Well that 10 tooth difference means you still have quite a bit of wiggle room ?Update 14th May 2020:
Today I altered the gearing on LOKI by lowering it considerably.
I swapped the 18T rear sprocket for a 28T sprocket.
Top end is unnecessary if the main purpose of the trike to to enjoyed loaded touring.This change has made the low-end highly effective although at the expense of the top end.
My aged knees and tired old muscles are appreciating the help though.
I think what you should be aiming for is middle ring and Nuvinci in top a comfortable 10mph [ with full load ] at an easy cadence.I think that instead of predominantly using the bottom 2 chain-rings (as I have been before this change); this gearing will mean I will be using the top 2 instead and the bottom 24T ring will be for fully-loaded pull-away's and severe inclines.
Almost but not quite. The derailleur mount is the one that came with the 26"-Wheels frame so is in the traditional and correct spot (I guess) and I have plenty of chain-wrap.Which adjustment is that you are using ? is this similar to the SA 8 problem you found ?
Plan A:-I have the "B" screw adjusted all the way to rotate the derailleur out from the rear sprocket and it just about clears it.
Yup, all of the above are definitely going to be tried in the order stated..... until a fix is found. I could really do with a long screw to be honest.Plan A:-
Ok then take the ' B' screw out and put a longer one in
remove upper jockey wheel altogether and just use bottom one - your could use a really short cage one ?
remove the derailleur altogether and fasten half of one somewhere else on the frame purely for taking the slack up
Yup, all of the above are definitely going to be tried in the order stated..... until a fix is found. I could really do with a long screw to be honest.
And the winner is..... the slow comfortable screw up against the stop. Return derailleur-sprocket/cog now not catching on N380 drive sprocket.Yup, all of the above are definitely going to be tried in the order stated..... until a fix is found. I could really do with a long screw to be honest.
Doesn't that end in a buckled wheel ?Update 29th May 2020:
The steering is so good it even allows me to ride hands free on flat and level surfaces for short periods (until it hits a branch/twig/rock).
What no updates for future travel/adventures ?Very pleased with it and so I am calling time on this thread. Thanks for watching.
Errr.... sometimes.Doesn't that end in a buckled wheel ?
Oh? You want even MORE?What no updates for future travel/adventures ?
This hinge looks similar to those in Ice trikes. Isn't it? Or does the operation of the Ice hinge depend on rotation of round tube in tube? It's not easy for me to visualize the fold and I haven't seen a folding trike in person yet.Firstly, I have split the frame into its two halves at the hinge
The frame on this trike was made by a professional engineer. The hinge was designed in Solidworks and its position and orientation were modeled in Solidworks to ensure that the "fold" ended up with the rear wheel centred in between the two front wheels and on its side. This wasThis hinge looks similar to those in Ice trikes. Isn't it? Or does the operation of the Ice hinge depend on rotation of round tube in tube? It's not easy for me to visualize the fold and I haven't seen a folding trike in person yet.
Could anyone, please, either offer some tips on building such a hinge (can it be done with angle grinder and MIG welder, perhaps by starting with another hinge?), or build one for me, or point me to someone would could?
I'd like a similar hinge in the Warrior / StreetFox hybrid that I'm building. (This is maybe a folly along the lines of too many substitutions in a new recipe.)
As I am new at welding (MIG) and the strength of a butt weld to the plates of the hinge seems incredibly critical, I was thinking of adding lugs to the hinge, so that I could braze the 16-gauge tubing into them or have someone do that for me.