Another FWD Delta trike.

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Thanks for this offer. I did buy a chinese replacement some time ago and it is indeed just a head with non-flexible neck and a bsp fitting. But I bailed on putting it in/on my WP-9.
If the official WP-9 replacement rocks up and looks exactly the same as the £7.99 Chinese clone then I will know for next time. ;)
 
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Went out earlier today and when I returned the Tig-Torch flexi-neck had arrived.
Not a totally straight swap-over as the original is manufactured with a HUGE ribbed bung on it that the outer clam-shell case grips.
I cut through that and put it on the new one and all done. In comparison to the internals of the £7.99 (non-flexi-neck) Chinese replacement I bought earlier it is exactly the same in dimensions.
Glad to have a non-wobbly flexi-neck.

If you didn't know what was in a flexi-neck then this is the old/broken one disected.
 
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I gave the repaired torch a test fire today. Worked just fine (of course). I put it away and got on with part making.
I bisected a 4" section of 1" tube to make a lower seat mount but then got called away to help on my son's new house before I could mount it in a suitable piece of steel to fix to the keel.
 
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Today was one of those jobs I detest. Fillet welding round tube.
I got it done, but it isn't wonderful. I may do some "touch-up" work later when my nerve returns. ;)
 
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This is what it might look like when the front wheel & main-frame are somehow connected.
It is about the same overall length as the Tadpole (190cms.) the space saving in terms of length occurs because the rider is able to sit between the two rear wheels I guess.
To my eyes it still looks a monster. :D
 
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Today was one of those jobs I detest. Fillet welding round tube.
I got it done, but it isn't wonderful. I may do some "touch-up" work later when my nerve returns. ;)
Looks good I can see some ' dimes ' ;)👍
 
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I carried on with making my seat mount.
Oh dear lord I don't want to make another one of these ever again.
The half-pipe has to be set into the oblong tube, the oblong tube will be clamped to the main keel until I establish its permanent position then the oblong tube will get welded onto the keel.


It was going reasonably ok, until disaster in the final section. But dash it all, it will do.

 
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Can't see what you have done ? what does the underside look like ?

I would have though it is easier to weld a fully round piece of tubing to a piece of square or oblong first , then slit it in half ?

Ooops looks like I did mine like you have yours ?

 
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No way does the underside ever get shown on any forum ;)
 
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My movable bottom-bracket went horribly wrong with some inadvertent placement of weld-metal.
It was then impossible to get the cups to screw in.

Following advice received from Paul (Stormbird) I ground the blob of weld (and the threads around it) off with a dremel-type stone and managed to get it to function once again.
I fitted an old-school axle, bearings etc. rather than a cartridge.
 
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I have not been able to do much of anything on the trike-building front as I have been engaged in another kind of building works.
But today I cut myself a section of recently-arrived 38mm tube to act as the sleeve and a threadless BB-Shell.
The insert is a 2-piece "bobbin" with an M12 centre-hole.
The cassette cluster is a home-made selection of gears and spacers all bolted-through.
The 9-splined carrier for the cluster is from a dismantled shimano rear wheel hub and was turned out inside by John Price to accept two 28x12x8 bearings and spacers.

Here it is test-inserted into a piece of 38 x 38 mm tube with the hole cut just past the centre point of the 38mm section.

 
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That's a very unusual set of gears. I'll be interested to see them shift.
The assembly (as shown) was used on my last trike as an intermediate gearbox mounted in the BB shell of the rear triangle. the 3 inner sprockets were covered by an MTB front mech and shifting was fine.
The larger outer sprocket was used as the input from a captive loop of chain chain from the front chainring. I all worked, but I abandoned it as it seemed to me to be injecting more complexity than usefulness in that scenario.
In this instance it may help with respect to the twisted chain FWD, and so be worth it. I hope ;)
 
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Managed to grab some time to myself instead of grand-kid watching or house modifying.

I set the head-tube & wheel up and sought a good place to fit the twisted-chain BB-Shell.


I checked for alignment with the sprocket on the hub (hoping to prevent torque-steer).


I cut a hole through the frame tube to accept the BB assembly.


I have welded it in place on the exposed long seam (so If I need to change it there is only one cut to make, but it will be strong enough for testing).
 
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I am sorry to report that the trike parts shown above have all been recovered and the frame (such as it was) cut up.
More thought is needed before I can safely make a 24" wheeled Delta-trike.
 
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Sorry to hear that Danny. What area(s) were you unhappy with?
Cheers! :)
I have no room for it (storage-wise) in my little workshop at the front of the house, and so I need to make it capable of being wheeled into the back garden where I have at least got some storage sheds..
Access is restricted to 26"-28" side path and as it (the trike) was constructed it was more like a ruddy Roman chariot on Stephenson's gauge track.
Traditional RWD delta is out of the equation due to width limits.
Width restrictions can be overcome by making it a tilter, but that certainly makes RWD doubly challenging (so that's not somewhere I want to go) and FWD is proving tricky for a short-ar$e like me. ;)
So I am "re-cycling" [sic] the components and frame tubes until I can come up with some better ideas that actually make cycling and safety-sense.
The tilting bit I can do, with no real issues (including some suspension) with a balance-scale linked trailing arm assembly.
I need to resolve the FWD front-end so it is usable by me. Probably needs me to take over the dining room table from the enemy and to do some 2-D layout drawing.
 
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How about a semi-folder that could move the rear wheels in to 20-24 inch for the tiny path.
You could then make the real track wider for carrying cargo or just for higher speed cornering.
I am slowly building Delta LR FWD using the same crank/chainwheel arrangement as the Trizard, with the bottom chain going over an 23t idler and then down to the cassette. Returning chain over a 15t idler at the front top of the head tube to the chainwheel. Terracycle said I could use an eight or ten mm shaft on the 23t idler, I will use the 10mm shaft.

Tom
 
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How about a semi-folder that could move the rear wheels in to 20-24 inch for the tiny path.
You could then make the real track wider for carrying cargo or just for higher speed cornering.
I am slowly building Delta LR FWD using the same crank/chainwheel arrangement as the Trizard, with the bottom chain going over an 23t idler and then down to the cassette. Returning chain over a 15t idler at the front top of the head tube to the chainwheel. Terracycle said I could use an eight or ten mm shaft on the 23t idler, I will use the 10mm shaft.

Tom
I have considered it Tom, but I think a really dangerous "Narrow-Tracked" tilting trike is called for :D
 
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