Ed's 'StreetRunner' Quad Build

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Sep 12, 2012
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Apple Valley, California, USA
Seeing you mount those cylinders brings back memories of building a race car and finding a perfect ready made racing pedal box assembly in a Reliant Robin of all cars
I'm a bit of a hoarder when it comes to metal. Outback I have a couple of piles of various metal objects, from basketball hoop stands to building siding.
I'm always seeing metal use in everything. Especially curved pieces.
Like my windshield frame is made from lawn chair frames.

here is the master cylinder
located in El Monte Cal.
That's the same master cylinder I have. There are 3 ports on each one, but I will be plugging up one port on each cylinder.
I'm also removing 'one' brake light switch, as it interferes with the mounting of them side by side.

One cylinder will be for the front brakes and the other for the rear brakes.

What was the problem with the one that didn't work?
 
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After a couple of tries, this is what I ended up with.
It's still in the rough stage, but it fits.



Now I'm working on the actuator arm design



Still need to cut off the 45-degree angle on the top of one upright.



Fitting as designed



The bracket came with an angle that was near perfect to the angle of the frame.
Thus keeping the fluid cups level.



I think I will not use the actuator arm I have. After seeing this part of the install,
I think a less bulky, possibly adjustable shaft will be better.

 
Joined
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I could not get the unit to pump any pressure. Hopefully you have better luck
I used mineral oil. Absorbs less moisture than brake fluid.
Suggest obtaining a large syringe from local pharmacy then reverse bleed your brakes.
Youtube is your friend
 
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I could not get the unit to pump any pressure. Hopefully you have better luck
I used mineral oil. Absorbs less moisture than brake fluid.
Suggest obtaining a large syringe from local pharmacy then reverse bleed your brakes.
Youtube is your friend
Thanks for that tip. I may have a go at that.

This morning I got the actuator shaft installed and the holes through the frame drilled out.




But I've run out of useable shaft collars so ordered some more.
I need one more for locking the shaft in place and at least two more for the actuator arms.
Using this method allows for the removal of the shaft...for whatever.

The only thing that bothers me about using shaft collars to lock the actuator arms, and still allow for adjustments is the possibility of slippage from being foot operated. There will be a lot of torque placed on those set screws. If I drill out seating holes or file a flat spot, that eliminates the ability to make adjustments.


 
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Joined
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The brake actuator is done and tested.





Welded to tabs onto the bracket that came with the MC.





Using 3/8" shoulder bolt

 
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Finally got 'undepressed' long enough to work on the brake foot lever.

From an old Gannon fork tine, back when I had a garden tractor.


Cut angled welded drilled and semi ground smooth.
Still have cosmetic holes to drill out and trim to length.



Trial fit of mounting hardware



Trial fit onto the frame



Just room enough to fit next to the steering box.
Need to trim off about a 1/4" off the end of the shaft.



The brake lever will pivot on the shaft
Temporary scrap aluminum connecting bar. It works as intended. Just need to make another/final connecting bar.



The shaft collars are welded to the frame and the 3/4" shaft is secured with the set screws.



Haven't decided on a foot 'pad' or 'peg'. I think I need to try and be symmetrical with the throttle pedal.
So a flat plate design may be forthcoming, that will mirror each other on the two functions.

The peg version...maybe.




This is sorta what I'm thinking of doing.

 
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Good to see you are back Ed'. :D
 
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Apple Valley, California, USA
Good to see you are back Ed'. :D
Haven't been gone...just set on pause.😴
This election thing has really taken a toll on me.
But it's coming to a satisfactory end, so I'm beginning to relax a little.
But that's a subject best not discussed here.

The weather in the last couple of days has been super.
I have been energized to get out in the shop and work on something, anything.

I chose to make the hubs for mounting the rear brake discs, and here is some progress.

But first

When your cutting discs get too small do you throw them out?
If so, you're missing out on two uses for them.

The smaller ones work great for making those really small tight curving cuts.
They are also useful as a template for all sorts of circle sizes.
I'm thinking of marking a select number of sizes and putting them away until needed.



4" circle being used here.



I'm using a 3/16" plate (4.78mm)
3/4" center for axle.



Marking outer diameter for each mounting hole.



All that remains is to weld on the shaft collars. I think one on each side of the hub. Two set screws being better than one.

 
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Jul 29, 2020
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That's a great looking project there. Are you still on AZ? Did you finish this?
It puts me in mind of the Munsters mobile.[/QUOTE]
 
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That's a great looking project there. Are you still on AZ? Did you finish this?
It puts me in mind of the Munsters mobile.
[/QUOTE]

Thanks, Hukah

No, it's not finished, just in limbo for now. The latest work being the fabrication of brake disc hubs.
The Munster Koach is one of my inspirations.

The weather has been quite cold and damp for this old man, so heating the shop for working only a short period isn't economical.
In fact, it rained last night with a dusting of snow. Snow is forecast for tonight (Sun) as well and again Wed-Fri.

We just had our 25-year-old carpet replaced last Thursday. That meant emptying the house of all nick-nacks, and furniture. No easy task at our age. We're still putting things back.

Maybe I'll get going again as the weather warms up.
 
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The weather warmed enough so I could get in a couple of hours of design and fab work done.
Most of my time was spent figuring out a layout for the calipers and brackets.

If I shorten the 3/4" axle tube spacer by (+/-) 1/2",
then I might be able to use both calipers for the parking brake, using just one cable.


 
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This morning was unexpectedly warm (enough) and calm. So I did a quick fab of the remaining bits of the caliper/pillow block mounts.
The next step is to either drill and mount the pillow blocks, (if I can find them) OR design and cut out the metal for the caliper brackets.



Once I have the pillow blocks in place, I will remove the black tubing that is keeping the split axle aligned.

 

SirJoey

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My cozy little nook in the corner!
This is so unbelievable, I could almost see a trip to CA in my future,
just to see for myself that this thing actually exists! :oops:
***
 
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Apple Valley, California, USA
This is so unbelievable, I could almost see a trip to CA in my future,
just to see for myself that this thing actually exists! :oops:
***
No fake news here Sir Joey :D And I've had my shots! 😷

Good to hear from you. Progress has slowed considerably, but looking forward to spring, so I can spring into action and get more done.
At the moment my time is being taken up with a new movie I'm making for one of our RV trips in April. It's a montage of comedy series sketches from the past. An hour of hilarity that's sure to cause some gut splitting laughs. I'm following that with the second one featuring music, magic, and variety.

Maybe I will post it to Youtube for you all to see. You can be my guinea pigs as to what you think.

A teeny bit of progress today.


The position of the two calipers, warrants attaching a piece to the caliper mounting bracket.
I need to reposition the attaching point because the bolt head interferes with the rotor.

I will weld the mount extension to the existing mount and that will bolt to another piece welded to the frame.
I will cut threads in the new extension and trim off a bolt to fit flush.



The picture shows the bolt in the wrong way. Didn't think of that when taking the picture.
Also, the bolt holding the caliper in this picture will not be used.





 
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OK now. The planets have aligned just right and the weather has helped to align the mind.
Been doing other things and using computer time on writing and movie making.

But some time allocated to working on the car.

Pillow blocks scavenged from the 'Inferno Trike'. My last two.
It was either that or buy more.



I need to cut some 1/2" tubing to weld in place for crush tubes.




I'm at a point that I need to visit my metal supplier and buy another length of 3/4" rod.
To be used to get all pillow blocks lined up and setting the axle square.
 
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Apr 15, 2013
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Washington state
I am looking at reserecting my so called hot rod and got to thinking about your two motor drive set up. What happenes when you go around a corner?
say you make a right turn and both motors are going say 800 rpm. the left wheel needs to got faster or right wheel needs to run slower.
SOLUTION! connect a 2 gang variable resistors to the steering column so when turning say right, it automatically speeds up the left motor and slows down the right motor.
just a thought.
Looking at purchasing similar motor for my rod. Present set up drains battery as it does not have enough power.
 
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Wakefield, UK
I can't see such relatively low power (yes they're high power for a bike but not going to rip up any tarmac) motors having any issue with slowing or speeding for a corner just like they'll slow down or speed up, up or down a hill. They'll simply ask for more or less power from their controllers as the load increases or decreases due to the turn. The road will slow one down and speed the other up without any issue. A single wheel RWD delta has no issue turning left or right and this is only in effect two instances of that on the same vehicle.
 
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what brand of master cylinder did you by. I have one but could never get it to work.
 
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