Ed's 'StreetRunner' Quad Build

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Sep 12, 2012
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I am looking at reserecting my so called hot rod and got to thinking about your two motor drive set up. What happenes when you go around a corner?
say you make a right turn and both motors are going say 800 rpm. the left wheel needs to got faster or right wheel needs to run slower.
SOLUTION! connect a 2 gang variable resistors to the steering column so when turning say right, it automatically speeds up the left motor and slows down the right motor.
just a thought.
Looking at purchasing similar motor for my rod. Present set up drains battery as it does not have enough power.

This from my friends over on Endless Sphere
Re: C Cab Hot Rod Power Advice
by fechter » Feb 10 2020 9:03am

Driving a single wheel will result in a heavy steering pull during acceleration. While you could get used to it, it's far from ideal. It could be dangerous in some situations. If using a single motor, I would highly recommend using a differential like the ones on a pedicab.

With dual motors, when doing a tight turn, the inside wheel will have a higher loading and be doing most of the work. The current limit in the controller will keep it happy. It will act like an electronic differential with limited slip.
 
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Apple Valley, California, USA
The StreetRunner is growing in girth and weight. So a little aid was needed.

I'm installing a hoist on the center beam. The first order of business was to add some 1x6x10 (20' overall) to either side.
With 24' of span, there might be a bit of strain near the middle.


I've completed the first of four rails,(1 1/4 x 1 1/4 angle iron. 3/16".
Four 10' rails welded at the center to make two 20' long rails.
One 20' rail on each side of the beam.

I ran out of welding wire and had to get another roll.
HF has started selling Vulcan brand welding wire. I bought a 2 lb roll (ER70S-6) to use while waiting for their 11 lb roll.
I used it for the first time today. Seems to work just fine.
The price is good as well. $29.99 for the 11 lb roll. About $10.00 cheaper than comparable brands.
Watched an online comparison of the Vulcan against Lincoln. No discernable difference noted in the video.
My immediate reaction was it was smoother than the Chicago Electric I was using.

Got the first rail completed today and installed. I will photo update tomorrow.
I will get the second rail completed and installed.
I will then attach the hoist, which will allow me to move the car back out of the way for the second half.
2X2 tabs welded on top of the angle iron. They will be lag screwed to the beam every 20"

 
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First half up and 'it works', :)

I will add some flat bar on the bottom (perpendicular) to give the bottom rail addition strength.



 
Last edited:
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Nicely done Ed'. :D
 
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Thanks Dan

With the first half of the hoist rails completed, I was able to use it to move the StreetRunner over out of the way of the other side.
Nursing a pulled neck/shoulder muscle so the other side will have to wait until that feels better.
I was able to get the rails welded up, but raising them into position over my head ... well it hurts. 😬




On a side note.

I ran out of welding wire the other day. I buy my wire from HF. Have never had any issues with it.
I've never used any other. Maybe I don't know the difference. Anyway, I wanted to try their new Vulcan brand MIG wire.
Watched a welding review of it compared to Lincoln...result, ... no appreciable difference...for the home hobbyist.
I find it works great. No complaints. Runs smooth, good arc.

Making these rails is really the first time I have been able to seriously weld something other than thin metal.
Soooo much easier. Got some nice welds. Got a couple of not-so-nice. Ground down and welded again...better 😀

Anyway while waiting for HF to get in their 11 lb roll, ($29.99 pre-20% coupon) I bought their Vulcan .030, 2 lb roll.
And the 11 lb roll is about $17.50 cheaper than the local big box. 😄
 
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Does it get a tad "toasty" in there under that Californian Sun Ed'?
 
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Does it get a tad "toasty" in there under that Californian Sun Ed'?
It does Danny, but I'm sorta used to it.
Though the older I get the 'used-to-it' part is less desirable.

If I recall I've posted it being +/- 100-105 F, and exceeding 110 F on occasion.
But I can work at night/evening oftentimes.

The sheds I built are all insulated and cool.

The long-term plan is to finish insulating the remaining sides and ceiling.
My eagerness/need to get moved into the shop took precedence over getting more insulation and wallboard.

The two west-facing hot sides are insulated and having the door open with fans helps.
Tried an evaporative cooler, with undesirable effects. It was good for only making it humid.

I'm working on getting the brakes completed then tackling the wiring again. With any luck, I should be able to do a function test on jacks, and maybe a trial drive, around the yard.
 
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A function test of the new hoist. First, I removed the 70lb battery.
How nice that was, not having to strain my back lifting it out of its cradle.

Then as envisioned, I lifted the rear of the chassis up to a working height.
Was able to get all hydraulic hoses mated up and temporarily secure.



No more unnecessary hands and knees work.



Now to finish the plungers and weld in the master cylinder bracket.



And fashion a foot brake pedal.

 
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Have the mechanics tight, now for the electrical.

Had it working in the beginning, but not so much now.
This should be nothing more than make the connections and push to go.
I checked the continuity of the wiring harness to the throttle as well and that seems okay.
Not sure about checking the throttle ???

Getting 56 volts from the battery to the terminal blocks.
Continuity check shows okay.
Not getting any voltage from either controller to the throttle/potentiometer connector.

Hoping the controllers are okay, just something I'm doing wrong ... 🤔

Does anyone want to venture an opinion?

 
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As all other things get power, than it can be that it is broken or that you need to set it up.
I don't think do, but I find it strange as everything gets power, that throttle doesn't.
 
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Any display at all on the controller screen? Mine showed an error-code if the throttle was sensed incorrectly or sensed as being "not at Zero" on power on.
The throttle on mine was just a potentiometer so if the controller could NOT see the required resistance reading on connection of the battery power it would NOT liven up the motor circuitry.
No idea on yours I am sorry to say, but it sounds like a safeguard to stop the thing sprinting "rider-less" down the street has occurred.
 
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Any display at all on the controller screen? Mine showed an error-code if the throttle was sensed incorrectly or sensed as being "not at Zero" on power on.
The throttle on mine was just a potentiometer so if the controller could NOT see the required resistance reading on connection of the battery power it would NOT liven up the motor circuitry.
No idea on yours I am sorry to say, but it sounds like a safeguard to stop the thing sprinting "rider-less" down the street has occurred.
I had a similar problem the last time I function tested the system. I will hook everything back up today and see what happens.
I may have forgotten what I am doing, (probably).

After I last tested the system, I disconnected the wiring harness to get it out of the way. It should be a matter of reconnecting and all is supposed to work...right? :unsure:
 
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IT WORKS ! FARROOOM, FARROOOM!

I did some more checking of the voltage and continuity and all checked good.
Then voila, it just started to work. So, I figure I have a connector that doesn't want to connect tight.
I will have to try and isolate that.

I got the driver's side working enough to know that I need to look into the brake discs.
There is a not-so-good noise coming from that area.

The fabrication and alignment of the discs and calipers haven't been easy.
As I don't have a full production plant to make such things, alignment issues are all trial and error.
 
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