Another FWD Delta trike.

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Not overly dissimilar to your top drawing. Could easily have the drive taken to the front via a pulley.
Thats a Ran's Tizzard IMHO the only commercial delta every sold that could be considered on par with a average tadpole due to very low seat [ for a delta ] .

There is a video of 2 racing indoors around a industrial unit and one tips and dumps the driver , my Python with a similar seat height can raise 1 wheel at speeds under 8mph , this puzzled me for a while ? they have poor cornering ability compared to a tadpole ?

Well NO actually it is because they can turn so tightly almost in there own length , if a tadpole could do the same turns it would also be on 2 wheels.

Please do not open the can of worms labelled ' tadpoles are safer than deltas ' we are tired of eating worms !

Paul
 
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Please do not open the can of worms labelled ' tadpoles are safer than deltas '
Paul
Isn't that what you've just done by emphatically stating "NO"? It's not sporting to open the can then jam the lid back on before others get their mitts into it.;)

Just because a machine is designed so it can go fast and it can turn a lot doesn't mean it can or should do both together. If you race a taddy and a delta around the same tight turn at ever increasing speeds I don't need to actually see the results to know the outcome.
 
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Ok then.... back to the subject matter.
Today I got to play with the metal-glue gun again (always fun). I converted the tacks holding the axle mounting plates onto the axle cross-beam into full welds.
Some came out better than others, but all are perfectly serviceable. Fillet joints where 10mm thick metal joins 1.5mm tube are always a little tricky (I find), but a total weld seam length of 6" for each plate meant these fillets did not need to be 100% perfect. The plates are never going to fall off. I totally failed to win the prize for "least amount of filler used" but I believe that prize is a broken shoulder, so I don't want it anyway.







Interestingly, the fillet welds caused a bend in the 10mm plate which will produce a camber effect. If its too much or just awfull, dummy welds on the opposite face will be used to try and pull it back straight.

 
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Wow bending 10mm plate when cooling is surprising , 3mm doesn't stand a chance then :)

How you plan on attaching the back plate locking bolt ?
 
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Wow bending 10mm plate when cooling is surprising , 3mm doesn't stand a chance then :)

How you plan on attaching the back plate locking bolt ?
With a small section of tube bridging the gap between the backplate bracket and the plate and a bolt into either a tapped blind hole or tapped all the way through with a locknut on the other side.
M6 or M8 (Jury is out) I usually use M6 into a blind tapped hole with a starlock washer on the face of the backplate. Has not come undone or failed ever.
 
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Nothing is perfect. There is only +/- tolerances and it all depends on the measuring stick. If it is not up to the mark, adjust the tolerances to where it will fit within.

Sometimes my cutoff saw was seen to produce a less-than-square cutoff. I have only used an abrasive disc (around 300mm or so) and, after the annoyance exceeded my acceptance, I looked into it and discovered that the more pressure I put on it when cutting, the more it ran out - vertically. Just need to be aware of it if relying on butt joints. Have had a few "Why is it so?" moments though.
 
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Today's "metal-glue" fun was the full welding of the keel to the rear axle beam (X-Beam, whatever) and the reinforcing of this connection with gussets.

It came out just fine, but my tig-torch has broken, so I shall need a new one or a repair.
Automatic toe-in has been provided courtesy of the shrinkage on the cooled welds.


Onwards & upwards. Tally-Ho!
 
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Yikes more weld distortion.

Mine have never distorted !

Possibly not true ;) I have never checked it to see if it has :D

You could have clamped a length of steel where you held the ruler , do you think that could have helped control this ?

What do you mean ' brike my torch ' they are expensive and it will be docked from your wages my boy !

Paul
 
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Yikes more weld distortion.

Mine have never distorted !

Possibly not true ;) I have never checked it to see if it has :D

You could have clamped a length of steel where you held the ruler , do you think that could have helped control this ?

What do you mean ' brike my torch ' they are expensive and it will be docked from your wages my boy !

Paul
My WP9 torch has had a flexi-neck and after a few too many flexes it has snapped inside and is now nodding like a porcelain dog on the back window shelf of yr Dad's Austin Cambridge. ;)
It fires up and can weld but it is so wobbly it dips into the pool now and then.
I went online to the Weldequip site and found a replacement WP-9 flexi-neck for c. £20. So I shall try and repair it myself. Updates on this exciting news as and when.
 
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My WP9 torch has had a flexi-neck and after a few too many flexes it has snapped inside and is now nodding like a porcelain dog on the back window shelf of yr Dad's Austin Cambridge. ;)
It fires up and can weld but it is so wobbly it dips into the pool now and then.
I went online to the Weldequip site and found a replacement WP-9 flexi-neck for c. £20. So I shall try and repair it myself. Updates on this exciting news as and when.
Sorry I thought that had been fixed ages ago when first reported ?

I suppose I ought to splash some cash and get a WP9 instead of my WP17 ? however I was confused by the plugs and their descriptions ?

IIRC my machine does not have the seven pin plug as it is not capable of using a pedal ?
 
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IIRC my machine does not have the seven pin plug as it is not capable of using a pedal ?
THAT, is a real shame right there. I don't think I could manage without the pedal. Although sometimes operating a pedal can be difficult if you are on the floor.
Mind you, I do have the option to go pedal-free too, I just have never tried it. It would be like manually changing gear all the time when you have an auto. :)
I do have the next size up torch too, its just a bit heavy for this type of work.
 
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Can't do too much today because I am knee-deep in ruddy ankle-biters. :mad:

I did manage to sneak off and pop a hole in a bit of tube for a headset tube to sit in.
Because of the appalling run-out on my pillar-drill I drilled it 1mm smaller and then filed it out to fit.
After a lot of grunting and heaving I finally managed to push it all the way into both holes :eek:, gosh they were nice and tight no "slop" at all, so drilling smaller and reaming out was a good approach. :p


I am a bit worried that the residual braze on the headset tube will prevent the tig-welding process so I may have to polish it off with some emery cloth.
 
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Catching me up piece by piece ....

Can I see someone buying ' virgin ' head tubes in the near future ?
 
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Can I see someone buying ' virgin ' head tubes in the near future ?
More likely to buy lengths of the right sized tubing TBH. I might actually have some here, I will check. ;)
 
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Don't forget there is a chamfer on the inside ends ?
 
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Today's sad efforts were expended to make a BB shell clamp for the main keel.
It is best to draw a charitable veil over the proceedings really.
It got made but it is "fugly" although very robust. That is all.
 
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I went online to the Weldequip site and found a replacement WP-9 flexi-neck for c. £20. So I shall try and repair it myself. Updates on this exciting news as and when.
Next time, if ever, contact me, I could get you the neck for nearly half the price. Replacing the neck, as easy as, screw of, screw on.
 
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