The Marengo "Loki" Thread.

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Update 25th January 2020:
Life, family and illness have all been conspiring to stop me working on the trike.
The immediate requirement is to fit a rear "mud-stripe prevention device" (aka a rear fender/mudguard).

I have an SKS mudguard that matches the ones on the front wheels but there were no stays with it. The price requested on the various web-outlets for the fitting kit for this mudguard was astronomical.
Instead I bought a complete SKS mudguard set for a 26" wheel complete with stays and all fittings for a mere £12.95.

My idea was to either cut and shut the stays at the mid point to alter them to fit a 20" wheel OR bend 3" out of the overall length.
I put a 20" wheel in a rear triangle and set about making it all fit nicely and neatly.........And so I spent ages trying to get these "adapted" stays and the mudguard to run true.
It was Extremely frustrating, and was just NOT happening.


Then I remembered that I actually have some brand-new and unused pre-formed "old-school" 20" stays in my stockpile.

These:


Now this is a style that slips over the 10mm axle and the guard is secured with nuts and bolts.

I wonder which EXPEDIENT route I shall take? ;)
 
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I wonder which EXPEDIENT route I shall take? ;)
I have had a similar problem with my mental DIY approach - what to use for the stays when I get to that point. I have what I think is a workable DIY mudguard process. In the past, I have been able to locally source some stainless steel rod about 6m in length and 3mm or so diameter. Very cheap and seems to fit my mental mudguard quite well. If it doesn't, I will bend, cut it, etc., until it does.

I'm not sure that I will need guards now as the body I intend to fit should prevent such a problem.

See, another advantage of taking a long time to complete a project - the need for it might disappear.
 
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But you have 2 mudguard mounting holes per side and have only used one of them ?
 
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The SKS mounts are a single "V" piece of steel secured in a nylon mount at the base of the "V", which can be attached to either of the 2 tapped holes on the rear triangle.
Irrespective of which one you use, you still have the same problem in alignment.
I think I may drill the guards and mount them to the old-school stuff. I will dip those mounts in plasti-dip where they are inside the mudguards.
It will be fine.
 
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The SKS mounts are a single "V" piece of steel secured in a nylon mount at the base of the "V", which can be attached to either of the 2 tapped holes on the rear triangle.
Irrespective of which one you use, you still have the same problem in alignment.
What a poor way of doing things ? no adjustment what so ever and no matter which hole you chose the radius for each mount is different as they are not in the centre of the axle , how did we reach this sorry state of affairs ?

I think I may drill the guards and mount them to the old-school stuff.
They are no better with no length adjustment ?

I will dip those mounts in plasti-dip where they are inside the mudguards.
Are you sure they go inside ? the ones I have come across like that have been mounted outside the mudguards ?
 
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Are you sure they go inside ? the ones I have come across like that have been mounted outside the mudguards ?
They are "formed" to fit inside, honest! ;)
 
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Update 3rd February 2020:
I am still struggling to find time to work on the trike as honeydew projects keep kicking-off.
Today I slipped away from the guards and managed to find my way to my workshop and get some time on the trike before the rain began to fall again.
I also splashed out on a real bona-fide 20" SKS mudguard set because I was having a nightmare with trying to mess around and do things on the cheap.

The focus (when able to get some build time in) has been to fit a rear mudguard and make provision for the fitting of a rack as well.
Today I made a little doodad to bridge the brake pivot-boss's on the 26" rear triangle to support the 20" rear wheel's mudguard.
It's just 2 tubes and a bit of bar (over-sized so I can weld more bar on to provide anchor points for the rack to bolt on to (if I think that's the best way to go).
The SS button headed bolt in the mudguard will be firmly held by SS nuts either side of the bar to keep the mudguard firmly in position.

But it is a bit of progress at any rate, and I am keen to get out and about on this trike without fearing the weather and puddles.
DO NOT ASK why one of the mudguard stays has been cut a teeny-weeny-tiny bit short! It is a sore subject.

Small incremental steps still get you where you want to go.



 
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Update 4th Feb 2020:
While the guards were searching another hut and managing a new 3 year old "inmate" that was gifted to us for a few hours I managed to use the "Harry" tunnel to get out to my secret workshop to continue the fabrication of the bits to make the mudguard and rack mounts.
The round support struts are all made, great fun was had heating the ends of the 10mm tubing to a nice orange colour and then flattening them with a hammer. There are 2 flat-bar "dogleg" pieces still to be fashioned and drilled at the correct centre distances for the bolts. Its coming along OK. It might get finished tomorrow. Then there's little or no excuses available for not riding it. :D

Here is a picture of it with just one side of the rack-support struts in place.

I have still to sort out the "folding for transport" arrangements for the chain & chain-tubes. The BB-Shell of the rear triangle will make a convenient anchor point for the rear chain-tube tethering plate.
The idler bracket is providing that function for the front chain-tubes. I will link the 2 halves with clear flexible silicon tubing that fits over the black tubing. In theory it will work, just the practical stuff to do to make it a reality.

 
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Dan
I managed to use the "Harry" tunnel to get out to my secret workshop
That's your excuse for being found with soil in your underpants ?
The round support struts are all made, great fun was had heating the ends of the 10mm tubing to a nice orange colour and then flattening them with a hammer.
???? why not just put it in a vice and squeeze ? seems much simpler ?

What are you intending carrying on that rack ? it looks a bit high for carrying anythink heavy ?
 
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???? why not just put it in a vice and squeeze ? seems much simpler ?
Because I have never found that to work well, and it is not so much fun and it puts a lot of strain on the vice and my workbench with the 6mm steel top is ideal as a mini anvil.
What are you intending carrying on that rack ? it looks a bit high for carrying anythink heavy ?
Nothing out of the ordinary for the immediate future, just a day bag on top with essentials. I don't think it's really that high though. IF one were to attach panniers to the rack (for touring in Holland) you would need sufficient clearance from the ground or you would be dragging the bottom of the panniers on the floor. It is only a 20" wheel after all.
 
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Nothing out of the ordinary for the immediate future, just a day bag on top with essentials. I don't think it's really that high though. IF one were to attach panniers to the rack (for touring in Holland) you would need sufficient clearance from the ground or you would be dragging the bottom of the panniers on the floor. It is only a 20" wheel after all.
Yes that was were I was coming from 25kg of camping gear would be very high ?

I think on a normal installation you would expect the underside of the rack to be maybe 2" from the top of the mudguard ?

Although ICE seem to agree with you :-



Must just be me :rolleyes:

Suppose it depends on the depth of your panniers.

Are you mounting it far enough back to get a pannier across the end as well , so 3 panniers and tent and sleeping bag on top of rack ?
 
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Although ICE seem to agree with you :-
Yes, but they are all as mad as snakes.
Are you mounting it far enough back to get a pannier across the end as well , so 3 panniers and tent and sleeping bag on top of rack ?
TBH, I had not fully thought that far ahead (yet). I was looking at my tent and mat/bag and wondering if I could strap them to the side-rails of the seat frame at the back; if so then 2 panniers and a top-bag and I would be golden.
I have a mission to deliver something to the Dunes on the LF1 and a "toast" to make in the William of Orange in Delft town square. ;)
 
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I have a mission to deliver something to the Dunes on the LF1 and a "toast" to make in the William of Orange in Delft town square. ;)
I though ...
TBH, I had not fully thought that far ahead (yet).
???
 
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I though ...
???
Yes, I know it sounds a contradiction. It probably is.
In the fitting of this rack I had not really considered height etc. in a fully detailed "why am I doing it this way, is this too high/low?" sense, but I know that at some point in the near future I do want to be visiting the LF1 and raising a glass in Delft. To achieve this I will need to have a trike with carrying capacity for tent etc. etc.
NICOR is one such proven trike, but I am trying to eschew the angry pixies and their weight and be wholly self-reliant.

So.... It is not fully thought through in detail (like one of your inventory and bag-by-bag packing lists for a trip) Paul, but the essence of "requirements to carry" is there because I know I must make that trip.

I am sidling up to it (if you like) so as not to scare myself too much and therefore not putting "deep thought and laser-like focus" upon it. It has to happen, I MUST do it but softly-softly.
This probably makes no sense at all (other than to me). No e-assist wanted on this one (yet) but it needs to be tour-ready, and yes I have the NICOR e-trike as backup if I bottle it before the "off".
Lots of work to do on the trike and on "ME" yet. Sorry to drone on.
 
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How high? It depends. I have a mate that has a commercial trike based on a 20" Greenspeed. He has two pannier bags that also seem to be a common clone brand. The bags, like mine, have a plastic liner panel that, in correct fitting, hang against whatever it can find of the rear rack. This might be fine when new or empty but, after time, gravity takes its toll on that plastic. Carry a bit too much in it and it is even worse. The bottom tends to find its way closer and closer towards the rear wheel or the cassette.

I placed a horizontal strip of extruded aluminium inside my bags to prevent the plastic from curving outwards due to the combined affect of gravity and loading. In my mate's case, he had to eventually make up a couple of add-on brackets to extend the rack framework at the bottom and to the rear to prevent the pannier bag rubbing on the tyre. They also hang pretty close to the ground.

So, that which appears plenty high enough, might end up being not plenty high enough.
 
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I think there are 2 reasons why the ICE rack is so high ?
a) same rack fits a trike with a 26" wheel ? IIRC some of theirs have said item
b) it is mounted off the seat & main frame because the rear end has suspension ?

Whether rambling or not progress is being made ?
 
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TBH I have taken the support strut dimensions from the "NICOR" trike as a guide as I know Sandman (John) successfully carried fully loaded panniers on the self-same basic rack type. I am just emulating what has gone before, but in a less-elegant fashion (because I am not as skilled as John was). When I am NOT minding Grand-Children I will make the last 2 parts and then see what it looks like with a pannier on it.
 
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UPDATE 7th Feb 2020:
Well, the rack mountings are structurally finished (just needs painting).



I tried a trial-fit of a 60L Pannier on it "just to see". TBH, it isn't bad at all (IMHO) YMMV. At least it is clear of the dirt.
If I fit a short length top bag/box on top of the rack, there might be room to strap a sleeping mat/tent across the rack.
My biggest tent (packed) is about 22" long and an 8 x 8 inch square so it would mostly fit in the wind-shadow of the fat-boy up front.
A bit of inventive tube bending might even enable a rack-mounted and removable "rack-extension" to hang a 3rd Pannier from "crossways" at the back.
That might enable "Trailer-Free-Touring".....Who knows?



Here you can see the little bridging mount affixed across the brake pivots that the rack supports are fixed to.



A question for lovers of Symmetry: "Should I use the narrower Rear Mudguard that has a mud-flap that matches those on the 2 front mudguards, or stick with this wider-guard?"



Well, that's all I had time for today and the wind was a bitter, biting one and I was glad to get back indoors in the warmth.
 
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