Yes, understood, this may be why at least one of them is rotating freely (a good set-up procedure was followed). The other one? Not sure what it is yet, more work needed.Clamp and tighten works with single pots assuming you've set the non piston side correctly first. I'd have thought 2 or 4 pots would need to be mounted so that the caliper gap straddled the rotor as evenly as possible. If that is achieved than any drag will be because one or both pistons are not withdrawing as designed and the caliper may need a rebuild or it could be as simple as the spring between the pads is defective. The other alternative is that the caliper body is catching the rotor.
YesThe caliper body bolts can be shimmed and a feeler be inserted on the " dead side " of the caliper .
Excellent , I assume before you re-install the caliper you will be investigating the drag ?
Or are they bearings you don't have ' instock ' ?
Mind you that is exactly the same behaviour I have with one of my SA brakes and I did not get to the bottom of it :-(
Yes, there is, but I am loath to start messing with it and possibly end up with no usable trike at all.Hey aren't we missing a trick here ?
Isn't there and almost identical electric model also sat on the premises ?
So a simple wheel swap will get you on your way ?
not sure how you can judge an unused trike as good to go with this fault ?