Let's get back to basic. How does the system work?
Traditional flasher relays work with heat.
So when you switch on your indicator the power used also heats up the heating element in diagram above when hot enough it brakes the circuit and then it will cool down and connect again and warm up again and so on. UNDERSTOOD
So in your case, red cable from 12v DC/DC converters +, through fuse to X on flasher. The negative cable from your converter to chassis.
CORRECT -HAVE DONE
Blue cable connect to L on flasher, the black cable is only used to light up the indicator light so leave the cable disconnected for now.
NOT SURE HERE. THE BLUE CABLE IS THE CABLE THAT CONNECTS TO THE INDICATOR LIGHT
The Yellow green orange and brown cable goes to each light so if you don't connect the lights the flasher will not work,
ACTUALLY THE OPPOSITE IS TRUE. THE SWITCH AS PER INSTRUCTIONS IS DESIGNED TO BE GROUNDED THROUGH THE CASE . IN PARTICULAR, THROUGH THE SWITCH HANDLE ITSELF
it's grounded through the lights, so if the flasher relay works without the lights you have a grounding problem.
I BELIEVE THIS TO BE TRUE, BUT THE PROBLEM IS HOW TO CORRECT.
There should be a grounding through the outer case of the switch, but only to make the indicator light work. So the switch should work without being grounded through the case. So when the switch is in the off position you are disconnecting the lights and the flasher stops.
THE SWITCH HANDLE ACTS AS THE GROUNDING POINT FOR LEFT-OFF-RIGHT POSITIONS. IF I ISOLATE THE CENTER POSITION WITH TAPE THEN THE SWITCH WILL NOT FUNCTION, WHEN IN THE OFF POSITION. THAT WOULD BE CORRECT - EXCEPT, I LOSE 4-WAY CONNECTIVITY.
Led light takes much less power to work 1-5 watts compared to a standard light 10-35 watts.
I'M USING LEDs
so the switching rate may be wrong ( have you ever driven a car and when you indicate it flashes at the wrong speed, and when you check your flashers, one of the bulbs don't work)
You may need to compensate by adding a dummy load.
I TALKED WITH SPEEDWAY MOTORS TECH SUPPORT "DANA" AND SHE WAS THRILLED ABOUT THE CHALLENGE, BUT ALAS EVEN SHE/THEY COULDN'T TELL ME WHY IT IS ACTING THE WAY IT IS. SHE EVEN SAID DON'T BUY THEIR SWITCH EITHER.
or change the relay for one made for led lights.
I'M USING AN ELECTRONIC FLASHER UNIT, SUPPOSEDLY OK FOR USE WITH LEDS.
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So do not connect the black cable to L or the red cable to the stoplight switch or the switch housing to ground and see if it works.
YES I'VE DONE THAT A THOUSAND TIMES. I CAN CONNECT THE RED WIRE FROM THE FUSED TERMINAL BLOCK TO PIN 'X' AND THE BLUE WIRE FROM EITHER PIN 'P' OR 'L' AND THE FLASHER OPERATES. THAT IS NOT THE EXACT PROBLEM. WHEN ALL IS CONNECTED AS DESIGNED THERE IS (NO PROBLEM- WITH IT NOT WORKING) THE PROBLEM IS IT WON'T STOP WORKING WHEN IN THE OFF POSITION.