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Probably through being fat if I'm being honest. They were on the mk1 tilter at the wheels similar to being used as a kingpin pivot. I used high grade m12 male on the mk3 and they're fine.

I've bent male M10 rod ends in similar positions. They bent alarmingly easily too. I always try to work things to have female rod ends where I can. For the probable upcoming 4ws quad I've located some extra strong M12 units as I had to use male ones.

The 380 is going to add some lard over an igh.

I'd expect that fork to cope too. Same as Hugh, it looks excellent too.

Good point there Hugh. Front hub motors will rip apart an alloy fork as they use the axle to rotate against. Alloy won't take that abuse.

As the main gear is driven the two nearest gears circle each other with the middle one stationary and the outer one orbiting because of the pin through it. That outer cog turns as it orbits which drives the rear gear on the other side which drives the one attached to the axle via the small...

I doubt that the trike axle above would have a long life pulling an adult. A front hub motor is a much better idea. You can then build any type of axle arrangement you want at the rear. It will be easy to get all three wheels suspended if desired. As stated the batteries above are no good...

I doubt a bolted ally frame would be lighter than a welded steel one. Bolts are heavy compared to weld. Also the design of a recumbent means members are used as beams which doesn't suit aluminium so you use more aluminium to overcome it's shortfall.

What is the intended use of what you are building as that will largely determine if the parts are adequate.

I've not owned one but have seen a few which I could only describe as a child's toy. Do you have a link to the ones you are considering?

Looks like it will work if what's left of the tyre stays on the wheels. Given the tyre is flat but is going to be asked to ride on it's edge to some extent that may want to push it about.

Charlie had to use a bus gearbox between the engine and regular box to ratio up the revs.

I remember it from the 70s. Merlin sounds better than Meteor though. The Meteor was the same basic engine as the Merlin but minus the supercharger and saw use in tanks which is what this is. There's also Charlie Broomfield's SD1 Meteor engined beast. Though if you want the best engine sound I...

You have no monopoly on that unfortunately.

First obvious question but why not pull the kingpin away from the wheel and just weld a slightly longer axle mounting tube on? Second obvious question what is wrong with the previous idea of a Kart type "C" bracket?

Why? To pass a fork through the headtube it has to go through the inner tube or there's nowhere for the headset bearings to run against. I doubt most forks would do that. To weld the headtube arrangement to the side of a fork you will be welding the inner to the fork and the outer to the chassis...

Looks good.

That will certainly work. Essentially what a go kart has.

Just drop the arms down at an angle from the top axle mount to where you need them.

I've seen them that way round before but most of the systems that way have gone to a simple bushing rather than a bearing headset. As you say the locknut system isn't great on a headset and in that configuration the main bearing is resting on that nut system. Going to a plain bushing allows a...