Ed's 'StreetRunner' Quad Build

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Washington state
I suggest going with a mid drive Bafang motor at 48 volts. LOTS of power
I have a cyclone 500 watt 24 volt motor I can remove from my unused hot rod. Ithas a reduction gear box. Worked rather well but not a whole lot of zip.
 
Joined
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Apple Valley, California, USA
I suggest going with a mid drive Bafang motor at 48 volts. LOTS of power
I have a cyclone 500 watt 24 volt motor I can remove from my unused hot rod. It has a reduction gear box. Worked rather well but not a whole lot of zip.
I want it to be capable to handle (move), a car/passengers @ +/- 600 lbs. at a speed up to 20 mph.

You may need to hop over Brad's fence to get a drive unit with enough torque. He is all for DIY so he may not mind.
REALLY ! ..๐Ÿ˜จ Most people have guard dogs. Brad has guard, ... 'BEARS'

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Here's an idea ๐Ÿค”
Bulky looking as adapted here.

 
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Coaxial cable might be a suitable and far cheaper item that will pass for plug leads.
some CAT5 computer cable would work and easier to bend tighter.
I like the sound effects.
I have done as suggested, and used coaxial cable. I had a 100 foot piece left to me from a generous cable guy.

First, I drilled out the holes in the 'magneto' cap.

The wires will be held in the cap, by nuts screwed on the wires.
I have downloaded the firing order, and cylinder numbers, so I can be as authentic as possible, when routing and attaching the leads.



My DIY boots, are made from some old lawn sprinkler fittings. I did have to buy some 90's though, as I didn't have enough.
Needed nuts to attach the boots to the engine block. Made them by cutting the old fittings in half, and re-purposing them as nuts.
One on the inside, one on the outside.



This operation required removing the engine block, from the frame, so I could get a better angle for drilling out the mounting holes.




And a first look.

Not sure about the wire routing, as yet.
Need to make or buy wire looms, so everything looks neat and tidy.



I seriously doubt, that I will leave the wires in this configuration. This wire does hold its shape, well.
when I have wire looms to attach to, they will look much better.


 

Radical Brad

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Just crazy cool!

How about a standard PMDC motor and controller for the drive?
You could mount it any way you like, easy to conceal, and go fully belt for 100% silent operation.
It will run you a bit more $$$ than a hub motor, but will offer a lifetime of reliable service.

This one "Scott 1HP" motor as used on Sparky is still here ready to power one of my robot projects...

2994

The controller is a bit overkill, 300 amp from a club car golf cart, but bullet proof. It is what I use on the Yard Mule as well.
This drive system is absolutely 100% silent.

If jogging speed is your max goal, a single gearmotor from an old powerchair would also work well.
Another 100% silent motor that will run for decades and can be easily hidden.
Here is one I was using as a drive and generator on a proto camper trike frame...

2995

Power chair motors put out between 300 and 500 watts, and with the gearbox have torque rated in foot pounds.
Usually the output shaft is 3/4" and turning at 250-350 RPM.

Oh, and feel free to climb my fence, but beware, it is electric!

Brad
 
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Messages
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Apple Valley, California, USA
Just crazy cool!

How about a standard PMDC motor and controller for the drive?
You could mount it any way you like, easy to conceal, and go fully belt for 100% silent operation.
It will run you a bit more $$$ than a hub motor, but will offer a lifetime of reliable service.

This one "Scott 1HP" motor as used on Sparky is still here ready to power one of my robot projects...

View attachment 2994

The controller is a bit overkill, 300 amp from a club car golf cart, but bullet proof. It is what I use on the Yard Mule as well.
This drive system is absolutely 100% silent.

If jogging speed is your max goal, a single gearmotor from an old powerchair would also work well.
Another 100% silent motor that will run for decades and can be easily hidden.
Here is one I was using as a drive and generator on a proto camper trike frame...

View attachment 2995

Power chair motors put out between 300 and 500 watts, and with the gearbox have torque rated in foot pounds.
Usually the output shaft is 3/4" and turning at 250-350 RPM.

Oh, and feel free to climb my fence, but beware, it is electric!

Brad
Thanks for all the tips Brad. Will add to the 'much-to-learn' pile.

And I have no fear of electric fences.
My grandfather was good at providing 'practical education', on the tinglings, of such things.
 
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Today's Progress

I think we're having spaghetti for supper.
Need to mount the magneto, permanently.
Not much room left after making the new log manifold.

Wires are extra long, until the final configuration, and then they will be cut to length.
All wires have been marked, for which cylinder they go to.



Have the cylinder configuration set. I'm using a big block Chevy for my example. (No Ford/Dodge is better remarks .... please)

The magneto firing order....Was it 1, 2, 3, 4 , 5, 6, 7, 8 or was it 5, 6, 7, 8, 4, 3, 2, 1
or ??? :unsure:




This configuration is fashioned after one of our Calif. freeway interchanges.



Found this DIY wire loom on the internet.
Will serve as a temporary measure until I decide on something else..if anything.



Using zip ties, works great, but lacks a way to attach the wires to the block.
So mounting the magneto, and making a wire loom 'bracket', seems to be the current priority.
Will upgrade later.

 
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I've been scouring the internet to learn all things about motors,
controllers, volts, amps, torque, ac vs dc...whew! ๐Ÿ˜•
And does size matter ?
Many options to be had.
Many cost variances.

I'm expecting to pay $$$ for the right set up, BUT, not if I don't need to.
Don't want to overkill.

This offering seems to fill the need...not sure though.
https://www.ebay.com/i/163073146318?chn=ps
I do like the 'reverse' direction capability.
Half educated guess, I need only to use around +/- 500 watt for the weight I expect to end up with.

Also not sure about the (no free spooling) and how it would affect the operation.
Do I need a clutch ? https://www.isparts.com/product/420-chain-clutch-3-16-inch-keyway-14t-3-4-bore-go-kart/
 
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Radical Brad

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Kakabeka Falls, Ontario, Canada
Great build, all of it!

It really depends on how fast you intend to go and on what type of grade.
1000 watts can easily move a bicycle and an adult up to 30Mph+ on the flats.
Geared down to 15Mph, 500 watts would easily do it.

I have a 30:1 gear reduction on my Yard Mule, and when pulling only 3000 watts (4Hp), it will drag a large ATV even when the ATV is trying to pull me!

That motor would certainly have the power to move your vehicle at a brisk jogging pace if that's what you are after.
One thing to note is that it will be somewhat loud. Not as loud as a drill running, but similar sounding gear noises.

Brad
 
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Messages
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Great build, all of it!

It really depends on how fast you intend to go and on what type of grade.
1000 watts can easily move a bicycle and an adult up to 30Mph+ on the flats.
Geared down to 15Mph, 500 watts would easily do it.

I have a 30:1 gear reduction on my Yard Mule, and when pulling only 3000 watts (4Hp), it will drag a large ATV even when the ATV is trying to pull me!

That motor would certainly have the power to move your vehicle at a brisk jogging pace if that's what you are after.
One thing to note is that it will be somewhat loud. Not as loud as a drill running, but similar sounding gear noises.

Brad
Thanks Brad

I have watched some YouTube vids, of motorized vehicles, and they too had that annoying 'whinning' sound.
Any suggestion beyond your previous suggestions.

Maybe it could be enclosed in a sound proof container ?
Changing the chain drive to belt drive ?

I have an old treadmill motor. I read that some of them are DC.
I've not known of a DC motor that plugs into a 110 volt outlet.
Haven't gone to the shed to check mine, but I doubt it will be DC.
 
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I have watched some YouTube vids, of motorized vehicles, and they too had that annoying 'whinning' sound.
Mobility scooters tend to whine, so do rear hub e-Bike motors - or at least those I have been exposed to. Regen braking ones probably will too. The Bafang BB01 mid-drive that I have on my Warrior doesn't. I expect it is a 3-phase, brushless DC drive. Brushes will be the main cause of whine in a DC motor.
 
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Thanks Kevin

Because the motor will be enclosed within the bottom of the seat area,
I will probably use sound absorbing foam, if it becomes necessary...i.e. 'annoying'.

Been a good day, with important bracing installed.

Bought 4 ft of 2"x 2" aluminum angle, to use to hold the magneto.
Also to provide additional stiffness to the back (and front) of the engine block.

$9.00 US, for 48 ", at my local metal supplier.
To buy the exact same thing at my local Lowes/Home Depot...$27.60



Had to notch out a place for the magneto nut.
The cover can't be put on until the magneto is secured, thus the reason for the notch.



All buttoned down using self tapping sheet metal screws.
Securing the top cover, has really stiffened the whole motor.




Back in its rack, for now.

I'm holding off, cutting the wires, until I have made or bought the wire looms.
The routing makes a difference on the length of each wire.





Here's a point to ponder, or hazard a guess.

What is the weight, of the engine as you see it, in the next two photos?

One Clue - The 5 beer cans are filled, to make them hard.
The whole manifold weighs just 2 lbs less than the rest of the motor.



Waiting for the last can to be consumed.



THERE THEY ARE !
All went well today. I even found my eye glasses...after cleaning up, that is.

 
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I'm 'wired'..๐Ÿคช..I mean tired ..๐Ÿ˜ด

It don't look like, there's much to it, but the wiring is all done, for now.
I'm not sure where all the time was spent, but I've been working on this, mentally and physically for two days.





I needed to add two more secure points at the back corner on each side.
This called for installig another couple of threaded inserts.
I was having waaay! to much hassle, trying to tighten down those @$^&$ inserts.

So I grabbed my 20 % off coupon, and made a quick trip to my local cheap tool store, and purchased a proper tool for doing the job.
https://www.harborfreight.com/45-piece-threaded-insert-riveter-kit-1210.html?_br_psugg_q=threaded+insert

You know ....being cheap...I mean conservative, just plain gets in the way at times.


I'm going to add, two more secure points in the back. Not sure it looks good, just hanging there.


 
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Started this day by attaching the loose wires in the back. It looks much better now.
I have really enjoyed fashioning the 'faux' engine. It has come out pretty much as I envisioned.
But now I will take a rest from that, and start thinking/working on something else.

In the mean time, I have brought the 'faux' radiator out of mothballs.
The grill front needed to be attached permanently, and the corners need some cosmetic work as well.
I mixed up a batch of J B Weld, to hold everything together.



Time to ROAR!

As I mentioned in a past post, it may be time to seriously think about power.
I will admit to being near the back of the line, when it comes to knowing what's what, in this department.

However, I came across this offering, which would really simplify things for me.
BUT, this looks like a really inexpensive price for what it is.
I don't need to get the cheapest, but don't want to pay for more than, what I really need.

A decision needed.

Is this price a good deal, or am I wasting money.

I am thinking strongly, of buying this motor & accessories.
I like all the particulars, that this set up offers.
For my limited knowledge, (working on improving that) this fills just about all my needs/desires. (I think)

And then there's the battery choice.

No guesses on the engine weight, so here's the answer.......26 lbs
With my previous weighing of parts, at +/- 100 lbs, the new vehicle weight total is around 126 pounds so far.
Hoping to stay below 200 lbs.
This motor and accessories, should come in around another 15 lbs.

This is where/what I have to work with.





Thanks to those that have offered advice so far.

Any pro/cons on why or why not to buy this, will be appreciated.
 
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Messages
1,959
Location
Washington state
Pretty cheap would be Leary. Looks just like a cyclone 500 w motor but at 24v. The 48v IMO is a mistake or ??
Look a cyclone motors to compare. This is what I have on my "hot rod".
 
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How fast do you want it to go?
Thanks Kevin

Here in Calif, there is a type of vehicle classed as NEV. (Neighborhood Electric Vehicle)
I'm still checking all the requirements, ' IF ' I decide to go to all the bother.
This vehicle is being made, primarily for the enjoyment of the build. BUT, it would be fun to be able to use it legally, in and around my local streets.
How fun would it be, to drive it to the bread store, to get a loaf.
There I go.....dreaming again.

https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/detail/pubs/brochures/fast_facts/ffvr37/!ut/p/z1/nZFLb4MwEIR_DUe0yxuOVptCIGkqIRHwBZlXoAqGEAe1_76mkdpTUqU-zR6-8ewsUEiBcjZ3Bya6gbOjnDNq59H6eaUFPka-tSFIoiDYJatE9z0DEqBASy5G0UJW9XNeDlzUXOQ1V1DOCo6X4qxgMQ1le5lqKRt2FnnDSrHoZp4MZ_EYy66CTLc1VtmVo9ZMR9V0NV11K2aontk4NuqFUdU27L9D4Y1HEOj9zJnkndxbo6u5MUa7-NVBQsJAC8039F40iB8MdDW89aNlP2wY_rWCvEv3fjpRIstfCv8QkP67fWmmT9un7UFmZKJVO94MkC4kpD8kpL-k1Fdyv-x1_xZj37vGp8oKFw3rOG9IE5MvlYb2WQ!!/dz/d5/L2dBISEvZ0FBIS9nQSEh/

Anyway...
One of the requirements to get that classification, is it must be capable of attaining at least 20 mph, but not to exceed 25 mph.
That's a narrow window, so gearing would certainly come into play.


Pretty cheap would be Leary. Looks just like a cyclone 500 w motor but at 24v. The 48v IMO is a mistake or ??
Look a cyclone motors to compare. This is what I have on my "hot rod".
Why the low opinion about the 48 volt?

Thanks Idaho

The info is much appreciated. Did you have any direct contact with them?
If so, how did it go? I might put together a requirements list for them, to make a suggestion back to me.
 
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I have a 24v motor from cyclone with a gear reduction.
I am thinking of parting out my "hot rod" since the rear axle needs two more bearings etc. it has a freewheel differential that works good.
it is geared to only go 10mph.
Looking at the NEV regs, you are going to need to register your "hot rod" with a vin#.
forget the golf cart as you can only operate within 1 mile of a golf coarse.
I am not knocking the 48v but the math amps, watts etc doesn't add up.
 
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