High Roller frame size

Joined
Oct 28, 2019
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Location
Sydney Australia
Just got the plans from AZ and have a question regarding the monotube length
.
The plans say it should be 30 inches (760mm) from the headset back to the rear forks however the photos appear to show it longer.

So I imported the photo into Sketchup , scaled it to the right size and measured the length and it seems that it is about 900mm long, about 36 in. instead of 30 as per the plans.

Maybe after building and photgraphing the prototype the plans were revised?

I tried to insert the sketchup image into this message but it seems that I can only attach images which are on the web somewhere, this ones on my C drive!
Is there a way to insert images directly?

Anyway, is the correct dimension the 30in or the 36in .

Regards
Stewart
 
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Hey Stewart, welcome to AZ!

First: A great way to get images here is to go to imgur.com, drag/drop the image into the website, and then right click the image and show it in a new tab. Grab the URL from your address bar and use that here. Works every time :)

I haven't built a High Roller so I don't know the exact answer, but in general I can tell you this: Trust the plans. They work. What Brad's was sized and what yours are sized are irrelevant. The plans work :)
 

Radical Brad

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Hello, and thanks for your support!

I am not a Sketchup user, so I did the same thing in SolidWorks, just to verify for you...

4000

As a reference, I used the diameter of my 700cc wheel, which is just over 26" with a tire.
This isn't a perfect way to compare due to Nikon lens distortion, but you can see that the boom would definitely not be longer than 30".
I would say that something is wrong with the way sketchup attempts to use photos as a reference.

Thanks,
Brad
 
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Hillsboro, OR
I would figure a wheelbase of 48" and adjust the main tube length. Thats what I did on the High Roller that I built years ago and it worked out fine. Just just modified a Vision R40 to FWD with a wheelbase of 49". I'm 5' 9".
 
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Thanks everyone for your replies.
I have uploaded 2 images from Sketchup onto Flickr so hopefully you can now see.
I realised my original sketchup drawing was slightly the wrong scale as I based it on the wheels being 700mm dia instead of 650mm (26in) so the whole drawing was a bit big.
However even with this now corrected I still find that when measured over the photo the monotube length appears to be 85mm longer than the 760mm the plans show when superimposed over the image " Highroller 6"
The 760 is in green the extra 85 in red.

Interestingly when I reduce the wheelbase to1200mm ( 48" ) as Irv suggests the monotube seems about the right 760mm length. I think I will do the same as I am about the same height at 5'8". The sketch Highroller 7 shows this.
Brad I will import your drawing into sketchup and see how it compares .

I know there is a bit of flexibility so the dimensions are not that critical providing I keep the 73 degrees head angle.

On a different issue has anyone put rear suspension on the high roller, something similar to the Tricruiser plan on the AZ website.

Regards
Stewart

Just tried to insert the images but it didnt let me, got a message saying "something went wrong ,try again or contact the administrator"
It did allow me to insert a link to the flickr site.

https://flic.kr/p/2hCqvgn https://flic.kr/p/2hCqwuu
 
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Just imported Brads photo into sketchup and traced over it. Dimensions are 30" for the monotube as the plans show, this results in a wheel base pretty much 1200mm or 4'.
However while the 73 deg steering angle seems right the monotube appears to be not quite right angles to it.
Not sure what what causes the discrepancies, photo distortion I guess, anyway I will mock it up before I weld.
Regards
Stewart
https://flic.kr/p/2hCt4Vg
 

Radical Brad

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The closer I take a photo, the more fish-eye distortion the lens will introduce.
Best plan... use the suggested dimensions, but adjust to your own liking.
Nothing is too critical.

Cheers,
Brad
 
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Location
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Another question
I have cut the headset off the donor bike, a giant rincon and I want to remove the ballbearings to grease them/
I think it is a cartridge type, any tips how to remove and replace it
Regards
Stewart
https://flic.kr/p/2hHeXbD
 
Last edited:
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Wakefield, UK
They should just lever out with a screwdriver but if they won't budge put the widest bit of wood you can fit through one bearing that will reach the bottom one and knock the bottom one out from above with a hammer. Use the hammer/wood at several points around the bearing. They'll press in with a moderate tap from a hammer and again a wooden intermediary. Using a wooden bit reduces the risk of damage. The bearings themselves ought to be sealed but that doesn't stop crap getting all around them
 
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Thanks Popshot
Turns out they are not cartridge but the bearings just sit inside the race which is press fitted into the head tube. The top part of the race is retained by a thin metal ring which fits inside a groove in the bottom race. Getting this out without damaging it was difficult but not impossible, I put a thin screwdriver between the outside of the top race and the retaining ring and by twisting it prised the ring out.
Not sure about getting it back in.

I think? it is mainly to hold everything in place during assembly but not necessary once the whole stem and forks are in place.
I see in the instructions that the welding is done without the bearings in place, so I will wait until after that stage before reinstalling. the instruction pictures show the races in the head tube left in place while welding, I guess this helps with preventing distortion.

Attached a few photos and a drawing, it might help someone in the future.

Regards
Stewart
https://flic.kr/p/2hHxB1D https://flic.kr/p/2hHwvYW https://flic.kr/p/2hHwwJt
 
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Questions about suspension.

The AZ design calls for using front forks for the rear chain stays however since I have only one donor bike from which I will use the front forks for the front I have to find another solution for the rear.
I am thinking of having a suspension of some sort on the rear since I cant stand up on the pedals to absorb the potholes.

One option is to build the rear forks out of the 40x40 frame steel material and use a rubber door stop as a "spring".
This is not unlike the rubber wedge that the Moulton uses, as shown in my photo of a very dusty frame in my shed, the image from sketchup shows how this could work.

Another option is to modify the rear stays from the donor bike, the close up photo of the dropouts show how I can cut the seat stays off and reposition them, , the red shows how the seat stays could be repositioned, and the sketchup image shows how this could be used together with a spring to provide suspension.

Any advice on the options and specifically advice on what sort of hinge is needed, a simple bolt or bushings of some sort.

Regards
Stewart

Moulton rubber suspension
door stop suspension
dropouts
spring suspension

Just has a problem with inserting links to images, worked previously?
 
Last edited:
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Most cheap bikes that have rear suspension use a very basic bush and bolt system for the hinge, often alloy or brass. You could cut one off a donor or use something like these. I've never tried a rubber block system so can't compare except to say that most bikes I know of that used to use those are all in the past. A more modern air suspension unit can be set to whatever pressure is needed to spring comfortably. Adjusting a rubber block is probably much harder if possible at all.
 
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I have seen a DIY trike with nothing more than an elastomer block to smooth out the bumps. Haven't ridden it but it seemed to work well when someone else was riding it. How it would compare with a doorstop I have no idea.

My own experience is only with the typical, cheap, MTB spring shock that only has the spring and a pre-load mechanism and no rebound control. It works fine for me and I have no need to even think about high-priced air type shocks. So far, I have only used it on the rear wheel of a tadpole but am approaching the time when I will be considering what I do for the front. If I only rode on paved roads, I wouldn't consider front suspension but off-road is another matter.
 
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Hi there

Problem with rubber is it limits the amount of travel you will get compared to some sort of spring ?

Look here :- http://www.dutchbikes.nl/pagina/ks2_drawing.htm they use a normal rear end and use the BB for the pivot , you could free the seat stays at the top of the seat tube and bend them down if you wanted to use the donor bike rear and reduce it's height ?



Download drawings with English notes , well draw and lots dimensions.

They use a rubber block but it could easily just be the spring removed froma MTB shocker , as the body of the cheap one's have no function apart from spring mounts.
 
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Sydney Australia
Thanks for the replies
I will probably buy a cheap spring rear suspension unit an use that.
I have already cut off the bottom bracket from the rear stays to use as per the plans so cant use it for the pivot for a suspension, might try the PTFE bearing.
Already made up the seat from a very light ply and covered it with fibreglass for strength and made a timber mockup to work out seat pedal relationship.
https://flic.kr/p/2hLNXp2
 
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2,095
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Nottinghamshire England
Thanks for the replies
I have already cut off the bottom bracket from the rear stays to use as per the plans so cant use it for the pivot for a suspension.
If you only have one donor frame you are making this build a lot harder than it should be !
 
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