Ed's 'StreetRunner' Quad Build

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Here's another thought I had, regarding the use of two motors vs. one.

Thought maybe I could fit one of the motors, with an on/off switch.
The idea is that if the terrain allows for it, then one motor could be shut off, if not needed.

Example: On one of the local parade routes, the road is down hill, at maybe 3% downgrade.
 
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With one motor to each axle the extra draw on one as you turn should be balanced by a reduced draw on the outside. If you mount them both to the same axle you'll get a different draw depending on the direction of turn.


If you are shutting a motor off you still then have to supply power to either turn it over via the other one or to run freewheels so the axle can turn without the motor. Best to have freewheels anyway so you can simply let off the throttle and coast more freely where appropriate. Would make it easier to push too.
 
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With one motor to each axle the extra draw on one as you turn should be balanced by a reduced draw on the outside. If you mount them both to the same axle you'll get a different draw depending on the direction of turn.


If you are shutting a motor off you still then have to supply power to either turn it over via the other one or to run freewheels so the axle can turn without the motor
Understood.
 
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Yes I know. If you do not run freewheels though the road will turn the motor not driven and this will effectively then become a generator supplying power back to the battery. This doesn't come for free unless you are completely off the throttle. Going down a slight hill would require more throttle to the working motor to turn the generator. If you have a switch knocking it off then it won't become a generator but the other motor will still need to supply enough power to turn it over at road speed because it's connected to the ground, again unless you run a freewheel so the wheel can turn without having to spin the motor.
 
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Yes I know. If you do not run freewheels though the road will turn the motor not driven and this will effectively then become a generator supplying power back to the battery. This doesn't come for free unless you are completely off the throttle. Going down a slight hill would require more throttle to the working motor to turn the generator. If you have a switch knocking it off then it won't become a generator but the other motor will still need to supply enough power to turn it over at road speed because it's connected to the ground, again unless you run a freewheel so the wheel can turn without having to spin the motor.
I was a bit to slow, on the pick up of your last post. I changed it, as soon as the light bulb came on. Thanks for the tip
 
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Perhaps something along these lines for the axle sprockets
Could do. I already have the 54t T8F sprockets.
Also, I'm using a 3/4" axle. Could be changed, but would rather not, because everything would have to be replaced, or rebuilt.

I think I'm correct in thinking, if the motors are direct connect, (chain & jackshaft) then they will help to slow the vehicle down, just by the drag, from no power...I think.
 
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Drive Motors Update

The 11 tooth (weld on) sprocket has a 3/8" hole, so a little metal whittling.
Once everything is mocked up, then the welding starts.
The 24 tooth sprocket will be a slide on, with a shaft collar to hold it in place.
Will need to file a flat spot for that set screw as well. Maybe drill a hole with bolt would be stronger.





First look at the jackshaft. I'm taking advantage of the axle mounts.
I think it will be a clean and effective way of doing it.



I'm using my last two 3/4" bore pillow blocks.
Sprocket sizes are; Motor 9T...jackshaft input 24T, output 11T...Rear axle will be 54T




This setup leaves room either in the middle, or on the outside for brake rotors.
Spent part of the morning looking for dual hydraulic brake kits.
Haven't decided whether to leave the motors toward the rear, or bring them forward to just behind the seat front.

 
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The first jack shaft is finished. I wonder about the smaller 11T sprocket end, and how strong it will be.
It's the same 3/8" diameter as the motor shaft, which is only 9T.
With two motors carrying the torque load, maybe it will be OK.
If not, it's back to the 'design' board.

I added some welds around, to give it added strength.
Got to clean off the weld spatter.



Had some time to work on the 54T sprocket. Getting it ready for the 3/4" axle.
The three bolt holes/bolts worked out real well, in maintaining center.



Just three tack welds, at the moment. Just to hold it together, for fit checks.



It was time to take two steps back, and remove the axle and pillow blocks.
Needed to remove the axle, so it could be cut in half.



After removing the axle and pillow blocks, I found the pivoting motion, to be rather stiff.
Not as I remember them when new. I was going to use my grease gun, but found it to was 'out of grease'.
So I set about removing each bearing, greasing them and reinserting them back.


 
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Cut the first axle in half.

Reattached the pillow blocks, with a spare full length, 3/4" axle rod.
All is lined up for the moment, with the newly fabricated jackshaft, and new axle sprocket.

Waiting for my order of master links to arrive, then I can break down the chains, for a better feel for how things will fit together.
I'm thinking, that with such short, chain lengths, I won't have a need for a chain tensioner. Maybe from the motor to the jackshaft.





 
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Another snafu !

I went break down one of the T8F chains I have, using the chain breaker that came with my order.

Well that didn't work. The chain won't seat in the breaker.
Try as I might, I can not get it to fit. So before I take a grinder to it, I've sent an email to the supplier,
with photo's, for their feedback.






 
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Well I'm just about up to 'here', with TDPRO. First they send me parts, I didn't order, and left out 3 parts I did order.
And now they want to blame me, for not knowing how to use a chain breaker. STRIKE 3, YOUR OUT !
They insist that the part they sent me is correct. Maybe it is.
But as I tried to tell them, the tolerances for the channels, will not allow the chain to slip down into the channel.

EVEN after looking at all the photo evidence I sent them, showing it won't work, they still insist, nothing is wrong.
They told me they have sold 104 on this listing, without one complaint,
so that was their proof, that it was the right tool.
I told them, of the 104, those that may have had a similar problem, just chose, 'to eat it', like I'm having to do.

Remember this: If it don't fit, you must acquit. Well I say: If it don fit.. I must quit...buying from them..
As you can see, it works perfectly, as designed, with a regular bicycle chain.




The barrels are too close together to slip down over the tabs.



You can see how high the chain sits. The only way to get the pin any where close to the push pin, is to fold the chain, into a 'V'.
Then while trying to hold it at that angle, while using my 'third hand' to help hold everything, I was able to get a pin started out.
BUT, the chain was sitting at an angle to the push pin, so I doubt it would have worked all the way, with out getting stuck.
Haven't tried to replace a pin. It was way to cumbersome, just trying to hold the chain,
from flopping out of the breaker, while turning the handle.




Those barrels will not fit over those tabs.
No matter which side I place the chain, it will not slide down in the channel.




If I'm doing something wrong, I certainly don't see it.
 
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Back to building.

Change of design for the jackshaft.

I need to raise the 11T sprocket up higher, so the chain comes in contact with more of the teeth.
Also my design for using just one pillow block per shaft is flawed.
Because it is a 'self aligning' pillow block, there is a virtual certainty, there will be movement of the shaft.
So I've order more pillow blocks. I will add one more to each shaft. That will provide the stability needed.
 
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OK, a new design. Sorta

While I wait for the pillow blocks to arrive, I'm borrowing one from the other side.

This be the latest, mock up for a new jackshaft.
The motor has been flipped around, and all gears are on the inside.

I offer up this version, for your viewing pleasure and/or opinion.
Still need to install the frame piece, in case your wondering..




I was able to use the 4 1/2" axle from the first mock up.
Also welded some more on the small sprocket. I really didn't like it without that little bit extra.


 
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Today I worked on another version.

Set up is not complete, so no pics, just yet.
I will tell you that I've moved one pillow block over to the other side of the frame.

However, as a teaser, the below photo shows the spacers I put in place, to raise the JS up.
I originally wanted to go up 1.5 ", but that put it into the bottom of the seat.

So looking at this setup, which is up 1", it's still better than before.



Below is the last version. So I'm moving one pillow block, to the other side of the frame.
One on each side of the frame, at the same location....does that even make sense?
I've made matching supports for the other side of the frame.
You can just see the top of it, in the above photo.

 
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New Day..New Version

Nothing is squared up yet, as this is just a mock up. But it is tack welded in place.

After this break, (gotta have my coffee), I'll work on welding on the 11T sprocket , to a new 3/4" shaft.




Maybe cut some flat plate, or 1 X 2, for mounting the motor.

Will install cross braces, (yellow Line), to help stiffen the frame, where the JS is mounted.
However if I do that, I'm forced to put the brake disc's in the center.
Or use one brace in the center and leave the outer area open for brake disc's.

If I use one in the center, it will have to be a 1 x 1 only (to fit through chain and miss the sprocket).
If I go with the outer area, I can use 1 x 2 or 1.5 x 1.5.

 
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While searching for brake kits, a thought about pulley's came to mind.

Brad, I think you mentioned using belts, some time back, to keep the noise level down.

Anyone
Knowing what I'm building, and the potential for some noise being generated by the chains/mechanism, etc.
do you think my configuration is doable with belts, instead of chains ?

I think I would have to find a calculation for pulley sizes, vs that which I am using for the chain drive.

What say you?
 
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