Doug's Warrior Questions 6 - Cable Routing

Joined
Jun 7, 2021
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Durham, North Carolina
Brad does not go into much detail and offers few suggestions regarding how to route the brake and shifter cables on a Warrior.

In my build I am only using the front brakes. Can some of you please post pictures (particularly underneath) showing how you ran your cables? Thanks for any advice and images you care to share.
 
Joined
Sep 17, 2020
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105
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Ohio
I know this is an old thread, but here is my "nickle worth of free advice". I just finished two warriors and one tomahawk this is the process I used. I didn't want to go with the zip ties (again), Popshot recommended cable guides in another post, which is what I ran with. I ordered a 100 pack of guides from framebuilders, welded them on and ground down the welds enough for the cables to fit. The end process is so much nicer and cleaner and well worth the effort.


Not sure how to best organize this info, so sorry if it's messy:

  1. I bought velcro cable wraps and zip ties.
  2. I tied off all the cables with velcro, using the pic's in the PDF's and a best guess method.
  3. I went on a ride with zip ties, velcro and a pair of scissors (and patience).
  4. During the ride, I removed, replaced, moved the velcro around until it felt like it correct, ie. still breaking, shifting, not causing issues, excessive hanging, interference with anything else, etc.
  5. Once it seemed like an entire cable route was correct, I replaced the velcro with zip ties.
  6. After all the cable routes were zip ties, I went for another ride or two and made sure there were no issues.
  7. Next I removed the zip ties by welding cable guides and grinded the welds smooth enough to allow the cables to still fit.
  8. Yet another test ride (the struggle is real).
Here are the locations where I welded the guides on the warriors:
  1. 2 guides on the top, of the left rear fork leg for the rear deraileur, one toward the front and one toward the back in a straight line.
  2. Under the rear seat and back rest on the seat supports on both sides. These were for routing the rear deraileur on the left and the rear V brake on the right. 3. Under both steering booms, in the middle, I welded one guide each for the front brakes.
  3. On the right side of the front boom, about 1/3 of the way for the front deraileur. I did this just about opposite of the front idler pulley, since the peddles won't be able to side that far up to the seat anyway.
 
Joined
Feb 7, 2008
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3,393
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Nottinghamshire England
I made cable guides and then stopped using them and went to reusable zip ties shortened for the place they were being used ?

With cable guides they have to be snug enough to hold the cable which means to remove the cable you have to take the ends off the inner cable and usually the end ferrule , this is just a pain in the butt especially as now mine trike is separable for transport and the rear brakes need disconnecting to achieve that.

Also cable outers come in different diameters sometimes not fitting the guide at all ?

Paul
 
Joined
Sep 17, 2020
Messages
105
Location
Ohio
I used these Cable guides because you can just twist the cable to drop it in and out which solves the issue of having to take it apart to remove it. Also, to make them a little more snug i welded them on over the ends then ground the weld down until it was smooth enough to fit the cable and not pinch but left held it solid.
 
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Thom_G

yes they would look as thought they would work well , not seen them before.

Paul
 
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