Ed's 'StreetRunner' Quad Build

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Paralleling a set of 7 with another set of 7 will double the available Ah.

You can't parallel a set of 7 with a set of 2 of the same as the terminal voltages will be different - 2x as opposed to 7x.

You can't parallel a set of 2 with 2 that are in the set of 7 as it would not increase the available current as it will be limited by the non-paralleled 5 capacity.
 
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Paralleling a set of 7 with another set of 7 will double the available Ah.

You can't parallel a set of 7 with a set of 2 of the same as the terminal voltages will be different - 2x as opposed to 7x.

You can't parallel a set of 2 with 2 that are in the set of 7 as it would not increase the available current as it will be limited by the non-paralleled 5 capacity.
I kind of thought that would be the case. But I was hoping there might me some magical electronic wizardry, that would make it happen.

FYI I'm finalizing the details of my battery order as we speak. Details later.
 
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Well I finally bit the bullet and placed my order.

Here's what I got.
https://www.techdirectclub.com/48-volt-nissan-leaf-lithium-ion-mini-power-pack-battery-3-5-kwh-66ah-g2/
NOT for that price though.
After a bit of negotiating, I was able to get that package for $735. OTD, free shipping.

After some thought about the pro's and con's, the lithium won out. The cost is way higher than I wanted to pay,
but the size, 70 % capacity, pre-built, integrated BMS, 60 % the weight of SLA, including a $125.00 battery charger, just seemed right.

Now the practical testing can begin. That is after the mounting of the motors, jackshafts, and finding a place to secure the battery pack.

Another major milestone for the evolution of the StreetRunner.
 
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Be aware that the specs gives a maximum current discharge of 60A.
I hope that means maximum constant current discharge.
Becouse if you put the pedal down on a long uphill you draw more than that.
 
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Be aware that the specs gives a maximum current discharge of 60A.
I hope that means maximum constant current discharge.
Becouse if you put the pedal down on a long uphill you draw more than that.
It's a bit late now, but just what does that mean ?
 
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It's on to the practical application, and see what the results bring.
So with that in mind I need to work on placement.
It just so happens, that the box that my motors came in, is virtually the size of the mini pack.
The pack is 10 x 14 x 10. The box is 10 x 14 x 12.


So after placing it in the 'desired' places, I ended up putting it, where it fits, virtually perfect.
It means longer cables, which I have, so initially no problems are foreseen.
The mini pack weighs in at 70 lbs, so the box is much easier to manhandle.



Placing it in the middle, removes some of the +/- 400 lbs, that will rest on/over the axle.
Better weight distribution, by placing it in the middle. Harder to do 'WHEELIES' though.
No worries of it, busting loose, from behind. Only concern I have at this point is ground clearance.
The modules are in a case. But none of the pictures show it with a top or bottom. If not I will have to make one.



And a center console, of a design that compliments the overall design.
It will be more for gauges, OR ? It's too far to reach from the seat.
 
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Another step/part closer.

The 24 tooth sprockets arrived today. They come with a pilot hole of 5/16 (7.9375 mm)




 
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5/16" shafts? IMO they will break with the amount of toqure you will induce on them.
 
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5/16" shafts? IMO they will break with the amount of toqure you will induce on them.
The 5/16" is just a 'pilot' hole, used to start a drill of a larger size.
The shaft size for the 11 tooth gear is only 3/8", (12mm)
So I'm thinking a 1/2" rod, (12.7mm) should work.
 
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Received the Mini Pack today, but without the promised charger.
Have sent a follow up to the vendor.

A tidy looking package. It looks to fit just behind the firewall/cowling, with no cutting out of anything.
Turned it on, and it registered 57.2 Volts






That fuse is huge. will need to find a holder for it.


 
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Got my charger...all be it....USED.

I wasn't thinking about the chargers being, a recycled part as well.

I guess it's No Harm, No Foul.
 
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Now that I've received both the battery pack and the charger, I'm wondering ...how to use/care them.
What do all the pretty lights mean.

What I'm disappointed in, is there is no literature with either one.
No user manual, no warnings, no cautions, no how to's, no do's, no don't do's, etc.
I'm flying virtually blind. Not a comfortable feeling.

I've spent a considerable time searching the internet for anything regarding either one.
Not much readily available.
TechDirect, just said the only thing they have, is what is on the web page for each item. (Not much help)

So the saga, and request for help shall continue, as I approach the time to actually hook up everything.
But for now, it will just be working on getting the battery installed in the frame.
 
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Great day to work outside. 72 degrees (F) very little wind.

Cut out the 1 x 1 for the battery supports.



Fits like it was made for it.



The battery will sit 2", below the frame. 3" total.
The supports are only tack welded at this point.



A little notching required so the battery will fit.



Got to make a couple of 1/8" spacers (orange lines), to narrow the supports to where the battery bolt holes are.

 
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Up early this morning @ 4 am...couldn't sleep.
Still no Rectifier manual..sent follow up email.

Anyway
Thinking about how was I going to mount my two motors, led me to look up how differentials work.
Not that I'm planning on using one at this stage, just wanted a better understanding.

Question I had, using the two motor method I intend to use.
If both motors are driving the same, (one driving each wheel), how are they affected while going around tight turns?
Is there a change in draw, electrically, due to one wheel going faster/slower than the other?
Is there strain exerted on the motors in any way?
Would it be better to connect both motors to one axle, i.e. the right or left?

Does it even matter with this type application?
 

Twinkle

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If it was me l would fit a motor to each half shaft. At low speeds in cornering the motors should be able to cope with the slight variation of current drawn . Also over bumpy terrain you will always have one wheel driving .
 
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Up early this morning @ 4 am...couldn't sleep.
Still no Rectifier manual..sent follow up email.

Anyway
Thinking about how was I going to mount my two motors, led me to look up how differentials work.
Not that I'm planning on using one at this stage, just wanted a better understanding.

Question I had, using the two motor method I intend to use.
If both motors are driving the same, (one driving each wheel), how are they affected while going around tight turns?
Is there a change in draw, electrically, due to one wheel going faster/slower than the other?
Is there strain exerted on the motors in any way?
Would it be better to connect both motors to one axle, i.e. the right or left?

Does it even matter with this type application?
From:
https://www.ebikes.ca/
One Side or Both?

Trike with dual Grin hub motors can be insanely powerful and will be able to rocket up the steepest hills with amazing efficiency, but it is also quite expensive to do a full conversion with two specialized motors and motor controllers. You can also run a tadpole or delta trike with just a single side wheel motor and leave your original wheel on the other side. In general this does not result in any lopsided steering or handling issues and allows for a ligher weight and more economical conversion.
 
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If it was me l would fit a motor to each half shaft. At low speeds in cornering the motors should be able to cope with the slight variation of current drawn . Also over bumpy terrain you will always have one wheel driving .
Good to know, thanks Emma.
Plan is to do just that. Now that I've decided where to put the battery pack, the space available for both motors is greater.

From:
https://www.ebikes.ca/
One Side or Both?

Trike with dual Grin hub motors can be insanely powerful and will be able to rocket up the steepest hills with amazing efficiency, but it is also quite expensive to do a full conversion with two specialized motors and motor controllers. You can also run a tadpole or delta trike with just a single side wheel motor and leave your original wheel on the other side. In general this does not result in any lopsided steering or handling issues and allows for a ligher weight and more economical conversion.
Being this project has evolved more into an electric vehicle, than a bike/trike, the cost keeps getting more and more.
I knew going into this build that this part, (motor & battery) would be the big ticket items.
Now it's deciding on the brake system as well. Also another costly but essential piece of the puzzle.
As I don't 'plan', on having brakes in the front, I will double up on the rear hydraulic disc brakes.

I actually saw a rear axle offered that had a three disc set up. Two small disc's and one larger disc.
Something like this;
https://www.gopowersports.com/150-cc-brake-kit-discs-included/
 
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