a central "sprocket" for the chain to run on...
John Lewis

you mean, something like this?:
http://www.utahtrikes.com/PRODINFO-Delrin_Deluxe_Power_Idler.html
the only thing I would say - it is delrin not nylon (bog standard nylon wouldn't last five minutes :) )

Chris

Pagan Wizard

10-05-2008, 02:14 AM

I'm the guy who was caught climbling the pear tree to get apples for a peach cobbler...

didnt taste like rhubarb did they?:D

Actually they tasted like bananas. :eek:

Pagan Wizard

10-05-2008, 02:19 AM

ggriffin924

10-05-2008, 08:58 PM

I'd love to have mine slide without the wobble, although I've got it shifting pretty well now, with little noise. I used a cheap derailleur for my return side take up, I am looking for a better one, because its the only noise from the drive train, I am very surprised how quiet it can be. My idler only has one bearing that must be why I get so much wobble when I loosen it on the bolt, I didn't even think about looking for an idler with two bearings. Thanks.

-Griffin-

I saw one on a two wheel bent that had two bearings to slide on a long bolt. It didn't have any rocking and moved back and forth with the chain. Worked well.

I'm tempted to try to make one like the greenspeed. It is a nylon disk. Holes have been drilled about 3/8" dia on the pitch circle and to finish about 3/16" in from the edge. The track is then turned down to about half that depth and a bit more again each side of centre. The end result is a pulley with a central "sprocket" for the chain to run on.

Using Giles Pucket's program for chain wheels to get a print out would make it fairly easy and probably could do any turning on a drill press at a pinch. I have a simple homemade lathe so the turning would be easy. That program is great for making your own custom chain wheels.
John Lewis

John Lewis

10-06-2008, 07:16 AM

you mean, something like this?:
http://www.utahtrikes.com/PRODINFO-Delrin_Deluxe_Power_Idler.html
the only thing I would say - it is delrin not nylon (bog standard nylon wouldn't last five minutes :) )

Chris

Yes could well be delrin. It's black and looks like what the bearing place sells as lubron which I understood was something like nylon impregnated with graphite.

I've used the lubron in powerside idlers and it works fine.

John Lewis

John Lewis

10-06-2008, 07:23 AM

I used a cheap derailleur for my return side take up, I am looking for a better one, because its the only noise from the drive train, I am very surprised how quiet it can be..........
......... I didn't even think about looking for an idler with two bearings. Thanks.

-Griffin-

I'm yet to use a derailleur for a return. I've always used chain tubes in the past. Guess I'll get to try the derailleur idea on the Wolf.

You're welcome. I think He'd made that idler himself.

John Lewis

John Lewis

10-10-2008, 06:01 AM

Well not much progress of late due to other commitments. Today I sorted out my front deraileur problem and looked at the idler placement. I have raised a seperate thread on the idler.

With the angle called out in the plans the chain dragged on the bottom of the cage. I couldn't find a longer unit so I cut and rewelded the post to lower the angle. The post is now not truly radial. This means there is a slightly bigger gap at the top of the cage than the bottom in relation to the big ring. About 1/16" or so. If its a problem the dremel will fix it in short order.

I overdid the angle a bit but it seems that I could fit both a bigger big ring and a smaller small ring and the deraileur would still cope now.

The first picture shows the difference between the plan angle (shown by the gauge) and what I altered it to. The second picture shows the entire setup with the deraileur and the rings.

Hopefully I'll be riding this machine soon,

John Lewis

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Derailer-post.jpg

John Lewis

10-17-2008, 03:11 AM

Today I managed to sort out most of my problems and get the chain on.

I had to extend the top section of the deraileur to get it to sit properly in relation to the sprocket. Now it works just fine. Or it will when I get it cabled up. I ended up putting the idler pulley further forward as I'd mentioned previously and that has worked out well too. I mounted the return chain management on the same bolt as the idler. Looking at it I think I could just put a second pulley on the bolt and run the return over it. If I had a second pulley.

Of course I couldn't wait so I locked the gears in small 28 ring front and the 19 sprocket on the back, rigged a temporary brake cable and went for a blast.

Not much speed in that gear maybe 15 kph pedalling like mad but it was a blast doing the 3 km run around our block..

I haven't made the elbow protectors yet. Yes they are needed. I got caught a couple of times.

Now, when I finish my coffee, I'm off to the shed to do the cabling.

John Lewis

ggriffin924

10-17-2008, 09:48 AM

Congrats on the first powered ride, and pedaling like mad,, LOL. I've been riding mine a lot and I am wondering if I'll ever get to the point of not wanting to mess with the drive train. I hope to get my trigger shifters next week, so I can dump the old friction shifters. I find I change on the front chain ring, more often because I don't want to hunt for a gear on the rear. And I can see whats going on when I change the front. So hopefully indexed shifting will eliminate that. So now you've ridden it powered, you can see how to go uphills is it as fun as going down them???

-Griffin- :cool:

John Lewis

10-23-2008, 10:44 PM

WEll I think I've pretty much finished the Wolf. Just the painting to go and I want to make a flip stem to replace this one. I don't intend to paint until I have ridden a couple hundred kilometres Just to be sure all is well.

Now the problem is to pick a nice colour of paint.

Here is a shot of the complete machine in all its unpainted glory.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Complete.jpg

I moved the idler pulley and mounted the chain management down on the reiforcing piece.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Pulley-Loc.jpg

For some reason I needed to increase the length of the Deraileur support. I was able to use the piece left over from the chain management setup.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Derailer-mnt.jpg

I have a piece of aircon filter foam for the seat cushion. It still needs to be cut to size. Here it is held on the seat with elastic bands for the photo. It seems quite comfortable.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Cushion.jpg

I got a nice set of 7 speed Shimano Revoshift grip shifters. Unfortunately the ratio is wrong for the Shimano SIS deraileur. Oh well, They'll be good for another project.

We have thunderstorms around at the moment so I'm champing at the bit waiting to get out and ride.

THis project has taken way longer than expected.

John Lewis

SirJoey

10-24-2008, 06:06 AM

VERY nicely done, John! Congrats on an outstanding looking machine!
Great job on the cabling! Did you braze your braze-ons on, or did you manage to weld 'em?
Looks like you've resolved your chain management issues, too.

And that seat... oh my gosh, that seat! (...and I thought it was nice BEFORE!)

I can so relate to taking longer than expected. I'm closing in on the 11 months mark with mine... :eek:
Maybe I'll just slow down a bit more, so I can make it an even year! (NOT!)

http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/9206/signaturehalloweenvr0.jpg

ggriffin924

10-24-2008, 09:44 AM

John Lewis

10-25-2008, 12:36 AM

VERY nicely done, John! Congrats on an outstanding looking machine!
Great job on the cabling! Did you braze your braze-ons on, or did you manage to weld 'em?
(NOT!)

http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/9206/signaturehalloweenvr0.jpg

G'day Joey,

Thanks for the kind comments. I think the pics might look better than the real thing. The seat will look real good when I get that cushion trimmed to size and perhaps covered.

The cable stops and guides were silver soldered with high silver content rod. Its damn expensive these days.
I use one of those magnetic welding clamps with a bit of wire twisted to it and bent to shape. The clamp sticks to the frame and the wire end holds the stop in position. I flux it all and lay a 1/2" length of rod alongside. Apply gentle heat until the silver solder runs and its done.

Been called for lunch.

John Lewis

John Lewis

10-25-2008, 01:13 AM

I like the flip stem also, make getting in an out of the seat so much easier. I need to find a source for some of that aircon filter foam sounds like I could use it for the seat of the fox I'm building now.

I expect my next one is going to take a lot longer, than the first I want everything just right etc.... and I think that is going to take longer. I already know I want disc brakes on both of the front wheels.

-Griffin- :cool:

Check out any commercial airconditioning business. They should be able to help. I got mine from a plastics shop in town. Quite expensive. That little bit cost me about $40 AUD.

My disks on the Wolf aren't that effective. Maybe they need to bed in. I think I'm going to put both back brakes on a single lever and add a front caliper brake as well.

I read somewhere you can get one of the Shimano MTB disk hubs. Don't recall which one. There's enough meat to have it turned out and then a commercial ballrace fits in just fine. I'll post the reference if I can find it.

You can also buy disk hubs for trikes. The ones I have are Bitex brand and were given to me by The LoGo trike manufacturer because he'd changed from 32 to 36 hole hubs. Also gave me a set of rims and a 7 speed rear hub. They will be going into the Fox when I get around to building it. Might be worth checking out Bitex on the net. It's a Chinese Company I think.

John Lewis

greenevegiebeast

10-25-2008, 08:33 PM

John, I have a question. ARE YOU DONE YET????
or are you still about to start.

:D:eek:

John Lewis

10-26-2008, 01:47 AM

John, I have a question. ARE YOU DONE YET????
or are you still about to start.

:D:eek:

Yes GVB,

I reckon I'm about done, all but the paint. Just came back from a 30km shakedown ride. A few little tweeks needed but it rode really well. Low gear not low enough aand high not high enough. Might have to add a mid drive later.

I made a bad choice of thread title.:mad: Don't seem to be able to change it but I wanted to keep all my posts together as much as possible so kept this one going. :)

Just read in another forum a guy wanting to start and looking for bike plans. I told him to come on over here to AZ. If he can't find a bike to build here he's hard to please.

John Lewis

savarin

10-26-2008, 06:12 AM

I really envy you guys that can paint their creations.
I spend ages riding and getting everything working to my satisfaction then never want to strip it down again because I'm having too much fun riding it.
Then I start another machine, get to the same stage but loose interest in the previous bike because the new one is more fun.ARGHHHHHHHHHHH

SirJoey

10-26-2008, 06:22 AM

I reckon I'm about done, all but the paint.

Hmmm... maybe you should start a new thread & call it...

"About to paint!" :D

http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/9206/signaturehalloweenvr0.jpg

John Lewis

11-16-2008, 08:35 PM

Joey suggested a new thread "About to paint" but I think I'll finish it all up in this now misnamed thread.

Well I've put up about 200km on the trike with nothing of consequence happening. Hey, the welding held up so now it time to strip it down for the paint. Bummer. I'd like to just keep on riding but paint will pretty it up and stop the rust thats already starting.

I chose a red sparkling acrylic. It turned out to be more of a candy red than the bright red I'd hoped but it should look fine.

The only issues I had in the test rides were:

1) the setscrews in the brake disk collars and free wheel loosened. Once retightened they stayed that way so mabe I didn't tighten them right at first.

2) The bearing in the idler was inadequate and collapsed/ fell apart. I replaced it with a high quality bearing and no more hassle.

I need to provide for a fender elbow protector as I did sharpen the elbows. Fortunately I'm quick to learn so it only happened the once.:)

So far it seems a great ride. I might have to change my nice seat to something that holds me better in tight turns though as I had a tendency to slip sideways.

It rides a little heavier and slower than my other bents and I have to really work on hills. That was to be expected as it's heavier than them too. I am sort of considering some kind of mid drive to get a lower hill gear and a higher high. Not sure how to set it up but I have some old 3 speed gears here that might help.

John Lewis

SirJoey

11-17-2008, 07:04 AM

I need to provide for a fender elbow protector as I did sharpen the elbows. Fortunately I'm quick to learn so it only happened the once.

I decided to forego the elbow guards, but I'm a little slower learner than you, apparently.
I "burned" my elbows a few times before I learned, but I still like the trikes better without the guards.

Besides, zipping along with those tires only inches away from your arms, adds an element of excitement! :D

http://img356.imageshack.us/img356/2839/thanksgivingsigsmalllu5.jpg

Richie Rich

11-18-2008, 07:31 PM

I decided to forego the elbow guards, but I'm a little slower learner than you, apparently.
I "burned" my elbows a few times before I learned....Yeah, well, you know what they say, Joey....."No sense - No feeling". :eek:

---<<RR>>---
.

SirJoey

11-19-2008, 07:38 AM

Yeah, well, you know what they say, Joey....."No sense - No feeling". :eek:.

Better watch what you say, Richie. Santa is watching you! :eek:
"...he's EVERYWHERE, he's EVERYWHERE" - Ray Stevens

http://img356.imageshack.us/img356/2839/thanksgivingsigsmalllu5.jpg

Richie Rich

11-19-2008, 10:47 PM

[B][FONT="Comic Sans MS"][COLOR="Blue"]Better watch what you say, Richie. Santa is watching you! :eek:
That's OK, Joey. With the increased cost to heat my shack this Winter, I could use some coal in my stocking...!!!

---<<RR>>---

Radical Brad

11-20-2008, 12:56 PM

If all you wanted was coal, what would you get for being bad?

Being crazy, I ponder such things.

Brad

SirJoey

11-20-2008, 05:16 PM

If all you wanted was coal, what would you get for being bad? You DON'T wanna know! :eek:

http://img356.imageshack.us/img356/2839/thanksgivingsigsmalllu5.jpg

Radical Brad

11-20-2008, 06:02 PM

I would probably get a carbon fibre upright and some spandex shorts.... my own personal Hell.

Brad

greenevegiebeast

11-20-2008, 11:38 PM

I would probably get a carbon fibre upright and some spandex shorts.... my own personal Hell.

Brad

me I would be swiming in the ocean near some whalers wearing a blue and white overall.( think Im a big, very big, very very big guy)

SirJoey

11-21-2008, 07:49 AM

I would prolly be turned into an old man, stuck in a ridiculously hot climate :sweatdrop:,
& forced to work in an old school bus for a shop! Oh, wait... :rolleyes4:

http://img356.imageshack.us/img356/2839/thanksgivingsigsmalllu5.jpg

John Lewis

11-21-2008, 08:08 AM

me I would be swiming in the ocean near some whalers wearing a blue and white overall.( think Im a big, very big, very very big guy)

Maybe you'll get lucky and Sea Shepherd will happen along.:D:D

John Lewis

TheKid

11-21-2008, 02:15 PM

Okay. Now the title of this thread is correct again - About To Start.....Christmas.

greenevegiebeast

11-21-2008, 11:04 PM

greenevegiebeast

11-21-2008, 11:07 PM

Okay. Now the title of this thread is correct again - About To Start.....Christmas.

Do i have to DADDY:cry2:;)

John Lewis

12-17-2008, 06:59 AM

Well, "About to Start" is finally done and finished!

At long last the weather gods smiled and I got the painting all done and the wolf reassembled.

What a difference a coat of paint makes. Hey I didn't build that did I? :sunny:

Took it out for a run. Got quite a reaction past the local high school. Cant repeat. The language would make a marine blush but the intent was "WoW, Cool bike.

My retired bike shop owner, Greg ,that I used to wrench for saw me and pulled me over to beg a ride. Went to our Over 50 group Xmas barbecue today and everybody wanted a ride. One person even asked where I bought it.

Tomorrow I attend the local road cycling clubs Xmas breakfast to play my monkey organ. I'll be taking the wolf down so it will be interesting to see the reaction from these dyed in the wool wedgie riders.

Pictures to follow as soon as I get a chance.

I've no excuses left now so I have to start on the Cruiser that by better half wants me to build. :)

John Lewis

SirJoey

12-17-2008, 07:24 AM

Very kool, John! Congrats!
Wish I had a way of showing mine off. Hardly anyone ever sees any of mine,
cuz I live in the boonies.

Lookin' forward to those pics! :)

http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/539/christxsigsmalloq2.jpg

Richie Rich

12-18-2008, 12:06 AM

Well, "About to Start" is finally done and finished!

At long last the weather gods smiled and I got the painting all done and the wolf reassembled.

What a difference a coat of paint makes.John LewisGlad to hear you finally tied the ribbons on it...!!

OK, John...you know the rules here.....PICTURES...!!!

Looking forward to seeing it....

.....Richie....

Richie Rich

12-18-2008, 12:13 AM

....Wish I had a way of showing mine off. Hardly anyone ever sees any of mine,
cuz I live in the boonies.Same problem here, Joey. I can only ride up and down my street. Any further and I'm on a hilly, curvy 2-lane race track with no sidewalks. If the SUV's don't get ya, the 18-wheelers will.

So, in order to ride, I pack up a couple trikes in the van and travel to a bike path where it's safe. My Momma didn't raise no fool...!!

....Richie... :rolleyes4:
.

SirJoey

12-18-2008, 07:24 AM

I can only ride up and down my street. Any further and I'm on a hilly, curvy 2-lane race track with no sidewalks. If the SUV's don't get ya, the 18-wheelers will.
So, in order to ride, I pack up a couple trikes in the van and travel to a bike path where it's safe. Wow, that's a drag, Richie. In a way, you've got it worse than me then.
At least I have plenty of relatively traffic-free roads to ride, since it's all rural.
I just don't see many people, or have anyone to ride with, which REALLY sux! :(

http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/539/christxsigsmalloq2.jpg

jimFPU

12-18-2008, 07:59 AM

I just don't see many people, or have anyone to ride with, which REALLY sux! :(
This is why I had offspring!! They can't ride as far or as fast (yet) but we try and get out most every Saturday and do about 5 miles. They need bike computers so they can keep track of their own progress. They're constantly asking 'How far have we gone dad?'

Hopefully I'll be able to finish up the Fox soon, so we'll have 3 'bents out there.

John Lewis

01-10-2009, 10:52 PM

Well, I finally got to take some pictures of the finished creation.

Of course they're never really finished and extras get added.

I took the shots at the beach 29 deg C today. Thats 84 deg F. I thought it might cheer up all you lot in the colder climes. The view is out over a portion of King Georges Sound from where the ANZAC's left for war in 1915. There was a nice hotel and gallery museum here. It housed the car Genevieve from the film of the same name and some other cars from the movie. Indonesian interests bought it and demolished it about 18 months back and nothing has been done since.

Down on the beach called Middleton beach you see a kids surf lifesaving group training.

But you didn't want to know all that so....
Heres the Bike. :)

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Three-1.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Six.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Five.jpg

Another post for the rest.

John Lewis

John Lewis

01-10-2009, 10:56 PM

Here are the remaining pics.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/One-1.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Two-1.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/lew2au/Four-1.jpg

The bare patch behind the last shot is where the hotel and Galleria stood.

Enjoy.

John Lewis.

Odd Man Out

01-10-2009, 11:03 PM

Excellent job John!!!
Another Wolf's out of the den...
Btw what kind of reactions are you getting???

SirJoey

01-10-2009, 11:10 PM

Whoa! That's one sweet lookin' ride!

Flag, dual discs, luggage rack, hmmmm, where have I seen goodies like that before... ;)

...and of course, one of your awesome, trademark seats! :D

WTG, John, that is seriously nice! :punk:

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

rickairmed

01-10-2009, 11:14 PM

John thats a good looking Wolf and also nice warm :D pictures looks like you did a good job there I like it .

Rick

savarin

01-10-2009, 11:57 PM

wow, looks excellent.
Gee, we live in a nice place dont we?

John Lewis

01-11-2009, 03:20 AM

John thats a good looking Wolf and also nice warm :D pictures looks like you did a good job there I like it .

Rick

Thanks Rick. 33deg C 91.4 deg F at the moment 17.10 pm daylight saving time. Normally it would be 16.10 but they're trialling DST.

Yes Charles, I think we have some great country and fantastic beaches. A few hungry Noahs about though of the jaws variety at the moment.

I rode this morning before it got too hot. Saw your ride post yesterday. My wife has visited that locale but I've only ever been in Brisbane to a conference.

OMO. Varied responses. Kids think it's cool and ask for rides. Sometimes I agree if parents are present. Roadies turn up their noses. Then I wish I was powerful enough to smoke them. Always gets a smile and a "That looks comfortable" or similar from peds.

Every now and then someone wants to know where I bought it and what it cost. Guy today didn't want to believe I built it. I pointed him at AZ and the forum. He's a welder but didn't think he could build a bike. Just maybe I got another convert.

Hey, I nearly forgot forgot Sir Joey. Thanks for the kind comments. Yes I have swiped your rack idea. mines a quicky from some light angle aluminium and pop rivets. I'll do a better one when I decide what I want. Right now I worry someone will try to sit on it.:jester:

I've been thinking tailbox. Supposed to be good for some extra speed but we'll see.

John Lewis

SirJoey

01-11-2009, 07:33 AM

Yes I have swiped your rack idea...Hey, nothing original here. I swiped the idea from another wolf that was already in the gallery! :evilgrin:
I just placed mine lower, & made it specifically to fit 2 rack trunks perfectly, when placed end-to-end.

The round support tubes make an ideal place to mount tail lights, too!

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/8584/dsc035272yo8.jpg

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif

Dragon

01-11-2009, 07:50 PM

Now that is what I want to accomplish. Hi everyone ! Rick here. I have spent about a month now doing research on what I want to build. My son moved and "willed" me a wire feed welder. I have most tools I will need and Have collected about 22 sacrificial investments :scooter: from the local county dump sites. Is there a glossary of terms and abbreviations on this site ? I find myself stumped by some of your abbreviations, ie. "BB". How about a diagram with nomenclature... Let me know if I seek too much as I know I am "Grasshopper" here. :alien: This is my first time so be gentle...

rickairmed

01-11-2009, 08:02 PM

Welcome to the Krew Rick this should get you a decent start on part names such as BB= bottom bracket ( the part the crank and pedal assembly goes into.

http://www.chopzone.com/hacking.html

I know all of Brad and Kats Bike books have a full section devoted to this and I am pretty sure the link here is the same basic knowledge.

Rick

Dragon

01-11-2009, 08:09 PM

Thank You Sir !!! :)

SirJoey

01-11-2009, 08:24 PM

Hi Dragon! Welcome to the krew!

There's a lot of talent & experience in here, & most of the guys are more than willing to help in any way possible!

Just remember, all of us were once where you are now, so don't be shy about asking questions. We help EACH OTHER here! :D

Joining this forum is like joining the mob. Now that you're in, we won't let you out! Soon, you'll understand, Grasshopper! :jester:

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7131/sirjoeysigmedij1.gif