Ed's 'StreetRunner' Quad Build

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That does sound perfect.
Are you going to add some flickering red LEDs in the ends of the pipes for that night time spark show?
Brad
Actually with the right equipment and wiring it could actually be possible.
Or maybe some underneath lighting, which seems to be a trend out here in California.

Here's a thought for sound effects.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1421595-REG/ion_audio_pro_glow_with_10_woofer_pro_glow_pa_speaker.html/?ap=y&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInq3it7v54QIVlLfsCh29bQpeEAkYECABEgIaRfD_BwE&lsft=BI:514&smp=Y

Or maybe use something like this with an appropriate speaker ?????
https://www.ebay.com/i/263614010281?chn=ps

This part of the project, being strictly for fun and show, and seldom used, it doesn't warrant spending a lot of cash on it.

Or a Molotov cocktail rag?
Great idea...but it can only be used once. The PVC pipe would melt.

Oh FYI...this has ceased being a 'pedal car'. To heavy. Its going all electric.
A final decision, as to what type, size, or battery, etc. will be determined once it gets closer to its final weight.
Based on the weight of my PVC car, I quesstimate the final car weight will be +/- 150-175 lbs (+/- 500 lbs with two riders)
I believe the last weight check with the car at this stage, minus the wood cowl, and windshield frame, was around 85 lbs.

Master of illusion. No doubt you are going to stump the best of them.
I look forward to the fun of being at my first local car show, and standing back,
(as an observer) while people look, (and make comment) about what they are looking at.
 
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Decisions.. :unsure: Decisions.. :unsure: Decisions..:unsure:

I'm in yet another design block..That is, just how to, and where to, make the cowl support.
Front of the cowl? Back of the cowl?



You may wonder what and why the rods from the windshield.
Well at the high velocity of winds.....(never mind you won't believe that anyway..:devilish:)

Actually, they do serve a purpose on a real car.
They help with reducing windshield vibration at freeway speeds.
They also provide support when there is no top support braces.



Also playing around with different methods, for the flooring.

:unsure: Hmmmm...Should I place the flooring material on top of the frame? (like everyone else)
OR ........ put the flooring under the frame ? Different !
Also helps with driver/passenger foot placement/comfort.
OR ........ should I use expanded metal, to help with weight...and just to be different?

 
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How about a mesh floor welded to the underside of the frame.
It would be a crime to just cover up any of this amazing work!

Brad
I'm seriously thinking of doing that. I have some old expanded metal from my trailer, that I could use for mock up.

I have in my mind to leave the frame exposed. But I want it to look like it was designed that way.
 
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This is what I'm considering at this point.

Attaching mesh/expanded metal underneath the frame.
Probably won't weld it on though, just in case there is a need to get into that area in the future.

Red is frame
Dark red is for the mesh supports on the sides.
Light grey area is mesh/expanded metal
Dark grey lines are outer mesh edging. Maybe tubular.
Tan is wood seat base

 
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Just a mock up idea for mounting the cowl to the frame.
I'm using the same profile as the radiator shell.

After this is done, there will be a transmission cover, connecting the engine to the cowl.
I'm on the look out for a tapered metal bucket, cut in half, for this idea.
Plus a tube under the distributor, simulating the drive shaft of the distributor.



What it might look like painted, with the 'engine turned' swirling metal front.

 
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Haven't really liked the previous design for the front of the cowl.

Found this style for not only the front, but for the instrument panel as well.
The current thinking is the braces, will be hiddened inside the front part of the cowl.
The front panel will be a darker stain than the main board.
And (maybe) an 'engine turned' front panel on top of that.




Thinking of using as a minimum, a clock for the center, and a thermometer and voltmeter on the sides.
Looking to use vintage analog style gauges.

 
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There has been way to much wind, to do any welding or cutting, out in the open, or even in the lean to.
Supposed to be the same for the remainder of this week.
Expecting steady daily winds of 25-30 mph, with gusts of 55-65 mph.

So I've been brain storming (designing), things.

I need to start thinking about attaching various components to the frame. Not always do I want to weld everything to the frame.
There will be a time in the future, when most of everything will have to be broken down, for prep and paint.

So today I sent away for some 'rivnuts', in 5 different sizes, just to get started.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/123756348043
Should be here by Thursday. The first place I need to use them, is the support rods from the windshield down to the frame.

****

Also came up with how I will attach the faux 'magneto'.
Also found some online photos of how the wires are supposed to be attached. Some authenticity ?

Below link shows what I'm trying for, although the magneto is in the front in this example.

I think I'll start looking for an inexpensive set of spark plug wires, and gather a set of discarded spark plugs.

***

Finally, I stumbled across this yesterday. It may be what I need for the sound effects part of this build.
Not sure if it will work, or just how to use it, as I don't have a real engine.

But it's a pretty cool app, in any case.
Click on it to start it. The good part starts at 0.22 seconds

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.twoxlgames.xlr8
 
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some CAT5 computer cable would work and easier to bend tighter.
I like the sound effects.
 
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some CAT5 computer cable would work and easier to bend tighter.
I like the sound effects.
Coaxial cable might be a suitable and far cheaper item that will pass for plug leads.
Good ideas both.

I have a bunch of coax, that would work.
I will be using real spark plugs, so the ends need to be able to clip on, in the same manner as the real thing.
You don't happen to know what the spark plug thread size, would be ???? I want to be able to put a nut on them, to hold them in place.
 
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Severe Weather Alerts - Apple Valley , CA
Wind Advisory

* Winds...West to northwest winds 20 to 30 mph, with gusts to 55
mph in wind prone areas. Isolated gusts to 70 mph.


I think one of those ' 70 mph ' just came through. Dust and sand everywhere.
But the wind did blow in my new 'rivnuts', 2 days early...wha whoooo!

Still working on 'design' things'. The original 3 carb 'log manifold', worked great for the PVC car,
but when placed on top of the faux engine, I noticed there wasn't really a proper 4 port path to the heads.

So a new design was in order.
After looking at hundreds of engine images, and thinking about how I could replicate some of the real world look, I'm at this point for now.

Old Look (With only 2 ports to the heads)


New Look (mockup) (4 ports to the heads)


3 Carb Look


Different perspective (Only had enough parts for one side)




J B Weld a stud to the bottom of my paint can magneto.
Stud to be used to attach to back of engine block.
 
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maybe a supercharger would look "meaner"
could use for battery storage or??
 
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maybe a supercharger would look "meaner"
could use for battery storage or??
A good thought for maybe a future mod.

I have had the brain working overtime on this carb/manifold re-design.

4 carbs...3 carbs....high rise......low rise....big tubes......small tubes.......so many thoughts.

This is where I'm at, at this moment in time.

The 4 carb idea, was ok, but thought there was getting to be, to much of a good thing, so opted to remain with the 3 carb setup.
Besides it's already near complete, so only this modification to meet the new requirement.

That required cutting off the bottom two tubes, to make room for what will become the base for, 4 new tubes.
The new base (top plate) comes from a piece of 1/4" plexiglass, I've been hanging on to for ? .....well ever !.

This photo shows a mock up of the new pieces and how they will mate to each other.


Where the 'clear' plexiglass top plate, meets the bottom of the round main tube, will be filled in, and contoured.



The bottom 45 degree tubes, where they meet the underside, of the top plate, will also be filled in, and contoured.

The idea is that when all done, the manifold will look like one piece of metal.



I've made a lot of extra work for myself.
But it will be worth it in the end, and hopefully the end result will show the effort.

One last thing for today.

Mounted the 'magneto' to the engine. With a slight offset just as the real thing would be.



I'm on the lookout for some freebie plugs and wires, but will buy a cheap set of new ones if I need to.
May go out to our local 'pick&pull' auto wreck salvage yard and get a set. But no hurry on that.
 
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Think :unsure:..Make...Think 🤔 Again... Make Again

After much conflicting thought about the previous posts idea, I abandoned it, in favor of my original version.

Using the same three carb look, but with a new (and better) way of attaching the 45 degree tubes.


Two done four to go.


Trial fit..looking OK


I'm much more relaxed with this version. It is much closer to what the original idea was supposed to be.


All that remains, is to make another set, jig them up, and glue/screw everything together.
Final filling/sanding/painting later.
 
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one minor issue--six fuel injectors on an eight cylinder engine.
It would be easier maybe to cobble two four barrel carbs on top of a tunnel ram manifold.
A super charger is still my choice.
 
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