Hi, newbie, a little about me and why I gotta get one made!

Joined
Jul 28, 2019
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37
First off I think these trikes are awesome, but I’m not paying over $4k for which is basically 3 bikes? Anyway is it a street fox of tadpole? I love the rear suspension of a mountain bike which gives me a question, if your going forward aren't the front wheels going to get the most shock? The backs going to get the drop?
Anyway, my wife and I are both disabled, she for the first time got her first bike (just a simple trike) but I haven’t ridden a bike in 13yrs because I have a seizure disorder, I so want to make one of these bikes cause I figured it would keep me low to the ground and I couldn’t tip it if I had a seizure, plus I’m sure I could put like a 5pin racing seat and break lock if I let go of something like on a lawnmower, how it cuts the mower off, plus I most important I can ride around with her, I gotta get parts, unfortunately I don’t have a welder so I gotta find someone around town who wouldn’t mind helping out,
JR
 
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Oct 19, 2012
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On a SWB tadpole the front wheels take about 2/3 of your weight so that would be the ideal place to have suspension. Unfortunately it's the hardest place to put suspension due to engineering limitations largely involving the tendency to lean outwards in a corner if you have front suspension. Rear suspension is very simple to employ in contrast to the front but of less use. In my opinion there's enough benefit to be had from having it so I generally employ it on my machines.
 
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Jul 28, 2019
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I want to learn so much, I mean I’m not sure what I’m going to be using for a seat, the wife’s all over me to get a good one, I’m after just making my own, but then heck what about a 2nd hand racing seat, one with the 5 point harness, perfect for me, but heck just take 6 springs and bolt it to the frame?
JR
 
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Having experienced first hand how much damage you can do to yourself and how painful the surgery is to fix what you broke; I no longer desire to go so fast that I would benefit from front suspension or tilting features of a trike. :ROFLMAO: I now leave all high-speed stuff to the young and those with rubber for bones.
 
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It’s all town, it’s just that some of the sidewalks are a little off key so you can get one of those tilted and BAM when your not looking, and of course being older the bladder gets shaken up, like ohhh,
JR
 
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I've used the link below for two seats now. Excellent quality and cheaper than the Germans.
I'd not mount the seat on springs. It'll make pedalling weird and harder as you push against the seat so some of your pedalling effort will go into bouncing the seat around. A car racing seat may inhibit your legs unless you mount it reasonably upright. It may also generate a fair bit of friction on the outside of the thighs if it's a snug one as they're designed with a limited amount of leg movement in mind.
 
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Jul 28, 2019
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I gotta ask, I’ve noticed some frames have been made from emt, what about fence post? 2” emt vs 2-3/8” fence post, Yet I read fumes from emt isn’t good, I just want to build a good cheap trike, there’s just nothing around here and we don’t drive to go looking for goodies..
JR
 

SirJoey

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My cozy little nook in the corner!
Welcome aboard, TMP! I'm with Popshot... I wouldn't go with a spring mounted seat OR a racing seat.
Personally, however, I love the rear suspensions. It does soften the ride on these old bones!
Good luck with your new venture, & keep us informed. Help is always here! :)

***
 
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Jul 28, 2019
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Well, like a newer tractor the front two points would have to be hinged and the back two springs, plus I’m going to be in some type of seat restraint, a seatbelt or 5pin, but this isn’t the big deal, getting the frame built first is. What do I use? What’s good that doesn’t cost a lot?
JR
 
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I've used 2" round mild steel on my tilting trike. It's more than enough for the job. I believe most EMT is galvanized so fumes are an issue. Mild exposure isn't much of an issue but substantial expose can be fatal. Given you're looking for someone-else to weld it it's probably better given a miss as they may simply say no.
 
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Don't forget rectangular and oval too. Square is easiest to work with in terms of cutting and welding. Rectangular gets a little harder but allows you to put the longer side where it'll cope with the biggest strain for no extra weight. Round is somewhat harder with fishmouths to create for welding but looks more professional IMO. Oval also looks great and like rectangular can be oriented so the long dimension is coping with the most strain. For someone new to making such things square would probably be best as it is what is shown in the plans allowing you to follow them more closely.
 
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Jul 28, 2019
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That and probably easiest and cheapest to find. My book came in today so, first piece of the puzzle, just gotta find parts after I figure what,
JR
 
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Jul 28, 2019
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37
What bikes do you need for a streetfox tadpole? 2 20” for the front and a 24 or 26” spring rear mountain for the back? I think that’s the bike I want to build
 
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Feb 20, 2013
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Axedale, Victoria, Australia
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In theory at least, you don't need any bikes to build anything. However, how far you come down from that view depends on what you are prepared to scrounge for usable parts. By usable, I mean reliable, not that'll-do-for-a-little-while unless it is for working out placement or design.

Used bikes, if you're lucky you'll get them for free, can be the source of bottom brackets, wheels, pedals, cranksets, derailleurs, handle bars, shifters, brakes, etc., offsetting the build cost. You need to work out what parts you will buy, being careful not to order too soon as your design might change mid-stream, and what you will scrounge. In short, work out what it is that you will build - not always an easy decision as you need to target your intended use.

Regardless of which way you go, there is someone on this Forum who has already been there, satisfying their particular requirements. Building your own can also mean tailor-made. It's an interesting, hopefully rewarding, journey.
 

Twinkle

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We have built several Streetfox variants with straight front cross booms , 20 , 24 and 26" wheels, most have been built with both disc brakes and under seat steering by copying the uss and brakes from the warrior plan .
We use the 20/20 wheel layout nowadays as the trike has a much shorter Wheelbase and fits in the rear of the estate car.. We have also fitted e-assist , most of our builds are in the old forum.

Regards Emma
 
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Jul 28, 2019
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I don’t want my seat too high because of my medical, I don’t want it too easy to fall, and if I do not going to be a high fall, thus was just thinking a 24” in the back, we don’t go fast, the Mrs phone actually has a app and it says we pretty much only go about 6-8mph throughout our rides..
JR
 

Twinkle

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The difference in 26 and 24" wheels is just 1" , going 20" all-round and adjusting the fork tube angle will lower the seat, most people seem to fit a mesh seat which will make it slightly higher but easier to get up/sit down .A slightly wider track makes the trike more stable.
 
Joined
Jul 28, 2019
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Yeah I get the truly only 1” diff, our other thing is we ride on sidewalks on half of the roads because of the high traffic, so some of the corners are very tight! So you think just going al 20”s would be better because it’s also going to make it shorter too?
JR
 
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