DIY Bike and Trike Plans



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Thread: Winnipeg velocar

  1. #21
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    Default Re: Winnipeg velocar

    I myself am contemplating a SOF shell made from Dacron and glued to 3/16 steel rods similar to your first pic showing a wire frame.
    It rains almost every day here in Washington but it isn't as COLD as Idaho

  2. #22
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    Default Re: Winnipeg velocar

    Thank you darnthedog. Reading about dacron makes it sound like a very good product for my use. One thing about canvas was I couldnt figure out was how to stretch it taut with all the uneven surfaces and curves. dacron and some heatnbond tape and an old iron may make that part relatively simple. Google found a company called aircraft spruce canada for the fabric. Michaels craft store sells a product called heatnbond tape which might be good around the edges to hold the fabric before ironing. Any thoughts on that will be appreciated. Once again, thanks.

  3. #23
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    Default Re: Winnipeg velocar

    Well I have ordered and received 6 yards of medium weight Dacron. Also included in that order was an iron made specifically for Dacron type projects. Reading about using the Dacron it is strongly reccommended to use an infared temp gun to calibrate the iron, a nice one was found on Amazon for $22. The front frame has been finished and painted, it according to my highly accurate bathroom scale weighs 16 lbs. Using the front derailleur mast and the top of the body just ahead of the windshield as mounting points a tube was built to lock the body in place when in the upright position. A piece of conduit with a frame tube that slides into the conduit works great. I had a seat clamp that fit and it works to hold the body up. When I have the time I will be cutting and fastening the coroplast to the frame

  4. #24
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    Default Re: Winnipeg velocar

    The project continues albiet slowly. i got hung up on the percieved problem of tape that will stick to coroplast and a glue that will bind to it since the Dacron will need to be glued in a few spots to hold it in place prior to be shrunk with the iron I got from an aircraft supply house. for the tape I finally went to Home Depot and picked up a roll of 3m Scoth heavy duty duct tape and a roll of Nathua snow and ice tape. Both seem to hold quite well and I think the snow and ice tape holds a bit better. For the issue of a bonding agent-read glue- I bought and tested JB plastic weld. First an ice pick was used to poke a lot of holes on 2 test scrap coro pieces. They were then smeared with the JB plastic weld and then many more holes on the top of the coro and a piece of Dacron pressed into the JB. In both cases the JB was pushed into the ice pick holes and it is holding exceptionally well. All of the solutions to these 2 problems I could find on the net seemed to involve very expensive chemicals and thats not happening. Coro is very slippery stuff. So far the front side panels have been cut and mounted along with the top panel and the right rear panel was cut out today as well. The nose so far is just a flat panel but I,m thinking a more rounded piece will be made. The coro has so far met my expectations, it bends quite nicely around the frame giving it a rounded shape. I've taken a couple pictures but it really needs all the panels constructed and in place so the zip ties can be applied properly. I will photo the steps as it proceeds. Then it will be taken off the work table and given a once over to ensure the lines are not too far out. This because of the way it was built, I tried to ensure all measurements were equal on both sides but am sure it will need a little readjustment. Once all the panels are done and tied together tape will be applied to all the seams. After that the Dacron will be applied, glued down and shrunk using the small iron

  5. #25
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    Default Re: Winnipeg velocar

    Why are you putting Dacron fabric over the coroplast unless I am missing something?
    Look at how a canoe is covered using Dacron (Skin On Frame) construction. No need for the coroplast
    It rains almost every day here in Washington but it isn't as COLD as Idaho

  6. #26

    Default Re: Winnipeg velocar

    Quote Originally Posted by MrIdaho View Post
    Why are you putting Dacron fabric over the coroplast unless I am missing something?
    Look at how a canoe is covered using Dacron (Skin On Frame) construction. No need for the coroplast
    See post #19
    What's Next?

  7. #27
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    Default Re: Winnipeg velocar

    Okay I'll try to answer why the Dacron over the coro for me. Initially the frame was to be covered with lightweight painters canvas and so I picked some up on a shopping trip in N Dak when I went there to buy a smaller diameter pulley. I knew the canvas stretched over the wire frame would not look "rounded" like the nice factory made velos, images found via google confirmed this. It gave what I would call a Zeppelin look. So lots of web surfing later and youtube videos coroplast velos caught my eye. Some were quite professional looking, others not so much. One thing noticeable is on some zip ties are used to hold the panels together and the seams are covered with tape. The nicer looking ones seem to favour bending the coro, this is a good way, it stiffens the panel. That still leaves a seam though. I decided to try the coroplast, at the start the intention was to just use say 3" or so wide strips of along the rod frame then I figured what the heck just make panels of the stuff. Now the frame is obviously narrow at the front, widening at the front wheels then tapers to the rear of the seat where it's just a little wider then my shoulders. Plus it is a bit narrower from bottom to the top, so lots of curves. The first 2 front panels of coro on the frame turned out better than expected, they held a nice curve that was pleasing to my eye. Then the top deck was fabricated, it's basically flat till the last few inches near the cockpit where it angles down a little. It's high enough to clear my feet and my knees but I thought a bit more clearance would be nice. Many of the "real velos" have raised portions on the top deck where the feet and knees reside IMHO this is to allow them to have a lower deck but still offer clearance. Plus it looks good, much the the front end of a Triumph GT6 I owned many years ago. So the top deck on mine got slots cut into it and an 1 1/2" raised piece with tapered sides around 30" long added. Next one of the rear panels behind the wheelwell was fabricated and it too curved nicely around the framework. Everything I've read about coro says it's hard to glue or tape because of it's properties. Hence the mechanical fasteners like zip ties or rivets. I,m goin with zip ties. One thing you should know about me is I,m not a perfectionist and lack the room or the patience to design a professional looking product. What's needed in my climate is something durable. The weather here goes from above 35C in summer to below 35C in winter. No hurricanes or earthquakes but we do get thunderstorms, strong winds, occasional tornados and some blizzards. As a result of the weather the roads are crappy, summer is rebuild and repair season. Now we get to why the Dacron over the coro. The metal rods are the bones, the coro provides some nice rounded skin . After the zip ties are used the seams are to be covered with tape, it,s holding up quite well in my garage but come the summer heat frankly I think it will loosen. So the Dacron will be used as wrap over the whole body. It gets glued in the valleys and along the undersides and once its ironed should be nice and mostly wrinkle free. I have a couple of test pieces of coro in the garage where I,m using JB plastic weld, first a bunch of small holes are punched into the coro then 2 pieces of it were pressed together and then on its topside same procedure with a small piece of Dacron. The JB squeezes into the holes acting like a rivet and it holds the Dacron nicely as well. Once thats all done it will be warmer weather and the garage doors can be opened and some paint applied. When the Warrior was built it took a couple months to get the shifters etc all sorted out and turn it into a nice reliable ride, the addition of a hub motor required a bit of extra bracing to the rear forks. No doubt this procedure will be similar

  8. #28
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    Apr 2017
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    Default Re: Winnipeg velocar

    After my somewhat lengthy prev thread I went out to the garage and added another panel plus put a few zip ties in prior to a trim job. Keep in mind the tailbox has not even been started yet

  9. #29

    Default Re: Winnipeg velocar

    Nice momentum in the process! Sounds as our wheater and road conditions are similar, interesting to see how your concept turns out.

    Another aspect that will be interesting to hear the evaluation is the acoustical properties. Will the dacron add-on create a more noise damping fairing?

    //h

  10. #30
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    Default Re: Winnipeg velocar

    Since the front part of the body is really taking shape now I've started thinking about the tailbox. Initially it was to completly cover the rear wheel which meant an access door would have been needed to make tire pressure checks easier. But this morning I saw pictures of a velomobile called an Orca. It's tailbox has a line starting behind the seat and angling upwards towards the back that leaves the rear axle and some of the wheel exposed. That style appeals to me, it would lower a bit of available cargo space compared to a complete cover but that's okay.

  11. #31
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    Default Re: Winnipeg velocar

    I have finished the panels on the front part of the body, the seams have been tied together with plastic zip ties and then taped over. The front wheels are now covered and the nose is now rounded. You will notice on the raised extensions on the deck that were added for a bit more toe and knee clearance the tape is missing on the front left. This was done to test a small portion using a hot glue gun, I got a 60 watt gun at Michaels craft store and used some Gorilla glue sticks. It seems to be holding but no decision yet on whether to remove the rest of the tape from the top of the deck. The tailbox has just been started, it's in the mock up stage at this time. Once the tailbox has been completed I will attempt the Dacron covering. The hope is the DACRON once ironed then painted will protect the coro and all the plastic bits plus the taped seams holding it all together. There will be many small bumps where the zip ties are and they will show on the finished product but i can live with that. The main goal of the metal frame was to make the coro bends nice and smooth, avoiding a zeppelin look and this has been achieved. When i stand back to check the lines of the body it can be seen that it is not perfectly symmetrical but to me it looks nice enough that I won't feel embarassed to ride around in it. Next year there may well be a Mark 2 model built using what has been learned from this one. For now though a couple months to finish the tailbox and add Dacron, lights, etc then a summer of actual use.

  12. #32

    Default Re: Winnipeg velocar

    Looks pretty good, bud! The lessons learned from this one will likely make your second one at least twice as good, too.
    K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
    Use it up, wear it out, make it do, or do without

  13. #33

    Default Re: Winnipeg velocar

    Nice work Hugh!

  14. #34
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    Apr 2017
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    Default Re: Winnipeg velocar

    Almost got the tailbox completed, it is just coroplast with 2 metal rods across the underside of its deck, one at the front and one at the rear. These are meant to prevent any sagging, the box otherwise is supported by the rack which is only about 4" wide. The box has 2 compartments, one on each side that are triangular in shape that will be the "panniers". I dont think any heavy items will be placed in them, maybe a spare tube, a few tools, etc. I will work on it over the next few days then post a picture. It turned out to be almost harder to design and build than the front body. Plastic ties and hot glue were used to tie it together.

  15. #35

    Default Re: Winnipeg velocar

    Whew. Sounds like a lot of work, thought, planning, thinking, fiddling, trying, failing, trying again. Makes me tired just thinking about it. Thanks for keeping us up to date with it because it's very interesting.

    I need a nap.
    K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
    Use it up, wear it out, make it do, or do without

  16. #36
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    Apr 2017
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    Default Re: Winnipeg velocar

    Naps are good OZ76. The weather here has been in the 30 below Celcius range for about 2 weeks so it was a good time to head out to the garage, fire up the woodstove and continue the build. We are having a reprieve weather wise right now for a few days and the temps have reached a balmy 6 below freezing so I've been heading out to a nearby provincial park to ride the fat bike in the snow on the singletrack trails. The good weather will fade in a couple days so then the break will be over.

  17. #37
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    Apr 2017
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    Default Re: Winnipeg velocar

    I finished the build of the tailbox today, it is ready to be covered in the Dacron. Wimped out a bit on the sloping section that goes from the headrest to the rear of the tail, I had hoped to curve it but instead it is made of 3 flat trangular pieces. Inside it is a battery box to hold the small 12 Volt battery and the tail end has 3 cutouts. A 4" round right at the back for the taillight and 2 small 3/4" round on each side at the back to hold the yellow penny sized signal lights. No tape was used on any tailbox seams, just a few plastic zip ties and hot glue. I use a propane torch to heat the tip of a flat screwdriver which is then pushed through the coroplast to make a nice zip tie sized hole. For the hot glue I've been using my pencil soldering iron to melt a series of small holes along the seams and then hot gluing using a 60 watt glue gun. It seems to work well but time will tell. I forgot my camera in the house and my being lazy coupled with a minus 30 temp meant a couple pics will be forthcoming tomorrow. I am a bit anxious about the Dacron since it's a new thing for me but hey I learn by doing. If it goes well the front main body just needs a few days worth of work before it too can be covered. One of the people in a group of recumbent riders I met this year has been taking his trike out on the Red River skating trail which is several km's long this year and he would like to organize a group ride. This is at an area called the Forks which is the junction of the Red and Assiniboine rivers so there is a possibilty the first skakedown ride with the body may be on ice.

  18. #38

    Default Re: Winnipeg velocar

    Thanks for the update!
    K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
    Use it up, wear it out, make it do, or do without

  19. #39
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    Default Re: Winnipeg velocar

    Heres 3 pictures of the completed tailbox. First shows it sideways to get an idea of the profile. 2nd shows the inside, you can see the small battery box box built for the 12V power source for the lights and the hole cutout for the big LED light at the rear and the 3rd shows the start of the Dacron. It was glued in stages, necessary because when the iron is used to shrink it you want the fabric to be tight to the surface,



    The next day I finished cutting the Dacron to fit the tailbox and used the small iron purchased from Aircraft Spruce to shrink the fabric and take the wrinkles out. The iron has a range of approx 250 degrees F to 430. I used the lower setting for the first pass. You can actually see the fabric tightening up when the iron is left in one spot for a few seconds. The 2nd pass was done on the higher setting. It works well, one thing noticed was if left on the fabric too long the heat causes the coro between its ribs to shrink a little bit as well and this gives a minor scalloped effect on the cor under the dacron. Not a real serious problem and easy to avoid.
    Last edited by Hugh; 01-16-2018 at 11:18 AM. Reason: spelling error

  20. #40

    Default Re: Winnipeg velocar

    Very, very interesting and cool way to build your machine.
    K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
    Use it up, wear it out, make it do, or do without

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