Ed's 'StreetRunner' Quad Build

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V belt or toothed?
Either one. Which ever is appropriate, and could work.

Edit. I've been doing research and for this application, it would seem that the toothed belts would be best.

Still looking for information, telling what size belted sprocket to use, to replace the my existing sprockets.
 
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Belts are much quieter but toothed sprockets are likely to be less abundant and more expensive than chain ones. A number of Harleys use them so they must be able to do the job and may be a place to start searching for them.
 
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Slow But Sure @ 1/4 steam ahead

While I'm looking into converting (later) to belt drive, and what I learn in the meantime,
progress on the chain drive system moves forward.

The body has been restricting my movements and ability to see well to weld.
So this morning, off it came. (A design element :D)



MUCH easier. I was able to see much better, and getting into and out of position to work,
will greatly ease those parts, that aren't wanting to cooperate anymore.

Got the motor mounts welded in and bolt holes drilled.
Bottom needs welding, but that will come later.



After some modification of the 'bicycle chain breaker', I am able to break the chain apart.
Still I must find one suitable for this heavier T8F chain.



Ran out of (or can't find) any more 3/8" bolts or threaded rod to make more.
Chains are made to length, and installed, and are near perfect for tension, as they sit.





Oh! , did you notice the change?
 
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Radical Brad

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Yes!!
Get 'er put on the road for a test run, even if you have to hold the bare wires in your teeth!
Funny... first test of the Yard Mule, I was toggling the motor wires right off an old car battery.
Spark! spark! spark!

Brad
 
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Yes!!
Get 'er put on the road for a test run, even if you have to hold the bare wires in your teeth!
Funny... first test of the Yard Mule, I was toggling the motor wires right off an old car battery.
Spark! spark! spark!

Brad
Yeah ! That would be a thrill. And I would need to add some reins as well, seeing how's, there's no steering wheel.
And, I won't need any head lights, because with those wires in my teeth, my eyeballs would surely light the way. Move over Rudolph ! :ROFLMAO:

"And now here's, the rest of the story"
.. AKA, 'Mr Paul Harvey'

I fed you the main course in the last post. Now here is your dessert.

My pillow block bearings were supposed to arrive tomorrow, but arrived today.
But while I (was) waiting for them, I made a couple of corner braces, for the rear of the frame.



With my motor and gears/chain, securely protected, I proceeded to weld the braces in.



I had no sooner finished making the supports for the new pillow blocks, when I took a short break and discovered they had arrived.
So tomorrow, the plan is to make two motor mounts, have some coffee, drill some holes, have some coffee, make JS axle, have some coffee,
shorten a couple of chains, have some coffee. And while I'm having coffee, I will think about what to do before .. I have my next coffee.

 
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Didn't get 'everything' done yesterday.

Didn't get the chains made, and I didn't get my nap!

This morning before going out, and while my brain cells are in the mood, I worked on the wiring. (power only)

I needed to take the schematic that was supplied, and make it work with my two motor, two controller setup
The idea here, is to gain understanding of how and where things will/may go, and what gets connected to what,
with out setting my shop on fire, or toasting any components.



Below is the schematic supplied with my motors.
I'm not including any accessory wiring in this exercise.
 
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Can't see the 911 "call button" or the fire-extinguisher button, or the Police Radar Gun blocker. :ROFLMAO:
 
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SirJoey

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My cozy little nook in the corner!
Been awhile since I checked in, so a lotta catchin' up to do on this thread,
but WOW, amazing progress, Ed! This thing's gonna be the HPV of a lifetime! 😁
***
 
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most if not all states require working peddles to be street legal?and under 1000 watts?
 
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Turned cooler, wind chill factor, threat of rain, and windy. Time to work inside.

Trying to make sense of all the wires and connectors.
They're not all marked, so there is a bit of a hunt and peck trying to find what goes with what.
The controllers are marked, so that helps. But not all color coding is the same.
I may have to unwrap the wire harness, as it isn't really setup for my application.



I've marked my motors, so I won't loose track, of which is which....:D



Preliminary setup. Still need to figure out how the wiring harness is going to work into this.
With what I have connected so far, (please correct me if I'm incorrect) in my wiring.
I think that all that is needed for just a motor function test, is to energize the two battery cables, and see if the sparks fly. 😬
I'd be using the battery circuit breaker for a switch.

And yes I know the battery cables do not have ring terminals...YET !

 
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Egads! your vehicle requirements are a bunch of gibberish. Sounds like you will need a VIN number?
Typical California laws, need a lawyer to interpret. Good Luck, your going to need it.
 
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I wouldn't energise any motors except with both driven wheels off the ground - just in case one motor tries to drive backward while the other drives forward, or in case forward propulsion is so savage that you never see the machine again.

Would be a nightmare to sort out without a colour code.
 
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I wouldn't energise any motors except with both driven wheels off the ground - just in case one motor tries to drive backward while the other drives forward, or in case forward propulsion is so savage that you never see the machine again.

Would be a nightmare to sort out without a colour code.
Not to fear, there will be no wheels on the rear.

Not only that, the first function test will be without chains.
I want to have the foot throttle hooked up first.
Or I may just use one of those 'free' hand throttles, TDPRO, haven't ask for back.
 
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curious?? how are you going to be sure BOTH MOTORS turn the SAME rpm?
maybe two sensors to monitor the rpm of both motor sprockets then slow down/speed up of specific motor.
Just using the motor controller would not be too reliable IMO
 
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Do they need to? If one motor wants to run slightly faster than the other the road will even them out. Just like a differential on a car one wheel can/will get more power than the other but the car runs in a straight line. Equally delta trikes with only one driven rear wheel work fine.
 

Twinkle

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curious?? how are you going to be sure BOTH MOTORS turn the SAME rpm?
maybe two sensors to monitor the rpm of both motor sprockets then slow down/speed up of specific motor.
Just using the motor controller would not be too reliable IMO
Don't think it will matter.
our twin engine model aircraft dont have any matching devices and they don't fly in circles
 
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curious?? how are you going to be sure BOTH MOTORS turn the SAME rpm?
maybe two sensors to monitor the rpm of both motor sprockets then slow down/speed up of specific motor.
Just using the motor controller would not be too reliable IMO
Do they need to? If one motor wants to run slightly faster than the other the road will even them out. Just like a differential on a car one wheel can/will get more power than the other but the car runs in a straight line. Equally delta trikes with only one driven rear wheel work fine.
Don't think it will matter.
our twin engine model aircraft dont have any matching devices and they don't fly in circles
Thanks for the input. I tend to agree.
I think that if everything else being copacetic, it will run like a well oiled clock.
....Hopefully in the direction it's meant to go .... I think :unsure:
 
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