Ed's 'StreetRunner' Quad Build

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Sep 12, 2012
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Apple Valley, California, USA
Here's the latest wiring version. I've added ring terminals and rearranged where the wires go. Mainly due to the slot sizes.

Did away with the bulky jumper, and made buss bars instead. They are the same metal thickness, as the ring terminals.
It really made it much easier to button everything down.



Next is to cut out a sheet metal bottom, and secure all the components.

But before I screw everything down, I would like to get a converter.
Size does matter, and in this case , this unit looks to be right, for what I think I need.

I won't be intentionally driving this at night, so if the lights are a shade dim,
not a problem, as long as they are on, and blink when asked to.

Basically, head, tail, turn, and brake lights. Enough amps to push a sound system for the engine audio.
Can't think of anything else. So the below unit is what I'm considering.

I'm ready to buy, if it seems the right unit.....what say you?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S8H5JMR/re ... UTF8&psc=1
 
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Doesn't one motor need to run in the opposite direction to the other or else it will go round in tight circles like a tank?
 
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Brushless motor can be reversed by swapping over two of three motor wires.
Yes indeed, but was warning just in case it had not occurred to Ed' (although I am sure it had).
 
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Doesn't one motor need to run in the opposite direction to the other or else it will go round in tight circles like a tank?
Thanks for the heads up.

Sometimes I don't know if I'm coming or going, with this project, so with the motors going opposite directions, I'm covered. :LOL:

Seriously though, it did indeed occur to me. Look at the last photo, at the terminal block for the 'driver side'. The blue and green wires have been swapped, as have been the 'hall' wires.

I'm actually learning a 'few' things. 🤓
 
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'Belly Pan'?



Now it's wait for an converter to get here.
I need to make sure it will all fit into the same space, before screwing anything down.

I got mine for $22.99, with free shipping.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-Golf-Cart-RV-Voltage-Reducer-36V-48V-Step-Down-Reduce-to-12V-240-Watt-20-Amp/223540427098?_trkparms=aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=225074&meid=6026ab3691294994b1823aa4f7181c4c&pid=100290&rk=1&rkt=4&sd=223540427098&itm=223540427098&pmt=1&noa=1&pg=2060778&_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507



So things are moving along nicely. all the drive components are in.
Soon there will be a function test.

 
Last edited:
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I'm working on a diagram for the accessories, lights, horn, audio etc.

This first diagram is basic as I understand the instructions below.


I'm a bit confused on the switch connection.
Won't I need to use a terminal block, to connect all the various accessories.
Something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076BR7RSH/re ... 0cnVl&th=1

Should the thin red line (?) go between the terminal block, (positive) and the converter?
I plan on using a separate toggle switch, (for each of the accessories) in place of a key switch.
The diagram below only shows head and tail lights as an illustration.


EDIT UPDATE. (Bypassing the key switch and using toggle switches)
Hard to read, but I wanted to stay with the wire colors, from the converter.
Need to wire so the 'key switch' from the controller sends power to all systems
 
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Tidying Up

Had to replenish my stores of electrical bits and pieces.
Had a HF 30% off, so made a dash down there and stocked up.
Even bought a new crimper/stripper. My old one must be at least 40 years old.



Put to use some grommets and cable clamps. I like to keep as much tidy as can be.




Found out there is just enough room between the battery and the 'fire wall', for the converter and terminal blocks.
Just need to buy some more terminal blocks. I'm thinking, I will order these;

I will need to buy about 6' of 8 AWG, to make a cable from the control terminal blocks, forward to the converter terminal block.
Still more finish welding to be done.

 
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I'm also confused about the "thin red wire" part of the instructions and it is always difficult to diagnose from afar. Instructions 4.5.1 to 4.5.3 are about connecting the key switch. There is no indication as to what the key switch does or where it fits into the overall scheme of things. Should 4.5.3 read the "switch terminal", the "switched terminal", or the "non-switched" terminal. Only one is correct. In any case, which one does 4.5.3 cover? I don't know.

Having said all that, reading further indicates that the purpose of the key switch may simply be to "merge" the thin red wire with the thick red wire.

A terminal block only provides for connecting wires at a single place, e.g, connecting feeds from a single point to many other points. A fuse box could also be used. Other than a terminal block, connections can be made with plugs and sockets elsewhere as required. Usually, no matter what you plan, it will end up being planned. Fuses could be a saviour.
 
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It's been kind of cool and windy, of late, so little has been done.

I have been looking and learning, about what fuse blocks are out there, and relay's as well.
They look to be what is needed.

Something like this.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Way-12V-24V-Car-Power-Distribution-Blade-Fuse-Holder-Box-Block-Panel-w-Fuses/293127925644?_trkparms=aid=555018&algo=PL.SIM&ao=2&asc=225074&meid=a0929816d7684f6381fe0b282070b9a7&pid=100677&rk=1&rkt=30&mehot=pp&sd=333238901117&itm=293127925644&pmt=1&noa=0&pg=2386202&algv=SimplAMLv5PairwiseWeb&_trksid=p2386202.c100677.m4598

Or maybe like this...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/6PCS-12V-4-Pin-For-Bosch-Car-Relay-Switch-Harness-Set-30AMP-Fuse-16AWG-Hot-Wire/293174803763?hash=item4442947d33:g:elwAAOSw8EhdQ8iv

AND! If not to make it more confusing, this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Gang-Green-ON-OFF-Toggle-Switch-Panel-2USB-12V-Car-Boat-Marine-RV-Truck-Camper/223140894014?_trkparms=aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=225074&meid=be64d37312b24409ae26e0f1710eb424&pid=100667&rk=7&rkt=8&mehot=pp&sd=113751349135&itm=223140894014&pmt=1&noa=1&pg=2334524&_trksid=p2334524.c100667.m2042

I won't try to show the progress, (or lack of) on another schematic.
I get a little o_O just trying to put the lines in.

After this post, I'm going looking for info on 'how many', (if any), relay's I should use, and how to determine that.

I got the wire for the power leads from the controllers, to the converter.
Had to settle for #10 awg wire, which I'm sure will be quite satisfactory. It's only 3.5 feet long.
Terminal ends for #8 awg , at my local H.I.S, were over $7.00 USD, and I needed 4.....NOT happening!

I hope to have a clear schematic up soon, for feedback.
 
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I'm also confused about the "thin red wire" part of the instructions and it is always difficult to diagnose from afar. Instructions 4.5.1 to 4.5.3 are about connecting the key switch. There is no indication as to what the key switch does or where it fits into the overall scheme of things. Should 4.5.3 read the "switch terminal", the "switched terminal", or the "non-switched" terminal. Only one is correct. In any case, which one does 4.5.3 cover? I don't know.

Having said all that, reading further indicates that the purpose of the key switch may simply be to "merge" the thin red wire with the thick red wire.

A terminal block only provides for connecting wires at a single place, e.g, connecting feeds from a single point to many other points. A fuse box could also be used. Other than a terminal block, connections can be made with plugs and sockets elsewhere as required. Usually, no matter what you plan, it will end up being planned. Fuses could be a saviour.
I found a video today explaining all about relay's, and the wiring example, made it pretty clear how to wire in a switch with a relay.

 
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Relays are generally used to provide heavier current switching. The controlling switch supplies current to the relay coil, causing the relay contacts to change. In this way, heavier contacts etc., that will handle the heavier switched current, do the job without shortening the life of the switch. To put things in a different way, not needed for light current duty that is within the switch rating.
 
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I've put in the hours, and worked my brain cells, to the max.

This is what I have come up with, just for the accessories.
Not all lights/accessories drawn in, for clarity.
Obviously I'm hoping that it is correct, but if not, more to learn.




Added for reference
Converter Wiring Instructions


5-gang switch schematic (one switch)
 
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It's taken a while but, with determination, and help, I believe I have the final version.
This is just the 12 volt accessory side.
Got it slimmed down, with only necessary components.
I'll have to look at my wiring harnesses, to see if they are even usable.



I've ordered my components.

Terminal Blocks


Battery Capacity - Voltage Meter - 0-179℉ Temperature Monitor


5-Gang Switch Panel
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Green-LED-5-Gang-ON-OFF-Toggle-Switch-Panel-2-USB-12V-Car-Boat-Marine-RV-Truck/223170855888?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144
 

SirJoey

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My cozy little nook in the corner!
Complicated wiring... not my idea of a fun day at the park.... :unsure:
But then, I'm not an "electrical guy" at all.
***
 

Radical Brad

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Wiring diagram looks good!
Just one thought on the volt indicator unit....

If you are using this to display the status of the main battery bank, then it may not work as intended.
Since you are measuring 12v from the step-down inverter, it will always show 12v, even with your bank highly depleted.

Think of it like this...

I can only lift 200 pounds flat out. I would consider myself tired if I could only lift 150 pounds.
But give me a 4x lever (48v to 12v), and even tired, I could still lift 600 pounds.

See where I am going with that?
Your full bank should show almost 51 volts when healthy, but the 12v side will easily show full output even fed with 40 volts (completely dead bank).

Brad
 
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