Doug's Warrior Plan Questions 3 - Axle Mounting Tabs

Joined
Jun 7, 2021
Messages
21
Location
Durham, North Carolina
In the Warrior plans (page 73, diagram 4) dimensions are given for the axle tabs that get welded to the bottom of the modified head tubes. Since the dimensions were provided I made my axle tabs to diagram 4. That has created a problem.

If you plan on using 5/8" bolts for axles as proposed by the plans, diagram 4 places the edge of the through hole VERY close to the rounded end of the tab. Clearly this isn't what was intended.

I can probably use what I have because of the thickness of the material and how the tabs are loaded in use. However, will the tabs made to the diagram need to be modified / shortened so the through hole is closer to the FLAT edge that gets welded to the head tubes? I hate to start over and make new tabs but I will if necessary.

I would appreciate your comments and suggestions.
 
Joined
Sep 17, 2020
Messages
145
Location
Ohio
I'm not sure if that link will work, but if not go check my gallery, I just uploaded my drawing i made for the same issue. I drew out everything he had, either in corel draw or on paper first to see if it looked like it would be strong enough or to close tolerances, etc. i made the tabs bigger and moved up the hole from the bottom. I would also suggest if you went to buy the steel for the bike, just buy some half inch think bar for this step and save some welding and grinding time.

Also watch out for the two metal tabs for the bottom of the peddles. I made those larger also drilled the holes then shaped them after that, i would prefer to have the holes first then make it look cute 2nd.


 
Joined
Jun 7, 2021
Messages
21
Location
Durham, North Carolina
Thank you both.

After making my post this morning I stared at the parts I made yesterday and decided that I would modify them to meet their intended function. I made plugs for the existing holes, welded them in place then re-drilled in a location that appears to match the figures in the plans. Basically I kept the rectangular stock size the same as in the plans and used the "trace the nut method" to define the hole location. The results look much better.

I could have started all over again but plugging and re-boring the axle holes was quicker.
 
Joined
Apr 11, 2021
Messages
26
In the Warrior plans (page 73, diagram 4) dimensions are given for the axle tabs that get welded to the bottom of the modified head tubes. Since the dimensions were provided I made my axle tabs to diagram 4. That has created a problem.

If you plan on using 5/8" bolts for axles as proposed by the plans, diagram 4 places the edge of the through hole VERY close to the rounded end of the tab. Clearly this isn't what was intended.

I can probably use what I have because of the thickness of the material and how the tabs are loaded in use. However, will the tabs made to the diagram need to be modified / shortened so the through hole is closer to the FLAT edge that gets welded to the head tubes? I hate to start over and make new tabs but I will if necessary.

I would appreciate your comments and suggestions.
 
Joined
Apr 11, 2021
Messages
26
I had the same problem on the tabs for the street fighter. The plans are off a little and the hole has to be raised. I’m surprised this hasn’t been modified on new plans that are sent out. Good luck with your build.
 
Joined
Jul 29, 2021
Messages
35
Hello Craftsmen:

I am just starting to plan my street fighter build, and am interested in knowing what welding gears folks are using for the frame.

I hope to go with a simple flux core MIG system.

cheers Dan
 
Joined
Jun 7, 2021
Messages
21
Location
Durham, North Carolina
I have TIG equipment but had only used it on sheet metal with close fitting gaps prior to the trike build. I am not good at filling gaps with TIG.

If I had to do it again I would probably buy a flux core (MIG) welder for the job.
 
Joined
Oct 19, 2012
Messages
1,887
Location
Wakefield, UK
Many of the machines on here have been built with a flux core mig. I have a Cebora (they make welders for Snap-on) 160 MIG and run it with CO2 because it's cheap and I can get it easily. I've had it years. Bought it secondhand and it's been 100% reliable needing only consumables. With a MIG of any description get spare tips and shrouds as they are classed as consumables and will need periodic replacing. MIG is the easiest to learn and most tolerant of poor gaps. Mig will weld thin steel and thicker stuff too if your machine has the grunt. A good choice.
 
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