Yes, but your will be so much better, I am sure.
Aah I do need to get in with the metal glue stick ?Are you sure there's enough clamps on that? There might be space for more if you really try hard.
There's a lot of people on here with part-completed projects I think. Me included.So I still don't have 3 complete trikes no bad going in my book ?
stormbird said:
So I still don't have 3 complete trikes no bad going in my book ?
I think you have the wrong end of this stick ?There's a lot of people on here with part-completed projects I think. Me included.
I've bailed on at least 2 tilter attempts. The 24" Python might end up the same way.
Looking good PaulTilt#2 = 72 miles - retired - dangerous
Tilt#3 = 272 miles - [semi] retired - proved tilting concept
Tilt#4 = 93 miles
Near 100 miles on Tilt#4 , still nothing bad has happened , couple of have to be ' careful ' moments usually doing some think questionable at low speeds like crossing a drive ramp at 45' etc.
So Tilt#5 has started , got the rear end back together and welded to the main boom.
However gas is getting short - gauge pointer on stop , sadly still 3 small welds to do , i don't want to try it now and crack any of the existing welds.
As you can see same track as Tilt#4
It is only mildly accurate i.e it is about 1/2" [ 12mm ] bow legged and about 1/4" [ 3mm ] pigeon-toed , I can live with that !
These don't help very hard to jig up as heavy and has brackets stuck out at odd angles at the end and the vertical joining piece , adding to the problem is the fact M12 rodding is NOT a tight fit in M12 precision tubing [ neither are the m12 bolt ' axles ' for that matter !
all for now Paul
Only from about 10ft away !Looking good Paul
I suspect yes as the BB will now be to low for this rear end as seat is now raised from:-Will this back-end eventually get a new and improved front end with a hybrid [Paul + Donor-bike] front end frame that can take a 20/24 wheel?
Well yes , however that is someway down the ' to do list 'When will you put an IGH or one of your N3XX hubs up front?
So do I any idea ?We need to know
If I were blessed with good ideas I wouldn't be here.So do I any idea ?
part | Tilt#4 | Tilt#5 |
Main frame from ground | 10.5" | 5" |
Seat front from ground | 18.5" | 15" |
Top of handle bars from ground | 22.5 | 19" |
BB height from ground | 24" | 15" |
w/b | 40" | 38" |
seat back angle | 54' | 54' |
pivot angle | 53' | 56' |
We have discussed this many times .....I don't understand why you have this issue, when I don't.
Exactly and there is nothing I can do about that , ie. the cr*p fixing method SA force me to use...Although my "point "B" is handled differently
Depends whether there is any frame to the left of B for A to foul on and what I have to use for packing B out ?What is the height of the centre standoff piece at "B" relative to the back-plates rear face?
Is it my imagination or... are your backplate tabs completely flat?By the time I have added the 2 washers shown here and the fact neither the M12 bolts I use of the ones supplied by SA are a snug fit the back plate can move over 3mm in any direction it chooses.
Despite clamping the back plate tight to the frame AND bolting the anchor plate to it's mounting tab and clamping the mounting tab to the frame , one of the mounting tabs has been welded in the wrong place [how ? ] and when the anchor is bolted tight to the mounting tab it is not possible to get the wheel on ...
Is it my imagination or... are your backplate tabs completely flat?
Ditto ?Mine have a formed "dogleg" in the steel, so that the mounting tab is stepped away from the backplate.
Of course they do. How on earth did I miss-see that. LOL
Ditto ?
Paul
The strength of yours lies in these 2 nuts :-Of course they do. How on earth did I miss-see that. LOL